Guidebooks
Help

Ascents as sport by John Pitcairn having Distinct route

Searching in:

Ascent filters:

Min:
Max:
  • Protection
  • Milestone
  • Wearable
  • Journey
-

Route filters:

Climber filters:

Sort by:

Showing all 40 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Date
19 Small Pocks - with Gareth Sport 9m Whanganui Bay Good Sat 2nd Jul 2022
On the soft side of 19, unless the left arete isn't in.

 
19 Survival of the Fittest - with Greg, Gareth Sport 40m, 14 Kawakawa Bay Very Good Sat 16th Apr 2022
Bloody good, highly recommended. Much cleaner than I was expecting too. An easy warmup cruise up most of Raw Umber lulls you into a false sense of security, then get your runout trousers on for the tricky arete crack (or take a couple of finger size cams). Then it's time for the main game, up the black-streaked corner. You can step across left to a good rest, but getting back right will be tricky if that's where you want to go. Spent a good long while figuring out how to keep moving up on the left and didn't want to leave the rest, but it's all there at the grade. Easier to the top, then best rap down is to the Raw Umber anchor.

 
19 Exponential Decay - with Jonno Sport 13m, 4 Wharepapa Rock Good Sat 15th Jan 2022
Or this. Fun past 1st bolt in overhang, then keeps you working for a bit.

 
19 Wild Country Express Sport 16m, 5 Wharepapa Rock Good Sat 30th Jun 2018
Not bad. Pretty sure I've never been on it.

 
19 Crown Of Thistles Sport 20m, 5 Wharepapa Rock Good Sat 7th May 2022
Neat off balance traverse in the middle, and it's not all over after that. Would benefit from a scrub.

 
19 Streetwise - with Jonno Rau Sport 15m, 6 Waipari Good Sun 5th Mar 2023
The least sustained of the three 19s. Short crux above the detached block.

 
19 Safe Playing - with Fia Forsell Sport 20m, 8 Waipari Good Wed 20th Apr 2011
Face a bit strenuous on sharp pockets, arete is nice

 
19 Climatic Extension Sport 25m, 11 Waipari Very Good Sun 10th Oct 2010
19 Bring Your Daughter to the Slaughter - with Grant Johnston Sport 25m, 8 Waipari Very Good Sat 9th Oct 2010
Pretty hard for an 18...

 
19 Gnomalised - with Greg Sport 9m, 3 Waipari Average Sat 2nd Apr 2022
Bottom felt a bit dicky, but as usual it's the small pockets that are good. Eases toward the top. Too short to be worth a star.

 
19 RD Sport 6m, 2 Gorge Road Good Wed 3rd Feb 2021
Good short fun, some kind of slappy nonsense at the top arete.

 
19 Captain Caveman - with Angela Hewlett Sport 60m, 24 Kawakawa Bay Classic Mon 1st Feb 2016
Great finish for the trip. Would say mega-classic if not so heavily retrobolted. 1st pitch a bit average but cave and top pitch are terrific. Led under time pressure mostly on gear with trad anchor below the chimney, used 2 bolts on P1 (still damp down low), 1st 2 on P2 (maybe some pro available), one before 1st overlap on P3 (probably pro but keen to move on). Top pitch more like fun 17-18 most of the way, engage your brain at the top overhang, sling the obvious thread then find the jugs. Wow.

 
19 Dessicator Sport 10m, 4 Pakeho Good Wed 31st Oct 2018
The tree has grown a bit, will take secateurs next time. Good balancy stuff.

 
19 Dirty Dancing - with Angela Hewlett Sport 15m, 6 Kawakawa Bay Good Sat 3rd Nov 2018
Fun monkey dancing on good pockets out to the arete, crux getting onto the slab above.

 
19 Hammerheads Bite Sport 15m, 6 Kawakawa Bay Average Wed 30th Dec 2020
May have used a feature or two from Fuggin’ Jet Skis, but if those aren't in it's a bit bloody contrived. Frankly these are squeeze routes anyway, just one would have been better, and this also arguably retrobolts the trad line. Meh.

 
19 Time Flies - with Gareth, Anja Sport 20m, 5 Waipari Good Sun 5th Dec 2021
Reasonably grunty crux, nice airy arete. Thought possibly hard 18 but seems everyone disagrees with me on that, maybe just having a good day.

 
19 Jugzilla - with Gareth, Greg
1 17 30m lead by John Pitcairn
2 19 12m lead by John Pitcairn
Sport 42m, 13 Kawakawa Bay Good Thu 30th Dec 2021
In theory just providing a P1 top rope, but had never done pitch 2, which turns out to be quite balancy with a couple of committing moves until it eases after bolt 3. Nice top out, a smidge higher than Captain Caveman. A hurried rap off and walk back to camp in low light and spots of rain.

 
19 Sidewinder - with Gareth
1 19 31m lead by John Pitcairn
2 19 10m lead by John Pitcairn
3 17 19m lead by Gareth
Sport 60m, 17 Kawakawa Bay Very Good Tue 1st Feb 2022
Hard to believe I've never done this, it's great. The name is all the beta you need. Pitch 2 is a wee ripper, dancing up the overhanging wall on decent jugs.

 
19 The Spell of the Barking Spider () - with Terry McCarthy
1 19 lead by John Pitcairn
2 18 lead by John Pitcairn
3 17 lead by Terry McCarthy
Sport 74m, 20 Kingston Very Good Sat 9th Feb 2013
Tricky start leads to fun moves through the roof. Terry pulled a jug off seconding through the roof, I hadn't discovered it on the way up anyway.

 
19 Ventura Highway - with Grant Johnston
1 19 30m lead by John Pitcairn
2 16 12m lead by Grant Johnston
3 19 13m lead by John Pitcairn
4 19 30m lead by John Pitcairn
Sport 85m Kawakawa Bay Very Good Sun 24th Nov 2019
Only 3 minutes walk past secret garden! Got on about 9.45, back down 3 hours later with sun on the top pitch only. Getting out of the roof on P3 is pretty memorable, not sure my style there was as good as Grant's. Good solid cruxes on P1, 3 and 4, I think the P4 crux was technically the hardest (balancy, borderline 20?), skipped the bolt above it because I wasn't in a good clipping position. Recommended, would be 3 stars if not for the hand line traverse, a fair bit of dodgy looking rock, and some dirty ledges.

 
19 C.J.D Arete Sport 20m, 5 Ti Point 2011
19 The Exerstential Purple Thunderbolt - with Jonno Rau Sport 18m, 6 Waipari Good Sun 5th Mar 2023
Draws on. Straight up to first bolt, nice right hand jams around midway, then head left.

 
19 Sugar Daddy - with Gareth, Wade Sport 15m, 6 Kawakawa Bay Good Sat 12th Dec 2020
Draws on. Stayed on face. Quite good but points off for retrobolting and squeezing ATGML and AA.

 
19 Bandar-log - with Greg Sport 18m, 10 Kawakawa Bay Good Fri 15th Apr 2022
Draws on. Felt a bit awkward, maybe not the best warmup. One star at most.

 
19 Easy Hare Rama - with Jonno Rau Sport 15m, 4 Wharepapa Rock Very Good Sun 30th Jul 2023
Off the dog list. Still nervy getting to first bolt. Bloody good.

 
19 Built For Comfort - with Grant Johnston Sport 15m, 5 Wharepapa Rock Good Sat 24th Apr 2021
One off the dog list, climbing bang on the overhanging arete is the way to go. Clipped first 2 bolts of Haul Away, 2nd with long sling, but you'd be better to clip first bolt of Cannibal Groove.

 
19 School Bus Route - with Gareth, Jonno Rau, Greg, Max Sport 35m, 8 Sheridan Hills Very Good Sun 14th Aug 2022
Off the dog list. Wanders either side of the bolts, just stay on and keep going.

 
19 Be Happy Sport 15m, 4 Waipari Very Good Sat 29th Sep 2018
Really enjoyed this. Mantled the start, cruised the arete, rocked over the fin to top out, though you could use the Automatic Dour anchor.

 
19 Blood Sweat and Sunblock - with Grant Johnston, Tim Swain Sport 10m, 4 Maungarei Springs Good Sun 17th Sep 2017
The arete is not as sequency as I thought, and handled the top better too.

 
19 Rock Climb This You Bastards - with Angela Hewlett Sport 12m, 6 Maungarei Springs Good Fri 20th Oct 2017
Without the cleaning rest this time. A really good route spoiled by some dubious rock.

 
19 Pinch and a Punch - with Gareth Sport 20m, 7 Kawakawa Bay Very Good Sat 8th Apr 2023
Overlooked by all the punters on the squeeze routes.

 
19 Babs In Toyland - with Gareth Sport 14m, 4 Wharepapa Rock Good Sun 20th Feb 2022
Soft for 19.

 
19 Up N Away - with Gareth Sport 10m Wharepapa Rock Average Sat 2nd Mar 2024
A bit bloody sharp.

 
19 Drink Like A Lady (LeD) - with Gareth, Jonno, Greg, Claire Sport 12m, 5 Kawakawa Bay Good Thu 30th Dec 2021
Off the dog list at least. Has you thinking at the start for sure. There's probably a fun grunty direct.

 
19 Sharpe Arete - with Colin Megson, Angela Hewlett Sport 12m, 3 Bayley Road Average Sun 18th Jan 2015
Feels like 17-18

 
19 Speedy Gonzales - with Jonno Rau Sport 15m, 4 Wharepapa Rock Very Good Sun 16th Jul 2023
Evidently some work needs to be done here.

 
19 Tulsa Time Sport 20m, 7 Waipari Good Sun 12th Jun 2016
All great fun up the hanging arete and above, then totally NOT 19 at the top, more like desperate 22 on very small strong awkward pockets, no jug to clip the anchor from, and topping out looks really alarming. Fell off a few times before finally figuring out a sequence then sticking a finger in the ringbolt at the anchor to safety off. Good route but very hard out of character finish.

 
19 Volcanic - with Gareth Sport 18m, 7 Waipari Average Sat 4th Mar 2023
Hardish start to high first bolt. The top was a green lichen mess, take a brush.

 
19 Kindergarden Kop - with Alex Sport 12m, 7 Waipapa Average Sat 3rd Oct 2020
Can't do the mantle, long back works against me. Finished up lay back. Again. Bah.

 
19 Don’t Be A Prick, Clean Your Tick - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth Sport 20m, 4 Kawakawa Bay Good Sat 3rd Feb 2024
Bloody high 1st bolt preclipped, but the climbing to it is easy enough. Fluffed the crux trying to use Aidan's beta, eventually found something better for me. Must come back for this.

 

Showing all 40 ascents.