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Ascents in Nordland by Francesco Mancino

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Showing all 19 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Tue 25th Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Apa
6- ~6 Apa - with Ola Trad 15m Very Good
Good first jams on the top of boulder overlooking the beach. Flowy and hard, really glad to send it 7 years after I fist tried it. On send run i used two #4 and one #3.

 
Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg
6- Skiløperen - with Ola Trad 40m Classic
Great combination of hand jams and jugs, whith just a little overhang to not make it too easy. Middle crack was a bit wet, but could be climbed anyways. Bring a lot of cams!

 
Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Festvåg Lille Festvåg
6- Gaukerisset - with Ola
1 3+ 20 Second
2 6- 45 Trad
Trad 65m Very Good
Atletic and committing crux, then super long and pretty chill crack, with crazy exposure.

 
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Main Cliff
4+ Lett bris - with Ola Trad Average
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret
6+ Svenske Diedret — 2 attempts - with Ola Trad 20m Very Good
My first "real" trad redpoint. I fell on the crux a couple of times, then used aid to set up a top-rope on the crux. Figured out the beta and sent on the first red-point go. Very tecnical route, super fun!

 
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Butter Arms
5+ Cant believe its not butter - with Ola Trad Good
A #5 cam would have been useful in the end. Fun route!

 
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise
5 Living in Paradise - with Ola Trad 20m Very Good
Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Pianokrakken
4+ Pianohandler Lunds Rute - with Ola
1 4 35m Second
2 4+ 20m Trad
3 4+ 20m Second

led part of it.

4 4+ 30m Trad
Trad 110m Good
A bit discontinuos, but fun and pretty.

 
Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Vågakallen
4+ Nordryggen - with Ola Trad 510m Classic
Ett riktigt alpint äventyr. 14tim bil till bil. Ledde alla 4or, som visade sig vara riktigt fina och krävande på olika vis. Fantastska utsikt, mycket exponering.

 
Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren
6 Pizzatyven - with Ola
1 5- 30m Trad
2 5- 25m Trad
3 6 12m Trad
4 5 15m Trad
5 5+ 18m Trad
Trad 100m Classic
Very good route! The crack pitches felt hard for the grade, but the 6 crux pitch felt relatively easy... maybe spent too much time in the gym?

 
Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Pianokrakken
5+ Appelcake Arete - with Ola
1 Trad
2 Trad
Trad 60m Good
Nice route! First pitch is a bit bold, second one pretty hard for the grade, but beatiful!

 
Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main
6- Guns n' Roses - with Ola
1 5 40m Trad
2 6- 25m Trad
3 6- 25m Trad
Trad 90m Very Good
Beatuful! Every pitch had good and varied climbing, first pitch you have to commit but get rewarded!

 
5 Gandalf - with Ola
1 5 40 Trad
2 5- 35 Trad
3 5- 25 Trad
Trad 100m Good
Start trickier than expected. Eagles nest at midnight was magical!

 
5 Gollum - with Ola
1 5 Trad
2 5- Trad
3 5- Trad
Trad 110m
Comminting first crux, then easier. Nice crack in the middle.

 
Sat 6th Aug 2016 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main
6 Tromsø ekspressen Trad 95m Classic
Nice layback in the beginning!

 
6 Gamle rev Trad 110m Classic
Brilliant route, much raster than it looks! Have fun!

 
Fri 5th Aug 2016 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita
5+ Forsida Trad 120m Classic
The most aestetically pleasing Line of this grade I ever climbed! The last tree pitches are simply magnificent, exposed, easy but not banal.

 
Thu 4th Aug 2016 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Presten Presten
6 Vestpillaren
1 5+ 45 Trad
2 6- 40 Second
3 6 45 Trad
4 5- 25 Second
5 4 30 Trad
6 6- 45 Second
7 6 45 Trad
8 5+ 40 Second
9 6 45 Trad
10 4+ 30 Second
11 5 35 Second
12 3 55 Trad
Trad 480m Classic
Classic, but so much People! 14 ours of which 6 waiting in Line...

 
Tue 2nd Aug 2016 - Lofoten
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Storsvaet
4 Storsvaet Trad 30m Very Good

Showing all 19 ascents.

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