Routes as trad in North Grampians

An adventure. There are at least 3 ways of getting past the cave. The way I consider best is used in the description and the alternatives are at the end.

Start: Start at the base of diagonal ramp that 'Sluice' and other routes scramble up. For this route, it is probably easier to belay from the ground than to set up a belay at the top of the ramp.

1. 35m (10) Follow the ramp then up the corner that is the continuation of the ramp until able to move R to belay in the large cave.

2. 25m (10) Move out the next hole along from the one you entered by (feels ridiculously exposed) climb the pillar on the L (facing the cliff), with poor protection at first (crux). Continue up buttress to a ledge. Rope drag and communication can be difficulties. (Variants 2a. (10) Instead of traversing R into the cave, continue up the corner and move back R above the cave. Move R-wards to rejoin the route. 2b. Move back out of the hole that the cave was entered from and climb the rib to the R (facing the cliff).)

3. 35m (-) Up a series of walls to another large cave which these days is increasingly frequented by boulderers (Ground Control Caves) so you might feel a bit over-dressed with a rope on!

4. 20m (-) Either traverse L for 10m to rappel anchors or continue to top.

A chasm. The chimney/gully between 'The Green Wall' and 'Taipan Wall'. Lots of scrambling and some roped climbing. The initial chimney often flows with water for long periods after rain.

The easiest way to the top of Taipan if you want to pre-place gear or take photos from rap. It is also a great beginners' route with (mostly) excellent rock, big features and good pro.

Start by squeezing up a chimney feature adjacent to the Peregrinator Boulder (3m L of the tricky starting crack of Mission Over Tokyo). Climb most of the first pitch of Mission Over Tokyo, eventually arriving at a DRBB. Step left across the void of the Gunigalg Gully chimney. Easily up the slabby left wall of this, into the boulder choked gully (DRBB). If you wish to reach the summit, scramble up the short right wall (poor protection).

A couple of exciting moves but the rest is ordinary.

Start about 10m down left of Atomic Tadpole at far left edge of wall and about 15m right of the major vile-looking chimney of Gunigalg Gully.

1. 20m (18) Up the short tricky crack, step right then up slab and belay before steepening.

2. 20m (18) Up until level with roofline to right. Dangle right around the arete then easily up face. Towards the top, step back right to take the final steep finish to sling anchor at top.

An attractive climb with an intimidating finish. Usually done in a single pitch.

Start on the elevated ledge, just L of the boulder, at the base of the nice face crack in the middle of the grey slab.

1. 30m (18) Up finger crack to overhang, dangle around then up slabby wall to belay below headwall.

2. 10m (20) Boldly up faint scoops on headwall (small shallow wires).

A selection of the various flowers, plus some nice poses of its own.

Start on top of the big boulder perched on the ledge between Atomic Tadpole and Tokyo Rose (but it's a better more sustained pitch if you start up UG). Trend R up the easy slab (adequate pro found on the R). Cross Tokyo Rose, then join Ukrainian Geranium for 8m over bulges to the start of the upper slab. Now traverse 3m R to FH in major grey streak, then up to break. Move R to join Sordid Orchids Direct past it's final 2 FHs, to rap anchor (28m). Full set of cams and wires, and several long draws (or double ropes).

Takes in the good pitches of Tokyo Rose and Mission over Tokyo, and avoids the rubbish.

Start as for Tokyo Rose.

1. 25m (18) As for Tokyo Rose pitch 1.

2. 20m (18) As for Mission over Tokyo pitch 2.

Obvious line, but the second pitch is ordinary. Improved by finishing up the second pitch of Mission Over Tokyo (i.e. by doing Tokyo Connection instead).

Start in the square orange corner at the right side of the grey slab, about 8m R of Atomic Tadpole, on the elevated ledge.

1. 25m (18) Climb the corner to the roof and traverse left below the roof, crossing Atomic Tadpole to belay on the arete.

2. 20m (18) Follow the diagonal crack up left through a small overhang to a vague ledge. Step right, climb the arete and exit left at the steepening. Has also been done by continuing from the 'vague ledge' up the vague leftwards diagonal (poor pro) to the arete of the chimney (as shown in the topo above).

This ground-up effort felt all the more intrepid for being established in single-digit temperatures with no fewer than three hailstorms on the way. It's the best moderate route down this end of the wall.

Start 2m R of Tokyo Rose (Tokyo Connection), and 2m L of Sordid Orchids, on the elevated ledge.

1. 25m (21) Thin orange corner then diagonally up L with feet dropping into TR for a move or two. Steeply over bulge and up the short orange flake on the R to gain slab. SHB below white bulge.

2. 15m (20) Move R over white bulge to ledge. Leftward arcing thin orange corner to the intermittent headwall crack 4m R of Atomic Tadpole's finish.

Extends the first pitch of Sordid Orchids by 12m and adds three bolts. Sustained wall climbing with crimpers and reach moves. Climbs more like a Blue Mountains wall climb rather than a Taipan steep sloper fest.

Start as for Sordid Orchids. Climb Sordid Orchids to horizontal break after last RB. Instead of traversing off right into the birdshit, head straight up wall above (FH), step left and then up again (2 FHs). After the last bolt, traverse right into Sordid Orchids pitch 2 and climb this for 2m to a loweroff. Above the anchor is the aid move on Sordid Orchids pitch 2.

A beautiful natural line but unpopular due to its rusting bolts and bizarre traversing.

Start at the first anchor of Sordid Orchids, on the guano-stained ledge. Drop down, traverse 4m right and go up flake to roof. Right below roof for 5m and over lip (crux). Traverse 5m right to finish beside Clean Sweep. Approx 5 bolts?

The dyno identifies many dinosaurs. A superb climb up the intermittent flake system.

Start 10m R of Sordid Orchids on the elevated ledge, which at this end is about 10m above ground level. Follow the thin flake past a sea of fixed rubbish to a pin. Hard moves lead straight through the dyno, then traverse R to the continuation of the flake. At the roof move R and up a shallow groove to the top.

In 2009 some new bolts appeared in the groove which goes up the steep bulge about 5m L of the finish of DDD. This is being approached via a cool girdle from Sordid/Blackadder (2 ropes, drop 1 halfway), but could also start up DDD. There were already some old carrots here... Carrigan's?

Some link-ups are hardly worth recording, but this one is notable because it avoids the cruxy moves of each route, leaving amazing sustained climbing around grade 22 with bomber pro the whole way. In fact, you'd be hard pressed to find a better 23 in the Grampians.

Follow Dance of Life to the horizontal break 10m below the top, step L 3m, and finish up the lovely well protected blunt arete of Clean Sweep. Needs double ropes to do it in a single (ultraclassic) pitch. Has also been done by going further L along the break to Dinosaurs Don't Dyno.

Fun traversing on superb aesthetic stone. Full set of cams. Has also been done by starting up the unpleasant flakes 10m L of Great Divide (see 16a on topo). You can do a 150m girdle of Taipan, via The Mint, Arabic Mint and Lawrence of Arabia (the full thing is yet to be done in a single push).

Start just R of Dinosaurs Don't Dyno, on the far right hand end of the elevated ledge. Put your belayer on the wide ledge 6m below the start, so they can see the crux.

1. 32m (21) Step down from R end of ledge to hand traverse R under large roof, cross Great Divide, and continue traversing R to Seventh Banana's first anchor.

2. 10m (17) Continue traversing R to Sirocco's first anchor. Rap off (18m).

Wonderful climbing based on the sharp, undercut arete right of Dance of Life. The crux is very hard, but very short. If you pull on the crux bolt it's an excellent 25M1. Take a full rack incl. 2 #3.5 cams, and 15-20 quickdraws.

Start directly below the impressive hanging arete which soars upwards from the R side of a large roof. This is just L of where the walk-in meets the cliff, and is where the track along the base balances along the top edge of a large smooth-faced boulder.

1. 35m (27) 10m easy grey slab, beware some friable rock, to desperate orange slab with a FH. Follow flakes to the steep groove on the R side of the arete. Crux past FH to break, then L and up L side of arete, 3½ cam & FH. At big break move R to belay in small cave.

2. 15m (24) On up face, veering slightly right-wards to top.

Steep scoopy World Party start then thin technical finish. Well protected and convenient for climbers who end up on the ledge above the left end of Taipan.

Start on top of Taipan Wall: this route is a rap in and climb out affair between The Great Divide and Daedalus. Locate double rap rings on ledge about 10m south of the Clean Sweep rap chains. Rap down wall aiming for double ring belay at right end of horizontal break. You will need to be pushing off and swinging in to reach this anchor - the wall is steep! Traverse left across horizontal (FH), then up into water funnel scoop (two FHs) to small cave. Out right side of this cave on crimpers past final FH to juggy gritty finish. #3 SLCD and a few medium wires are all that is required in the trad department.

Its a 40m Rap to the ground from the Rap-Anchors on the Belay at the start of this route.

A nice mini-pitch, although the crux is several grades tougher than the rest.

Start 15m R of Great Divide, below the flake which is a few metres L of Seventh Banana pitch 1. Easy grey rock leads to roof. Turn the lip with difficulty (FH), to gain the flake. Nice moves up flake and face, to the first belay of Seventh Banana. Rap off (20m).

This alternative second pitch to Seventh Banana is rather runout at times, but it's also an incredible sustained line. Start at the first anchor of Seventh Banana. Up Seventh Banana pitch 2 for a few moves then move L (crux past the first bolt), and blast up the somewhat sparsely bolted grey streak to the top. Between the last 2 RBs it rejoins Seventh Banana for a few metres, then heads left again. 6 RB's & DRB anchor. There's some optional cam placements but they don't reduce the runouts much. Rebolted 2017.

A good aid climb turned into a great free climb. The first pitch is worth a star or two in its own right and is justifiably very popular with Taipan virgins.

Start 25m R of The Great Divide, and 8m R of The Chick is Trouble.

1. 25m (23) Up shallow orange flake/corner to the large deep break, then traverse 5m L to pocketed roof (an alternative but inferior start is as for TCiT). Over roof (RB) on pockets, then follow flakes up and L to a ledge and DRB (20m rap).

2. 30m (27) Some great moves in prime positions, but unfortunately not very sustained. Up to smooth wall, then step R to the desperate slabbing crux (FHs) to a good rest. Up the incipient crack to the bulge and over this with difficulty. Up and L to a good slot and up to another slot and then a fingery wall leads to the top. This pitch has 4FH's and a lower-off shared with Daedalus.

Another classic up this unlikely looking section of cliff. The crux at the start of the second pitch is ridiculously hard, and can be quite demoralising. Some prominent international climbers have suggested up to 8a for this move! It is also enjoyable, and far easier, to either (a) pull on that one bolt to reduce the grade to 25M1, or (b) freeclimb around to the R past the 1st bolt of Father O then back L into Sirocco before the 2nd bolt of Father O.

Start about 20m R of The Seventh Banana, and 3m L of The Seventh Pillar.

1. 23m (21) A popular pitch in its own right, for many their first on the wall. Has a distinct move which makes grading highly subjective, enough said. The pocketed open corner doesn't reach the ground: gain it via a short pocketed slab 5m to the R (direct up the slab beneath the corner is insecure unprotected 21). Corner past FH (rebolted April 2011) and then jug L along break to belay ledge. For 2 decades the anchor was an eyesore of shitty fixed slings, then for 2 months it was some underwhelming fixed wires, now it is DRB (18m rap).

2. 32m (26) Delicately up factor 2 territory for 3m to break (small cam), then lunge up L past bolt via diabolical crux. Mantle and crimp straight up to the 2nd FH (don't go R to Father O's 2nd RB like lost Euros often do!). Step L and blast up wall above, through bulge, then veer R (again, don't clip any RBs on Father O'!). Move back L and up final wall to a new (2011) lower-off (30m+, tie a knot in the end of your rope!). 4 FHs, fixed thread, wires and cams up to #3.

Some consider this a route that isn't worth recording; others consider it to be better than either of the two original routes that it links!

It is easier than either of the original (sandbagged) lines - maybe that accounts for its popularity.

Start up Father O to its second bolt, then traverse delicately left to join Sirocco's second bolt. Finish up Sirocco.

Extraordinary moves on immaculate rock. If you're picky you might deduct a star due to the numerous rests, and the bouldery crux start being several grades harder than the final 25m. Tougher than many Taipan 26s, but easier than Sirocco so it can't be 27 ... can it?! Often repeated using only the bolts with some 6-8m runouts, but most people also use a couple of wires and cams.

Start as for Sirocco pitch 2, delicately to the horizontal break at 3m (cam). Step R then up cruxy wall (2 RBs) to ledge. Step R to RB, up the juggy scoop (wires), then veer L to stance below roof. RB on lip, then a long reach/dyno gains the delightful grey headwall (3 RBs, cam). Lower-off (30m+ to ledge, tie a knot in the end of 60m ropes, or 48m to the ground). Rebolted ~2006.

A great 25ish variant avoids the crux past the 2nd bolt by moving L below it, joining Sirocco for a few moves then rejoining Father O above the 2nd bolt.

An independent start has also been done off the ledge, its protected by tiny trad and, instead of sharing the first few metres of Sirocco p2 off the L end of the ledge, it goes up and a bit left from the middle of the ledge to the 1st bolt of Father O.

A good option if you think Father O eases off too much after its crux. Start as for Father O, until just past it's 3rd bolt. Now head up the R side of the scoop, through bulge past 2 FHs and 2 RBs (thin crux direct past 2nd RB - deduct a grade (and maybe some self respect) if you deviate L around this bolt into Father O) to break. Trend R from break to top. Take cams & wires. If that's not enough harder climbing for you then throw in the worthwhile direct start, from the middle of the belay ledge and heading up L (good tiny trad) to Father O's first bolt.

HB had previously dabbled in this vicinity while searching for a second pitch for Mirage, but after he declared the second pitch groove "impossible" nobody bothered with it for years. Luckily no one told Stuart, who sauntered in and snared one of Taipan's very best. Unfortunately the first pitch is ridiculously cruxy, so most people rap in to do pitch 2 only. Start as for Sirocco.

1. 35m (31) Follow Mirage for 18m to gain the hanging slab atop the steep white corner. Now doddle up L (ha ha) past bolts to the start of the groove, and more easily to hanging belay at chain (30m rap).

2. 25m (28) Amazing climbing up the line of shallow water scoops in incredible red stone, 7FHs to chain (25m to 1st belay, 55m to ground).

Variety! The famous HB dyno route as immortalized by Simon Carter's photos in the early 1990s. Take a full rack up to #2.5Fr, including Aliens, RPs, and sling runners (and/or double ropes) to minimise drag. Start as for Sirocco.

1. 35m (27) A great series of features. Follow pitch 1 of Sirocco to the horizontal. Swing R along this to tricky white corner and gain slab (FH). Trend R and up technical slab and finally the infamous big dyno between buckets (battered FH), to lower-off (25m, but a 60m rope barely reaches if it's still through all the gear so tie a knot in the end).

2. 35m 32. The daunting beautiful red wall above to a rap anchor at the top. Yet another contender for the best pitch on the wall. Renamed Orange Desire by Quentin; more like 33 according to Alex Megos.

This is what Malcolm's original thinking was for the 2nd pitch of Mirage. Apparently he thinks it might go so best stay off. Start atop the first pitch of Mirage.

A great section of traversing, the addition of which enables a 150m girdle of Taipan, via The Mint, Arabic Mint and Lawrence of Arabia (the full thing is yet to be done in a single push). Start at the end of The Mint (the first anchor of Sirocco). Can also be worked from the ground by starting up the first 15m of Mirage. Reverse the Sirocco pitch 1 traverse, then take the Mirage traverse to the white corner. Swing R to obvious slot on arete, up a little then back down to a break which leads into Lawrence of Arabia. Cams to #5 & wires. Descent requires creativity if not continuing into LoA. Be aware that the slot on the arete captures your rope, which doesn't seem to create drag or rope cutting potential for the leader, but does create rope cutting potential if the second falls off the crux (as happened on the first ascent: the sheath was completely severed but thankfully the core survived). The leader should consider obstructing the slot and/or padding the problematic sharp edge, and/or the second should try to flick the rope out of the slot before leaving the corner.

The main attraction is a seductive groove on the second pitch reminiscent of Cardigan St, but with lesser quality rock and a sullied history. For those who "only" climb 25, the first pitch is very worthwhile in its own right and deserves a lot more traffic than it gets - especially since the old bolts were replaced (2009). Start as for The Seventh Pillar.

1. 40m (25) Follow the Seventh Pillar LHV for 25m to the bolts at the top of the flake, and then rightwards for a few metres up the runout face. Where SP LHV traverses R to the break, instead continue up past 2 more bolts (the runout to the 1st bolt is fairly secure for a 25 climber), via excellent climbing, to a hanging belay just below break (32m rap, can lower off with a 60m rope - but only just!).

2. -m (-) 25m, 29 (open project). This pitch moves R to gain the distinctive line of water scoops about 8m L of the prominent flake on Seventh Pillar pitch 2. This pitch was "enhanced" with a glue edge by Poultney, but he never sent it (and the glue edge has now gone). On his "belayer's lap" Dave Jones sent the pitch at 29, with a token sit down low. And there it remains - unfinished. If slightly dubious rock and the now old bolts don't bother you ... help yourself. The 29 version moves R at the top of the groove before gaining the major break, however the direct to the break should go around 31/2, and the line then continues above the bushes to the top of the wall. Do NOT rely on the rap anchor just below the bushy break - it uses only one bolt, of a type which has often failed. About 8 bolts?

Goes left from 7th Pillar LHV to finish at the top of Mirage P1.

Climb 7th Pillar LHV almost to end of rightwards traverse and go up scoopy line past 2 bolts to bolted anchor.

A heady megaclassic ... but also a brilliant consumer-friendly 22 if you lower off the bolts at the top of the flake (25m). Start as for The Seventh Pillar. Follow R-tending line of weakness for 18m to the major roof-capped horizontal break. Swing L into the rounded flake crack and up it. Bolts at the top protect the crux, which is followed by 8m rightwards runout to the horizontal (gear). Traverse 10m further right along this to rap rings (22m rap, can just barely lower off with a 60m rope). Extend all gear before the bolts, otherwise the flake is a real rope eater and rope drag will be hideous.

Climb The Seventh Pillar LHV to the top of the flake, clip the bolts, gaze rightwards at the rising, unprotected traverse, and say 'take'. Lower off with mixed feelings of guilt and relief.

Note that if you aren't cleaning your gear off this route by the sun comes around (~2pm), you will likely get gear stuck (no matter how experienced you are at placing/removing gear). Oftentimes no amount of hammering or cursing will remove the gear... only for it to lift out the following morning without the need for any coercion whatsoever. So if you get gear stuck, either shrug and consider that it was worth it to get on this route, or get back up it early the following day.

Fantastic sustained moves and position. Start at the original 2nd belay of Seventh Pillar (i.e. at the guano-stained stance halfway up the 2nd pitch as now described). Extend high pro, then step down from the belay to traverse 3m R to incipient flakes. Up past 2 FHs and straight up grey streak (med wire) to gain major break. Move L to belay as for the original.

A superbly positioned bouldery little pitch. Makes a logical 3rd pitch for The Great Affair now that that has been freed. Start at the second belay of The Seventh Pillar. Blast up the surprisingly overhung headwall, trending a little R, past 2RBs and a medium cam. Lower off anchor. Rebolted 2018.

2 long traversing pitches which give fantastic perspectives on the daunting territory above. Take lots of cams of all sizes. Start as for The Seventh Pillar.

1. 35m (21) Follow The Seventh Pillar to the base of the bolt ladder. Ignore the bolts and instead keep traversing right along the break to belay wherever.

2. 20m (21) Keep swinging R along the break. Originally it went until you could step onto the ground, but post-closures you should now finish sooner by reversing the first 4m of Serpentine (save a #1 cam for this bit, to protect your second).

Start from the ground as for The Great Affair. Trend diagonally L past 2 new bolts to ledge. Continue L and up 7th pillar LHV flake, then finish as for Snake in the Grass to Mirage ledge. 3 cruxes separated by rests.

Demanding bouldery cruxes and intimidatingly huge dynos. According to Dave Jones, 'Malcolm only ever bolted this because he'd just done Mirage and thought he could dyno the full height of the cliff'. Start about 15m R of The Seventh Pillar, 2-3m R of Slytherin.

1. 28m (33) 3FHs (enormous dyno at 3rd, Rainbow Rocket -style), to gain THE break about 6-8m R of the Seventh Pillar bolt ladder. Continue up the desperate looking face past 3 FHs which trend R into a thin L-facing flake. Follow this to a chain below the main roof (30m rap).

2. 20m (32/3) This is the left-most bolted line through the major roof which extends all the way from The Seventh Pillar to Serpentine, halfway up Taipan. Another all points off dyno plus amazing water scoop/arete climbing, ending at the 3rd pitch traverse break of The Seventh Pillar. Nalle thought pitch 1 was a bit harder than this pitch, but maybe not by much!

3. 14m (29) Quetzalcoatl last pitch.

Start at a hanging belay in Lawrence of Arabia, about 15m R of the Seventh Pillar bolt ladder. Use fixed rope on Feather Boa to access.

1. 40m (-) Some face moves past 2RB to gain a thin R-facing flake (The Great Affair takes the L side of the same flake/rib). Follow this up to the main roof. Move R then out the roof and up to the 'slab'. Move left past new RB's to shallow groove on The Great Affair. Belay in horizontal. 7 bolts.

2. 14m (28) Seventh Pillar Variant. 2 bolts.

Start at a hanging belay in Lawrence of Arabia, about 15m R of the Seventh Pillar bolt ladder. Use fixed rope on Feather Boa to access.

1. 40m (-) Some very hard face moves past 2RB to gain a thin R-facing flake (The Great Affair takes the L side of the same flake/rib). Follow this up to the main roof. Move R then out the roof and up the wall above to finish roughly in the middle of the 3rd pitch of The Seventh Pillar. Takes the line of rusting FH after the roof. Possibly 33/34.

2. 14m (29) The headwall pitch past 3RB's, starting roughly in the middle of the third pitch of the Seventh Pillar. This pitch has been sent so knock yourself out.

The magical long sustained main pitch uninterrupted by rests is something special, even by Taipan's lofty standards. After some high profile spankings it seems to be settling in as being about a grade harder (not a grade easier!) than Serpentine, so Dave's original grade of 28 has been bumped up to a solid 29...and may not stop there!

Start in Lawrence of Arabia, about 6-8m R of Quetzalcoatl and 5-6m L of Scud Buster. It's best to fix a rope 8m to the ground so you can belay from the ground and jug/batman to start.

1. 47m (29) The gear (mostly FHs but some med. cams down low and a small wire up high) is a bit spaced but right where you need it. 'Steep' slab climbing (crux) up to the main roof. Bust out the roof, trend R a bit then up the sustained wall to the 3rd belay of The Seventh Pillar (45m rap).

2. 14m (28) Cute. Straight up the steep headwall above the belay.

Starts as for Feather Boa until a few metres below the main roof, then go right through the roof and up the headwall for a few more metres to an anchor in the middle of nowhere where the holds run out.

Extension to Kundalini. Adds another 7m of hard climbing on thin crimps and pockets and a final jump to the ledge.

Some fantastic slabbing in the prime central part of Taipan. Hard for 24. Start at the first belay of Lawrence of Arabia, which is most conveniently accessed by jugging 8m up the FB or Serpentine fixed ropes, if they're there. From the R end of the roof-like section of the horizontal, head up on pockets (thread, #3-4 cam). Continue slabbing past 4 hangerless bolts (rebolted 2011) to ledge below main roof. Traverse 5m R (small-med cams) to the first belay of Serpentine. Rap off (20m).

Makes Rage an independent line to the top, providing another awesome pitch up the most majestic part of Taipan. Start as for Serpentine pitch 2. Follow Rage for 5 bolts then head left to wide runnel, follow right side of runnel to just below roof, span left across runnel, then up to roof. Follow right side of next runnel to top. Another variant has been bolted (see 41b in topo) which moves left after only 1 or 2 bolts of Rage and up the faint arete to join into Angst.

A 15m variant to the first part of the second pitch of Serpentine. Significantly harder than Serpentine. Pull through initial roof on Serpentine p2 then L via very thin moves to red jug on beautiful sheer hanging red face. Trend back R past 3rd bolt and up subtle arete. When the arete finishes trend L via more hard moves past 5th bolt, to rejoin Serpentine at the horizontal break.

1. [24] 32m

   Crank off cairn to the break, then traverse left for 6-8m. Up over bulges past FHs, to a slopey ledge (#3 cam). (Don't go diagonally up left from 2nd FH, there's no gear). Traverse left to short arête and up this (FH) to belay (25m rap).

2. [29] 40m

   This is why they rave about Taipan. Roof, trend right across scoop, hug up turret to horizontal break. Move left then weave up wall to the top. 8 FHs. Trad anchor, or lower 30m off the last bolt.

This famous line was the first route on the wall which cried out for the mythical fourth star. Now re-bolted by HB with 75mm ball head expansions (the original laser-cut fixed hangers remain), HB also put in an anchor 1.5m to the right (you still have to top out). PLEASE DON'T PISS ON THE BELAY LEDGE (bring a pee bottle for long belay sessions). Aiming left or outwards is NOT Ok, you WILL be pissing on other pitches and yes they do get climbed. Start on the cairn on the raised ledge, directly below the obvious huge arete of 'Naja'.

This is the bolted line directly below Serpentine's first belay. Some Serpentine aspirants stick-clip their way up this to avoid doing Serpentine's first pitch! 1 FH below the Lawrence of Arabia break, then a few more FHs up the faint arete above before joining Serpentine's first pitch for the last 10m to the belay (25m rap).

After the long years of Steve and others being spat off before Dave cleaned it up, it's apt that this genus includes the Spitting Cobra! The strongest line on all Taipan, this is the left-facing arete bounding the right side of the massive scooped out area right of Serpentine. It is more closely bolted than most other Taipan routes, although they're getting a bit the worse for wear. The whole thing can be worked from the ground using a 70m rope (but only just!). Start as for Serpentine.

1. 25m (27) Gain the arete and follow it, mostly sub-25 but with an insecure dyno past the 2nd bolt. Consider a cam before the (rusty) 1st bolt, not least to avoid knackering yourself if you come off the tricky next moves.

2. 15m (30) Continue up the arete with much better climbing. Unfortunately it gets increasingly guano-stained up high, so take a brush, but you can avoid the worst/highest section of guano by moving left before gaining the anchor (37m rap).

A strenuous single pitch, mostly superb 22-23ish but with a distinct hard section. It takes the main arete-like thing bounding the L side of this large red scooped out section of cliff. Start on the elevated ledge, 3m L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up.

1. 28m (26) Easily up ramp/corner to break under roof. Scuttle R to strenuous roof flake (FH) and onto slab. A small arete (hangerless bolt) leads to the much steeper main arete with 3 FHs. A bomber titanium (!) piton plus a few small-med cams protect the roofy juggy finish to the rap station (30m to the ground).

2. 20m (-) Garry Phillips bolted an extension in 2006 (still a closed project). It's a V9-ish traverse R from the anchors to the black streak, then straight up the black streak to a fairly low anchor (45m to the ground). However this version is mostly redundant since the completion of Southern Delight and Trouser Snake.

Start on the elevated ledge, 4m R of the boulder and 2m L of a small tree. The wall between IF and WP, then finish up IF past it's last bolt. If you're not as long and strong as Rhys, its still a good 26M1 by pulling past the jump. The extension out the scoop/roof to the lip has 2 very old bolts in it and is an open project.

The stunning final pitch is one of the very best on the wall. Before you get there, there's a hard crux on the 2nd pitch. The hanging 2nd belay is best avoided by linking pitches 2 and 3, while pitch 2 is easily worked from the ground if you have a recalcitrant belayer. Start on the elevated ledge, 7m R of the top of the boulder and just R of the small tree, at a short fat flake on the slab.

1. 20m (21) A worthwhile pitch in its own right, although all the mantles are somewhat above gear. Up the slabby flake then 4m R along breaks. 3 slithery mantles lead to rap anchor on ledge (18m). Cams, med. wires.

2. 13m (27) Follow fused flake up L with increasing difficulty, then a draining fingery traverse back R to 3 bolt anchor (8m to 1st belay, 25m to base).

3. 20m (24) Brilliant. Tough moves out slopey 3m roof flake, past the only remaining original bolt - consider a small cam just below to back it up. Now blast up the very steep and very exposed water groove past 4 bolts and a spicy final runout. A wire can reportedly be finagled in on the top runout, but with all that air below your remaining energy is probably better spent in braving the final moves without it! DRB rap anchor (48m to ground).

Nothing flash by Taipan standards, but certainly recommended for those at the grade wanting a taste of the fabled Taipan. Follow World Party for 8m to horizontals. Traverse R along horizontals until 4m R of Constrictor, to finish up short flake onto slab and mantle to the 1st belay ledge of Anaconda and rap chains (15m).

Start up Constrictor's slab past the bolt, then (instead of traversing the break R as per the original) continue straight up following the chalked slopers of World Party's first pitch to ledge and lower-off.

Squeezed in! A Taipan slab route with a crimpy crux down low. Starts 3m right of World Party, just left of small bush growing out of horizontal crack. Boulder up tenuously onto orange slab and good pocket (FH). Step left slightly and climb slopers directly to join World Party at large horizontal. Traverse right across this for four metres to short vertical flake. Arrange pro and balance up flake onto slab (FH). Finish up slopers (FH) and over final committing bulge to ledge. Rap chain (18m).

Suffocatingly powerful. Usually led as one giant pitch. Start at large expanding left-facing flake 8m right of World Party.

1. 18m (21) Not a great pitch. Expanding flake (FH), then traverse left across break (FH) and up slab to chain belay (15m rap). A few medium-large cams are useful.

2. 30m (28) Straight up (2 FHs) to stance on the left, then rightwards out bulge with sustained endurance climbing up to big roof. Over 2 roofs into water runnel above (2 FHs), then head off left (but not into World Party) and up to anchors. 60m rope is enough to lower off to 1st belay, if belayer is on the 1st belay.

A rising traverse line across a major feature linking Anaconda into Mr Joshua. Start at rap chain at end of first pitch of Anaconda. Climb Anaconda's 2nd pitch for 3 bolts then scuttle right (2 UBs) into white cave. A good alternative is to head R from Anaconda's 2nd FH and heelhook up the diagonal bulge (pre-extend the 1st UB). From the cave, go-go-gadget span between scoops to reach juggy flake. Swing across this (large wires/cams, or just run it out) then up final scoopy headwall (UB) to join Mr Joshua pitch 1 at it's last bolt. Backclean, or get some idiot to second then rap off (38m).

Totally classic ... but it's hard to give the third star when it's only an 8m variant of the first pitch of Mr Joshua. Unfortunately the bolts are getting rather rusty after only 10 years. Start as for Mr Joshua. At the post-crux horizontal break of Mr Joshua's first pitch, (after the 6th bolt) step left and climb left side of scoop past two FHs to rejoin Mr J at it's last bolt. Lower off (28m to tree then swing back in to ledge, or 38m to ground).

The brilliant first pitch is one of the most popular at Taipan and was a very impressive effort by the young bumblies Jared and Simon. Often cited as the best 25 in Australia. Pitch 2 is far less popular, but still excellent. Start from the R-hand end of the ledge, 4m R of Anaconda's flake. Set a belay, or belay from the ground.

1. 28m (25) Pockets and mantles to ledge. Move R along wide break then slopes lead to a spike hold. Head R to arete then up to break. Blast up the R side of the groove above, finally trending L to a compact cave with DRB lower-off (28m to tree then swing back in to ledge (60m rope), or 38m to ground (70m rope)). A #2.5Fr is needed to eliminate nasty fall potential below the crux bolt, & most climbers also place 1 or 2 large wires & a #3.5Fr.

2. 15m (26) Bring a bolt plate for the belay setup; there's a carrot which lets you get comfy in the cave and spend less time stuck on the uncomfortable hanging belay. A techy big dyno to start, then some great technical moves up the vague arete. 4 bolts, trad, & rap chain (15m to 1st belay, 48m to ground).

Right hand variant to Mr J.

This linkup provides an easier way to do Tourniquet p2 as a single monster pitch from the ground. Climb Mr J p1 to it's 2nd last bolt, slopy traverse R to middle of black streak (cams), spicy up black streak into the spacious cave. Join Tourniquet pitch 2 up the arete.

The easiest way to do Venom p2. Climb Mr J until 5m above it's crux, then take the jug traverse R to join Venom p2 and follow this to the top in one mega pitch from the ground.

1. 20m (30) An 8m direct variant to Venom pitch 1. As for Venom for 12m until established on the L side of the groove. Where Venom traverses R, continue direct up the L side of the groove past 2 RBs to rejoin Venom at the lower-off.

2. 20m (27) As for Venom pitch 2 until past the bulge and into the cave. Then take the L arete of the cave/scoop to lower off (80m rope recommended). Rebolted 2017. This pitch is more easily approached via Mr Que.

The popular first pitch is a beautiful scoop of rock with a tenuous traverse and remarkably sustained climbing for the length of the scoop. The business is a little short to rank up there with Taipan's very best, but it's still awesome. Pitch 2 is rarely done but is an absolute blast. Start at the DRB atop Kaa p1, accessed as described above. (There is an old direct start with a couple of bolts (described on the Spurt Wall page), but nobody bothers with it).

1. 20m (28) This pitch is almost a sport route as it contains a few fixed wires to supplement the bolts, but most people also put in a few medium cams. It's a very popular pitch due to its squishy grade, and is many climbers' first 28. Step right past RB and up reachy wall past wires to big break. Swing over rooflet (wire) then traverse R across scoop. Pump up the subtle R arete of the scoop (2 RBs + wire) then a tricky conclusion up L to break. Clip-and-go lower-off (16m to ledge, 30m to ground).

2. 20m (26) Traverse 5m L from the lower off then up the red scoop (bolt, med cams) into cave above (optional 2no of carrot bolt plates on spacious ledge: pitch 1 originally went to here). Out right side of cave to top and lower off (80m rope recommended). Rebolted 2017. This pitch is most easily approached via Mr V.

2 bolt boulder start to RS. Classic!!

Ho hum, just another fantastic Taipan route. You'll be shaking on the slab section! Continually bouldery climbing split by good rest stances. Start as for Venom on the ledge 15m off the ground. Traverse right as for Kaa pitch 2 (small-med cams), past the black streak with 2 FHs (don't clip them, that's Rattler), almost to Kaa's second bolt (don't clip this either!). Straight up grey streak above past 6 FHs and a fixed wire up high. Route finishes in large cave at rap rings (35m to the ground). You need a 60m rope to (laboriously) tramline back to the belay, or a 70m to lower off to the ground.

Wanders around like crazy in order to follow the 'weaknesses', but still worthwhile. Nearly all the bolts are in poor condition - please contribute to rebolting. You also need a light trad rack. Start at ground level at the prominent left-leading flake that is located towards the right end of the Spurt Wall bouldering traverse, directly below Venom.

1. 25m (23) Average. Climb the flake to gain a ledge, then move off its left end past a FH (rebolted 2011) then up face and right along ledge to DRB (placed ~2005, 14m rap).

2. 25m (24) Move up and right past FH to a horizontal break. Traverse right (med. cam) and up past FH to another horizontal (cams). Right again beneath FH in steep territory (incredibly awkward to clip from below, incredibly bold to clip from above), then make a hand-traverse back left just above FH, and onto ledge with DFH (25m rap possible).

3. 15m (24) Step R, up to roof, then L to FH. Dangle out R through overhangs past 2nd FH, ignore 3rd FH, and trend R to a delicate last move onto the terrace and DFH (35m rap). A harder alternative (25) is to head straight up past the 3rd FH (see 62a on topo).

4. 15m (23) Pull up to diagonal ramp and follow it up L to spike/jug on arete. Up steep face, moving L to faint groove (wire), to rap anchor back over the clifftop. The 50m rap straight to the deck is not recommended due to rope drag. Instead, lower back to the 3rd belay, then rap 35m off Rattlesnake Shake's DRB.

The old 15mm long (!!) bolt was replaced 2011.

Start: Start at the R end of the 'Spurt Wall' bouldering traverse, at the obvious juggy chalked L leading flake.

Amazingly little is known about this. Doesn't get much traffic as it requires a bit of trad. Allegedly pretty thin and nasty.

Start: Start just R of Kaa.

They must've been reading Dune to convince themselves to worm through this ocean of sand.

Start: Start at the top of 'Spurting Mildly'.

1. 15m (24) Head up L to the honeycombroof and pull through it into cave.

2. 15m (23) Pull out above cave into a line of chossy scoops, to another sandy cave.

3. 10m (23) Out above the L end of the chossy cave to gain a finger crack corner which is reputedly quite good. But that might only be relative to all the choss you have to climb to get here.

Some think it might be 30..

Left facing ornage corner directly below anchor of Chicane. Bold at the start.

The easiest line towards the L end with shallow cracks, pinches, laybacks etc. There are a couple of possibilities but there is one that seems to best fit the bill.

A huge block sits on the terrace R of the overhanging wall. Short, thin crack next to the block up grey wall. Finish up discontinuous cracks.

takes the very R hand side of this wall right of the huge blocks.

Despite the good climbing, the dangerous batman start off a jammed knot is likely to discourage people. It's not clear whether the first ascent used the batman technique or abseiled in to a hanging belay 5m above the deck! Maybe the tatty slings should go and people should place a hook from a long stick and batman up to it.

Start: Start about 20m L of 'Slap and Tickle'.

24 (!!)

Start: L of 'Natural Wastage'

Good, hard climb up a gorgeous wall.

Start: Start a few m L of 'The Rubicon'.

A stream in wet weather.

Start: The major vertical corner from the terrace.

They shall not perch.

Start: Start 5m R of 'The Rubicon'.

Burning bright.

Start beneath the overhanging corner 20m R of 'The Rubicon'. A burly start leads into the corner which takes you to the roof, which has three manky pitons (and bomber gear). From here there is a tough move at the lip and 2 FHs before the lower off.

An old style route. (There is another climb called 'Time Warp' near Hall's Gap).

Start: Start about 10m R of Tyger, Tyger.

Hardly.

Start: The second line R of Tyger, Tyger.

The first 20m or so of this route is excellent. It basically follows the blunt arete 5m L of 'Centaur'. Strenuous climbing but on huge holds. (There is another climb called 'Blunt Instrument' at Black Ian's).

Start: Start just L of the arete.

An enjoyable lower grade climb up a great line, which should become more popular now that it has a rap chain (since May '07).

Start: Back down at ground level, just before the track passes under the overhangs there is a major corner.

1. 21m (13) The crack just L of the corner to a ledge. Up the chimney to another ledge below a large roof.

2. 22m (13) Step across the gap and move around the roof and up the corner. The route originally topped out, but a chain has been added allowing a 30m abseil to a ledge 2m off the ground at the base of the climb. People using this abseil should wear helmets because of the fragile nature of the rock.

Magnificent. HB almost freed it (30M1 - 1 point) but it took another 15 years for Ben to finish it off, by the skin of his teeth. So far he's suggested "maybe 30, 31" for the grade - we'll go with the latter!

Start: 10m R of 'Pegasus'.

1. 35m (31) Hard moves take you R through the roof 10m R of 'Pegasus' to crux into bottomless corner. On up corner to belay.

2. 27m (-) Easy ground.

This steep and powerful roof looks like fantastic climbing, but unfortunately the bolts have not aged well and it is mostly only 4-5m off the ground requiring care to avoid groundfalls.

Start: Start 25m R of 'Gilgamesh' at the R end of the low rooves.

This is a sport route after you do the first 5m of Zeus on trad. Start as for Artemis, but from the 1st bolt go 5m further L to narrow ledge. Great sustained moves up orange flakes and L over roof, onto the long pumpy headwall, finishing at a lower-off. NOTE: a 60m rope is probably NOT enough to lower off (a 70m should reach, but check first!).

This is a sport route after you do the first 5m of Zeus on trad. Up Zeus for 5m then traverse 5m L. Builds up nicely to a fun roof at the top.

Start as for Zeus, but after 4m take the shallow orange corner 2m L. Straight through overhangs, then move R at final roof to finish up Zeus. Good climbing, with spaced but adequate pro.