Routes as trad in Kangaroo Point

Not pretty and not popular. Neil's first ever new route.

Start: Just left of Light Box #10, below a FH. Up a steep blank wall with hard reach move to jug and very high 1st FH. Up loose broken face to 2nd FH 3.5m above. Up blocky ledges & more broken rock, to a FH about 5m above, on face out right, mantle ledge & traverse 2m right to chains. Bold and loose between 1st & 2nd & 3rd FHs. This needs retrobolting to make it a safe lead.

Start: Below the big overhanging block. Up easy, loose crack under roof to a ring bolt, then up to a nice crack with good gear. Continue up crack for a few moves to grassy ledge. Climb left onto the arete & up this (crux) past two ring bolts and up to DBB. Unique climbing for KP with a few different styles of climbing involved.

Start: as for Foreclosure. Climb to RB below the small rooflet, traverse left, then up, following a small seam/crack (small but solid gear). Stem up the seam/crack & face on the left, until a mantle rejoins you with the top 2 RBs of Foreclosure. Finish up arete as per Foreclosure to anchor.

Mick Woodrow's first free ascent at KP. ignominious! Crap climbing in between vertical dirt.

Start: ten metres before the cliff turns left. Up blocks to a grassy ledge. Up and left to the manky corner and climb the dirty rubble to the top.

As of 2022, this whole area is overgrown and awash with vegetation.

The chossy start left of the original route.

As of 2022, this whole area is overgrown and awash with vegetation.

Start: at the small buttress left of EE. Up bulging twin cracks on a tier, to a stance. Up unprotected crap rock to top.

As of 2022, this whole area is overgrown and awash with vegetation.

Start: At the initials "TPM", four metres left of the big arete. Up the short crack left of the arete then continue up ledges to top.

Footnote: It is still possible to climb this, as it lies just outside of the Riverlife property.

Historical register: This route now lies on Riverlife property and lies behind it.

Interesting bridging moves up a dark corner leads to an enjoyable layback and an easy finish. Tree belay. Try this one before visiting Frog!

Historical register: This route now lies on Riverlife property and lies behind it.

Contrived climbing up the thin wall left of the corner, to a notch in the wall at five metres. Traverse right and finish up the original line.

Historical register: This route now lies on Riverlife property and lies behind it.

More contrived climbing. Climb Gash Flash VS & at the notch, continue up the arete placing gear in the Gash Flash crack.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: On the blank face, about 6-7m Left of the sharp Gash Flash arete. Very hard edging up face, past a BR, leads to a small ledge. Place pro in crack and crank up to top and chain.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: Just Left of Tode Mode. Up wall trending Right past two BR's to Tode Mode's ledge. Finish up Tode Mode's crack to top. A barbed wire fence once existed below this climb making falls a scary proposition!

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: at the MCR initials. Hard and sustained climbing up the chipped pockets past two BR's leads to easier ground and some trad gear, then the top.

Historic route description included here for posterity. This route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: 1m Right of TT, below the pipe hole. Up the crack and pipe hole with difficulty to a BR. Push past this with difficulty to an easy finish over blocks.

Historic route description included here for posterity. This route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: At the initials; TT. A rather interesting excursion up the small red corner. At two thirds height step right and finish up easy ground. Nice crack climbing with solid gear.

Buried somewhere in the vegetation L of 'Crap Corner'.

Start 1m L of 'Earth to Stella'.

Probably not an ironic name. Climb up face to crack at L side of the 'ETS' pillar. Follow crack as it widens and tends R to finish at top of pillar. Shares the 'ETS' DBB.

Start below steep smooth face about 10m R of 'Earth to Stella' pillar.

Climb series of cracks offering good natural pro to finish at DBB. No mantling or escaping R to ledges. Will need to be de-vined again before the next ascent!

Start about 10m L of 'Olos'. Marked "W".

Start as for 'Brickie's Butt Crack (Right Finish)', 2m R of 'Web'.

Up following line of 3 BRs. From ledge at 2/3 height, tend L up crack in face (natural pro) then past another BR to DBB. Start is much easier (12) if steps to R are climbed instead of directly up past the bolts.

Start as for 'Brickie's Butt Crack (Left Finish)', 2m R of 'Web'.

Up following line of 3 BRs. From ledge at 2/3 height, step R to base of corner then up this (natural pro) to DBB. Start is much easier (12) if steps to R are climbed instead of directly up past the bolts.

Start 3m L of 'Olos'. Marked "SG".

Tend R up thin face past high RB to ledge and 2nd RB. Continue up cracked face (small wires) and top out.

Eddie Irvine's first lead... hung himself by his gear sling when his foot slipped placing a nut in the layback! LOL

Start as for 'Olos'.

At halfway, traverse R to meet 'The Olos Slab' at its last bolt and finish as per that climb.

Start 2m R of 'Nut'. Marked "WoG".

Straight up past very high BR to halfway ledge and 2nd BR. Scramble R to base of corner. Layback up corner with natural pro to top.

Start 4m R of 'Wrath of Grapes'.

Up small ledges to very high BR. Continue past 2nd BR to ledge at half height. On up tough headwall past BR & FH to top.

Start at crack 3m L of 'Gynaecology'.

Follow manky crack to top.

Rebolted in November 2019 with two fresh RBs. Start just L of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "G".

Straight up clipping the 2 RBs shared with 'Postmodernist Blues' but staying left of the bolt line. At the halfway ledge step L and climb up corner to anchor.

The corner takes good natural gear, despite what the guidebook may suggest.

Rebolted in November 2019 with two fresh RBs. Start just R of 'Gynaecology'. Marked "PMB".

Straight up clipping the 2 RBs shared with 'Gynaecology', staying right of the bolt line. Mantle onto the halfway ledge then up the crack (medium friends) and arete to top.

Start 2m R of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "LPW".

Rebolted in 2019

Follow the L tending line of 5 RBs up nice wall and thin slab. Push through the great crux sequence, placing a #2 wire, and top out.

Linkup. Start up 'Lesbian Printshop Workers', finish up 'Zac'.

Start 2m R of 'Lesbian Printshop Workers'. Faintly marked "Z".

Straight up manky 1st half to ledge, clipping BRs on '32A' and/or 'LPW'. Continue up nice cracked slab and corner with desperate natural pro to top.

Start 2m R of 'Zac'. Faintly marked "32A".

Up past 3 RBs to ledge. Up slab then corner with minimal protection and top out to R. Yet another decent climb mostly overlooked because pro is dodgy.

Start 2m R of 'Crossed With No Name'. Marked "CCM". You will need 5 bolt plates.

Up steep wall past 3 BRs. Climb past 2 more BRs to crack. Follow crack placing natural pro. DBB with rings.

Start at the "WK" mark.

Up past 4 BRs then natural pro in second half. DBB. Remember your boltplates.

5 bolts above an optional gear placement. Start at Nightfell ("N"), climb up to the ledge at 2m, place a cam (#1 BD or medium tricam) in the slot out left, just above the lip. Big layback & step-up to bolt, over bulge to ledge below scooped wall & next bolt. Then up left of the scoop & straight up, passing another 3 bolts to anchors.

Start as for 'Nightfell'.

A more direct version of 'Nightfell' which goes straight through the overhang rather than skirting around it. 2 FHs, though they provide next to no protection at the crux where the potential for a nasty ledge fall is high. Top rope advised.

Start 3m R of 'Wounded Knee'. Faintly marked "N".

Up layback to ledge below overhang. Traverse R to avoid overhang, briefly joining 'Mank Mistress', before tending back L above overhang. Continue to top. Run out in parts.

Start at the "V" mark.

Up using BR and natural pro to FH and crux at half height. Traverse R and up past BR to top.

Start as for original 'Radioactive Cheerio'.

Climb up to 2nd BR as per the original route, then, instead of traversing R at 2nd bolt, climb straight up the headwall past a FH. Continue up cracked pillar with natural pro to top. Big reach and balance move.

Start 2m R of 'Prickles', 2m L of 'Ego'. Faintly marked "RC".

Straight up to stance & BR. Traverse R past BR to mantle move & FH shared with 'Ego'. From here trend L to climb up cracked pillar with natural pro to top.

Start as for original 'Ego'. Instead of finishing up the slab, climb corner to L with natural pro. Top out.

Start 2m L of 'Silly or Serious'. Marked "EGO".

Up past BR to stance. Place #1 RP then up small corner on L to FH. Step R to face then up past BR to below slab. Thin moves up slab past 2 FHs and top out.

Yet another example of a 'KP' "trad" route that would benefit from being fully bolted.

Traverse. Start at 'Halva'.

Four pitch traverse finishing up 'The Olos Slab'.

Obsolete but included for historical/confusion reasons. Disappeared after a fig tree grew nearby. 'Tiger Stripe' covers this part of the wall.

Start 2m R of 'Tiger's Tail'. Marked "TE".

Straight up past 2 RBs (1st one is high) to drill hole & crux, up onto the slab & final RB, then up to chains. NB: the drill hole has a crack running through it. I would advise a small cam, or tricam, placed sideways, or better, a ballnut in the crack on the slab. Rebolted in 2020 with RBs & a lower-off.

Start 2m R of 'Dirty Situations'. Marked "I".

Way too runout as a sport route so take trad gear. For example, potential big groundfall before 3rd bolt = can be protected with a small cam such as a C3. 4 RBs and DBB.

Technical & balancy climbing to 1st RB, crux move over the lip to 2nd RB, up the thin, balancy face to 3rd RB, more thin moves on slab above to 4th RB, then easier ground to chains.

Very slippery rock.

Sandbagged old school climb and grade. Not a lot of pro in the first half.

The left tending crack. Has a set of anchors over the bulge at the top on a nice ledge.

Start 1.5m R of 'Bottle Stopper'. Marked "SR".

Trad route with some BRs. Probably harder than grade suggests.

Start 4m R of 'Standing Room Only'. Marked "SF".

Follows the obvious finger crack to top. One of the best trad routes at 'KP'.

Start 1m L of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "DM".

Named after a climber killed on Crookneck. Climb up slinging drill hole, then follow line of 3 RBs to DBB. Originally led as a trad route but has been retrobolted.

Start at the base of the deep crack.

Follow the right-tending crack until it runs out then head straight to the top. Minimal protection, especially higher up.

Start 3m R of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "S". Poor protection. Up to the concave scoop on dodgy rock, some gear in the thin crack on the right, up on poor gear to face above & better placements, then to top on reasonable gear, head right to DBB on Septugenarian, or top-out.

Start 1.5m to L of 'The Bee's Knees'.

Up trad line with 3-4 nut placements. Finish at "The Bee's Knees' DBB.

Start at 'The Duck's Nuts'.

Trad line near 'The Duck's Nuts' and 'Date Anatomy'.

Start at obvious crack 3m R of 'Ring Around the Moon', marked SKEG (for some reason). Very good protection

Up intermittent crack to overhang. Over this (crux) and top out to R.

Start at crack 2m R of 'Arrow'.

Good climbing but very bold on lead. Up crack then push past overhang to ledge. Finish up unprotected wall.

Start 2m R of 'MOBS'.

Looks just like a sport route until you realise how runout it is between the 3rd & 4th bolts and start wishing you'd brought some trad gear. 5 FHs & DBB.

Start just L of the waterfall. Marked "TA".

Manky trad crack.

An alternate start to the 'Eddie Goes to Gay Bars' a traverse which adds an extra pitch. Start at 'Frontier Psychiatrist' then traverse R from the 3rd bolt to 3rd bolt on 'Idiot Wind' to join the usual 'Eddie Goes to Gay Bars' route.

Trad line between 'Frontier Psychiatrist' and 'Junket' - The obvious crack. Very soft band of ignimbrite = very poor gear & poor climbing. Run-out at top. Follow left leaning crack, then right up to chains on Junket.

Up first two bolts as for Bouncy Castle then head out right to fun moves up trad crack with good gear before heading left to Bouncy Castle's anchors. Described previously on TheCrag as Busted Xylophone, however after noticing a major grading inconsistency and further consultation of the guidebook, this route is independent to the traditional Busted Xylophone route.

Start 2m R of 'The Rasp'. Marked "DD".

More or less rebolted as 'Dare to Dream'. Straight up past 2 RBs, then sling the drill hole at 2/3 height. Original route might have continued L to join the final two BRs on 'The Rasp'.

Start as for 'Dolerite Dreaming'.

Essentially a rebolt of 'Dolerite Dreaming', maybe with a more direct finish. Up past two RBs and sling the drill hole. Continue straight up past two more RBs, traverse L under the roof and run it out to the anchor.

Old trad route starting where 'Bombadil' is now.

Historic KP trad route. In today's terms; runout & dangerous in the upper half. Up onto large ledge at 2m (gear), tricky step up, then out right & up to sloping ledge at 5m., up headwall (more gear) above, then trend left, up along weakness & no gear till you get to the lefthand corner crack & top-out.

Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.

1. 20m (17) Up 'Idiot Wind' to 2nd bolt. Traverse R to belay on 'Hanger Wall'.

2. 15m (20) Traverse R on high line of 'Hanger Wall' to belay on 'Chip-a-Holdaway'.

3. 15m (12) Across to belay on last bolt of 'Euthanasia'.

Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.

1. 21m (17) Up 'Idiot Wind' to roof then traverse R and down to belay below 'Nic Chips Diffs' headwall.

2. 9m (17) Across 'Exhilarant' to belay on 'Gangbang Wall'.

3. 11m (20) Across to natural pro belay on 8m high ledge on 'Anonymous'.

4. 13m (17) To halfway ledge on 'Pterodactyl'.

5. 14m (22) To 'Moonlight Fantasia' ledge.

6. 20m (22) Finish up 'Adam's Rib'.

"Moira and I cleaned up both of the variants and the main route on the same weekend in 1985."

Up SIUM to about the 8m mark (small ledge), clip the carrot out left, then step left & finish up TSSO VF (crux) past 2 carrots. No anchors as of October 2023 = top-out & belay from RB at wall.

"Moira and I cleaned up both of the variants and the main route on the same weekend in 1985."

Up SIUM, to small ledge at 8m, clip carrot out left on face, up overhanging crack, to slab above MI, & carrot on face out left, trend left, up TSSO (crux) for the last 3m, passing a FH & top-out. No anchors as of October 2023 = top-out & belay from ringbolt at the wall.

Start 2m R of 'The Stoats Stepped Out'. Faintly marked "S".

Up to corner, layback up it, to ledge below overhung crack, clip carrot out left (don't go left!), hard moves through the crux & finish up the cracked face just L of 'Mission Impossible'. Committing.

Start just L of 'Another Girl Another Planet'. Marked "MI".

Straight up cracked corner past deep hole in rock to top. Run out on lead. Soloed on first free ascent.

Start as for 'Mission Impossible'.

Traverse R at the ledge above the deep hole and finish up slab as for 'Another Girl Another Planet'.

Start 1m R of 'Dysentery'. Marked "BM".

Up past 2 RBs to 'Dysentery RHF' roof. Up over this and up slab to DBB.

(Rebolted Dec 2020)

Start at 'Wedding Crashers'.

Old school climb which traverses L and R to find line of least resistance. Finishes up 'Exhilarant'.

Start as for 'Exhilarant'.

Clip the BR in the middle of the steep face on the L part way up 'Exhilarant'. Bridge L to ledges then straight up past 2 further BRs to top out.

Start up big corner 2m L of 'Hanger Wall Arete'. Marked "Ex".

Up the corner then finish up slab. Upgraded from the original grade of 16 by consensus.

Start 1m R of 'Chip-A-Holdaway'. Marked "A".

The original trad route. Up obvious corner (gear on left), then on up ledges to corner finish. Average protection at the start, can now be supplemented with the RBs on 'Anonymous DS' making it a good beginner trad lead.

Start 2m R of 'Anonymous', 1m R of 'Anonymous DS'.

Up shallow corner, then sharp arete, then ledges to top.

Start to the left of BO and follow the Arete up.

You can access the BO anchors for top rope by climbing down from the top of 'Anonymous'.

Start 2m L of 'Stoat Clips Bolts'. Marked "BO".

A different start to 'Pterodactyl', starting 1m R.

Only minimally different to the standard 'Pterodactyl' and traverses L to join the usual route at halfway.

"I only got interested in leading the FFA of this route because it makes me the only person I know who can claim to have freed a Hot Henry Barber top-rope problem!" (Mick Woodrow)

This is a link-up that crosses Pterodactyl and Honed and Buffed. Climbs the face of Pterodactyl (not either of the aretes) for first 3 bolts. Series of thin and balanced holds. Then step right off the ledge onto the face. 1 small bomber nut in the obvious crack for pro. Then up and across face. Up the last 2 bolts of Honed and Buffed to anchors.

Start 1m R of 'BARFJ'. Marked "MF".

One of the few good natural lines at 'KP'. It is a shame that the upper layback crack was halved when the council decided to renovate in the mid 1990s by dynamiting it off! Neil Monteith added the new bolted finish when the dust settled.

Up pockets to small roof, then up layback crack on L to halfway ledge. Straight up past RB to crack. Either top out or use BARFJ anchors just L.

Start as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

At small roof, head straight up face to halfway ledge avoiding layback crack on L. From ledge finish as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

Start as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'.

From halfway ledge climb crack 2m R to top.

Start at 'By Ignorance'.

Not really a traverse but an easy L-tending scramble up to the 'Bufo Marinus' anchors. Often soloed to set up a top rope on 'Bufo Marinus'.

Start 1m R from the 'Bufo Marinus' arete. Marked "BI".

Up to halfway ledge at base of slab. Up slab to layback crack, then up this, R around bulge and top out.

Start as for 'By Ignorance'.

At the halfway ledge, traverse R 2m and climb up the middle of the slab to the top. No protection.

Start 2m R of the usual 'By Ignorance' start.

Straight up drill hole to halfway ledge, then up the corner at the R edge of the slab. Very bold.

Start as for 'Adam's Rib'.

From the large ledge two-thirds of the way up, climb up the corner instead of the arete.

Start at the massive "AR" mark.

Climb up the corner and face then on up to the large ledge with the corner two-thirds of the way up. From here climb the arete on the R to the top.

Start 1m R of the usual 'Adam's Rib' start.

Climb up the slippery face to join 'Adam's Rib' at the corner.

Start 2m R of 'Adam's Rib', where the "$♂" (dollar-man, get it?!) is painted about 4m off the ground.

Up the hard slots (wires) then finish up the 'Adam's Rib' arete.