Showing all 32 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Guernica Block | |||||
22 | ★ Wedge Tail
Nice shady crack climbing. A very obvious trad corner that just needed a bolt to get started. Start: Starts up on high ledge (scramble up easy stuff 10m left of Guernica). FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 13m, 1 | |||
24 R | Decay
Sandy wide crack connects into hard sport route. Start: Starts 2m right of 'Slippety Slope'. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 18m, 4 | |||
16 R | Guernica
Sandy and runout. A real adventure! Start: Takes the south eastern arete of the block with a very exciting finish. Protection is pretty crap most of the way up. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Philip Armstrong, 1978 | 30m | |||
21 | ★ Weebling
You either love it or hate it. Start: Climbs the blank face right of 'Guernica' with several BR's. FFA: Unknown, 2000 | 25m | |||
24 | Weebling Direct Finish
Totally desperate. Start: Instead of bailing off to the left, continue up the very thin face past a few more BR's. Unrepeated? FA: Bruce Dowrick, 1987 | 10m | |||
25 R | ★★ That Fearful Vortex
A simply stunning arete with a real hard grit feel. Recently retrobolted, which removed the once vital RP above the 2nd bolt. Start: This is the square cut prow 10m right of 'Guernica'. FA: Dave Vass, 1986 | 25m, 4 | |||
18 | Where the Woozle Wasn't
A good line which unfortunately doesn't live up to expectations due to soft rock. Start: Takes the obvious broken crack that splits the north face of the 'Guernica Block' about 5m right of 'That Fearful Vortex'. Triples of hand and fist crack sized cams are useful. Rap off manky sling below mega choss. FA: Philip Armstrong & Kevin Lindorff, 1978 | 35m | |||
22 | ★★ Genetic Sandbag
Curving s-crack which is hidden behind a tree. Not really climbable wihout tying the tree back out of the way! Start: Follow the crack 5m right of Where The Woozle Wasn't to the break, then bop up and left to the belay in the cave on WTWW. Rap off manky sling. FA: Brian Alder, Dave Vass & Bruce Dowick, 1986 | 15m | |||
Clicke Wall | |||||
22 | ★ Clinophobia
Start 11m left of Dys Funk Shin. Easily up to first RB then on to second RB heading straight up, following line of least resistance, finishing directly above first RB at DRB rap anchor on ledge. 5 RBs FFA: Ramon Francis, Dale Rankin & Joseph O'Connell, 2001 | 30m, 5 | |||
23 | ★ Star Jumps Aren’t Dancing
Start 8m left of Dys Funk Shin. 5 RBs & trad gear to finish at DRB rap anchor just below ledge. Possibly a bit harder for shorties. Rap-anchor on ledge. FA: Ramon Francis, Brendon Abernethy & Joseph O’Connell, 2001 | 30m, 5 | |||
21 | ★ Dys Funk Shin
Start 5m left of Jurassic Park at RB. Follow faint grey water streak past second RB. Passing 3 FHs Streak turns black near top. Rap-anchor on ledge FA: Ramon Francis & Joseph O'Connell, 2001 | 28m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Dinotopia
A left hand variant to 'Jurassic Park'. Follow that climbs dog-leg crack until it forks. Follow the left hand crack system which curves left then right, then finish up the headwall via a black streak directly up the start of the climb. A big wire in a hole between two hand holds protects the final headwall. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1993 | 35m | |||
17 | ★ Jurassic Park
Excellent fun climbing despite its daunting appearance. Start: Up the dog leg crack left of 'A Long Way From Verona'. Continue straight up over a bulge then traverse up right 4m until a vertical weakness-come-crack leads to the top. FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 1993 | 35m | |||
19 | ★★ A Long Way From Verona
Wonderful wall climbing with a fair bit of air below your feet on several sections. Very Blue Mountains. Start: Start 5m left of 'Giblets' as a short flake/corner. FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1993 | 25m | |||
26 | Slave Driver Saliva
A run-out excursion that will probably be more popular as a top-roping problem. Start: Start a couple of metres right of 'A Long Way From Verona'. FA: Gordon Poultney, Simon Mentz & Donna Bridge, 1996 | 25m | |||
20 | ★★ Giblets
Finger/hand crack 7m left of Close To The Bone. When the crack finishes, traverse right quite a way (toward Close To The Bone) before tackling a short wall above to a ledge then eventually join Close To The Bone to the top. FA: Kim Carrigan & Kieran Loughran, 1982 | 30m | |||
22 | ★★ Giblets to Chaos
Links Giblets into Order Through Chaos. Linkup! | 15m, 3 | |||
26 | ★ Order Through Chaos
Put up by Corrine Gwynther FA: Corrine Saunders (nee Gynther), 2000 | 25m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Close to the Bone
Excellent splitter finger-crack. Start: Starts 24m left of 'Clicke Crack'. FA: Kim Carrigan & Kieran Loughran, 1982 | 25m | |||
23 | ★ Short Fuse
A good short, sustained route. Start: Starts about 4 or 5 metres right of Close To The Bone. FA: Kenji Iiyama & Kisho Takamori, 1988 | 12m | |||
23 R | Ran
Not quite as sustained, but has a very thin crux. A little scary. Start: Start at the flake about 3m right of 'Short Fuse'. Up the flake to a BR, move across left into a continuation flake. A reachy move brings the ledge to hand. Rap off. FA: Scott Camps, Simon Kemp, Kisho Takamori & Kenji Iiyama, 1988 | 15m | |||
25 | ★ Kurosawa
Fine climbing on small holds. Deceptively steep. Start: Start as for RAN, it was going to have an independent start but a bit snapped off (hence the extraneous bolt). FA: Scott Camps, Simon Kemp & Alister Mark, 1988 | 18m | |||
27 | ★★★ One Bed to the Left
Outstanding arete with some very technical moves. Rebolted 2011 (thank goodness). Start: 10m L of 'Clicke Crack' is the scarily exposed traverse which leads left to the main section 'Clicke Wall'. Start just L of the scary bit, under the L side of the obvious short arete. FA: Dave Jones. Bolted & attempted by Scott Camps., 1997 | 18m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ Clicke Crack
"A most impressive crack which has been climbed by a very dubious mean. It will undoubtably be clibmed free in the future...". Ancient Gledhillian text. This is the climb that lends its name to this line of cliff. It takes the wide jagged crack which can be so easily seen from Flat Rock. Start: Starts on the far right edge of the Clicke Cliff. FFA: Kim Carrigan & Andrew Thompson FA: Roger Caffin (aid), 1986 | 21m | |||
7 | Piracy Direct Finish
Makes a pleasant little climb. From below the overhang move right and continue to the top. FA: Dick Semenow (?????), 1972 | 25m | |||
8 | Attila Variant Start
Climbs the slab to the base of the scrubby chimney 5m right of 'Attila'. Traverse left on the rotten juggy wall into the corner and finish as for pitch one of 'Attila'. FA: Robyn Farrell, 1974 | 25m | |||
3 | The Descent
| 20m | |||
20 | Pink Elephants Next Door
| 22m | |||
19 | Genuine Wage Overhang
| 30m | |||
11 | Stepping Stones
Steeper and meatier than appearances suggest. Start at the pine tree near the base of 'Attila'. Up onto boulder, step onto wall then diagonally right up ramp for 3-4m to prominent steep juggy wall. Straight up wall veering gradually right to finish centrally. FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood, 1997 | 30m | |||
8 | Care Factor: Kelvin
Start from base of Piracy's corner (i.e. a few metres right of the start to 'Clicke Crack'. By the way, why did this most obvious of obvious routes need to be chisel-initialled in the first place?!) Head up diagonally right to blunt arete. Follow this to top. Just a climb - care factor? Rap off boulders, or take the standard death route descent down the wall beside 'Piracy'. FA: Ben Clayton & Nic Chapman, 1997 | 20m | |||
24 | Open Project
The line on 'Clicke Wall' where it meets the chimney with the 'Guernica' block. Probably about 24 and needs a glue-in bolt or two at the crux. | 20m |
Showing all 32 routes.