Routes in Albany for selected grade

Climb the arete and left face. A tricky start leads to great climbing and a slightly daunting top-out.

Start at the thin crack and traverse rightwards to finish at Mongrel. Great slab climbing on sharp holds with a sting in the tail.

Stand start the face and up avoiding the aretes. Dont fall onto the road and get squashed.

Difficult moves off the deck then sustained climbing up the runnel. Has been top roped.

Stand start.

Sit start at the base of the obvious overhanging prow. Slap up to glory and an easy top out. Short and sweet - an instant classic!

Sit start with the obvious fins at the base of the arete. Up and rightish with the arete and holds in the overhang. Avoid dabbing the tree on the topout! Fun moves and a bit of tension.

Stand start on obvious rail jug. Mantle to stand on the rail then a tricky topout!

Low start matched on the flake. Jam a right heel and make desperate moves to gain the slab. https://youtu.be/40AvCuE1R6c?t=50s

Sit start with good flake, long move to the sloper to topout. Cool feature! https://vimeo.com/126374382

Stand start, up the obvious crack.

Stand start. Up the slabbiest section of the boulder. Gets thin up high! https://youtu.be/hnhmankwUhs?t=90

Sit start on the right with right hand on obvious arete pinch. The original sitter. Adds a couple of harder moves on small holds.

Located on the back of the pinnacle boulder. SDS. A great dyno with few options to start, traverse into the big flake from either the left or the right then do a big move up and left to a good edge.

https://youtu.be/40AvCuE1R6c?t=1m34s

Sit start in the crack. Up the slopey bulges to topout straight up.

Stand start on crimps. Smear and mantle your way up the arete and onto the slab..

Stand start with crimps on the arete. Trend right up the obvious rail. You will like this one.

Sit start on opposing jugs on the far right (right side pull, left hand flat jug) take the rising traverse left to top out through the obvious juggy flake. https://vimeo.com/314673203

Stand start on flat rail. Campus start and up and left. Tall.

Stand start with right hand undercling and left hand jug.

Stand start with crimp on the face.

Sit start as 'War Zone' but use the kickboard for feet.

Stand start on obvious crimp up high on the face. Up to the lip. If you are shorter it will be a jump start and closer to V3.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odNp6mmIgkk

The sit start. Kinda awkward...

Sit start as for 'Deception' on the two obvious holds. Move out right and top out compressing the two crack.

Sit start down low in the hole. Up the obvious crack. Highball with an awkward landing

Sit start as for 'Hung Parliament' then traverse right to finish as 'Chairman Mao'

Sit start with left hand undercling and up staying on the right face. Tricky/

Start matching on the squarish, pinch/crimp plate in the middle of the wall, opposite 'Delicate Dance'. Make a shouldery move up and right to the obvious sharp crimp, then launch directly up to the lip and top out. The landing for the final move is a bit sketchy.

Sit start as for 'The Ghost of John Reddin', but instead of going left to the crimp plate make a big move up and right directly to a good crimp.

Sort of a sit start with the left hand low on the arete with left heel hook and right hand jug.

Awkward sit start on obvious flake, up to the jug then you may as well traverse right for a few moves.

Eliminate and contrived but fun if done in the right spirit.

Start with both hands matched on undercling up with powerful moves eliminating the side wall and underclings on the left. Tricky.

Located on the waterside boulder and best tried on low tide/swell. Sit start in cave on obvious rail, traverse right into a pumpy layback sequence that leads to jugs. Rad!

A bit contrived but good. Stand start on the layback flake. A bit of a move out right then straight up avoiding the obvious huge flat jug on the arete.

Sit start in compression. One powerful move into the good jug. Up into the stand. Avoid the boulders on either side.

Sit start, up flake/crack.

Sit start matched on the bulge with a right heel or toe. Two tricky moves into a cruisy top. Close to the drink!

Sit start with slopey crack and up. Tricky and awkward. Avoid dabbing the boulder to the right.

Sit start as far left as you can. Traverse the slopey lip. For full value traverse all the way around the corner and top out as for 'Intersection'

Bit of an awkward sit start with left hand in the diagonal crack and low (really low!) right hand side pull. Traverse right to finish as for ‘Scratching The Surface’

Sit start with slopey holds. Jam a right knee bar in and up to good holds.

Sit start with crimps. Up to long move to jugs. https://youtu.be/JSo3rLyi-t0?t=58

. Sit start with crimps then traverse left into some wide moves at the vague blunt arête. Top out easily far left.

Sit start Right hand side pull left hand good crimp. Awkward.

Stand start with positive hold on the arete and up...

Sit start and up.

Start as ‘Double Roof’ but escape right to an awkward mantle onto the small ledge.

Sit start matched on the bottom of the diagonal crimp rail with poor smears for feet. Tricky moves into the easy stand. https://youtu.be/iA9oNywPd7U?t=228

Stand start on the break avoiding the jugs to the right and bust straight to the break direct up the tip of prow (escaping up the face on the right get you a V2). Problem @ ~7:30 https://vimeo.com/125747074

Sit start at the base of the triangular feature. Straight up into a heady top out.

Stand start using left hand sloper and right hand crimp. Up through the feature and throw to the jug. Easy top out to left.

Sit start with the arete and right face. Weird off balance first move. Finish directly up as for ‘The Windmill’.

Sit start under the slightly overhanging face. Up using the obvious flake system and a kinda mono. Close to the drink - needs a low swell/tide - watch out for king waves!

Sit start low on sidepull feature and up slot ledges and round crimps, utilising crack techniques may prove useful.

Nice movement, Falling is inadvisable.

Sit start on the obvious slopey feature with a left heel. Tricky moves up and right to gain the jugs.

Sit start matching on rail. Big move to the lip and top out.

As for Underclings but instead of topping out to the right, do a long move to the left arete and finish up the middle of the boulder.

Sit start on low hold then up the jugs/underclings.

Left hand pocket, right hand undercling, launch.

Sit start, then tricky moves to gain the high break (avoid dabbing the rocks to the left). Stand done by J Nevin in the early 2000s

Sit start. Low left hand on good edge and right and sloper. Pretty awkward...

Sit start with obvious fin and straight up. One mover

Sit start way down low with left hand pocket and right hand undercling- follow the slopey ripples up the face. Rad. The big flake out left is in for feet. https://youtu.be/KwLzohGPYeQ?t=41s

Sit start on low flake up the face to jugs. Full value for starting low under the flake.

Stand start, up the obvious groove.

Stand start

Stand start at the obvious tear drop feature at the far left of the wall.

Sit.

Tricky line on the right of the face.

Barely independant from Forgotten Arts yet climbs very differently. Stand start left hand sidepull on the face and right hand on the sloper at head height. Compression moves on crimps up the prow lead to an obvious slot on the right hand face followed by easy moves to the top.

Standing start, then onto the flake and up the face too the horizontal crack. No side wall

Limestone roof that is somehow solid enough to climb. Start in the back before the ramp on low jugs. Fun sequence out of the cave if climbed in the right spirit.

Sit start in claustrophobic hole, avoiding the dabs. Up the edges on the slightly overhung face.

Sit start on good holds, shoulder up to flake then long move out right to escape up the right arete.

Sit start with flat hold. Campus to crimp then up to jug and an easy top.

Sit start low on the lower break. Up the left corner with slopers and the flake.

Sit start on the lower break. Head straight up with a long move to the lip to finish.

Sit start with the lower break, stay between the two vertical crack.

Sit start as for 'Being Sane in Insane Places' but instead of traversing left top out straight up.

Sit start with the good crimp. Jugs out right are in.

Start on the left and traverse the flake right then straight up.

A powerful line capturing the full atmosphere of the Gap. Start on same wave-washed ledge as for Welsh corner or two meters up on hanging belay. Climb the right trending lay-back flake which turns into a corner crack that in turn leads over a 1.5m roof(crux). The elephant tusk 4m above the roof offers a good no-hand rest necessary to tackle the spicy finish - a 7m off-width body crack.

Sit start. Up the flared crack.

Stand start. Work your way up the delicate slab with tricky feet.

Start slightly right of 'Lost at Sea' (avoid using the inward facing rail). Thin.

High and terrifying. Sit start and then come out left onto the face into a terrifying ending.

Stand start. Up the right face. Scary up high...

Sit start on the right. Straight up with weird moves.

Variant: sit start on the flake on the left

Start as for ‘Party Pooper’ traverse left and around the corner into the slab and traverse the slab to top out on the far left corner as for ‘Port’. The lip is out for the traverse until you link into port. Contrived, but good for training slab..

sit start right hand on the slopey crimp and left on the low bulge on the arete, gain the jug and top directly up with a mantle and a big slap avoiding the left arete. Can be linked into the other existing climbs

Sit start with high left hand on the arete and right hand pinch then slap your way up. Classic! https://youtu.be/z6O06yvfO5Y?t=11

Start the same as Spectator Sports, traverse right to the jug and finish at the top of Shirt Dab.

Sit start with left palming down and feet out right. Just press up and grab the lip, then traverse and finish left. Silly stuff, if you're tall its not even a problem.

Fun variant was done by starting in a handstand, step your hands up onto the boulder, then rotate around like a clock and once upright again, finish as normal.

Sit start in the middle of the face. Trust your feet on the way up.