Ascensioni di Biafra come vari tipologie

Psyched, it goes

worked out beta for the top crux with gaston beta, lower section still requires some work

Very cool

Yup, not happening today. Too hot for the holds.

Attempted to climb with water sipping through some holds. Whom was I kidding??

Somehow managed to do the bottom half. Surprised myself. Wrong foot placement - could not grab the slot. Cost me a potential send which would have been unfair anyway as I don’t climb these grades yet let alone within one day. Can’t wait to come back!

First attempt of the grade. The beginning felt desperate. Worked all the moves. Got a tip how to do the crux using a tall person beta. Felt super easy

felt good - should go next shot

3 falls at the death today, despite the psych. Got fingers around edge of victory jug on final attempt

Need short person beta for first move!

Punt! This is turning into a bit of an epic

Beta is dialled but power and tension were definitely lacking today.

A fair few attempts over a couple visits. It always seems like the next shot will be the one and then it never is. I swear this next next shot this one will definitely go

Reopening the account after 12 months, a pandemic and record rains...

Links.

More links. My crux beta: RH gaston, with LF on the ticked edge, LH cross over to jug.

Popping on draws and trying out the moves - felt hard

Good bouldery moves down the bottom that I thought were cool. Wasnt too inspired by the crux, desperately bumping your foot up the wall isnt quite my idea of fun.

Suprised myself by getting to almost the 3rd bolt clean. Felt pretty confident on bouldery lower half, took a few goes to get a working beta for the crux - felt so desperate getting to that gaston. Really liking the deadpoints and body positions on this one.

Nearly got the send on my third try, but fell off the gaston when throwing left hand. Another character building session.

Amazing technical test piece. Stoked to unlock all the moves on the first session and find repeatable beta for the crux using a left hand cross over and body tension to hit the jug statically.

Draws up, working out beta

Amazing how all the moves go pretty well, but the crux when you're pumped is just impossible for me just yet, need more training for that...

First attempt, cruised until crux before jugs, then had to dog to anchors to apply liberal amounts of chalk and brushing to dry out the top section.

So close, got all the moves but foot slipped on first redpoint attempt then too tired to get it after. Will go.

This time I had to put the draws! Haha