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Fixed Gear: Upgrade of routes I/P

Hey all, the following routes are seldom, if ever, lead, and are currently being upgraded:

The Stoat Stepped Out

Socketh It Unto Me

The variant finishes of these.

TRing at night is still an option & is safe. Lead climbing is NOT recommended untill the upgrade is complete: the old carrots have been removed.

TRing during the day would interfere with the work being done, so please choose another route to TR from, if climbing during the daytime.

Thursday 11th April + Friday 12th April. Hope to have these upgrades done by Friday.

😎😚

See warning details and discuss

Created 16 days ago - Edited 14 days ago

Fixed Gear: CCM

Chubba Chips Mods has had the bolts removed, pending a rebolt & upgrade.

Perfectly fine for TRing, not for leading atm.

See warning details and discuss

Created 12 days ago

description

Start 2 m R of 'Spooge In A Glove'. Climbs the L trending ramp to anchors (shared with 'Spooge In A Glove'). 3 RBs.

Route history

Jan 2014First free ascent: Paul Pagoldh & Steve Kloske

Warnings

13 Feb 2021 Fixed Gear: Slightly Loose lower bolt plate on anchor Resolved
10 Apr 2024 Warning Fixed Gear: Upgrade of routes I/P
14 Apr 2024 Warning Fixed Gear: CCM

Location

Lat/Lon: -27.48020, 153.03338

Grade citation

10 Assigned grade
10 Mark Gamble
12 Steve Kloske

ethic

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
inherited from Kangaroo Point

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 48 from 104 ratings.

Difficulty - 10

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 2 ratings.

Suggested Grade

10

Based on 2 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 90
Flash 21
Red point 33
Top rope 1
Pink point 5
Tick 46
Attempt 2

Comment keywords

solid easy dodgy pleasant stoked enjoyable good great fun nice

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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