Showing all 40 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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19 | ★ Small Pocks - with Gareth | 9m | Whanganui Bay | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Jul 2022 | |||
On the soft side of 19, unless the left arete isn't in.
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19 | ★★ Survival of the Fittest - with Greg, Gareth | 40m, 14 | Kawakawa Bay | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Apr 2022 | |||
Bloody good, highly recommended. Much cleaner than I was expecting too. An easy warmup cruise up most of Raw Umber lulls you into a false sense of security, then get your runout trousers on for the tricky arete crack (or take a couple of finger size cams). Then it's time for the main game, up the black-streaked corner. You can step across left to a good rest, but getting back right will be tricky if that's where you want to go. Spent a good long while figuring out how to keep moving up on the left and didn't want to leave the rest, but it's all there at the grade. Easier to the top, then best rap down is to the Raw Umber anchor.
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19 | ★★ Exponential Decay - with Jonno | 13m, 4 | Wharepapa Rock | ★ Good | Sat 15th Jan 2022 | |||
Or this. Fun past 1st bolt in overhang, then keeps you working for a bit.
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19 | ★★ Wild Country Express | 16m, 5 | Wharepapa Rock | ★ Good | Sat 30th Jun 2018 | |||
Not bad. Pretty sure I've never been on it.
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19 | ★★ Crown Of Thistles | 20m, 5 | Wharepapa Rock | ★ Good | Sat 7th May 2022 | |||
Neat off balance traverse in the middle, and it's not all over after that. Would benefit from a scrub.
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19 | ★ Streetwise - with Jonno Rau | 15m, 6 | Waipari | ★ Good | Sun 5th Mar 2023 | |||
The least sustained of the three 19s. Short crux above the detached block.
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19 | ★★ Safe Playing - with Fia Forsell | 20m, 8 | Waipari | ★ Good | Wed 20th Apr 2011 | |||
Face a bit strenuous on sharp pockets, arete is nice
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19 | ★★ Climatic Extension | 25m, 11 | Waipari | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Oct 2010 | |||
19 | ★★ Bring Your Daughter to the Slaughter - with Grant Johnston | 25m, 8 | Waipari | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Oct 2010 | |||
Pretty hard for an 18...
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19 | ★ Gnomalised - with Greg | 9m, 3 | Waipari | Average | Sat 2nd Apr 2022 | |||
Bottom felt a bit dicky, but as usual it's the small pockets that are good. Eases toward the top. Too short to be worth a star.
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19 | ★ RD | 6m, 2 | Gorge Road | ★ Good | Wed 3rd Feb 2021 | |||
Good short fun, some kind of slappy nonsense at the top arete.
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19 | ★★★ Captain Caveman - with Angela Hewlett | 60m, 24 | Kawakawa Bay | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Feb 2016 | |||
Great finish for the trip. Would say mega-classic if not so heavily retrobolted. 1st pitch a bit average but cave and top pitch are terrific. Led under time pressure mostly on gear with trad anchor below the chimney, used 2 bolts on P1 (still damp down low), 1st 2 on P2 (maybe some pro available), one before 1st overlap on P3 (probably pro but keen to move on). Top pitch more like fun 17-18 most of the way, engage your brain at the top overhang, sling the obvious thread then find the jugs. Wow.
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19 | ★ Dessicator | 10m, 4 | Pakeho | ★ Good | Wed 31st Oct 2018 | |||
The tree has grown a bit, will take secateurs next time. Good balancy stuff.
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19 | ★★ Dirty Dancing - with Angela Hewlett | 15m, 6 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Nov 2018 | |||
Fun monkey dancing on good pockets out to the arete, crux getting onto the slab above.
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19 | Hammerheads Bite | 15m, 6 | Kawakawa Bay | Average | Wed 30th Dec 2020 | |||
May have used a feature or two from Fuggin’ Jet Skis, but if those aren't in it's a bit bloody contrived. Frankly these are squeeze routes anyway, just one would have been better, and this also arguably retrobolts the trad line. Meh.
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19 | ★ Time Flies - with Gareth, Anja | 20m, 5 | Waipari | ★ Good | Sun 5th Dec 2021 | |||
Reasonably grunty crux, nice airy arete. Thought possibly hard 18 but seems everyone disagrees with me on that, maybe just having a good day.
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19 |
★★ Jugzilla
- with
Gareth, Greg
| 42m, 13 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Thu 30th Dec 2021 | |||
In theory just providing a P1 top rope, but had never done pitch 2, which turns out to be quite balancy with a couple of committing moves until it eases after bolt 3. Nice top out, a smidge higher than Captain Caveman. A hurried rap off and walk back to camp in low light and spots of rain.
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19 | ★★ Sidewinder - with Gareth | 60m, 17 | Kawakawa Bay | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Feb 2022 | |||
Hard to believe I've never done this, it's great. The name is all the beta you need. Pitch 2 is a wee ripper, dancing up the overhanging wall on decent jugs.
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19 | ★★ The Spell of the Barking Spider () - with Terry McCarthy | 74m, 20 | Kingston | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Feb 2013 | |||
Tricky start leads to fun moves through the roof. Terry pulled a jug off seconding through the roof, I hadn't discovered it on the way up anyway.
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19 |
★★★ Ventura Highway
- with
Grant Johnston
| 85m | Kawakawa Bay | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Nov 2019 | |||
Only 3 minutes walk past secret garden! Got on about 9.45, back down 3 hours later with sun on the top pitch only. Getting out of the roof on P3 is pretty memorable, not sure my style there was as good as Grant's. Good solid cruxes on P1, 3 and 4, I think the P4 crux was technically the hardest (balancy, borderline 20?), skipped the bolt above it because I wasn't in a good clipping position. Recommended, would be 3 stars if not for the hand line traverse, a fair bit of dodgy looking rock, and some dirty ledges.
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19 | ★★ C.J.D Arete | 20m, 5 | Ti Point | 2011 | ||||
19 | ★ The Exerstential Purple Thunderbolt - with Jonno Rau | 18m, 6 | Waipari | ★ Good | Sun 5th Mar 2023 | |||
Draws on. Straight up to first bolt, nice right hand jams around midway, then head left.
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19 | ★ Sugar Daddy - with Gareth, Wade | 15m, 6 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Sat 12th Dec 2020 | |||
Draws on. Stayed on face. Quite good but points off for retrobolting and squeezing ATGML and AA.
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19 | ★★ Bandar-log - with Greg | 18m, 10 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Fri 15th Apr 2022 | |||
Draws on. Felt a bit awkward, maybe not the best warmup. One star at most.
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19 Easy | ★★ Hare Rama - with Jonno Rau | 15m, 4 | Wharepapa Rock | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Jul 2023 | |||
Off the dog list. Still nervy getting to first bolt. Bloody good.
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19 | ★ Built For Comfort - with Grant Johnston | 15m, 5 | Wharepapa Rock | ★ Good | Sat 24th Apr 2021 | |||
One off the dog list, climbing bang on the overhanging arete is the way to go. Clipped first 2 bolts of Haul Away, 2nd with long sling, but you'd be better to clip first bolt of Cannibal Groove.
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19 | ★★ School Bus Route - with Gareth, Jonno Rau, Greg, Max | 35m, 8 | Sheridan Hills | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Aug 2022 | |||
Off the dog list. Wanders either side of the bolts, just stay on and keep going.
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19 | ★★ Be Happy | 15m, 4 | Waipari | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Sep 2018 | |||
Really enjoyed this. Mantled the start, cruised the arete, rocked over the fin to top out, though you could use the Automatic Dour anchor.
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19 | ★ Blood Sweat and Sunblock - with Grant Johnston, Tim Swain | 10m, 4 | Maungarei Springs | ★ Good | Sun 17th Sep 2017 | |||
The arete is not as sequency as I thought, and handled the top better too.
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19 | ★ Rock Climb This You Bastards - with Angela Hewlett | 12m, 6 | Maungarei Springs | ★ Good | Fri 20th Oct 2017 | |||
Without the cleaning rest this time. A really good route spoiled by some dubious rock.
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19 | ★★ Pinch and a Punch - with Gareth | 20m, 7 | Kawakawa Bay | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Apr 2023 | |||
Overlooked by all the punters on the squeeze routes.
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19 | ★ Babs In Toyland - with Gareth | 14m, 4 | Wharepapa Rock | ★ Good | Sun 20th Feb 2022 | |||
Soft for 19.
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19 | ★★ Up N Away - with Gareth | 10m | Wharepapa Rock | Average | Sat 2nd Mar 2024 | |||
A bit bloody sharp.
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19 | ★ Drink Like A Lady (LeD) - with Gareth, Jonno, Greg, Claire | 12m, 5 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Thu 30th Dec 2021 | |||
Off the dog list at least. Has you thinking at the start for sure. There's probably a fun grunty direct.
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19 | Sharpe Arete - with Colin Megson, Angela Hewlett | 12m, 3 | Bayley Road | Average | Sun 18th Jan 2015 | |||
Feels like 17-18
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19 | ★★ Speedy Gonzales - with Jonno Rau | 15m, 4 | Wharepapa Rock | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Jul 2023 | |||
Evidently some work needs to be done here.
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19 | ★★ Tulsa Time | 20m, 7 | Waipari | ★ Good | Sun 12th Jun 2016 | |||
All great fun up the hanging arete and above, then totally NOT 19 at the top, more like desperate 22 on very small strong awkward pockets, no jug to clip the anchor from, and topping out looks really alarming. Fell off a few times before finally figuring out a sequence then sticking a finger in the ringbolt at the anchor to safety off. Good route but very hard out of character finish.
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19 | ★ Volcanic - with Gareth | 18m, 7 | Waipari | Average | Sat 4th Mar 2023 | |||
Hardish start to high first bolt. The top was a green lichen mess, take a brush.
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19 | ★ Kindergarden Kop - with Alex | 12m, 7 | Waipapa | Average | Sat 3rd Oct 2020 | |||
Can't do the mantle, long back works against me. Finished up lay back. Again. Bah.
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19 | ★ Don’t Be A Prick, Clean Your Tick - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 20m, 4 | Kawakawa Bay | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Feb 2024 | |||
Bloody high 1st bolt preclipped, but the climbing to it is easy enough. Fluffed the crux trying to use Aidan's beta, eventually found something better for me. Must come back for this.
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Showing all 40 ascents.