Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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5+ 6+ | Bocadillo - with Bovist | 15m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sat 9th Jun 2018 | |||
Strange route, not really a good line. The climbing would be okay, but it draws you into the crack, climbing directly between the second and third bolt would be stupid. Easier that way.
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5a 5c | ★ Zac - with Daniel | 15m, 8 | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Fri 10th Mar 2017 | |||
Polished start as always, nice slab in the middle and a very tricky finish on polished slab.
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5+ 6 | Mauersegler - with Daniel | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sun 21st Apr 2019 | |||
Quite short; didn't feel like 6 to me.
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5+ 6 | ★ Südpfeiler - with Jenny | 18m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 3rd Oct 2017 | |||
Nice wall climbing, directly over the face next to the dihedral of "Südverschneidung".
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5a 5b | ★★ Spigolo Fuili - with Bovist | 25m | Nuorese | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Sep 2019 | |||
Great line to the left of the arête. Cruxy section in the middle on slightly smaller holds, the rest is jugs. Enjoyable climb with a nice view over the beach.
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5+ 6- | ★ Linke Südwand - with Bovist | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 17th Oct 2020 | |||
Surprisingly good. Hardest move right at the start, then easy jugs to the slightly overhanging crack section, which is a nice jamming practice.
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5+ 6- | ★★ Westverschneidung - with Bovist | 15m, 7 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Sep 2017 | |||
Cool dihedral climbing, mostly bridging and stemming. Good rock quality and sensible protection.
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5+ 6- | ★★ Übergangsobjekt - with Bovist | 15m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 31st Dec 2020 | |||
Interesting filigree pocket structures at the top. Cruxy bit in the middle. #puffpoint
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5a | ★ Ale'Gher - with Teresa | 17m | Nago | Thu 24th Jul 2014 | ||||
5a | ★★ Lumaconi - with Bovist | 25m | Pietra di Bismantova | ★★ Very Good | Mon 3rd Oct 2022 | |||
Nice wall climbing along a wide double crack. Actually the first pitch of a longer climb.
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5+ | ★ Talseite - with Teresa | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 29th Aug 2015 | |||
5+ | ★ Marderkante - with Harald | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 28th Dec 2022 | |||
Interesting arête with good laybacking moves. A nut between the first and second bolt is sensible.
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5+ | ★★ Südwestriss - with Merlin | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Mon 23rd Oct 2023 | |||
Straight up via the crack system. Interesting start, powerful in the upper part. Wrongly graded 4+ in some guidebooks.
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5+ | ★★ Enzianriss - with Teresa | 22m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Oct 2018 | |||
Splendid dihedral, then a short traverse to evade the steep roof, a nifty step around the corner and a delightful final wall with big holds.
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5+ | ★ Zeiselweg - with Bovist | 15m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 9th Jun 2018 | |||
Nice bouldery start followed by pleasurable climbing on big jugs. A bit grassy, I plucked out a few patches.
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5+ | ★ R4a - with Bovist | 17m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 20th Jan 2019 | |||
Chimney business. Two little chimneys stacked on top of each other. Crux is to get over the second bolt. The slab at the top apparently doesn't belong to the route, but it makes it longer and provides a nice (albeit a bit harder) finish.
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5+ | ★★ Nüssel Gedenkweg - with Daniel, Alex | 25m, 7 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th May 2023 | |||
Great line, neglected classic. The traverse below the roof is probably what puts most people off, no easy toproping possible. Neither polished nor exceedingly chossy. Best lower off the last bolt, the last few meters are overgrown and there's no anchor. Concerning the route: it's a fun, easy traverse and good layback and crack climbing.
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5+ | ★ Edelweißverschneidung - with Bovist | 30m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sat 1st Sep 2018 | |||
Good climbing up to the second bolt (crux is passing the first bolt). The difficulties end there, so it's best to lower off from there, because the rest is not very interesting (except for the fact that you need to be very careful about breaking off holds …), and there's lots of vegetation after the third bolt. Also, no anchor and you need to walk a bit away from the edge to find a trustworthy tree (next to an ant hill).
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5+ | ★★ Tutti Frutti - with Bovist | 12m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 7th Dec 2017 | |||
Interesting, well-protected dihedral. Rather short.
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5+ | ★ Mittagsweg - with Daniel | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Mon 10th Apr 2023 | |||
Long traverse to the right from the ledge beneath the "Buhldach" in good rock. Not 100% clear where the traverse ends, you can finish up right after the (empty) book case or traverse further to the finish of "Schiefer Oskar", which is what I did.
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5+ | ★★ Norisbaba Direkteinstieg - with Harald | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 26th May 2021 | |||
Nice dihedral that provides an alternative first pitch to "Norisbaba". Careful with the big hollow blocks in the traverse after the first bolt (which should be extended).
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5+ | Talkamin - with Alex | 36m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 28th Aug 2018 | |||
Good line with very alpine feel to it. The rock quality is dubious in places, so if you're not feeling comfortable in that sort of terrain, especially with 4 bolts over 35 meters, don't even think about it. Plenty of placements for additional gear, though. Mealy rock in the beginning, but it gets better quickly. Nice bridging before the crux, a narrow chimney section. No bolts after that, i.e. for about 15 meters. There's an anchor at the very top.
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5+ | ★★ Nordwestkante - with Bovist | 28m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Jul 2020 | |||
Interesting and bold start, didn't spot many placements on the way to the first bolt, which is harder than it looks. Then up to the ledge and in beautiful black rock along the arête to the top.
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5+ | ★ Neuer Gemsenweg - with Harald | 19m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 10th Jun 2022 | |||
Starts as "Alter Gemsenweg", but then draws up over the little overhang. Easier than "Alter Gemsenweg" in free climbing terms, but felt a bit more powerful all in all.
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5+ | ★ Handschuhfach - with Teresa | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 30th Jun 2018 | |||
Good dihedral and crack climbing; only two bolts, but good placements for nuts and cams.
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5+ | ★ Westverschneidung - with David X | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 12th May 2019 | |||
Wandering a bit, but it's easy and nice to protect this way. Good route!
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5+ | ★★ Südwestkante - with Bovist | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th May 2020 | |||
Great slabby wall/arête, quite long and in perfect rock. The start is the hardest part.
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5+ | ★★★ Mathias-Baur-Gedenkweg - with mantra | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Thu 28th Sep 2017 | |||
A pure classic. The hardest part for me was the bridging at the very start. ;-) Once that's taken care of, you can enjoy yourself with every single move. The protection seems a bit scarce at first, but turns out to be fine with one or the other additional nut. Perfect rock (especially for this here crag).
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5+ | ★★ Alte Nebelsteiner - with asn | 35m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 12th Aug 2022 | |||
The first route here, with two possible finish options. Starts in the obvious crack in the east face, up onto the vibrating flake, then at the big old ring, a hard move to the right gets you onto the slab and into the traverse. From there, the original route leads up in the crack around the corner, but that finish was even eliminated from the guidebook in the later editions, because the other one is "easier" (but involves a rope tension downwards traverse into "Schwedenriss", so … well …). This original finish has been equipped with Bühler bolts and an anchor, also leading to confusion in the guidebooks. The crack might be a little harder than 5+ by today's standards, but still fun. All in all a great journey. Can be done in one pitch if the gear is properly extended.
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5+ | ★ Mauerblümchen - with Sergey | 8m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 4th Aug 2016 | |||
Could be better if it was about three times longer. Nice big jugs, but after scrambling up to the ledge it's only boulder length.
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5+ | ★ Gräfenberger Lindenbräu - with Guanta | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 7th Aug 2016 | |||
Nice stroll up the large flake.
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5+ | Unterzaunsbacher - with Teresa | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | Don't Bother | Sun 7th Aug 2016 | |||
Unnecessary line, only one bolt followed by a carabiner in a piece of rope for lower-off … not worth it. The climbing is okayish, but it's only 2 or 3 meters.
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5+ | ★★ Elliweg - with Daniel | 13m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Jun 2016 | |||
5+ | ★★ Nordostwand - with Bovist | 20m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 10th Mar 2021 | |||
Nice pocketed, vertical route, finds the easiest way up the wall.
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5+ | ★★ Leienfelser Verschneidung - with Heinz | 18m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Apr 2018 | |||
Pleasant dihedral climbing with a really nice, juggy boulder topout.
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5+ | ★ Zweischneid - with Martin | 10m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sun 22nd May 2016 | |||
5+ | ★ Armbrust - with Markus | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 22nd May 2016 | |||
5+ | ★★ Weiße Verschneidung - with KP | 30m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th May 2020 | |||
Classic line, easy up to the ledge, then a few steeper meters through the dihedral. Some blocks are loose, take care. Nice and long.
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5+ | ★ Faulpelz - with Teresa | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Apr 2018 | |||
Hard and quite polished start and runout from second to third bolt (maybe a rock tunnel broke here?), so maybe better clip the (new?) bolt probably belonging to the route to the right.
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5+ | ★★ Sonntagsverschneidung - with Bovist | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 28th Jun 2016 | |||
5+ | ★ Südwand - with Daniel | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 22nd Jun 2013 | |||
5+ | ★★ Rechter Ostpfeiler - with Daniel | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Sep 2013 | |||
5+ | ★ Ostkante - with mb | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 17th Jun 2023 | |||
Short, but enjoyable route along the arête. #jahreserste2023
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5+ | ★★ Alter Weg - with mb | 40m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Jun 2023 | |||
5+ | ★ Ostriss - with Teresa | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Fri 7th Jun 2019 | |||
Interesting passage out of the crack. The start is a bit awkward.
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5+ | ★★ Finken-Seppl-Weg - with monolith | 20m, 7 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Oct 2020 | |||
Nice wall climbing. The traverse into the original line from the first bolt of "Pippifax" is the hardest part. Great black rock in the top section.
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5+ | ★ Mondnavigation - with mantra, filo | 7m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Tue 7th May 2013 | ||||
5+ | ★ Boulderwandl - with mantra, filo | 12m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th May 2013 | |||
5+ | Alte Südwand - with Teresa | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 7th Mar 2015 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Pfeilerweg - with mantra, filo, thedark | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 4th May 2013 | ||||
5+ | ★ Südostkante - with mb | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 26th Aug 2022 | |||
Originally climbed as a variant of "Ostwand", this one obtained a direct start via two bolts, which is again the crux of the route. From the cave of "Ostwand" out left onto the arête and in good, enjoyable rock to the top (with a little overhang at the end, if you go directly).
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5+ | ★ Frühlingserwachen - with Daniel | 12m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 7th Oct 2015 | |||
5+ | ★ Spätzünder - with Daniel | 25m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 13th Aug 2016 | |||
Adventurous climbing through a chimney and a crack.
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5+ | ★ Ostwand - with Teresa | 12m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Oct 2015 | |||
5+ | ★ Oeder Platte - with Bovist | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 11th Jun 2020 | |||
Nice sunny slab into jungle adventure. Didn't find the peg in the vegetation after the second bolt and placed a small nut instead (not far away from the peg, as it turned out). Careful, thorns on the ledge! Climbed up in a direct line from the rusty bolt on the ledge instead of traversing further right to the easy crack.
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5+ | ★★ Sylvesterweg - with Teresa | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 6th Sep 2014 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Föhrenweg - with Teresa | 12m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 5th Jul 2014 | |||
5+ | ★ Linker Weg - with Teresa | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 16th Jul 2016 | |||
5+ | ★ Rechter Weg - with Teresa | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 16th Jul 2016 | |||
5+ | ★ Pfeiler - with Teresa | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | Sun 8th Jun 2014 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Dachl - with Teresa | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Aug 2014 | |||
5+ Hard | ★ Dülfer Gedenkkante - with Merlin | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 28th Feb 2024 | |||
Most people think this is harder, and it probably is because they're trying to climb straight up in the lower part. It's important to keep quite low and traverse to the right onto the actual dull arête instead. Still a bit athletic in the upper part.
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5+ | Südwestkante - with Bovist | 12m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Mon 28th Sep 2020 | |||
Quite polished, chossy especially after the last bolt.
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5+ | ★ Alte Südostwand - with Ellen | 23m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 30th Jul 2022 | |||
The first line here. Might look a little contrived from today's perspective, with the traverse and all, but it's probably really the easiest way up. Back in the day, it was also probably completely solid. Nowadays, the big flake in the traverse is vibrating quite heavily (this also applies to "Angst im Nacken", maybe this is where the name comes from?) and you shouldn't put too much load onto it, even though it's wedged in from the top. Otherwise great, easy climbing.
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5+ | ★ Gelbe Verschneidung - with Raimund | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 17th Dec 2022 | |||
Good dihedral, no idea why I hadn't climbed this yet. If only it was longer!
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5+ | ★ RSK2 - with KP | 35m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Nov 2019 | |||
Nice start over the pocketed bronze pillar, easy and beautiful crack/dihedral in the upper part. A nut after the second bolt doesn't hurt.
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5+ | ★★ R6 - with Daniel | 35m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Oct 2022 | |||
Splendid traverse below the bulges. Great rock structure, especially towards the end, and a comfy belay.
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5+ | ★★ Kleiner Bär - with Bovist | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Mon 1st Aug 2016 | |||
Nice moves on the wall and then a juggy finish in the overhang.
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5+ | ★ Merklriss - with Daniel | 25m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 8th Sep 2018 | |||
Nice crack line with good moves; a few bigger blocks are loose, take care. A little polished, but not too much. I actually wanted to climb the direct exit, but happened to get into the route "Harry Und Bobby Weg" … which was quite hard as a last route of the day.
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5+ | ★★ Pfeilerkante - with Harald | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 26th Jan 2018 | |||
Due to the polish, the first bolt is awkward to clip; the crux comes directly afterwards, from then on it's practically a pleasurable staircase.
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5+ | ★★ Säntisblick - with Bovist | 28m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Feb 2019 | |||
Turned out to be much better than anticipated. Shares the first third with "Schiefer Riss", then branches off into an interesting dihedral with lots of bridging and stemming.
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5+ | ★ Luderer Verschneidung - with David X | 30m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 1st Jan 2023 | |||
A little bold, looks quite scary from below, but turns out okay (if you take slings, there's a nice spike between the first and the second bolt and lots in the easy runout). Typical 5+ terrain for the crag.
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5+ | ★ Direkter Abenteurerweg (Abenteurerweg) - with Jenny | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 14th Feb 2018 | |||
Quite technical and adequately "adventurous", you need to climb away from the bolts quite a bit if you don't bring nuts or friends.
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5+ | Bergseite - with Teresa | 7m | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sat 20th Aug 2016 | |||
A bit dirty and a large hollow flake, also quite short.
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5+ | ★ Regentropfen - with Bovist | 20m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 27th Dec 2018 | |||
A bit contrived around the first bolt (much easier to the left), nice pockets in the upper part.
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5+ | ★★ Herbstweg - with Teresa | 14m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Sat 18th Apr 2015 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Nordkante - with Simon | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 10th Jul 2020 | |||
Short second pitch (I climbed it after "Osterhasenweg") with impeccable rock. Nice little arête.
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5+ | ★★ Südostkante - with KP | 40m | Frankenjura Süd | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Feb 2024 | |||
Beautiful crack line, although it's polished quite dramatically. Crack skills are essential, and even with those, it certainly feels harder than 5+. There's an intermediate anchor about two thirds up, but you can go all the way up, just make sure to avoid loose rock.
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5+ | ★★ Grashüpfer - with Martin | 15m | Frankenjura Süd | ★ Good | Thu 9th May 2013 | |||
5+ | ★★ Drachenwand - with Bovist | 28m, 12 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Mon 4th Mar 2019 | |||
Incredibly juggy and looong. Lots of bolts, too. Franken plaisir.
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5+ | ★★ Stachelriß - with Bovist | 30m, 7 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd Apr 2018 | |||
Awesome, natural line with sensible protection and a good flow; long, good rock, not yet polished, might be the best climb here.
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5+ | ★★ Herbstzeitlose - with Teresa | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 19th Jul 2014 | |||
5+ | ★★ Gut zu Vögeln - with Teresa | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | Fri 3rd Oct 2014 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Die Unbekannte - with Ellen | 22m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Jun 2019 | |||
Good layback moves in the upper part. #warmup
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5+ | Wartleitner Weg - with Bovist | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Don't Bother | Sat 28th Jul 2018 | |||
Vegetation to the first bolt, sand to the second bolt and the description says the big block of the last section is loose? Not exactly a highlight …
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5+ | ★★ Via Nereidi - with Teresa | 130m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Fri 25th Jul 2014 | |||
5+ | ★ Ach Vadder - with Teresa | 20m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sat 4th Jul 2015 | |||
5+ | Schmalwand - with mb | 7m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | Tue 30th Apr 2024 | ||||
5+ | Roßdacher Riss - with Harald | 13m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Fri 26th Jun 2020 | |||
The most obvious line here and a nice climb. Careful climbing is necessary, though; the bolts are quite spaced and there are lots of loose blocks.
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5+ | ★★ Mittlere Abseilwand - with Viola | 10m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Tue 28th Mar 2023 | ||||
5+ | ★ Westkante - with Viola | 6m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | Tue 28th Mar 2023 | ||||
5+ | R6 - with Teresa | 9m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | Average | Sun 27th Aug 2017 | |||
Short route on jugs.
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5+ | ★ R3 - with Bovist | 12m, 1 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 27th May 2018 | |||
Better than I expected it to be. The slings should be replaced in a while.
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5+ | Finkenweg - with David X | 10m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Sun 7th Mar 2021 | |||
Accidentally started higher up, it's not entirely clear where the routes begin. The start would be the same as for "Rabe Socke", though. Short, juggy dihedral.
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5+ | ★ Gugelhupf - with mb | 20m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ Very Good | Fri 25th Feb 2022 | |||
Looks just like a variant from below, but turns out to be a separate line, quite worthwhile and with the highest density of bolts of all routes on the wall (once you've reached the actual climb). #warmup
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5+ | ★ Großer Höhlenweg - with Bovist | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Thu 6th Apr 2023 | |||
5+ | Sachte sachte - with Teresa | 12m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | Don't Bother | Sun 14th Oct 2018 | |||
Would be better if there wasn't so much loose rock. Be careful, there's a huge block just waiting to be pulled down.
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5+ | ★ Nordwand - with Harald | 10m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Mon 13th Jun 2022 | |||
Quite solid layback climbing, one of the harder summits in the Frankenjura. Looks more intimidating than it is, though.
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5+ | ★ Herz Ass | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Wed 31st Mar 2021 | |||
Nice pocket climb with a little chimney section in the end.
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5+ | ★ Hein-Blöd-Kante - with Daniel | 20m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ Good | Tue 5th Jul 2016 |