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Description
The best thin (exciting!) single pitch face climbing in the Ampitheatre, possibly the best of its style in the 'Grampians'. 'Excellent' edges, horizontals and pockets on gritty rock. This is the most developed cliff on the vast blob of rock below 'Lower Taipan Wall'. Due to its exclusion from the Tempest/Mentz Select Guide this area has been totally neglected - which is very unfortunate as it really is a fantastic crag. Some of the routes are almost sport-climbs and others are definitely not. Shade until early afternoon. The wall fell out of favour after it was badly affected by the 2014 fires; although the scarring remains evident, it seems that the rock is mostly very solid (at least, it is on the popular routes!).
© (nmonteith)Access issues inherited from Grampians
Designated
Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd
Approach
Walk from Camp Sandy, then turn right onto main walking track.
Alternatively, walk up Flat Rock and turn right at the sign to Stapylton Campground.
Follow the track down into the valley, cross a log-bridge over a swamp / clearing and continue for about 150 metres. The cliff can be seen up to the left. Turn left at small cairn and follow faint path to cliff. In all, no more than 30 minutes from the car. People tend to arrive at a flake-buttress (Rosy The Riveter) that marks the left side of the main wall.
© (nmonteith)Descent notes
Shared lower-offs above routes on left hand side. Descents on right hand side are by single-rope abseils rather than lower-offs as the anchors are usually above some sharp edges. 'Access' to the top of the crag is a total nightmare of grey explodo jugs so make sure you can make it up your chosen route! Climbs are described from left to right.
© (nmonteith)Ethic inherited from Grampians
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Steve Toal
Date: 2019
The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.
Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.
Author(s): Steve Toal
Date: 2019
The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.
Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.
Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780646955544
"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"
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Wed 26 Apr
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