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The best thin (exciting!) single pitch face climbing in the Ampitheatre, possibly the best of its style in the 'Grampians'. 'Excellent' edges, horizontals and pockets on gritty rock. This is the most developed cliff on the vast blob of rock below 'Lower Taipan Wall'. Due to its exclusion from the Tempest/Mentz Select Guide this area has been totally neglected - which is very unfortunate as it really is a fantastic crag. Some of the routes are almost sport-climbs and others are definitely not. Shade until early afternoon. UPDATE: This wall has been totally smashed by the fires, but climbs and bolts seem to be in good condition.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.


Walk up Flat Rock and follow the track past 'Epsilon Wall' to a track on the right about 100 metres past 'Crossfire'. This track comes to you courtesy of the Department of Name 'Changes'. Follow the track down into the valley, cross a log-bridge over a swamp and continue for about 150 metres. The cliff can be seen up to the left. Head up through light bush (small cairn) to the cliff. In all, no more than 30 minutes from the car. People tend to arrive at a flake-buttress (Rosy The Riveter) that marks the left side of the main wall. Alternate access: Easy walk up from the 'Camp Sandy' track.

© (nmonteith)

Descent notes

All descents are by single-rope abseils rather than lower-offs as the anchors are usually above some sharp edges. 'Access' to the top of the crag is a total nightmare of grey explodo jugs so make sure you can make it up your chosen route! Climbs are described from left to right.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Don't try to off-width it! The steep corner on the left side of the flake buttress marking left side of main wall. Three FHs and a optional medium cam. Rap-anchor.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, Norm Booth, Louise Shepherd, Tania Lieman & Keith Lockwood, 1994

Why? Balancy face 3m R of 'Rosy the Riveter' to steep, R-leading horizontal crack. Perhaps you traverse R here. Who knows? The description doesn't say.

FA: Peter Woolford, Matt Darby & Stephen Hamilton, 1995

Contrived. Shallow corner groove on right side of flake-buttress. Take care placing RPs at start then up and slightly right.

FA: Peter Woolford, 1995

Nice style. If only Captain Bligh had had a #4 cam! Desperate crimpy start, juggy wall then a technical grit boulder problem finish just when you thinks it is all over.

Start: Start from a flake where the buttress abuts the main face. Step right off flake to clip first FH. Four RB's, #4 cam and maybe a wire or two to rap-anchor. Rebolted 2017

FA: Hugh Widdowson, 1994

Technical pocket pulling. Start down right and dog-leg past three RBs to join original at bolt below break. Rebolted 2017

FA: Hugh Widdowson, 1994

A direct route up the smooth orange wall. Several huge dynamic moves, and is very well protected despite appearances. Rebolted 2017. A hold may have come off this route making it harder

FA: Steve Monks, 1995

Cast away! A superb sustained wall. Start at base of ramp just right of 'Abandon Ship'. Move R up easy ramp to RB. Delicately past RB to break (small cams/wire) and up to RB. Continue strenuously leftwards past two more RBs and an elegant mono-doigt at the top. You'll need a small cam as well. Rebolted 2017

FA: Steve Monks, 1995

Beautiful, steep ripply wall. Start easily just right of smooth orange rock. Up right along ramp, ignoring high RB, then up past RB, step left to runners and straight up to horizontal break. Blast boldly up bulge to RB and on to chain. Trad gear is small/med cams and wires. Rebolted 2017

FA: Louise Shepherd & Norm Booth, 1994

Hard crux. Bridge up using a convenient tree about 12m right of Talk Of Mad Women and onto the wall. Hand traverse right to avoid all of the big loose blocks sitting on the ledge and up to FH. Hard crux past FH then more easily straight up juggy wall past another FH to belay at double FHs above 'Spice Islands'. Walk off right to rap anchors above 'Lord Jim' to descend.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1995

Keeps your interest.Hard start and exciting, pumpy moves on the bulge. Start in centre of wall, about 10m right of 'Roaring Forties'. Pull off boulder onto wall, FH, and crank hard to reach break. Left a fraction at 2nd FH then back right and up to mailbox slot (vital large wire). Motor up and left on the headwall, hoping that the hidden 3rd FH will be staring you in the face when you peer over the top of it. Pull up and continue with a big runout to double bolt anchors. Walk right to chains above 'Lord Jim' to descend.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 1994

Hard start past FH 3m right of Spice Islands. Up past small wires and cams to second FH, clip FH out to the right on Anchors Away before moving left and up past final FH.

FA: Ross Taylor & Simon Madden, Sep 2013

Serious. Scarcely a natural runner worth spitting on in the first half. Start at tree 10m R of 'Spice Islands', 1m L of 'Lord Jim'. Use tree to gain several metres, clip the 2nd bolt of 'Lord Jim', drop down a bit and traverse 4m L. Weave up wall with a variety of dubious runner arrangements, to bolt R of yellow streak. Up headwall then follow jugs dramatically L for 3m on crest of headwall. Go up when it seems to be the best option.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Keiran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, Eric Jones & Norm Booth, 1994

Glorious juggy rock on the headwall after a desperate crimpy start. Screwgate for 1st FH, #1½ cam between 3rd and 4th bolt. 5 FHs. Start 11m right of Spice islands below left side of orange streaks. Hard bouldery start past bolt (pull on this and enjoy the rest at 21ish), teeter past second bolt then motor up wall. Don't touch fragile flake up right of 5th bolt.

FA: Keiran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1994

"Nice climbing, despite its humble appearance", Noddy. The only humble thing on this climb will be you if you take it lightly. The first climb on the wall. Take a few slings for the headwall. Towards right end of wall is a long roof-line. Start left of the left end of roof in a grove of native pines about 3m right of 'Lord Jim'. Step off long, skinny boulder and follow your nose up the wall to an obvious slot with a tuft of reedy grass 2/3rds of the way up the wall. Straight up steeply to finish.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Louise Shepherd, 1994

It's the final step that counts. Start at extreme R end of wall, at easy L-facing corner. Up corner to roof and traverse L for miles until roof is only 1m wide and crossable. Up over roof and R-wards to finish.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Keith Lockwood, 1994

Looks like another stellar line awaiting a free ascent. From start of 'Abandon Ship' go up past carrot, broken flake, 3 RBs. Rebolted 2017

FA: Equipped by Steve Monks, 1994


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