Ascents in Leinleitertal by Daniel

Adventurous, somewhat exhausting, but really nice!

Exposed start, then some cool layback moves to the mossy top.

I would have sworn this was easier and much less dusty the last time I did it. Gave up in the crux...

Did the sequence wrong, and it's really all about the sequence... successfully warmed up, though.

It took me quite a while to figure out a good beta for me, both for the crux at the second bolt as well as for the finish.

Second try, made every mistake there is to make, still got about two thirds up, then fell, completely exhausted. For what it's worth, this is an 8+/9- that might actually be harder than 8+ for once.

For my future self (spoilers start here): Tape left middle finger, right middle and ring finger for the sharp holds. First crux: Go straight up to the two double-pockets, twist left for a reachy move into the bad pocket (index but mostly middle finger worked best). Put right foot a bit higher (hard to see pocket), then place left foot (no hook) on the little ledge. Use mono to get up, then left hand into the hold on the flake (it sucks, deal with it), then maybe right hand into the next bad pocket (not sure anymore). Then, this is vital, right foot into the higher one of the good pockets. Now barely reach the top of the flake. Sketchy clip.

For the finish: First of all, rest on ledgy holds below. Don't miss the good pockets in the "pillar" on the right side of the crack. Use the first one with the right hand instead of reaching far up and right to the tempting pockets. Then use the second pocket as an undercling to get into the slit on the right. From the slit, first get the left hand in the topmost part of the crack (little finger gets stuck a bit), put the left foot on the somewhat hidden crimp in the crack, then the good hold up left is within reach. It looks too far away, but it isn't. Then just one-arm-pull yourself up, or I don't know, do what you still can at this point.

I wasn't even aware that I already did this in 2018. This time, I climbed it all on my own, placing nuts and friends like a big boy. So much fun, and the top is surprisingly comfortable to sit on and belay. Upgrading this to Classic

The start was soaking wet, so I did it with the first bolt pre-clipped. The route itself is a bit odd but I actually liked it. I forwent the grassy runout and finished at the last bolt.

Awesome! Quite enduring, I was ready to drop off in several places This would surely pass as 8/8+ at other crags...

Dusty, brittle hell of a route. Would be really good otherwise, but it's hard to recommend it like that. Thankfully, there were already some draws/extensions in the first two bolts, with the first one clipped. That softens the hardest parts a bit. For what its worth, some of the jams were really fun!

The crack is really strenuous, couldn't bring up the core strength needed for the layback moves.

Climbed the crux by jamming half my body into the crack.

Tried it with fist jams, managed to do the clip, but then it got too painful. I guess I was doing it wrong. Then I found a much easier solution involving just a crimp and a jug. Didn't really want to repeat it though because of the sketchy, crumbling slab at the end.

Funny route. No weird crack business, kind of straightforward but also with unusual moves.

What an icy trip! Christoph Rauch first cleared the snow, then the rest of us seconded after him, which turned out to be a wise choice. Traversing to the anchor is quite sketchy, even without slippery frozen footholds. The pitch to the top is nice though, with a tricky finish. Following the old customs, I almost hit my head on the cross right after having heaved myself up onto the plateau.

Hard for the grade!

Not your regular Franconian 4. Highly recommended.

Looks much more like some tricky crack climbing than it actually is. The run-out is a bit scary (yet easy), with most blocks being a bit loose.

The crux is at the first bolt. Gotta trust your feet!

I had to rest and figure things out at literally every single bolt (except the 1st). I can do all the moves, but it's still quite hard for me overall. Having the quickdraws already in certainly helps here.

Too wet