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Routes as trad in The Last Bastion

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Showing all 32 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
12 The Happy Chappy

2m L of The Mellow Fellow. Up the corner to a ledge then straight through bulge to top.

FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1989

Trad 12m
12 The Mellow Fellow

The corner 1m left of Heartbeat. Up the corner, over 2 bulges to finish up a short crack on the right.

FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1989

Trad 12m
12 Heartbeat

Initialled with a fairly messy H. Up thin crack, veer right to slot, then up.

FA: Col Jenkins, 1988

Trad 11m
11 The Glum Chum

The flake 2m right of Heartbeat. Finish up that climb.

FA: Mark Savage, 1989

Trad 12m
13 Changing Boots

2m right of the Glum Chum. Initialled. Pull over the bulge, then continue to the top.

FA: Martin Houston & Col Jenkins, 1988

Trad 11m
11 Wish You Were Here

4m right of Changing Boots. Up over bulge, continue to top over slab.

FA: Mark Savage, 1989

Trad 11m
12 About Bloody Time

1m right of Wish You Were Here. Up the crack, left to avoid the overhanging corner and up to a ledge.

FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1989

Trad 11m
14 Ronnie Fawcett's School Of Climbing

2m right of About Bloody Time. Up to bulge, step right then back left to gain groove [balancy]. Continue up the corner and the twin cracks above.

FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1989

Trad 12m
11 Momentary Lapse Of Reason

3m right of Ronnie etc. Up with a poorly protected start.

FA: Mark Savage, 1988

Trad 11m
5 Signs Of Life

2m R of Momentary etc. Up to the scoop, then up.

FA: Mark Savage, 1988

Trad 11m
20 Brain Damage

3m right of Signs of Life is a deep gully/chimney feature. Start up the left side of this, step up onto the block, climb up to small roof, handhold on right corner. Reach up to jugs then layback up the steep shallow corner, continue on up.

FA: Mark Savage & Jarrod Smith, 1988

Trad 12m
6 Pigs On The Wing

6m right of Brain Damage. Up the right side of the overhang then straight up.

FA: Jarrod Smith & John Savage, 1988

Trad 11m
14 Laughing Lisa

3m right of Pigs on the Wing. Up the thin crack. Good and quite awkward getting through the bulge.

FA: Michael Daykin & Lisa Fry, 1988

Trad 11m
16 Viewfinder

3m right of Laughing Lisa. Take right hand corner up to roof. Traverse left to centre of roof, then straight up. I assume that this climb is based on the wide crack through the overhang right of LL, pulling through the bulge on its left.

FA: Chris Hurstfield, 1988

Trad 11m
12 Porte Saint-Antoine

Takes the obvious buttress left of Bastille. Start up the crack on the left hand side. Pull out right on the horizontal break to below the crack in the middle of the face. Up the crack then up and right on unexpected juggy pockets.

FA: Philip Armstrong. Kathy Matic & Peter Cody, 12 Sep 2018

Trad 14m
8 Bastille

About 25m right of Viewfinder is a prominent chimney line. Up.

FA: Bill Andrews, 1986

Trad 13m
11 In The Flesh

3m right of Bastille, marked with a small painted square. Up to and up the steep wide juggy crack.

FA: Jarrod Smith & Michael Pirzas, 1988

Trad 11m
15 Run Like Hell

Comfortably Numb was described as being 1.5m right of this climb. However, there is no feature matching this description anywhere near CN. Climb to the horizontal crack, up for 4m then finish up the corner on the left.

FA: Peter Savage & Mark Savage, 1988

Trad 10m
11 Comfortably Numb

Very faintly initialled thin crack. Climb about 3/4 of the way up then veer left to top. This face is steep, has suspect small holds and little obvious gear. It looks much harder than grade 11.

FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1988

Trad 11m
21 Lullaby

Exciting climbing up a steep arête. 10m left of The Cradle on a separate block is an obvious arête. Start near the ground, then up, reaching right at the crux, and up past bolt runner to finish.

FA: Andrew Stevens & Peter Stebbins, 1991

Trad 12m
10 ME109E

From Run Like Hell walk around the foot of the cliff until you are below a short steep square cut wall. This is The Cradle face. It is bounded on the left by a juggy left leaning chimney line. Up this finishing up the left wall.

FA: Michael Green, Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 2007

Trad 13m
16 Focke-Wulfe

Left leaning crack at left end of Cradle wall, just right of ME109

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody & Josh Tucker, 2007

Trad 13m
16 The Cradle

Just right of Focke-Wulfe. Up past horizontal break to the cradle. Up and slightly left to top.

FA: Andrew Stevens & Peter Stebbins, 1991

Trad 20m
16 Hawker Hurricane

Traverse right from the start of The Cradle to the next line, up this.

FA: Peter Cody, Josh Tucker & Philip Armstrong, 2007

Trad 13m
20 Cradle Snatcher

Just left of the right arête of the cradle face. A bulging seam.

FA: Peter Stebbins & Andrew Stevens, 1991

Trad 18m
17 Sorry Donna

Start as for Cradle Snatcher. Take the steep right leading crack almost to the arête. Step back left and and up seams near the arête.

FA: Mark Schroeder & Chris Drake, 1996

Trad 15m
14 Pooh Bear's Picnic

5m left of Borderline. Head up to and climb the hollow orange flakes past a small overhang.

FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1990

Trad 10m
12 Hailey

Up the face 3m left of Borderline.

FA: Chris Watson & Tony Wilson

Trad 10m
9 Borderline

The obvious corner above the ledge at the right hand end of Cradle Wall. Some people may wish to rope up to access this ledge.

FA: Bill Andrews, 1984

Trad 12m
18 Flatulence Will Get You Nowhere

Start 2m right of Borderline. Up the steep face crossing the horizontal break. Spaced protection.

FA: Anthony Wregg, Steven Barnett & Bruce McMurdo, 1991

Trad 12m
12 Clan Of The Pooh Bear

At the right edge of the Flatulence face is a shallow left leaning crack/groove leading to jugs on the left.

FA: Mark Savage, Peter Savage & Michael Pirza, 1990

Trad 10m
17 It's Not You, It's Me

Face 2m right of Clan of the Pooh Bear. Go up the middle, finishing direct.

FA: Mark Schroeder & Chris Drake, 1996

Trad 13m

Showing all 32 routes.

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