Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 2nd Oct 2021 - Taunus | ||||||
Grauer Stein Westwand | ||||||
8- 8+ | ★★ Carla Kante - with Diana | 4 | ||||
I initially logged this as 7a+ but since everyone here seems to agree the guidebook grade isn't accurate at all and I was unsure as well, I will follow the consensus and only log this as 6c+.
|
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7- | ★★ Hard Rock Café - with Diana | 4 | ||||
Difficult start
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7 | ★★ Apache - with Diana | 3 | ||||
Difficult start
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6- | ★★ Pillar-Palle - with Diana | 2 | ||||
Wed 1st Sep 2021 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | ||||||
7- 8 | Toppler - with Diana | 2 | Average | |||
Extremely #morpho. If you aren't tall this may well be a 7a, but if you are it's exactly one move which isn't even that hard. My first 7a onsight would have been nice, but let's be real...
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Fri 13th Aug 2021 - Unteres Inntal | ||||||
Flintsbach Fliegenschiss | ||||||
7- | ★ Früchte der Saison - with Diana | 20m | ||||
4- | ★★ Schwer ist leicht was Variante - with Diana | |||||
6- | ★★ Steinlaus - with Diana | 18m | ||||
5 | ★ Pittsburg, Phil & Co. - with Diana | 20m | ||||
6- | ★ Miles Davis - with Diana | 20m | ||||
More polished than the easier neighbouring lines. Harder than 6- if climbed directly across the bolts.
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Thu 12th Aug 2021 - Morsbach | ||||||
Linker Teil | ||||||
5 | ★ Purple Love - with Diana | 15m | ||||
Nice but extremely beta-dependent and hard to onsight in my opinion. Grade 5 only if you manage to find the easiest way, going slightly left and right of the bolts.
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4+ | ★ Via Angela direkt - with Diana | 18m, 7 | ||||
Toprope service. #morpho at the small overhang. Harder than 4+ if you can't reach from the jug at the far left to the one at the far right.
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Wed 11th Aug 2021 - Ewige Jagdgründe | ||||||
Wig und Wam | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Mein Gott Walter (First Pitch) - with Diana | 20m | ||||
6b+ | ★★★ El Schuppo - with Diana | 16m, 10 | ||||
Pumpy but some okish rests to be found
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Wed 11th Aug 2021 - Ewige Jagdgründe | ||||||
Wächter | ||||||
4b | ★ Walter - with Diana | 17m, 7 | ||||
6a | ★ Plattenkante - with Diana | 12m, 6 | ||||
Tue 10th Aug 2021 - Ewige Jagdgründe | ||||||
Wig und Wam | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Streamer - with Diana | 10m | ||||
5b | ★ Goldköpfl - with Diana | 10m | ||||
6a | ★ Pfrille - with Diana | 10m | Average | |||
Strange line, no anchor.
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5c | ★★ Lisa Links - with Diana | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice line, too bad almost every crack was mossy and/or wet and there was a puddle directly at the start.
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Tue 10th Aug 2021 - Ewige Jagdgründe | ||||||
Wächter | ||||||
6a | ★ Die Kurze - with Diana | 10m | ||||
6a | ★★ Tettino - with Diana | 15m | ||||
Unexpectedly, the crux for me wasn't the overhang but the slab directly underneath it. Felt harder than 6a.
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Tue 10th Aug 2021 - Ewige Jagdgründe | ||||||
Häuptling | ||||||
5a | ★★ Tomahawk - with Diana | 15m | ||||
5a | ★ Plattl - with Diana | 17m | ||||
Also did the unknown line left of Plattl which has a similar grade I would say
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Mon 9th Aug 2021 - Mayrhofen | ||||||
Klettergarten Himmelsleiter | ||||||
4 | ★ Zerggl und Milch - with Diana | 8m | ||||
4 | ★ Moarhofa Ruachn - with Diana | 8m, 7 | ||||
5b | ★ Via Hosal - with Diana | 12m, 8 | ||||
4 | ★★ Wurzelfieber - with Diana | 12m | ||||
3 | ★ Melcha Muas - with Diana | 7m | ||||
5a | ★★ Burgstaller Schwoass - with Diana | 8m | ||||
Sun 8th Aug 2021 - Wilder Kaiser | ||||||
Kleine Halt Nordwestwand-Sockel | ||||||
3 |
Weiße Spur
- with
Diana
1
3-
20m
2
2
25m
3
2-
33m
4
3
45m
5
1
80m
6
3-
20m
7
3-
18m
| 240m, 27 | Average | |||
Many of the slabs were still wet. Therefore we went off into our own variation somewhere during pitch 7 and didn't bother putting on rope and climbing shoes only for the last pitch (the only one that really forces you to climb slab). Overall, not worth the long approach if you don't combine it with something else imo.
|
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Sat 12th Jun 2021 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | ||||||
6+ | Restekante - with Diana | 4 | Average | |||
Starts out nice then becomes dirty choss
|
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6 | Homunkulus - with Diana | 3 | ||||
6- | ★ Die Hutzen und die Dutzen - with Diana | 3 | ★ Good | |||
Fun 3D moves in the small overhang
|
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Thu 20th May 2021 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | ||||||
4- | Wurzel-Rampen-Verschneidung - with Diana | Don't Bother | ||||
Meh
|
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5- | Ostwandpfeiler - with Diana | 1 | Average | |||
To reach the anchor I first went left, then right, then even further left and tried to traverse back. In the end the only way I could do it remotely in the area of grade 5 was using the tree. Now back at home and looking at the database of Pfaelzer Kletterer I realize: This is exactly the intended way!
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7- | ★ Vertical Beach - with Diana | 3 | ★ Good | |||
Not as sandy as the name suggests. Not more than everything else in Annaberg at least. However one jug that was also chalked up still from someone elses go made terrible aching noises and I did not dare pull on it fearing that I might rip the whole thing out. Still, one of the nicer routes I've done here so far.
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Fri 14th May 2021 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | ||||||
6+ | Der Fönig - with Diana | 3 | ||||
4 | Kurze Tour mit langem Namen - with Diana | 2 | ||||
5- | Große Ostwand - with Diana | 2 | ||||
3 | Schicke Schuppe - with Diana | 1 | ||||
5 | Putzen statt Bohren - with Diana | 1 | ||||
Sun 11th Apr 2021 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Lindenberger Steinbruch | ||||||
5+ | ★ Lindenritter - with Diana | 2 | ||||
And then it rained again
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Sat 10th Apr 2021 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Lindenberger Steinbruch | ||||||
4 | ★ Lianenverschneidung - with Diana | |||||
5 | ★★ Lindenberger Verschneidung - with Diana | |||||
5 | ★★ Doppelriss - with Diana | |||||
Thu 1st Apr 2021 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Treppe | ||||||
6- | ★ Fliegender Kühlschrank - with Diana | 20m, 5 | ||||
6- | ★★ Allgäu - with Diana | 6 | ||||
6- | ★ Krümelmonster - with Diana | 6 | ||||
5- | ★★ Goldener Oktober - with Diana | 9 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Opa's Oistieg - with Diana | 5 | ||||
Sun 13th Sep 2020 - Plombergstein | ||||||
Kriegerdenkmal | ||||||
5- | ★★ Juniperus - with Diana | 160m | ||||
Sat 12th Sep 2020 - Plombergstein | ||||||
Kriegerdenkmal | ||||||
5+ | ★★★ Flipperl - with Diana | 170m | ||||
The crux consists of artificial holds and seemed easier than 5+ to me, maybe more like 5-? Climbing the slab without any of the manufactured holds on the other hand is likely harder than 5+.
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Fri 11th Sep 2020 - Plombergstein | ||||||
Gamswand | ||||||
5- | ★ Hasipfeiler - with Diana | 160m | Don't Bother | |||
Lots of vegetation... We combined pitches 2&3 and 4&5.
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Thu 10th Sep 2020 - Sistiana - Sesljan | ||||||
Bunker | ||||||
6a | ★★ Amici Comici - with Diana | |||||
6a | ★★ Comici dx - with Diana | 20m | ||||
Thu 10th Sep 2020 - Sistiana - Sesljan | ||||||
Panza del Mus | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Nel blu... - with Diana | 25m | ||||
I like slabs. I've climbed a supposed 7a slab and several ones in higher grades than this one. This felt like the hardest slab I've ever climbed. Either I completely missed the beta or it's very hard for the grade. Apart from that, mostly nice. Kinda polished like everything here.
|
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Mon 7th Sep 2020 - Sistiana - Sesljan | ||||||
Panza del Mus | ||||||
5b | ★★ Classica - with Diana | 25m | ||||
6a | ★ Questione di feeling - with Diana | 25m | ||||
Mon 7th Sep 2020 - Santa Croce Area | ||||||
Santa Croce S3 | ||||||
5a 6a | ★★ No Name 18 - with Diana | 8m | ||||
The routes here don't make sense. I'm ticking this for the left most route on the right most sector, which in my topo is a 5a.
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6b | ★★ No Name 19 - with Diana | 6m | ||||
Sun 5th Jul 2020 - Zahmer Kaiser | ||||||
Heimköpfl | ||||||
6 | Rauhfuss - with Diana | 20m | ||||
8- | Perpetuum Mobile - with Diana | 20m | ||||
Huh?
|
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Sat 27th Jun 2020 - Morsbach | ||||||
Mittlerer Teil | ||||||
3+ 4 | ★ Zustieg zur Terrasse - with Tim | 28m, 8 | Average | |||
Strange variation with the traverse below the overhang
|
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Sat 27th Jun 2020 - Morsbach | ||||||
Linker Teil | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Mini-Flipp - with Tim | 20m, 6 | ||||
Sat 13th Jun 2020 - Roßstein und Buchstein | ||||||
Roßstein Südwand | ||||||
5+ | Übungsroute right exit - with Diana | 6m, 2 | Average | |||
polished, strange beta
|
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4 | Übungsroute left exit - with Diana | 6m | Don't Bother | |||
Wed 20th May 2020 - Nordschwarzwald | ||||||
Nagoldtal Amphitheater | ||||||
6+ 7- | ★ Der durstige Mann - with Diana | 8m, 4 | ||||
Hard to see the crucial feet when going onto the slab.
|
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5+ 6- | ★★ Achterbahn - with Diana | 8m, 3 | ||||
5+ only if you are tall and can reach to some of the better holds
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7 | ★ Eskimo + Schmetterling - with Diana | 10m, 4 | ||||
5 4+ | ★ Murkels - with Diana | 9m, 3 | ||||
5 | ★★ Schiefer Riss - with Diana | 9m, 3 | ||||
5 6+ | ★★ Supermamika - with Diana | 9m, 3 | ||||
This felt a lot easier than 6+, no idea what I did wrong?
|
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Sat 16th May 2020 - Oberbessenbach | ||||||
6- | Platte - with Diana | 2 | ||||
The tiniest 'slab' you could imagine. One move wonder for tall people.
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5 | ★★ Urbi et orbi - with Diana | |||||
4 | ★ Da müssen wir hoch - with Diana | 4 | ||||
Harder for smaller climbers
|
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4+ | Mona goes to USA - with Diana | 4 | ||||
7 | Wand - with Diana | 3 | ||||
3 | Rinne - with Diana | |||||
Sat 2nd May 2020 - Frankenjura Süd | ||||||
Klettersteinbruch Möhren | ||||||
6- | ★ Fünf auf einen Streich - with Diana | |||||
5+ | Autobombe - with Diana | |||||
Sun 26th Apr 2020 - Oberammergau | ||||||
Frauenwasserl Frauenwasserl | ||||||
5 |
★★ Do schau her (Do schau her P1)
- with
Diana
| 35m | ||||
Pretty stiff for a 5...
|
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4 | ★★ Normalweg - with Diana | 70m | ||||
Sun 19th Apr 2020 - Bad Heilbrunn | ||||||
Turm | ||||||
4- | Rampenkneifer - with Diana | 15m | ||||
4+ | ★ Weberknecht-Verschneidung - with Diana | 15m | ||||
Surprisingly uncomfortable
|
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5 | Hasse-Riss - with Diana | 6m, 2 | ||||
7 | ★★★ Nasendach - with Diana | 8m, 2 | ||||
Two-move-wonder. Easier, the better you can reach for the jug rail.
|
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Sun 19th Apr 2020 - Bad Heilbrunn | ||||||
Oberer Sektor | ||||||
6- | ★ Dschungelpfad - with Diana | 22m | ||||
Sun 19th Apr 2020 - Bad Heilbrunn | ||||||
Große Platte | ||||||
6- | ★★ Direkte Peterplatte - with Diana | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rope drag is manageable despite the bolt positions since there are so few Get's a lot easier after the last bolt but you wouldn't wanna fall and slide down the slab from there...
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Sun 5th Apr 2020 - Lenninger Alb | ||||||
Neuffener Parkplatzfelsen Fels 1 | ||||||
4- | ★ Kamin - with Diana | 20m, 5 | ||||
Wanted to do 'Rechte Platte' but forgot to go left. Everything at the right ('Platte') clearly looked too hard for a 6- so I went for the chimney...
|
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5 | Pfeilerriss - with Diana | 20m, 3 | ||||
Kinda hard when you don't actually climb it as a crack
|
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Sat 4th Apr 2020 - Taunus | ||||||
Grauer Stein Ostwand | ||||||
3 | ★★ Steingarten - with Diana | 6 | ||||
4 | ★★ Parkplatzriss - with Diana | 5 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Dachvariante - with Diana | 5 | ||||
Sat 28th Mar 2020 - Taubenstein | ||||||
Westwand | ||||||
3 | Südflanke - with Diana | 50m | ||||
3 | ★★ Südwestgrat - with Diana | 150m | ||||
4+ | Frankfurter Weg - with Diana | 30m | ||||
Sun 15th Mar 2020 - Unteres Inntal | ||||||
Kindlwand | ||||||
6+ |
Westgrat
- with
Diana
1
5-
30m
lead by
Diana
2
6+
25m
lead by
mivi
3
3
60m
lead by
Diana
4
1
55m
lead by
mivi
5
3-
55m
lead by
Diana
6
1-
55m
lead by
mivi
| 280m | Don't Bother | |||
Loose rock throughout, including the crux. Potential for significant rope drag in the later pitches.
|
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Mon 17th Feb 2020 - Oetz | ||||||
Hauptsektor | ||||||
6a | ★★ Linke Wand - with Diana | 20m | ||||
5a 5c | ★ David (Mittlere Wand) - with Diana | 10m, 5 |