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The Watchtower Faces
One of the most impressive sheer walls at the mountain. Contains many three star multi-pitch classics - some of the best routes Arapiles has to offer. Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, The Watchtower Faces Area |
Pinnacle Face
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pinnacle Face / Tip Toe Ridge Area |
Pinnacle Face |
Wedding Tackle Area
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pinnacle Face / Tip Toe Ridge Area |
Pinnacle Face Wedding Tackle Area |
9
Kermit
Nice line and rock but still a little shrubby. From the top of this it is a short scramble to the base of 'Mentor' so Kermit/Mentor/The Protege could provide an interesting outing. Start: Start 30 m L of 'Wedding Tackle'. |
16
Wedding Tackle
From left gain faint groove which slants up left |
16
Earthly Pleasures
Start at very toe of buttress, a few metres right of 'Wedding Tackle'. Climb to prow to finish direct. |
14
Lusts of the Flesh
Seam 1-2 metres right of 'Earthly Pleasures'. |
14
★ Carnal Intent
Crack through bulge just right of Lusts Of The Flesh. |
10
Identifying Bill Clinton
Start: Line R of 'Carnal Intent'. |
16
Another Chelsea Morning
Face between 'Identifying Bill Clinton' and Hillary's Dog |
13
Hillary's Dog
Start: Short line R of IBC. |
Furphy Wall
Little wall sitting above Wedding Tackle buttress. |
20
★ Rumour
At left end of low cave, line leads to small roof. Up right to finishing groove. |
16
Scuttlebutt
Line 4 metres right of 'Rumour'. Pull on to white bloc; up and left |
20
★★ Furphy
Aesthetic thin crack 3 metres right of 'Scuttlebutt'. |
23
★ Inextricably
Steep crack 4 metres right of 'Furphy' and left of gully. |
12
Mentor
Maybe worthwhile as an approach for 'The Protege'. The obvious chimney which appears to lead directly into The Protege when viewed from near Uncle Charlie. Approach past the left end of the Furphy Wall, Climb the chimney to the roof. Step right and bridge up the continuation. |
7
Spare Rib
Climb the front of the clean rib about 12m left of Wedding Tackle. |
Pinnacle Face |
Tiptoe Ridge Area
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pinnacle Face / Tip Toe Ridge Area |
Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area |
13
★★ Golden Apples
In honour of the pioneers who first explored this territory 50 years ago. Named in honour of the golden anniversary, Aphrodite’s golden apples and The Slot’s nearby ‘orange bowl’. Takes the big wall centrally, to the left of Aphrodite and The Green Singer. Much better than appearances suggest,with an unusual variety of rock and climbing, and a robust top pitch that looks pretty daunting from the ground. Start as for The Green Singer.
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14
★ The Green Singer
Dedicated to John Shaw Neilson, Australia's finest lyric poet. From the top of this climb much of Neilson's country is spread out in clear view to the northwest. Fairly good climbing though the rock low on the second pitch is not the best. Worth a go if you're tired of Bard and all the Mount's other classics. Start: Start L of 'Aphrodite' (itself not written up!).
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10
★ Aphrodite
A slightly bold first pitch and an exhilirating finish. Start: The face just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress is marked by the deep chasm of 'The Slot'. Start directly below this chasm.
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11
★ The Slot
An old-fashioned route. Start below the chasm just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle, as for 'Aphrodite'.
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13
Tiptoe Corner
Contrived. Start a bit right of 'The Slot' at foot of big chimney-corner formed by the main wall and the Tiptoe pinnacle. Up chimney to eventually join 'Tiptoe Ridge'. |
23
No Buts
Follow 'Tiptoe Corner' to crack left of Next Of Kin. Pull over bulge, heading left to break. Above small roof, climb straight up face. |
23 R
★ Next of Kin
Follow the chimney of 'Tiptoe Corner' for 15 metres and step onto the face at the first of two diagonal cracks. Up right to below flakes, then straight up these, exiting right over roof. |
22
★ Consenting Adults
Follow 'Moonlighting' for 10 metres, traverse easily left to below smooth wall. Up wall via break and bulge to pod. Up pod and around roof. |
12
Moonlighting
From start of 'Tiptoe Ridge', take left-leaning grey diagonal then step right to short right-facing orange corner on right arete of south face. There are some loose blocks. |
★★ Hips Don't Lie
A squeeze test at the top of Tiptoe Ridge. Lay down and shuffle through the horizontal crack. |
5
★★★ Tiptoe Ridge
An alpine-flavoured adventure that surely ranks as one of the finest routes of its grade in the world Start: Left of the prominent ridge is a large terrace. Approach from below and to the left.
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Pinnacle Face |
Area Below Tiptoe Ridge
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pinnacle Face / Tip Toe Ridge Area |
Pinnacle Face Area Below Tiptoe Ridge |
18
Through the Tulips
Up slab to roof and through. Start: Starts where slab is steepest just right of No Charlie. |
4
No Charlie, It Wasn't
Left edge of left wall of alcove. |
8
Beer and Trembling
Middle of left wall into shallow corner. Exit left |
8
Falling Numbers
Bridge up groove at back of alcove, swing left onto large flake. |
18
★ Free Beer
"You can lead them to free beer but you can't make them climb." Greg might have more takers if the free beer was kept until after the climbing. |
12
Chookfest 93
Little corner 1 metre right of 'Free Beer' to roof then up slab. |
8
★ Tiptoe Ridge Direct Start
Obvious left diagonal to thin crack |
18
★ Pritchard The Almost Unstoppable New Route Machine
Start at 'Tiptoe Ridge' DS, but take short, wide right-leading diagonal through bulge. |
18
Father Figure
The short orange wall just left of Bossy Mothers eases quickly (stay R of the loose juggy line). Easier climbing then continues up the pleasant slabby grey wall above. At the top move over R to the anchors above Bossy Mothers. |
20
★ Bossy Mothers
Reachy start to gain crack which maintains its interest. |
23
★ Just Out of Habit
Start left of arch and move up and right to finish up grey streak to 'Bossy Mothers' anchor. |
20
Cruella de Ville
Thin rightward leading seam right of Just Out Of Habit. |
15
His Master's Vice
Scramble up right of Cruella De Ville and follow line just right of it. Move left uner overhang to easier finishing crack. |
16
Llama Sutra
Climb middle of very small south-facing wall of subsidiary pinnacle behind dead tree. |
16
★ PearI Jam
Crack, curving left to exit on orange, north-facing wall. |
19
Let Them Eat Ralph
Wall 1 metre right of Pearl Jam, right, up back left above Pearl Jam. |
6
★ Ordinary Trees
"The climbers were so thick they were like ordinary trees". Good to do if the other routes are busy though there could be a bottleneck on the last pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'. Start: Start below big right-facing corner system.
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5
★★ Introductory Route
The first recorded route at 'Arapiles'. The original route wandered around a lot more than the route as described here. It is fairly safe to say that all of the rock between 'Siren' and 'Ordinary Trees' has been climbed. Start: Start on the right side of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.
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13
Barren Waste
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity. State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive). |
Pinnacle Face |
Siren Area
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pinnacle Face / Tip Toe Ridge Area |
Pinnacle Face Siren Area |
12
Artemis
Starts at Siren’s first belay.
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9
★★★ Siren
A wonderful long classic, climbed at the same time as Introductory Route. A remarkably well-conceived line, it culminates in a magnificent final corner. Start as for Introductory Route, on the right side of the Tiptoe Ridge buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.
From here either walk off left along terrace and scramble up little gully and wall to top or climb little right-facing corner just left of final belay. This is grade 11. |
12
★★★ Siren Direct Finish
Definitely the best way to climb Siren, especially as it only has one move at grade 12 and creates one of the best easy corner pitches anywhere!
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15
★ Siren Left Wall
The left wall of the 'Siren' corner is very obvious but is not quite as good as it looks. The old bolts need replacing. |
10
★★ Xena
Start: Start at the right edge of the Pinnacle face below right-leaning flake/crack, about 10 metres right of 'Siren'.
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18
★★ Tales of Brave Ulysses
A good finishing pitch. Often done as a finish to 'Creon' but can be easily reached via the ledge system the crosses the face at 60 metres. |
9
★★ Tauraroa
Follows the chimney-corner bounding the left edge of the left Watchtower face after starting up Hot Flap's first pitch, then the chimney-gully forming the left side of the Siren buttress. |
Left Watchtower Face
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, The Watchtower Faces Area |
Left Watchtower Face |
5
Rotten Row
Not really a climb, just an escape route. The diagonal ramp leading right from the base of the 'Siren' corner. |
19
★ Argonauts
Nice pitch high on the face. |
18 R
Roll Dem Bones
Good 2nd pitch with bold and committing crux well out from gear. (A couple of grades have been added to allow for this.) 'Hot Flap Direct Start' might be a better start than the current first pitch. Take doubles of all cams to #2 1/2 and three #2 TCUs or equivalent. Start as for 'Hot Flap', below the flake marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.
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14 R
★★ Hot Flap
Protection is generally reasonable but pitch 2 is sparsely protected. Start below the right-leaning flake that leads into the chimney marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.
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17
Tauraroa Direct Start
A logical but not very appealing start. |
16 R
★★ Hot Flap Direct Start
This obvious start to 'Hot Flap' is well protected at the hardest point but then has a long runout on mossy rock. Still worth a star though. |
16 R
Between the Lines
An interesting exploration that is superseded by other climbs. |
18 R
Sang Froid
Marginal protection on first pitch. Both this pitch and the its next-door neighbour 'Puppet' On A String are very good pitches but possibly the most serious of their grades at 'Arapiles'. Still not sure if they deserve the skull-and-crossbones (have taken them off this climb) but they are very serious. Peter Watling accidentally climbed this pitch in the 70's thinking it was 'Hot Flap' Direct Start!
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18 X
Puppet on a String
Another pitch in a similar vein to 'Sang Froid', possibly the scarier of the two. 'Argonauts' makes a good finish. |
18
★★ Creon - Tales of Brave Ulysses
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17
★★ Creon
A good climb all of the way. Finishing up Tales Of Brave Ulysses makes it even better. Start on a platform below a seam about 30 metres right of the left edge of the face and 20 metres left of a deep line (Driftwood).
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★★ New Route (name coming soon))
Start as for C/OR but continue straight up mossy wall where they go left and right. We continued straight up and then through Hot Flap. Could do with a clean up. |
17 R
★★ Oedipus Rex
Good long climb but the middle section is nothing special. Start on a platform below a seam about 30 metres right of the left edge of the face and 20 metres left of a deep line (Driftwood).
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20
★ Oedipal Wrecks
Not a bad start. Reasonable, if fiddly gear. |
16 R
★ Home of the Brave
Good climbing with only a short section of nondescript ground at the start of the second pitch. There are some dangerous detached blocks/flakes on both first and final pitches and the final pitch is quite has some committing runouts. Tiny cams are essential on the last pitch. Start: Start at the deep chimney line (Driftwood) that is the major feature of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.
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18
★★ Driftwood
A strange, unbalanced climb. Few people will do the climb as a whole, using the initial chimney as the start of another climb or doing the final, evil chimney after starting up something else. Start: Start at the deep chimney line that is the major feature of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.
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14
★★ Driftwood/Antigone
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity. State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive). |
15
★★ Antigone
A very nice climb at the grade. Start: Start at the deep chimney line (Driftwood) that is the major feature of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.
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15
★★ Sundance
Very enjoyable. The fourth pitch is runout but can be avoided.
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20
★★ Sunset Strait
Start as for 'Wall of the Afternoon Sun'. Where 'Wall of the Afternoon Sun' traverses right, continue straight up. Belay on ledge between 'Antigone' and 'Sundance'. Either rappel from bolt anchors or continue up one of the other climbs off this ledge. |
19
★ Afternoon Delight
The best way to start Sunset Strait and a worthy pitch in its own right. Starts as for Wall of the Afternoon Sun. Up the easy stuff, then step up and R on to the red streak. Past the bolt and up to stand on the big holds. Move up L to the bolt on Wall of the Afternoon Sun (if joining Sunset Strait) or disregard moving up L to the bolt and instead step up and R to eventually join the last section of the first pitch of Wall of the Afternoon Sun. After its second bolt move across R and up to the ring anchors above Red Sky at Night. |
19 R
★★ Wall of the Afternoon Sun
A neat route featuring a classy and thought-provoking first pitch. Start: Start just right of the chimney splitting this face (sundance).
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20
★★ Red Sky At Night
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity. State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive). |
23
★ If You're Lucky
Up short seam 5 metres right of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun. Hard moves lead past a peg runner (if it's still there). Traverse left 2 metres and over bulge to flake. Up then left to first belay of WOTAS. Start: Not a bad line but doesn't see much traffic. |
19
★ The Burning Fields
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity. State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive). |
20 R
★★★ Take Five
Great climbing up the clean streak starting 15 metres left of 'Watchtower Chimney'.
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5
Tschumpel
Botanical line behind large dead tree at right end of 'Rotten Row'. |
7
Senile
Crack 5 metres right of 'Tschumpel', 1 metre left of 'Bindi'. |
5
Bindi
Chimney line 6 metres right of 'Tschumpel' |
15
Pantouflage
Good finish but the crack is awful. Start: At the end of the first pitch of 'Watchtower Chimney'. |
21
The Last Kind of Hunger
Thoughtful and aesthetic climbing with good protection on brilliant rock. Harder and perhaps a bit more committing than 'Take Five' but without the runout at the start (although you want to concentrate for the start of pitch 3). The line is obvious in the photo on p273 of the current Tempest/Mentz guide. Start up 'Watchtower Chimney Direct Start', the bottomless crack 3m R of Take Five.
Follow 'Rotten Row', continue up the wall above or rappel from the rings about 8m R of the corner. There is a single U-bolt overhead at the base of the 'Driftwood' chimney; a 60m abseil from this reaches the ground. Description taken from Stuart's post on Chockstone |
20 R
★★ Watchtower Chimney Direct Start
Originally named "Pantouflage Direct Start", with the directions to continue up Watchtower Chimney. From this you can deduce hat we thought of one climb and which guidebook editor lacked a sense of humour. Crack 3 metres right of 'Take Five' and 6 metres left of 'Watchtower Chimney'. When it fades continue boldly up to join 'Watchtower Chimney'. |
12
★★ Watchtower Chimney
A climb which gets the heart going no matter if you're on lead or seconding, with the first pitch, by itself, being a great line! Start: There are two deep cracks at the base of the Watchtower. Start at the left-hand crack.
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10
★★ Chicken Express
The express route to Mr. Chicken!
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20
★ Radio Days
An excellent test-piece pitch and a very bold onsight lead by Maureen back in the day. The grey seam on the slabby wall immediately L of Watchtower Chimney is gained via the concave slab and wall just L of the bulging nose. Awkward and unprotected moves gain the nose, then the seam is climbed until it runs out. Take a deep breath and keep going boldly up the slab to the traverse on Watchtower Chimney. At the ancient carrot bolt, continue straight up the enjoyable crack to a narrow ledge. The original route moved L and finished up the easy arete but it is much more enjoyable to climb the unlikely wall directly above to the lower-off (35m) anchors. There is a 50m wandering finish that no one does. David Gallagher and Sue Baxter seconded the second half of the described pitch as they originally split the pitch at the carrot bolt. Glenn Tempest added the independent start and straightened the pitch near the top in July 2018. |
18
★ Watchtower Days
An enjoyable combination pitch (Watchtower Chimney and Radio Days) which has already become quite popular. Climb Watchtower Chimney's initial crack to the traverse. Move 2m L to the ancient carrot bolt. Straight up the crack above (Radio Days) to a narrow ledge. Directly up the wall above (avoiding the easier climbing up the arete on the L) to the big ledge and lower-off / rappel anchors. |
22
Shingleback
A good pitch which essentially straightens out the first pitch of Tiliqua. Up Watchtower Chimney to the traverse. Step L one metre and climb the crack and balancy smooth wall above. After all the drama, step up L on the undercling and pull the final bulge to the ledge and lower-off anchors (35m). |
19
★ Tiliqua
The first pitch meanders a bit but it does offer some very pleasant climbing. It ends at the shared lower-off / rappel anchors of Shingleback . Originally climbed with further juggy pitches to the top of the Watchtower but they’re probably not worth the wander. Climb the seam immediately R of the start of Watchtower Chimney, which it joins near to its traverse. At the traverse, step 1m L and climb the lovely crack above (same as for Shingleback). After 4m leave the crack and traverse R across and up the wall to to gain an orange L-facing corner. Up this and move over L to the belay / rappel anchors on the ledge. Or... start up Watchtower Chimney and on the traverse left, go up the seam over bulge, and lower off at 30m. |
18
★ Man Overboard
Start: At foot of Chimney on 'Watchtower Chimney'.
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15
★★ colonal's eleven
No idea where this is supposed to be |
The Watchtower
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, The Watchtower Faces Area |