Routes as trad in Mt Ruapehu

Climbs through the center of the triangular buttress, starting from the large ledge.

P1: (17) Climb 5m left of Trenchtown on the black rock the juts out of the wall to a DBB. (3 bolts)

P2: (18) Continue up the wall, trending left below the overhang and finishing around the arete.

P1: (16) Climb directly left of Trenchtown to a DBB.

P2: (23) Continue upwards, left through the bulge at mid height to the top of the wall.

Start as for Trenchtown, then depart the stairway and head directly up the wall.

Follows the trench staircase that trends upwards through the wall. DBB of Chocolate Coated Mammaries can be used as an anchor for two pitches.

Start up Ruffer Version or Trenchtown and finish up Authorised Rockers

Start left of Chocolate Coated Mammaries in an alcove right of Trenchtown. Head up through the overhang, initially trending left and then right as you tackle the headwall.

Climb left of The Scribbler and follow the two bolts up the wall.

Follows the arete to the left of the obvious cave.

Starts left of the rounded buttress. Once a ledge at 1/3 height has been gained establish on the buttress and continue up to the top. Great climbing but fiddly gear.

Initially heads into an alcove on the right side of the wall, then out through the overhang following a thin line right of the buttress to the top of the wall. A hard lead, but possible one of the best for its grade.

Climbs between the two obvious recesses in the wall, going past two more smaller recesses to the top.

Climbs under Under Heavy Manners to the cave, the exits left finishing where Crazy Baldheads finishes.

Same start as for Under Heavy Manners, exiting the cave on the right side following the vague crack system upwards, which then cuts left to Under Heavy Manners anchor.

P1: (20) Steep and juggy climbing through the obvious overhang followed by much easier climbing on the slab above. DBB. (7 bolts)

P2: (19) Continues upwards on trad gear for 5 meters before another steep section at the first bolt, followed by easier climbing to the top. DBB. (4 bolts)

P1: (17) Sneak through the step in the overhangs trending left (passed a thread) and once on the face head up and rightish following the line of weakness. Belay in the middle of the shield like wall.

P2: (17) Heads up through the obvious line of weakness finishing with jams as a great finale.

Can be combined into one pitch with rope drag management.

Starts in the scoop under the big overhang, going up and following the vague line of weakness to the top of the wall.

Trad belay off the big horn or go to the bolted anchors 5m left or right of the top.

P1: (21) Route goes in and out of the "cyclops" eye in the roof, then up and right to a natural belay.

P2: (18) Continue up the wall following a line of weakness to DBB.

Goes up the overhanging chimney right of Arturism. Great gear and great exposure, try not to lose your Trango cam.

Start in the groove below the overhangs, then move leftwards under the upper overhangs to an alcove. From here prepare yourself for facing the overhang and headwall head on. Double ropes and cams (0.3-4) recommended.

Starts as for The Full Monty, but exits right around a crack and bulge to an easier top out.

Head up the wet slab to the back of the roof, then force yourself into the wide crack and struggle to the top. Big Cams are useful!

Climbs right of Serial Pillar past the bulge and up the steep face. DBB as for Serial Pillar

Climb straight up into the small cave to the right of Goldie (crux), then directly up the wall. Small cams and wires handy. Double bolt belay.

Climb an easy ramp leftwards then up a flake, traverse right along a ledge to reach the obvious chimney. Sling the chockstone and go for it. Exit left at the top.

Climbs up the white-streaked wall to a steep face before easier terrain.

A great way to practice trad. walk along the top of meads wall, starting from the left, there are a few anchors you can clip in the first half. A few technical down climbs, but mostly easy as. The crux is around the large block near the top of 50 metre roof crack, climb down the crack on the right of the boulder, make sure your second is protected, then belay in the obvious crack a few metres along. Bring lots of size 2 cams.

A sick route, start on the left of the slab, go up and slightly right, then exit through the awesome fist sized roof crack. DBB under a weird boulder.

start right of the main buttress, then traverse left and get established on the buttress (crux) then follow the finger crack up to the DBB with hangers.

From the belay at the top of 'Hard knock life' climb slightly right then steeply up on good gear (small - med cams and wires) to the large ledge. From the right end of the ledge climb the corner and through steep juggy terrain and on past 1 bolt to the belay ledge. Can also be climbed as a single long pitch together with 'Hard knock life'.

Easy climbing leads to a distinct crux as you approach the double bolt anchor. Takes small to medium cams and lots of good wire placements.

Step right from the belay on to the steepening face. Airy climbing takes you to a good rest. Clip the bolt and head into the slightly overhanging crack. One more bolt protects the final moves to the anchor.

Climb the corner. Protection is there but tricky to place.

Variety of fun moves, crux is about half way up in the middle of the crack below the slightly protruding feature. Take a couple of #2 nuts and double cams from 0.3 - up to around 0.75 C4's along with a 600mm extension. Heaps of good gear to be found.

The crack system to the left of the larger of the two semi detached pillars.

The wide off width crack and face on the other side of the second demi detached pillar.

Climb cracks in the wall. Route information unclear as to which cracks. Most likely the cracks beside the rocky gulley.

The gulley in the center of the wall. Scramble up and be careful of loose rock.

Starts with a small boulder problem off the deck. Once at the small ledge with the bush, continue upwards to the #2/#3 cam-sized crack. Belay on the small ledge.

Little trad route to practice placing gear. Shared double bolt anchor on the top of the platform.

Past 1 bolt up into the bowl, then bridge your way up. Either finish right on the anchor of Eureka or head straight up to the bollard.

The corner right of Betelgeuse. Shared anchor.

The slabs, has a walk off ledge 3/4 of the way up.

Climb the roof close to the ground, mantle up into the finger crack top out and walk off. Good protection .3 bd cam and smaller

Directly above the waterfall.

Climb the crack on the most left hand side, finish up right to the big boulder to belay.

Stellar route for new trad leaders. Climb the second crack from the left of the crag up outstanding great rock with good cracks for protection on your left. Finish up to right of the big boulder.

Awkward first moves lead to an easy ledge and finish by continuing right at the top. Walk off from there.

Climb up to the overhanging hand crack and get ready step up. A short line with a cool move.

Climb the wall and cracks 4m to the right hand side of the access route.

Start climbing the staunch crack, then the easier cracks to the right leading up onto the pinnacle. Don't exit right up the easy ground.

This line starts 2m right of “Ledge In Time”. Climbing on gear after the first bolt.

Start on the left side of the cave and traverse to the right. Pull through the roof and mantle up to the ledge. Head up the face on good flakes. Bring tiny cams for the bottom, No.1 BD cam and offset wires for the face.

Start in the blank seam with small gear and follow the thin crack up towards the small bush and triangular shaped hole. Ground up first free ascent.

Climb up the corners to a prominent orange headwall with a left leaning crack. Finish up the arete on the left of the headwall.

5m right of Osteoarthritis. Then climb from the right side of the pedestal at the bottom. Follow corners and ledges past two bushes (and some smaller plants) to the top.

2m right of Keep Off The Grass. Climb up the right of the bottom pedestal and up right past a bolt (crux) and finish up the headwall on the right. Pro small wires and cams and 2x1 or 1 and 2 camalot for top moves.

3m right of Fingerprints. A bouldery crimpy start, this climb comes with 2 cruxes: Ist crux climbing to place first runner, this is a 5 rock placement so have it ready on quick draw! Climb up and past to get established in crack sytem. continue up to do a wide high step then pull around arete corner a airy move crux number two. Then continue on up a recessed crack system to top. Belay of a set back Boulder down by roped access route.

Climb the obvious crack system heading up just past the prow of the buttress. Finish up right of top block.

Climb left of the roof onto ledges then up the steep headwall following a thin crack. This line was climbed onsight with no pre cleaning.

The obvious offwidth to the right of “Don't Tell Mother”. Climb up and finish left beside the big chockstone. No offwidth grovelling required.

Pitch 1 (25m) grade 13. Up the left side arête of the broad orange buttress. 4 bolts, DRB (double ring bolt) anchor. Pitch 2 (26m) grade 14. Straight up and climb up the white buttress feature, then finish on slab. 2 bolts and trad gear, DRB anchor.

This route although done as one long 60m pitch it can be done as a 2 pitchs belay just before the final steep section end of mid way easy scramble section. Belay half way is a trad anchor.

Pitch 1 (24m) grade 11. Up the right side slabby arête of the broad orange buttress. 3 bolts, DRB anchor. Pitch 2 (26m) grade 12. Veer right on broken slab, climb up into gully then into left facing corner. Step right onto the blocky arête then up. 2 bolts and trad gear, DRB anchor.

From the start of the second pitch of Croissant veer right to a large square rock revealing a crack in the left side. Shares Croissant's anchors. Good range of black diamond cams "0.5" up to "5"

Follow groove. Label at base.

As per route name. Approx 2m right of 'Fast'.

Groove approx 6m right of 'Fast'

Groove to left of 'Slow'

Groove just left of Arete. Label at base.

Climbed from the ground up. Starts a few metres right of "My Fathers Friends" Climbing up towards a prominent nose, take care what you pull on, it maybe alive!!!. Pass the nose on the left side, Layback to gain a good bridge position to place gear (midsize cam and hex) before the over lap. Follow the deep corner, stepping right though another overlap to keep going up straight. Climb out to the top on easy ground, again watch what you pull on or place gear behind. I thought it was about grade 17, but added a grade for the scary factor, You are climbing on stacked blocks, Should I really be here!!

Same start as "Scary or something" I backed off the direct start because of loose blocks. Climb to the right side of the prominent nose, stand on it and go straight up though the over lap, on good gear and holds. Follow a widening crack (#4 cam is handy or was it a #3?). Some tricky semiring foot work leads to easier ground.

Shared two-ring anchor.

About 20m right of Fire and Ice.

Left of the caddys corner, bouldery start with 2 bolts.

Climbs the LH facing corner crack till an overhang with easy ground above to top out.