Showing all 33 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Fri 23rd Jun 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Trackside Boulders Amazing Boulder | ||||||
V2 | ★ The V2 Sit - with Loads of people | 4m | ★ Good | |||
V3 | ★★ Paranoiac Critical Town - with Loads of people | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely rock
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Sun 4th Jun 2017 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Tribute Wall Tribute Wall Upper | ||||||
21 | ★★ Back Stabbath - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 17m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really good grade 17 climbing with a single hard move above your gear
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18 | ★ MC Hammer Drill - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Punchy finish - I think this is given 17 in the guide which felt stiff
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16 | ★★ The Suburbs - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice holds (hold manufacturers take note ...)
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19 | ★ Lost in Translation - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Committing finish. Tribute Upper is quite a lot better than Tribute Lower ...
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Sun 4th Jun 2017 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Tribute Wall Tribute Wall Lower | ||||||
17 | ★ Inxcessive - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Tricky (but not actually difficult) start - a doddle after that
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16 | ★ Hot Play - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Fun start, then a doddle. Over all too soon.
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15 | ★ Maiden China - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Watch your head standing up on the shelf at the start !
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22 | ★ Midnight Soiled - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice and sustained
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19 | ★★ In Halen - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Thanks to the FA's for providing these warm up routes !
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18 | ★ Lines N' Noses - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Stay left at the top and just run it out (Don't traverse into the top of IH which is harder)
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Sat 3rd Jun 2017 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Van Diemen's Land | ||||||
22 | ★★ Happiness in Magazines (pitch 2) - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
(Fun) grade 17 up to a fun but harder finish. It's a shame this wasn't the original finish of Crime Wave as together it's a superior route to either. Done twice to get my gear back. Do it as one pitch.
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19 18 | ★ The Dope Man - with Chris Fox | 5m, 2 | Average | |||
Extremely height dependent. Nowhere near 18 (much harder) if you are 5'7" like one of our party
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Mon 17th Apr 2017 - Mt Rosea | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
16 | ★★ Debutante Direct Finish - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard | 36m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Done by accident because Chris can't follow directions.
Pretty cool but disagree with the description. It's actually really well protected (gear close to and backing up the pin, and then big cams before and during the rooflet). It's also nowhere near 18 (we did The Last Rites just before it which was grades harder). Original grade of 16 (no "R") was probably about right. |
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15 |
★★★ Debutante
- with
Bodin Pollard, Chris Fox
1
12
lead by
me
2
15
lead by
me
3
10
lead by
Chris
4
14
lead by
Chris
5
10
lead by
Chris
| 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Geez, this thing covers some impressive terrain at the grade. Not recommended as your first 14 or 15 though. Stratospherically more difficult than an equivalent route at Arapiles (like Lamplighter).
As with the The Last Rites (done immediately prior), pitch lengths are rubbish. Top of the pinnacle is 48m not 60m, and pitches 3, 4 & 5 combined are also 50m, not 62m. With a 70m rope, some long slings, judicious gear placements (don't put anything near the chains at the end of p1) and the benefit of hindsight, I would combine pitches 1, 2 & 3, then pitches 4 & 5. We put pitch 3 in with 4 & 5 instead because I selfishly wanted to hang out on the top of the pinnacle. We also finished up Debutante Direct Finish which is also pretty cool, although definitely much harder than the rest. Party of 3, 4 hours bottom to top and back down again. |
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19 |
★★★ The Last Rites
- with
Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard
1
17
lead by
me
2
18
lead by
me
3
19
lead by
me
4
16
lead by
me
| 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really offers an awful lot of variety. The two closed, fused corners (on pitches 2 & 3) test the brain, and the overhung corner crack on perfect rock on pitch 4 is as good as it gets. Was smiling to myself as hold after perfect hold appeared before me ... it just kept going !
Pitch lengths both here and Sublime Climbs are rubbish though. I combined pitches 1 & 2, which was about 40m total, and 3 & 4, which was about 58m - so I am guessing they are more like 22m, 18m, 18m, 40m. You could probably combine pitches 1, 2 & 3 with a 60m rope (bit of stretch) and easily with a 70m rope but you might run out of gear (like I did). Party of three, 4.5 hours bottom to top and back again. |
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Fri 30th Sep 2016 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | ||||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - with Chris Fox, Stefan D'Agostino | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really liked this. Genuine onsight if you count all the times I slid back down to the ground on the first move as not falling ... two hard moves low, then nothing surprising to the top, although the last bit above your gear (a couple of small cams and/or small wires in the last horizontal break) make it exciting.
For reference, I did 3 routes this trip (this (23), Krankendangle (24) and Eye of the Tiger (29)), and the start of this is harder than anything on either of the other two routes. It doesn't make it bad though - better at the start than the last move ! |
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Thu 29th Sep 2016 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Krankandangle - with Mikey Musch, Bo Pollard, Chris Fox, Stefan D'Agostino | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Blew the flash on the one hard move after the 3rd bolt. Second shot.
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Sun 1st May 2016 - South-Eastern Grampians | ||||||
North-West Serra Range Dreamtime Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Dreaming of Reconciliation - with Bodin Pollard | 39m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Literally one hard move from the 2nd to 3rd bolt - and it isn't actually that hard. This feels about 2-3 grades easier than the Birthday Barrista, so not sure why they are given the same grade (here at least), but still fun !
Did this in the rain which made things a bit exciting. Stay low on the traverse near the roof at the top to avoid some very dodgy rock. Bo cleaned up a few hundred kilograms of loose rock near the top when he followed me up it so it continues to get cleaner and cleaner. |
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23 | ★★ Anthony Pattison "The Birthday Barrista" Closed Project (Anthony Pattison) - with Bodin Pollard | 23m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat on the first bolt so not strictly a legitimate ascent, but otherwise onsight. This is a really good route as well - not quite as good as Double Shot Espresso to its right, but nonetheless a great excursion.
All about pump management up high, just don't go too far left because the grey rock around the corner is very loose and life-threateningly dangerous for inattentive belayers / spectators. Thank-you to the developers of this area for a fantastic day. 23 is the right grade for this area |
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17 | ★★ The Perfect Extraction - with Bodin Pollard | 40m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty soft for the grade ... felt more like 16 or 17 but enjoyable climbing nonetheless
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Sat 30th Apr 2016 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Spurt Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Spurting Mildly - with Bodin Pollard | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easy when you commit to the movement ! Hard if you don't (like I did on my first try).
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Sat 30th Apr 2016 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
20 21 | ★★ World Party Pitch 1 - with Bodin Pollard | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unnerving mantles, yet easy climbing. Alzheimer's onsight.
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Fri 29th Apr 2016 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Kindergarten The Kindergarten (bouldering) | ||||||
V1 | ★ Fairy Head | 3m | Don't Bother | |||
OCD on my part. Had to tick all the problems here that I could given the 3 hour drive and the rain ...
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V2 | ★ Stairway to Heaven - with Dave Jones, Bodin Pollard | 3m | Average | |||
Difficulty varies significantly depending on how much you are prepared to stem on the left wall. Avoiding the crack and left wall makes it depressingly difficult.
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V3 | ★★ Sesame Superhighway - with Dave Jones | 2m | ★ Good | |||
If you can find a way to get to the crimp with your right hand, everything just works out
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V4 | ★★ A horse is a horse - with Bodin Pollard, Dave Jones | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool problem. Took more goes than I wanted - an exercise in core strength
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Thu 7th Nov 1996 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Sandinista Cliffs Sandinista Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Sandinista - with Dave Jones | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
One of th best routes and one of my better onsights ... 26 years ago now though !?!?!
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Tue 1st Nov 1994 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Buandik Area The Gallery | ||||||
25 | ★ Hueco Dreaming | 9m | Average | |||
Easy once you know how, probably 24
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Tue 1st Mar 1994 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Buandik Area The Gallery | ||||||
23 | ★★ Chain of Fools | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Fun, guessing on the date
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24 | ★★ Two Tribes | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Guessing on the date
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Thu 3rd Jun 2117 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Van Diemen's Land | ||||||
21 | ★ Crime Wave - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard | 30m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Guidebook says 20 but 21 feels about right. Linked with HIM Pitch 2 first up, then came back and did it again to get my gear back but I refuse to log 2 ascents here.
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Showing all 33 ascents.