Routes in Kangaroo Point

Start as for Bouncy Castle, up past first 2 bolts of BC to small rooflet, up over this (clip BC's bolts as protection) & finish up easy wall at BC's anchors.

Not an enjoyable route & run-out from the 2nd bolt.

NB: Climb only if it has been dry for a week or so.

Start: Up 'Frontier Psychiatrist' for first 3 bolts, putting a long runner (1.5m) on the third. Traverse L over choss, clip FH at start of waterfall bulge and up past another FH to anchor on ledge. Use all your ninja skills retrieving your clips.

(Note: December 2022 - following the severe rock scaling here, by BCC, I checked the fixed hardware & found it untouched & unscathed. M. Gamble)

Start 2m R of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "LPW".

Rebolted in 2019

Follow the L tending line of 5 RBs up nice wall and thin slab. Push through the great crux sequence, placing a #2 wire, and top out.

Start 4m R of 'Wrath of Grapes'.

Up small ledges to very high BR. Continue past 2nd BR to ledge at half height. On up tough headwall past BR & FH to top.

Start at the R end of Olos slab. Marked "C+M".

Thin moves on slab following 3 BRs then up shallow corner in headwall past 2 BRs to DBB shared with 'Surrender'. Staying true to the route requires staying off both 'The Olos Slab' and the 'Surrender' arete, resulting in a pretty contrived climb.

Start as for MBTM then at the first bolt traverse right. Climbing on the right side of the bolts all the way to the chains. This creates a easier variant to MBTM.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

The name was a tribute to Moira who had her leg broken in an accident on Crookneck.

Start: just Left of RIAC. Up the delicate face left of RIAC to a crack then up past two BR's. At the second BR trend left and up to finish. Very sustained.

A direct finish was done by Paul Hoskins at about 25.

Start: In front of lightbox #3, (sign saying "No climbing in this area") - about 15m left of Foreplay. Up slick wall to first RB, up trending left to next RB, up a very blank wall to next RB, continue up the blankness to final RB & chains 4m above. NB: This sector of the cliff tends to weep for a few days after rain.

Start at the broken holds in front of the sign, just right of Piles & left of Cox's Edge. Thin moves to a very high first bolt (carrot), NOT using the big ledges out right. Up the face to gain the small ledge 7-8m up, standing on this, big reach to clip first bolt, more thin moves up to a big ledge & bomber trad gear (small cams), up flake (more gear: offset nuts + ballnuts), to high 2nd bolt, then top-out to Piles anchors.

Start 1m R of usual 'Euthanasia' start.

WARNING: potential for a big groundfall before reaching the 2nd bolt. Straight up to roof, reach left and clip 1st BR on 'Euthanasia'. Then over roof and on to arete. Rejoin 'Euthanasia' at its 3rd BR. Also, there is a large loose, wobbly block in the bulgy crux section. Beware.

Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.

1. 21m (17) Up 'Idiot Wind' to roof then traverse R and down to belay below 'Nic Chips Diffs' headwall.

2. 9m (17) Across 'Exhilarant' to belay on 'Gangbang Wall'.

3. 11m (20) Across to natural pro belay on 8m high ledge on 'Anonymous'.

4. 13m (17) To halfway ledge on 'Pterodactyl'.

5. 14m (22) To 'Moonlight Fantasia' ledge.

6. 20m (22) Finish up 'Adam's Rib'.

Start up the gap between the overhangs, 2m R of 'Pre Menstrual Tendons'.

Easy climbing past 2 RBs, then pass flake with optional gear placements that make the run out less harrowing. Finish over crux overhang with 2 RBs to DBB.

Start as for 'Crossed With No Name V'.

As for 'Crossed With No Name V' but climb directly through the overhang (currently very vegetated).

Start 2m L of 'Gynaecology'.

Solo up wall to ridiculously high BR. Continue straight up past 2nd BR to ledge. Finish up hard steep wall past BR & FH and top out.

Start at corner 3m R of 'Surrender', just L of "NUT" mark (it's often confused with 'Nut').

Up corner past 3 RBs then layback the crux to attain ledge. More challenging moves past 2 RBs to finish at DBB.

Start on pinned face about 10m L of 'Piles' and 1m R of 'Arete'.

A much nicer climb than it looks at first glance. Dyno start to hold and first FH. Up obvious line past 2 more FHs. Break R onto ledge and anchor.

Named after the 1975 hit single from rock band The Tubes.

Start 3m R of 'Dysentery'.

Effectively bolts the way 'Bridal Party' was top roped for a few decades. Up easy slab to ledge and RB. Nice moves up steep face past 2nd RB to jug and 3rd RB. Mantle onto ledge and continue more easily past 2 RBs to DBB.

"Moira and I cleaned up both of the variants and the main route on the same weekend in 1985."

Up SIUM, to small ledge at 8m, then up to a stance below the overhanging crack & bomber gear, through this to slab above, left of MI, & RB on face out left, up TSSO (crux) for the last 3m, passing a FH & rap rings. RB + anchor installed April 2024.

"Moira and I cleaned up both of the variants and the main route on the same weekend in 1985."

Up SIUM to about the 8m mark (small ledge), move left across small ledges to RB, follow the broken rock up, trending right at the "variant start" painted on the rock, to a small stance & clip the next RB, then straight up TSSO VF (crux) passing a 3rd RB. At the ledges below the top, move 1m left or right, to anchors on IW or TSSO. Carrots replaced + anchors installed April 2024,

Start 2m R of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TSSO".

Up to 1st RB on 'Idiot Wind', mantle the ledge & trend up right to 2nd RB on the face (alternatively one can clip the 2nd bolt on IW from the ledge - using an extended quickdraw), up the face to 3rd RB, then follow the broken ledge up right, below the headwall, to a small stance & the next RB, delicate moves up the blank face to the FH & rap rings. ( Route re-bolted + anchors installed April 2024.)

A hard 21! As for TSSO, up IW, passing the first IW RB, mantle the ledge & head right to next RB, up the broken face to a 3rd RB, at the "variant start" painted on the rock, keep right, up ledges till you can safely clip the 4th RB at a small stance, then hard moves up the blank face to the next RB, at the ledges above, move either 1m left or right, to anchors on IW, or TSSO. (route re-bolted + anchors installed on TSSO April 2024.)

Start at the "IW' mark.

Quality climbing. The testpiece of its grade at 'Kangaroo Point'. 5 RBs and anchors. There's a ground anchor just R of the base for lead rope soloing.

Be aware of the possibility of a nasty ledgefall between 4th and 5th bolts.

This route map shows it dodging around the small roof. I lead it direct, doing the nice balancey move as a part of the * experience, and I think others probably did too. (Michael Woodrow)

Start as for 'Idiot Wind' & up to 4th bolt at the big flake.

At the 4th bolt on 'Idiot Wind' (the big flake), don't clip this, but instead, step slightly left, and up the headwall L of the 'Idiot Wind' flake past 2 RBs: The 4th bolt is a desperate clip in the Mark Moorhead tradition, involving a thin crimp or a long reach to get to the bolt, thin moves to next bolt, then traverse right 1.5m, to IW anchors.

Start straight up wall L of usual 'Idiot Wind'. Consider using some trad gear. Rejoins the original at its 2nd bolt.

Start 2m L of 'Bombadil'.

First top roped as 'Kasper' in the '70s at grade 16, the passing decades and a passing Bosch have seen it evolve into a grade 21 sport route. 6 RBs, chains.

A DBB at the 4th bolt allows it to be climbed in 2 (admittedly very short) pitches, great for practicing multipitch skills in a safe environment.

Start 2m L of 'Bouncy Castle'.

Up past 2 FHs to break. Overcome loose section past FH to drillhole overhang and final FH. Interesting crux pulling over this to slab and rap station.

Variant finish to 'Pink Berets'. Break left at 3rd bolt, finish at same anchors. Could possibly have another bolt and its own anchors.

Start 2m L of 'Pink Berets'.

Up L-trending line of 5 RBs to anchors. Not great rock and pretty dirty.

Marked "AFD".

Straight up past 3 FHs, then an RB below the roof. Clip FH just above roof and crank through crux (climbing R around roof is a much easier climb). Once above roof, straight up easy territory to DBB.

Route upgraded to RBs May 2024.

Prior to 2004 this climb traversed in right from 'Kiwi'.

Traverse. Start at 'Halva'.

Four pitch traverse finishing up 'The Olos Slab'.

Start 2m R of 'Vegemite' below the nice looking overhang.

Excellent sustained climbing with a great crux sequence through the overhang. 5 RBs then 2 FHs and DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Start 2m or so L of the usual route, near "RRR" mark.

Instead of starting up the 'Juice' crack then traversing L, climb straight up the steep face to join the usual route at its 2nd FH. The usual route's 1st RB off to the R may offer some protection for the start, depending on how direct you go.

Start below steep smooth face about 10m R of 'Earth to Stella' pillar.

Climb series of cracks offering good natural pro to finish at DBB. No mantling or escaping R to ledges. Will need to be de-vined again before the next ascent!

Start at base of 10m pillar, about 5m R of bottom of the stone stairs.

Fun pumpy moves up L face of pillar past 2 BRs. Finish on top of pillar at DBB.

Start: Below big overhanging block Left of GR. Up easy crack to below the big roof & RB. Layback out right onto small ledge and climb nice crack to grassy ledge. Up sustained wall on right of sharp arete, with good gear in horizontal cracks, to loose top.

NB: This route needs an anchor, as Council have since shotcreted the top 2m of cliff and established the parkland above.

More joy.

Start: Slightly right of Light Box #11. Up broken face, past a RB, then traverse slightly right and up to small ledge. Clip high RB and fire straight up the improbable looking wall past another RB. Traverse left and up the recess to below overhanging block. Clip final RB and jug up to chain above left. Note, this route tends to seep for some days after rain.

Start: Up Rear Entry to 3rd bolt, then head up right passing 2 more BRs, to chains. Note: this route tends to seep for several days after rain.

Start: About 4m right of Light Box #13. Below the overhanging corner. Up broken rock to first carrot, to a small ledge & 2nd carrot, follow corner up to 3rd carrot, up right through small overhang & 4th carrot, out right across ledges to broken corner, up this to 5th carrot (out left) & big jug to double rings out left. Remember to bring bolt plates.

Rebolted. 5 ring bolts lead the way.

Start: In front of Light box #14; At the blank face, about 5m left of the inside corner route (Gumby's Demise). Climb the broken face to a low first RB at 3m, up to ledge, passing another RB at 5m, difficult mantle, then up face, past another 3 RBs to chains out left under branches (shared with Oh Mighty Gumby). Note: There's a big 10-12m run-out over easier ground from the 2nd to 3rd RB, if you want, there are trad placements (crack) between these two bolts.

Start 3m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "E".

Up past 4 BRs then left to the 'Punks in the Gin' anchor. Quite run out, and the carrots always feel one move further away than you wished they were.

Start just R of 'Mission Impossible'. Marked "AGAP".

Up the broken rock to ledge and very high RB. Head L through nice crux sequence up R side of 'Mission Impossible' arete to 2nd RB (don't fall, odds are you'll hit the ledge). Mantle up to slab then edge up past RB shared with '42 Wheels' to top. Seldom repeated on lead.

"Did the first ascent of this when bolting was a very sensitive issue. I had been heavily criticised for bolting 'Hanger Wall Arete' (instead of putting a wire in the crux pocket/crack to protect that move!), particularly by Evan Beiske if memory serves... anyway, AGAP was my response. Please note it was pretty bold as it didn't have a bolt protecting the crux, just a small, thin piton facing downwards! LOL... Evan whimpered on repeat and lowered onto the piton in horror when he couldn't do the move... :-0" (Mick Woodrow)

Start 2m R of 'The Rasp'. Marked "DD".

More or less rebolted as 'Dare to Dream'. Straight up past 2 RBs, then sling the drill hole at 2/3 height. Original route might have continued L to join the final two BRs on 'The Rasp'.

Start 5m R of 'Pommy Bastard'. Marked "E".

Boulder start ("Exterminator") to very high RB at 6m. Past further 3 RBs and finish at 'Dare to Dream' anchors. Route upgraded May 2024 with RBs.

Start 1m R of 'Lost in Space'. Marked "PMT".

Very high 1st bolt. 5 RBs and DBB. The section up to the first bolt can be protected with a tricam in the pocket, and a small cam in the slot as you pull over the bulge.

Start as for 'Nightfell'.

A more direct version of 'Nightfell' which goes straight through the overhang rather than skirting around it. 2 FHs, though they provide next to no protection at the crux where the potential for a nasty ledge fall is high. Top rope advised.

Start at Plunging for Mudbunnies (as close to the garden that splits the Left and Right wall as you can) and finish at More Bolts Than Meters.

Sit start on small rail just left/under BARFJ marking. Move up to good rail. Continue up until you reach jug in line with the "B" in BARFJ.

Standing start.

Starting on the small ledge about 2m left of 'Around The World'. Using only your legs (no hands/leaning). Traverse left around the corner to MOBS. Or do it the opposite way.

Follow the numbers to 6 then straight up to 10.

Standing start.

Run up the wall to the sharp jug a couple of feet above and slightly to the right of the IW marking.

Using the undercling just left of FOBS. Using funky feet, deadpoint the little jug above the bulge. If you don't stick it, watch you don't smash your face on the way back down...

Start: To the right of the 'SIN' graffiti

L5, R16, L using the seam between 23 and 19 (optional), R10, M10.

Sit start in the arch shaped feature on 1 and 2. 'Layback' up the finger crack to the jugs above the V.

Start: The crack between the climbs marked SR and SRO.

M6, L7, R3, L23, then right hand to big jug just out of picture.

M6, L18, R11, M11, R15, M15.

Start just R of 'Gigolo' / 'Nic Pic Dics'.

Follow line of 3 BRs up R side of thin slab to anchor shared with 'Nic Pic Dics'.

Start as for 'Exhilarant'.

Clip the BR in the middle of the steep face on the L part way up 'Exhilarant'. Bridge L to ledges then straight up past 2 further BRs to top out.

Start at the "PB" mark.

Ledges and crap rock in parts but still has some nice moves on it. Well protected. 5 RBs and lower-offs.

First ascent was done in drizzling rain with a visiting American climber that washed into Mountain Designs when Mick was working there.

Start at the "MOBS" mark, 2m R of 'FOBS'.

Bouldery start and a little bit run out. Potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid if leading. Make sure to tend L after 4th bolt. 4 FHs plus an optional BR to protect the awkward reach back to clip the DBB.

Start at the "FOBS" mark.

Hard overhung start then more easily up past 6 RBs to DBB.

Start 2m L of 'FOBS'.

6 RBs. Shares final RB & DBB with 'FOBS'.

Start below the overhang midway between 'Froth' and 'Arrow'.

Straight up, keeping off 'Froth' and 'Arrow'.

Linkup. Start up 'Lesbian Printshop Workers', finish up 'Zac'.

Rebolted in November 2019 with two fresh RBs. Start just R of 'Gynaecology'. Marked "PMB".

Straight up clipping the 2 RBs shared with 'Gynaecology', staying right of the bolt line. Mantle onto the halfway ledge then up the crack (medium friends) and arete to top.

Start 3m L of 'Olos'. Marked "SG".

Tend R up thin face past high RB to ledge and 2nd RB. Continue up cracked face (small wires) and top out.

Historical register: This route is now a part of Riverlife property and lies behind it.

Clip the first BR from ground and boulder up. Mantle sloping hold and continue up the nice arete past another two BR's to an easy finish.

Start: Right of the big Foreclosure block, behind a small tree. Up the varied rock, passing 5 RBs to chains. Keep left of the drill hole at the start & climb straight up to the 2nd RB, up the sharp arete on good moves to 5th RB & chains on ledge.

This route has been retro-bolted.

Start: Directly in front of Light Box #12. Climb the spreading Fig tree at the start to first BR, then thin moves up to a ledge, move Right along this to 2nd BR. Straight up to a 3rd BR just Left of the arete, then traverse Right under the overhung & up the blank corner passing another 3 RBs to chains.

A different start to 'Pterodactyl', starting 1m R.

Only minimally different to the standard 'Pterodactyl' and traverses L to join the usual route at halfway.

"I only got interested in leading the FFA of this route because it makes me the only person I know who can claim to have freed a Hot Henry Barber top-rope problem!" (Mick Woodrow)

Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.

1. 20m (17) Up 'Idiot Wind' to 2nd bolt. Traverse R to belay on 'Hanger Wall'.

2. 15m (20) Traverse R on high line of 'Hanger Wall' to belay on 'Chip-a-Holdaway'.

3. 15m (12) Across to belay on last bolt of 'Euthanasia'.

Start at the "K" mark.

Nice moves through a thin crux sequence. First bolt is very high (hence the "R" rating). 5 FHs & DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Start as for original 'Radioactive Cheerio'.

Climb up to 2nd BR as per the original route, then, instead of traversing R at 2nd bolt, climb straight up the headwall past a FH. Continue up cracked pillar with natural pro to top. Big reach and balance move.

Start at short crack 3m L of 'Wounded Knee'.

Bouldery moves up crack (somewhat) protected by RB 1m to L. Straight up slabby corner past RB then very long runout up R-tending steps to ledge below corner. Fun moves up corner past 2 RBs to DBB shared with 'After the Gold Rush'. Just barely qualifies as sport - could do with a rebolt.

Rebolted in 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.

Climb as per 'Juice' to 2nd RB then continue straight up to climb face between 'Robbie's Robust Runners' chimney on L and 'Juice' corner on R, passing 2 RB's. Finish at DBB shared with 'Juice'. Very run out between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Edit: This run out can be protected with a number 5 nut in the top of the crack to the left of the first ledge after the second clip.

Rebolted in 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

Start 2m R of '32A'. Faintly marked "WNN".

Up steep wall past 2 very well spaced BRs to under overhang. Traverse L around overhang to ledge. Up slab in top half past 2 BRs to top.

Start 2m R of 'Zac'. Faintly marked "32A".

Up past 3 RBs to ledge. Up slab then corner with minimal protection and top out to R. Yet another decent climb mostly overlooked because pro is dodgy.

Start 2m R of 'Lesbian Printshop Workers'. Faintly marked "Z".

Straight up manky 1st half to ledge, clipping BRs on '32A' and/or 'LPW'. Continue up nice cracked slab and corner with desperate natural pro to top.

Start: as for Foreclosure. Climb to RB below the small rooflet, traverse left, then up, following a small seam/crack (small but solid gear). Stem up the seam/crack & face on the left, until a mantle rejoins you with the top 2 RBs of Foreclosure. Finish up arete as per Foreclosure to anchor.

Start at crack 2m R of 'Arrow'.

Good climbing but very bold on lead. Up crack then push past overhang to ledge. Finish up unprotected wall.

Test your stamina and endurance across about 250m of rock. There used to be a fig tree that grew up the cliff at Tigers Stripe.

Start at Moonlight Fantasia and finish just after Tiger Stripe where the Fig tree once lived.

Boulder up start of 'Chip-a-Holdaway' to ledge.

Use any of the following hold: 1, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 14, 15, 17 in order to get match 21.

CANT DELETE

UQ didn't allow me into their pool this morning.... I was too 'covidish'

Went to KP instead.

In the carpark, I traversed the wall at about 1.2m. Obeyed the 'No Standing' sign (style points for lateral thought), kissed the disabled sign (you can do this wearing your best mask). Inspect each tree carefully for bats.

From here it's choose your own adventure.

Watch the polished feet.

Follow the numbers to 14 then rinse and repeat.

Up the 'Plunging for Mudbunnies' drillhole.

Boulder the start of 'Chubba Chips Mods'.

Balance up to small holds & dyno to big sharp jug. Traverse R & downclimb to finish.

M1, L5, M5 (gaston), R6, M6

Run at the slab and jump to the big jug, mantle onto the ledge.

Sit start at hold 1. Reach up and pinch 4. Head left to pocket at 3.

Sit start on hold one, without using the low ledge to the left. Use the pocket at 2 to get to pocket at 3.

L1, R2, L3, R4, R5, M6.

Seems to have become lost in the jungle to the R of 'Short Wall'. Supposedly marked "AC".