Ascents of Südwandverschneidung

dont go for it. shitty route & really dangerous

Once in a lifetime...

Long and intense climb ... pretty solid for the grade, to be franck ! From the farm, the approach to the bottom of the route is not easy and can be dangerous if you engage in the wrong place. Except 2 or 3 pitches, everything is lose rock and soil and grass what gives a bitter taste to many sections and makes it hard to protect in many occasions. Be ready for long runnouts where everything in your hands or under your feet can collapse at anytime ! The view from the top is worth the pain. To go down, once you've crossed the samll ridge to the large ring at the right hand side chimney, you can chose the downclimb option but a safer and even quicker one seems to do 3 abseils. Abseil down for 50 m in the chimney and after (mind the lose rocks when pulling the rope). down climb for 15m and use the big rock spoiler on your right to abseil again in the steep path until you find another large abseil ring on the wall on your right. use the ring to abseil for another 50 m to avoid a stupid accident in the slippery grass patches.