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Routes in The Pharos and Surrounds for selected grade

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Showing all 9 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The Pharos Uncle Charlie
28 Ciela

Really fun arete slapping. Please do not climb this route during nesting season (August to December). Start beneath the hanging nose.

FA: Uwe Eder & Axl Krapf, 1995

Mixed trad 15m, 3
28 India

An amazing line through some steep bulges. It will work your shoulders and test your footwork as you try to unlock its hidden secrets.

Start on the R side of the awe inspiring blank bulging orange face. Up crack before stepping left into the difficulties. Finishes out right up easier ground to DRB.

Notable for an early send by Christine Gambert (FR) in 1986, when it was 29, likely the first female ascent at either grade in AU. Was also the first route in AU given grade 29, originally done by stepping L higher than is now the norm, but has slipped to 28.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1982

Trad 25m
28 The Great Escape

Climb directly into Escape without bridging.

FA: Mike Weeks, 1998

Mixed trad 20m, 4
The Pharos Back Wall
28 Slopin' Sleazin'

Pure face climbing funkness. Originally graded 25 and worked on via some very dubious gear. Climbs the crazy groove 10m R of Lamplighter past 4 ringbolts to a DRB anchor. Super technical and sustained, with a variety of options available for undertaking the crux, none of them particularly a giveaway! Unconventional and classic moves make this one of the best routes at Arapiles.

FA: Mike Law, 1983

Sport 15m, 4
28 Give Me Convenience or Give Me Death

Climb 'Shivers' until the 'Judgement Day' traverse line, then head straight up through the roof (bolt) and follow the seam, joining Shivers' 2nd pitch near the top.

Start: Start as for 'Shivers'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2005

Mixed trad 30m, 3
Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area
28 Free Fingers

Desperate.

Start as for "Spellbinder".

Go up Spellbinder for 8 metres to ledge. Move right, up short, left-facing corner and over bulge to bolt (#4RP placement en-route). Move right again then up to easier climbing. rap as for Spellbinder

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

Mixed trad 20m, 1
Yesterday Gully Upper Gully
28 Yesterday Direct Direct

Excellent sustained face that adds a hard start to 'Yesterday Direct'.

Start just right of Yesterday and climb past a fixed hanger to join 'Yesterday Direct', which continues up via two ringbolts to join 'Yesterday'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2001

Mixed trad 25m, 3
28 Use No Chooks

Stick-clip bolt, climb tricky start and straight up past several more FHs. Start about 12 metres right of Yesterday

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Mixed trad 20m, 4
Pharos Boulders Finalgon Boulder
V7 Finalgon

Left to right traverse. Optional sit start adds value but doesn't change grade.

Boulder

Showing all 9 routes.

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