Ascents by monolith having Trad CPR

The grade (7) was suggested by a carving on the start of the route on the rock. Very nice hand crack. A crack glove (with tape) was very useful.

With pre set quickdraws and some additional cams by Christoph Rauch.

Interesting climb with additional pre set protection from Christoph Rauch.

Seldomly do you get such a spectacular climb for this easy grade. Felt more like a 5- than a 5. The topo on frankenjura.com seems not correct, the topo from the old Schwertner seems more like the way to go. Start on the middle block to the first sling on the right wall with very easy moves. A bit up on the middle block you can place a head sling. From there you can either climb up on the block (what I did), clip the first bolt with leaning to the left, then traverse slightly over the bolt to the jammed block on very good holds or you can not climb up on the middle block but stay low (what Bovist chose), go into the chimney under the bolt, clip from there and traverse below the bolt to the jammed block. After walking or rather crawling over the jammed block you can clip the sling on the other side of the block and from there, standing up, you probably can clip the second bolt, on the right wall. If you are rather short like me, bringing a clipstick might be helpful there, as you don't want to fall on the jammed block, under the second bolt. (I clipped a quite unused quickdraw with the fixed side up, to reach the bolt from standing on the jammed block). From there a few nice, straight moves on good holds to the top. Then you will notice the 360 you just climbed.

After around 15m of tricky, exhausting crack climbing with lots of deep hand jamming, I got on the ledge and was almost shocked by the roof that presented itself over my head, which I underestimated from the ground. In this crux, to get into the second crack on the roof, I took two underclings, made a big kick with my left foot to a bomber foot hold, did a slightly drop knee, then quickly grabbed the crimps in the crack and witched myself up, while ignoring the mediocre, shallow two finger pocket on the right. Hard and rewarding.

Climbers on the slimmer side can start the chimney on the deepest end, where its the easiest. Very enjoyable chimney, over a jammed block, up to the prominent traverse, which was the crux of the pitch then. On a few crimps and smaller holes on okay foot holds to the left then. Gladly with provided super long toprope in a bolt of "Sarg"!

Climbed in two pitches. Not easy, relatively exposed route, alpine feeling.

With some pre set protection from Christoph Rauch and set another cam and sling on the way.

The crux in the upper part of the crack, with the side handle, was a nice bouldery move with a helpful hand jam for smaller hands below. From the exposed ledge, a few metres under the top, I needed to witch myself up. Seemed like a long reach for shorter climbers, so I grabbed two holds that seemed good enough and pulled myself up until my left foot could get on the ledge above. A bit wet on the last few metres from there.

In the chimney on the start, one needs to turn around at one point, what was a bit scary. Later in the chimney it got quite a bit slimey, because I ignored the flake on the left and went deeper into the green slime of darkness. Also my prusik sling got lost there probably. From the ring after the second pitch you get a taste of what the view from the top will be like. From there, the next pitch was a wonderful long climb with lots of good holds. Surprisingly, we were the first rope team in 2020 on the summit. The view from there to the Bastei is remarkable. If you look behind the Bastei you can also see the Nonne. On the way down, when I rappelled down the chimney from the double ring and through the right/upper crack from there, to get to the block of the first pitch, the rope got so stuck in the bottom of the chimney, that I had to crawl back through the crack and get the rope out. Later Christoph Rauch had the same problem when pulling off the rope and went back down the other way to get it out.

A pleasant end to the day in the fading light with full stomachs.

The wet traverse on the start from the plateau was a bit daring as it was slippery and the holds wet.

First big move on the slab on the start a bit reachy, but then a quick stroll to the top.

Easy and nice from start to finish, if you have no problem with the crimps on the start and a sloping boulder like top out.

Went up there to set up a toprope for "Der Bankster". Nice dihedral, which will (and can) be climbed free solo, if you don't bring some bigger cams. I placed a mediocre sling on the last few meters instead.

This first saxon climb reminded me to use my feet and to put my trust into the footholds on this grippy sandstone. In the hang on the first ring, I needed to find the good hold on the left. On the second rest on the crux, a few metres from top, I needed to find this slabby foothold and one mono on the right to stand up to the hourglass on the left.

I did the traverse after the start block totally different than others, 1-2m too high probably. Was really fun and a bit tricky this way.

Every pitch a dreamlike path to the next pitch. You don't want it to stop.

Nice and (even though so short) exhausting chimney, with some chicken wings and knee jams that is also climbable as a dihedral if one really hates (green wet) chimney scrubbing. Bolts of "Oh brother" can be used.

If the legs of the climber are too short, there is a need of a daring drop hands first from one brother to the other to get into the chimney. ("Hände hoch, das ist ein Überfall." -belayer). Getting into the chimney was the hardest part. Would say it's definitely again some classic 3+ ;-) chimney climbing. Smaller climbers have more fun in this one .

Long, steep scrambling to the start and then a few meters of climbing to the summit. Rapelled down as far as possible to avoid some of the steep terrain on the way back.

This route teached me a lesson or two. When it's cold, dark and water is drippling at you, Raketenriss is there and so are you.

Climbed up solo, rappelled down with rope delivered by Bovist