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Routes as trad in Clicke Wall

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Showing all 32 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Guernica Block
22 Wedge Tail

Nice shady crack climbing. A very obvious trad corner that just needed a bolt to get started.

Start: Starts up on high ledge (scramble up easy stuff 10m left of Guernica).

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Mixed trad 13m, 1
24 R Decay

Sandy wide crack connects into hard sport route.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Slippety Slope'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Mixed trad 18m, 4
16 R Guernica

Sandy and runout. A real adventure!

Start: Takes the south eastern arete of the block with a very exciting finish. Protection is pretty crap most of the way up.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Philip Armstrong, 1978

Trad 30m
21 Weebling

You either love it or hate it.

Start: Climbs the blank face right of 'Guernica' with several BR's.

FFA: Unknown, 2000

Trad 25m
24 Weebling Direct Finish

Totally desperate.

Start: Instead of bailing off to the left, continue up the very thin face past a few more BR's. Unrepeated?

FA: Bruce Dowrick, 1987

Trad 10m
25 R That Fearful Vortex

A simply stunning arete with a real hard grit feel. Recently retrobolted, which removed the once vital RP above the 2nd bolt.

Start: This is the square cut prow 10m right of 'Guernica'.

FA: Dave Vass, 1986

Mixed trad 25m, 4
18 Where the Woozle Wasn't

A good line which unfortunately doesn't live up to expectations due to soft rock.

Start: Takes the obvious broken crack that splits the north face of the 'Guernica Block' about 5m right of 'That Fearful Vortex'. Triples of hand and fist crack sized cams are useful. Rap off manky sling below mega choss.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Kevin Lindorff, 1978

Trad 35m
22 Genetic Sandbag

Curving s-crack which is hidden behind a tree. Not really climbable wihout tying the tree back out of the way!

Start: Follow the crack 5m right of Where The Woozle Wasn't to the break, then bop up and left to the belay in the cave on WTWW. Rap off manky sling.

FA: Brian Alder, Dave Vass & Bruce Dowick, 1986

Trad 15m
Clicke Wall
22 Clinophobia

Start 11m left of Dys Funk Shin. Easily up to first RB then on to second RB heading straight up, following line of least resistance, finishing directly above first RB at DRB rap anchor on ledge. 5 RBs

FFA: Ramon Francis, Dale Rankin & Joseph O'Connell, 2001

Mixed trad 30m, 5
23 Star Jumps Aren’t Dancing

Start 8m left of Dys Funk Shin. 5 RBs & trad gear to finish at DRB rap anchor just below ledge. Possibly a bit harder for shorties. Rap-anchor on ledge.

FA: Ramon Francis, Brendon Abernethy & Joseph O’Connell, 2001

Mixed trad 30m, 5
21 Dys Funk Shin

Start 5m left of Jurassic Park at RB. Follow faint grey water streak past second RB. Passing 3 FHs Streak turns black near top. Rap-anchor on ledge

FA: Ramon Francis & Joseph O'Connell, 2001

Mixed trad 28m, 5
18 Dinotopia

A left hand variant to 'Jurassic Park'. Follow that climbs dog-leg crack until it forks. Follow the left hand crack system which curves left then right, then finish up the headwall via a black streak directly up the start of the climb. A big wire in a hole between two hand holds protects the final headwall.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1993

Trad 35m
17 Jurassic Park

Excellent fun climbing despite its daunting appearance.

Start: Up the dog leg crack left of 'A Long Way From Verona'. Continue straight up over a bulge then traverse up right 4m until a vertical weakness-come-crack leads to the top.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 1993

Trad 35m
19 A Long Way From Verona

Wonderful wall climbing with a fair bit of air below your feet on several sections. Very Blue Mountains.

Start: Start 5m left of 'Giblets' as a short flake/corner.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1993

Trad 25m
26 Slave Driver Saliva

A run-out excursion that will probably be more popular as a top-roping problem.

Start: Start a couple of metres right of 'A Long Way From Verona'.

FA: Gordon Poultney, Simon Mentz & Donna Bridge, 1996

Trad 25m
20 Giblets

Finger/hand crack 7m left of Close To The Bone. When the crack finishes, traverse right quite a way (toward Close To The Bone) before tackling a short wall above to a ledge then eventually join Close To The Bone to the top.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kieran Loughran, 1982

Trad 30m
22 Giblets to Chaos

Links Giblets into Order Through Chaos. Linkup!

Mixed trad 15m, 3
26 Order Through Chaos

Put up by Corrine Gwynther

FA: Corrine Saunders (nee Gynther), 2000

Mixed trad 25m, 5
23 Close to the Bone

Excellent splitter finger-crack.

Start: Starts 24m left of 'Clicke Crack'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kieran Loughran, 1982

Trad 25m
23 Short Fuse

A good short, sustained route.

Start: Starts about 4 or 5 metres right of Close To The Bone.

FA: Kenji Iiyama & Kisho Takamori, 1988

Trad 12m
23 R Ran

Not quite as sustained, but has a very thin crux. A little scary.

Start: Start at the flake about 3m right of 'Short Fuse'. Up the flake to a BR, move across left into a continuation flake. A reachy move brings the ledge to hand. Rap off.

FA: Scott Camps, Simon Kemp, Kisho Takamori & Kenji Iiyama, 1988

Trad 15m
25 Kurosawa

Fine climbing on small holds. Deceptively steep.

Start: Start as for RAN, it was going to have an independent start but a bit snapped off (hence the extraneous bolt).

FA: Scott Camps, Simon Kemp & Alister Mark, 1988

Trad 18m
27 One Bed to the Left

Outstanding arete with some very technical moves. Rebolted 2011 (thank goodness).

Start: 10m L of 'Clicke Crack' is the scarily exposed traverse which leads left to the main section 'Clicke Wall'. Start just L of the scary bit, under the L side of the obvious short arete.

FA: Dave Jones. Bolted & attempted by Scott Camps., 1997

Mixed trad 18m, 4
19 Clicke Crack

"A most impressive crack which has been climbed by a very dubious mean. It will undoubtably be clibmed free in the future...". Ancient Gledhillian text. This is the climb that lends its name to this line of cliff. It takes the wide jagged crack which can be so easily seen from Flat Rock.

Start: Starts on the far right edge of the Clicke Cliff.

FFA: Kim Carrigan & Andrew Thompson

FA: Roger Caffin (aid), 1986

Trad 21m
7 Piracy Direct Finish

Makes a pleasant little climb. From below the overhang move right and continue to the top.

FA: Dick Semenow (?????), 1972

Trad 25m
8 Attila Variant Start

Climbs the slab to the base of the scrubby chimney 5m right of 'Attila'. Traverse left on the rotten juggy wall into the corner and finish as for pitch one of 'Attila'.

FA: Robyn Farrell, 1974

Trad 25m
3 The Descent
Trad 20m
20 Pink Elephants Next Door
Trad 22m
19 Genuine Wage Overhang
Trad 30m
11 Stepping Stones

Steeper and meatier than appearances suggest. Start at the pine tree near the base of 'Attila'. Up onto boulder, step onto wall then diagonally right up ramp for 3-4m to prominent steep juggy wall. Straight up wall veering gradually right to finish centrally.

FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood, 1997

Trad 30m
8 Care Factor: Kelvin

Start from base of Piracy's corner (i.e. a few metres right of the start to 'Clicke Crack'. By the way, why did this most obvious of obvious routes need to be chisel-initialled in the first place?!) Head up diagonally right to blunt arete. Follow this to top. Just a climb - care factor? Rap off boulders, or take the standard death route descent down the wall beside 'Piracy'.

FA: Ben Clayton & Nic Chapman, 1997

Trad 20m
24 Open Project

The line on 'Clicke Wall' where it meets the chimney with the 'Guernica' block. Probably about 24 and needs a glue-in bolt or two at the crux.

Trad 20m

Showing all 32 routes.

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