Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trad | ||||||||
26 |
★★ Seamstress
![]() | 30m | Point Perpendicular | ★★ Very Good | Tue 22nd Apr 2014 | |||
A searing, white, marble seam which splits off the old classic Windjammer, at half height. I preplaced the gear (tiny wires) like the first ascent team. It's certainly doable placing the gear, and doable to onsight - for a trad gun
|
||||||||
Sport | ||||||||
25 |
★★ Cthulhu (full version)
![]() | 45m, 24 | Urbenville | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Jul 2014 | |||
One of the cleanest lines on the cliff thanks to Reido's work ethic. Good job dude!
|
||||||||
24 |
★★ (Project - Orthrus (full version) - Nathan)
![]() | 20m, 23 | Urbenville | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th Sep 2014 | |||
Gentlemen's sit. Getting gear off for Nath. This is super clean and good.
|
||||||||
8a 7c+ |
★★★ Evil lurks behind every man's heart
![]() | 55m, 21 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★★ Classic | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
Marathon effort to get the gear on this 55m monster. Took 19 draws and ran out.
|
||||||||
8a 7c+ |
★★★ Evil lurks behind every man's heart
![]() | 55m, 21 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★★ Classic | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | |||
At 55m, makes Crossroads look short. About 4 or 5 cruxes which I really didn't want to blow. Maybe the longest pitch I have done. Biggest on wall. [2]
|
||||||||
27 |
★★ Wyvern
![]() | 45m, 20 | Urbenville | Sat 15th Mar 2014 | ||||
Trying this today.
|
||||||||
27 |
★★ Wyvern
![]() | 45m, 20 | Urbenville | Sat 15th Mar 2014 | ||||
Bolt 17 highpoint.
|
||||||||
27 |
FA
★★ Wyvern
![]() | 45m, 20 | Urbenville | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Mar 2014 | |||
FFA. This blew my mind at the time as my first route on the cliff.
|
||||||||
27 |
★★ Wyvern
![]() | 45m, 20 | Urbenville | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Jun 2014 | |||
Doing some work on it. Installed halfway lower-off.
|
||||||||
7a+ |
★★★ Scusassi
![]() | 36m, 18 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Wed 24th Sep 2014 | |||
Some tricky slab stuff down low and then graciously relents into steeper tufa pulling thank god.
|
||||||||
30 |
★★★ Behemoth
![]() | 40m, 18 | Urbenville | Sat 7th Jun 2014 | ||||
Shot 1
|
||||||||
30 |
★★★ Behemoth
![]() | 40m, 18 | Urbenville | Sat 7th Jun 2014 | ||||
Shot 2
|
||||||||
30 |
★★★ Behemoth
![]() | 40m, 18 | Urbenville | Sat 7th Jun 2014 | ||||
Shot 3
|
||||||||
30 |
★★★ Behemoth
![]() | 40m, 18 | Urbenville | Sun 8th Jun 2014 | ||||
Shot 1
|
||||||||
30 |
★★★ Behemoth
![]() | 40m, 18 | Urbenville | Sun 8th Jun 2014 | ||||
Shot 2
|
||||||||
30 |
★★★ Behemoth
![]() | 40m, 18 | Urbenville | Sun 8th Jun 2014 | ||||
Shot 3
|
||||||||
30 |
★★★ Behemoth
![]() | 40m, 18 | Urbenville | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th Jun 2014 | |||
Shot 1
|
||||||||
30 |
★★★ Behemoth
![]() | 40m, 18 | Urbenville | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th Jun 2014 | |||
Shot 2
|
||||||||
30 |
FA
★★★ Behemoth
![]() | 40m, 18 | Urbenville | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th Jun 2014 | |||
FFA. Climbed this in long pants and a jumper, so it must have been good conditions. Very hard to grade this one. It's similar to One Hit To The Body. Such cool go-for-it moves up top. Lots of big falls.
|
||||||||
26 |
★★ Monster
![]() | 40m, 18 | Urbenville | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Jun 2014 | |||
Flash placing the gear. I thought this was 25 at the time, could very well be 26 though.
|
||||||||
26 |
Garm
![]() | 40m, 18 | Urbenville | ★ Good | Sun 22nd Jun 2014 | |||
Thought this was 25 as well. Really hard to know with these routes. They're all similar.
|
||||||||
25 |
★ Geryon
![]() | 40m, 18 | Urbenville | ★ Good | Sat 6th Sep 2014 | |||
Used this as a warm up one morning which was actually sort of doable, because it was bouldery to a rest, bouldery to a rest, repeated.
|
||||||||
24 |
FA
★ Kongamato (full version)
![]() | 20m, 17 | Urbenville | ★★ Very Good | Thu 17th Apr 2014 | |||
FFA. The top corner is pure gold, like a harder version of Caritas. And just gets harder as you go. Tradlords will be at home. I've since added a long perma-sling to avoid some whimpering. Thanks to Henk for the anchor and top bolt!
|
||||||||
6c |
★★ La Bella Vita
![]() | 43m, 17 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Oct 2014 | |||
A wandering, 40m adventure pitch. Good bits and crappy bits. Worth doing.
|
||||||||
26 |
★★ Giant
![]() | 38m, 16 | Urbenville | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Jun 2014 | |||
26 |
★★ Giant
![]() | 38m, 16 | Urbenville | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Jun 2014 | |||
This has some great rock and you really need to climb. More sustained than most Crossroads routes. [3]
|
||||||||
24 |
FA
★ Chimera
![]() | 35m, 16 | Urbenville | ★ Good | Sat 28th Jun 2014 | |||
FFA. This has had a few ascents now. One of the easier routes on the wall.
|
||||||||
25 |
★ Balor
![]() | 35m, 16 | Urbenville | ★ Good | Sat 28th Jun 2014 | |||
This one felt 25/6. Second ascent.
|
||||||||
26 |
★★ Dark Days Ahead
![]() | 28m, 15 | Urbenville | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Mar 2014 | |||
On my earlier onsight attempt with JJ I fell after the last bolt which I am way more proud of than the actual send. This route kicks arse. It'll make you toss and turn at night. [2]
|
||||||||
6b+ |
★★★ Per I Nostri Amici (Per Nostre Amici)
![]() | 30m, 15 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 6th Oct 2014 | |||
JJs best route eva.
|
||||||||
7c+ |
★★★ Comes true
![]() | 30m, 15 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 6th Oct 2014 | |||
Recent right hand variant finish adding 15m of new climbing. Flashed, but had climbed the start.
|
||||||||
6b+ |
★★ Keep cool
![]() | 34m, 15 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Fri 17th Oct 2014 | |||
Long. A good warmup at this level.
|
||||||||
25 |
FA
★★ Pompeii
![]() | 27m, 14 | Urbenville | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Jan 2014 | |||
FFA. Yes, did the first ascent on the 41 degree day. Sauna training. Dunc reckoned this is one of the best 25's around.
|
||||||||
6c |
Probabilmente era naturale
![]() | 35m, 14 | San Vito lo Capo | Average | Wed 24th Sep 2014 | |||
Lol. So you're cruising, then there's a blank overhang with monster glue-on. You dyno from the glue on to undercling pinch the bottom of a stalactite. I fell. And then 6a to the top. Again, needs an extension!
|
||||||||
7a |
★★ Monsun wedding
![]() | 30m, 14 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Primo rock quality. A couple of hard pulls on tiny pockets. Should finish 10m lower before it climbs into coral.
|
||||||||
7c+ 7c/c+ |
★★★ The Wish
![]() | 30m, 14 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 6th Oct 2014 | |||
Missed the dyno on the onsight.
|
||||||||
7c+ 7c/c+ |
★★★ The Wish
![]() | 30m, 14 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 6th Oct 2014 | |||
Ultra high quality face route, probably one of the best at San Vito. Love. That pocket's drilled though :p [2]
|
||||||||
7b |
★★ Il Minotauro
![]() | 30m, 14 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Oct 2014 | |||
End of day destruction. Only just pulled it out. Placing gear.
|
||||||||
6c |
★★ Comment te dire adieu? (Comment ti dire adieu ?)
![]() | 30m, 14 | San Vito lo Capo | Don't Bother | Sun 19th Oct 2014 | |||
It's just not great. But when everything else is damp...
|
||||||||
24 |
★★ The Omen
![]() | 22m, 13 | Point Perpendicular | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Apr 2014 | |||
This is the pound of flesh route, whippers galore.
|
||||||||
6b |
★★ Fun To Funky
![]() | 30m, 13 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
This was hard! Tufa-flow climbing, into a very cool corner.
|
||||||||
7b 7a+ |
★★★ Seltsam anmutende Vollspacken (Seltsam ammutende vollspacken)
![]() | 30m, 13 | San Vito lo Capo | ★ Good | Mon 13th Oct 2014 | |||
Not a good warmup onsight.
|
||||||||
7b 7a+ |
★★★ Seltsam anmutende Vollspacken (Seltsam ammutende vollspacken)
![]() | 30m, 13 | San Vito lo Capo | ★ Good | Mon 13th Oct 2014 | |||
A short grunty section through the bulge, then fine.
|
||||||||
6b+ |
★★ Il domatore di capre
![]() | 28m, 13 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Thu 16th Oct 2014 | |||
A heap of variety in this one. Borderline classic.
|
||||||||
6b+ |
★★ Il sale della terra
![]() | 30m, 13 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Oct 2014 | |||
This was mentally exhausting. Well worth doing, but expect a lot of climbing. Not easy.
|
||||||||
6c |
★★ La mano nera
![]() | 30m, 13 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Oct 2014 | |||
Just like 'Equatorial' in Thailand. Classic. Was 7a, and you know, it might be.
|
||||||||
6b+ |
★ Principino
![]() | 30m, 12 | San Vito lo Capo | ★ Good | Wed 24th Sep 2014 | |||
Deviates big time to follow the line of least resistance, so much so you end up skipping a bolt. A 10m extension on perfect amazing tufa blobs is crying out to be done.
|
||||||||
6c 6c+ |
★★ Cat Walk
![]() | 28m, 12 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Tricksy slabbing on super rock. Hard crux reach off a tiny undercling crimp.
|
||||||||
6a 6a+ |
★★ Rumba
![]() | 30m, 12 | San Vito lo Capo | ★ Good | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Sharp coral start and then it's nice.
|
||||||||
6b |
★★★ Cannolo scomposto
![]() | 30m, 12 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★★ Classic | Thu 2nd Oct 2014 | |||
Sam put in a huge effort onsighting this. Some guidebooks say 6b+.
|
||||||||
6c+ |
★★ O brothers
![]() | 30m, 12 | San Vito lo Capo | Average | Sun 12th Oct 2014 | |||
Not as good as its Kalymnos counterpart.
|
||||||||
6c+ |
★★ Red Peroni
![]() | 25m, 12 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Mon 13th Oct 2014 | |||
Huge chimney-cleft. Wild overhung moves to exit onto the headwall, then crux pawing on prickle-slopers.
|
||||||||
25 |
★★★ Vertical Romance
![]() | 30m, 11 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Apr 2014 | |||
This totally made my day. Not a skerrick of chalk, pure onsight drop the clutch action with several "I'm off!" moments. Just awesome.
|
||||||||
24 |
FA
★ Extra Bolt
![]() | 22m, 11 | Urbenville | ★ Good | Sat 9th Aug 2014 | |||
FFA. A bit of fun to make Extra Shot harder. Traverse the flake. Go on, do it.
|
||||||||
7c+ |
★★ Super Santos
![]() | 20m, 11 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Oct 2014 | |||
7c+ |
★★ Super Santos
![]() | 20m, 11 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Oct 2014 | |||
Perfect white marble, vertical. Crazy crux I managed to solve with patented dyno-barndoor.
|
||||||||
7a+ |
★★ Alfa Romeo
![]() | 17m, 11 | San Vito lo Capo | ★ Good | Fri 3rd Oct 2014 | |||
Slippery tufa outing, much loved at this easy access sector. Felt nails.
|
||||||||
6c |
★★ The Hole
![]() | 27m, 11 | San Vito lo Capo | ★ Good | Mon 6th Oct 2014 | |||
Harder than you'd think to get into.
|
||||||||
6b |
★★ Calcarea
![]() | 22m, 11 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Oct 2014 | |||
So this wall is one of the most amazing in San Vito, but, like Kalydna, it gets damp/wet, and not from rain. It's like the rock sweats. We had a strong breeze all day and it never dried. Weird - there were 30 climbers here yesterday!
|
||||||||
7c+ |
★★ Spacelab
![]() | 22m, 11 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Tue 21st Oct 2014 | |||
After Teamwork, thought I should have a go. Why not?
|
||||||||
7c+ |
★★ Spacelab
![]() | 22m, 11 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Tue 21st Oct 2014 | |||
The sun was inexorably creeping across the wall, no time to rest, go go go! I raced the sun and the sun won. But I ticked.
|
||||||||
19 |
★★ Gnarley
![]() | 18m, 10 | Pages Pinnacle | ★ Good | Sat 18th Jan 2014 | |||
Thongs! Training for the time when you have to climb in thongs. For some reason.
|
||||||||
21 |
★★ Blowing In The Wind
![]() | 20m, 10 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Fri 18th Apr 2014 | |||
This is awesome. The chalk indicates people wander around a bit. If you follow the obvious climbing, it's probably 20.
|
||||||||
23 |
★★ Happy Go Lucky
![]() | 22m, 10 | Point Perpendicular | Average | Sat 19th Apr 2014 | |||
You never like the ones you fall off. I didn't like this. Confusing down low thanks to bolt placements, and otherwise sharp and hard! [2]
|
||||||||
22 |
★★ Shooting The Breeze
![]() | 23m, 10 | Point Perpendicular | ★★ Very Good | Tue 22nd Apr 2014 | |||
This was amazing - another win from the Phillips crew. I would have rated it a classic if the anchor was two bolts lower at the obvious finish.
|
||||||||
18 |
★ Pliny The Elder
![]() | 22m, 10 | Urbenville | ★ Good | Sat 1st Mar 2014 | |||
Snap - whip! Doing my bit to clean things up.
|
||||||||
29 28 |
★★ Knifey Spooney
![]() | 22m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Sat 26th Apr 2014 | ||||
Basically couldn't get off the ground, until I found some bizarre beta for wrapping my R toe under the roof.
|
||||||||
29 28 |
★★ Knifey Spooney
![]() | 22m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Sat 26th Apr 2014 | ||||
Through the start, and up to the layoff tricky bit.
|
||||||||
29 28 |
★★ Knifey Spooney
![]() | 22m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Sat 26th Apr 2014 | ||||
Made the velcro clip, held the powerful gaston and came off the move to the knife hold.
|
||||||||
29 28 |
★★ Knifey Spooney
![]() | 22m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Sun 4th May 2014 | ||||
Getting the gear on, and remembering Spoonman again.
|
||||||||
29 28 |
★★ Knifey Spooney
![]() | 22m, 10 | Mt Coolum | Sun 4th May 2014 | ||||
Definitely a way to make Spoonman much harder. Props to Gareth, Antoine and Jimmy. Handful of tries over three days, one a few years ago.
|
||||||||
18 |
★ Pliny The Elder
![]() | 22m, 10 | Urbenville | ★ Good | Sat 24th May 2014 | |||
Sneaker rematch.
|
||||||||
8a |
★★★ Christo
![]() | 25m, 10 | San Vito lo Capo | Wed 24th Sep 2014 | ||||
I got shut down on the low traverse (soapy holds, and it was just hard), which was a shame because I did the upper dyno crux first shot.
|
||||||||
7a+ |
★★★ Banana Biologica
![]() | 22m, 10 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Wed 24th Sep 2014 | |||
The first half of this up to the point where it gets hard is mega classic. Beautiful marble.
|
||||||||
7b+ |
★★ Archeotalpa
![]() | 19m, 10 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Fri 26th Sep 2014 | |||
Deepest and steepest in the cave. Lots of stalactites with a punchy boulder finish.
|
||||||||
6a+ |
★★ Bando alla Ciancio
![]() | 20m, 10 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Mon 29th Sep 2014 | |||
Tufas, pockets and not super easy. There is no escaping the sun at this sector. Super early mornings only?
|
||||||||
7c 7b+ |
★★★ Pipeline
![]() | 28m, 10 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★★ Classic | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
Rock quality to the max. Reminded me of the rock on the left side of Thaiwand Wall.
|
||||||||
7b |
★★ Walk The Line
![]() | 30m, 10 | San Vito lo Capo | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | ||||
Can't remember the last 7b I've had to back off.
|
||||||||
7a |
★★ Beam Me Up Scottie
![]() | 18m, 10 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★★ Classic | Fri 3rd Oct 2014 | |||
This was hard! Or I was tired! Or both! Great though.
|
||||||||
7c 7b+ |
★★ Mal di Schiena
![]() | 25m, 10 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th Oct 2014 | |||
This was pretty awesome. Big pockets up a steep wall of marble.
|
||||||||
5c |
★★ Nini
![]() | 25m, 10 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★ Very Good | Tue 21st Oct 2014 | |||
This was the perfect warm up for the 8a. Apparently! 60+ people at this one section of wall today. WTF!?
|
||||||||
22 |
★★ Bombay Rock
![]() | 18m, 9 | Pages Pinnacle | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Jan 2014 | |||
Warm up.
|
||||||||
20 |
★ Plinian Eruption
![]() | 25m, 9 | Urbenville | ★ Good | Sat 1st Feb 2014 | |||
This is a bit spacey!
|
||||||||
20 |
★ Dave
![]() | 12m, 9 | Mt Coolum | Sat 26th Apr 2014 | ||||
Warm up
|
||||||||
6b |
★★★ Red Necks
![]() | 22m, 9 | San Vito lo Capo | ★★★ Classic | Wed 24th Sep 2014 | |||
First route on Sicily! Super route at the grade. Really interesting.
|
||||||||
7b+ |
★★ Black Snake
![]() | 28m, 9 | San Vito lo Capo | Average | Tue 30th Sep 2014 | |||
A series of 2mm crimps is not really what you are expecting up there. I saw fall after fall on this all day.
|
||||||||
31 |
★★★ Vixen
![]() | 20m, 9 | Urbenville | Sun 20th Jul 2014 | ||||
First climbing on the route.
|
||||||||
31 |
★★★ Vixen
![]() | 20m, 9 | Urbenville | Sat 26th Jul 2014 | ||||
Shot 1
|
||||||||
31 |
★★★ Vixen
![]() | 20m, 9 | Urbenville | Sat 26th Jul 2014 | ||||
Shot 2
|
||||||||
31 |
★★★ Vixen
![]() | 20m, 9 | Urbenville | Sat 26th Jul 2014 | ||||
Shot 3 - 1 hung to the 7th bolt.
|
||||||||
31 |
★★★ Vixen
![]() | 20m, 9 | Urbenville | Sat 26th Jul 2014 | ||||
Shot 4
|
||||||||
31 |
★★★ Vixen
![]() | 20m, 9 | Urbenville | Sat 2nd Aug 2014 | ||||
Shot 1 - all moves done
|
||||||||
31 |
★★★ Vixen
![]() | 20m, 9 | Urbenville | Sat 2nd Aug 2014 | ||||
Shot 2 - linked 4-8 for the first time
|
||||||||
31 |
★★★ Vixen
![]() | 20m, 9 | Urbenville | Sat 2nd Aug 2014 | ||||
Shot 3 - held crossover from ground
|
||||||||
31 |
★★★ Vixen
![]() | 20m, 9 | Urbenville | Sat 2nd Aug 2014 | ||||
Shot 4 - held crossover from ground
|
||||||||
31 |
★★★ Vixen
![]() | 20m, 9 | Urbenville | Sat 9th Aug 2014 | ||||
Shot 1 - Made it through the crossover twice today
|
||||||||
31 |
★★★ Vixen
![]() | 20m, 9 | Urbenville | Sat 9th Aug 2014 | ||||
Shot 2 - 1 hung the route, game on.
|
||||||||
31 |
★★★ Vixen
![]() | 20m, 9 | Urbenville | Sat 9th Aug 2014 | ||||
Shot 3
|
||||||||
31 |
★★★ Vixen
![]() | 20m, 9 | Urbenville | Sun 10th Aug 2014 | ||||
Shot 1
|
||||||||
31 |
★★★ Vixen
![]() | 20m, 9 | Urbenville | Sun 10th Aug 2014 | ||||
Shot 2
|