Nodes in Mt Ninderry

Technical vertical faces, pumpy overhangs, stamina routes, boulder problems in the sky, steep cave climbing, this crag has it all. Great summer climbing with brilliant views from the seaside walls.

A big, easily accessible freestanding rock right next to the tourist track has some good bouldering, but also has very little room for mats, climb with care.

Straight up the crack feature in the middle of the big rock, follow the crack to the top and mantle out, descend down the back of the rock.

Pretty jank, mossy, standing start boulder. Go up from some solid crimps, hit a couple side-pulls, Stevie-step on up, slip your phalanges into some holds, bing, bam, boom, you're topping out Gooch Trooper.

Isolated wall high up on the Eastern face. Routes are listed from South to North.

The route to the left of Boaty McBoatface, shared anchor with Boaty. Hangers are easily seen near the top but extend to approx 15 below the Boaty DBB station where another DBB exists in good condition to belay from. Can also be used as a descent route (another 20m or so) to the ledge just above the start of pitch two for Just Add Water from Octopuses Garden. If rapping down this way be aware the pull down runs the risk of snagging your rope in trees halfway down and another rap from a tree or a longish walk around is still needed to get back to Octopuses Garden if your gear is there.

Proud arete with some refreshing exposure. From rings at the southern edge of the access gully, head up the slab to a ledge where the arete starts. Climb the overhanging (left) side of the arete on great holds until you run out of arete and mantle to top out finish.

Start in the middle of the south wall of the gully. Bouldery start into slabby fun before heading up the right side of the arete. Tops out to the same rings as Boaty McBoatface.

Start up the black streak to the right of I'm an anemone, at the bottom of the corner rap from the summit. Slabby climbing to it's own set of chains.

Top route in the access gully.

Lower steep route in the access gully. Belay bolt on ledge.

The airy scramble that will get you to the DBB at the base of Boaty McBoatface if you've just climbed Just Add Water or are at the overhung climbs with fixed ropes. Nuts etc optional as if you climb it right the rope and trees will protect any unexpected falls. Though you might like to sling the trees for comfort, but please minimise damage to them. This is the better option than the right hand variant as there's less/zero chance of hailing rocks onto your belayer, and you wind up at the DBB for Boaty.

The right hand variant, going straight up. This is far more risky as a scramble and just generally a less than ideal way to get up to the upper section of the crag, as there's a lot of loose gravel and rock that you can and likely will kick down towards your belayer. They can either belay from anchors at top of Just Add Water, or from in the boulders underneath the overhang. At the top of the gully you'll find the belay bolt for the Mariana Trench at about chest height. Belaying from here is not ideal, a better option is to use a draw/biner to help redirect the rope and keep it up and away from the loose rock, so that you can belay from tree or gear to the left near base of Sea Monkey's Uncle.

The flake feature on the the left hand end of the steep wall. Fun and sustained climbing.

Will be hard! Alex has done all the moves so it goes. Give it a crack!

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please car pool to minimise parking problems (lots of parking at the highway turnoff). There have been complaints so please be quiet and respectful. Please approach via the land atop Ocean Vista Drive which is now under Sunshine Coast Council ownership as part of the Mt. Ninderry reserve. Use the turning circle at the end of the road and park Vehicles with 4 wheels on the road and not blocking the fire trail to allow access for emergency vehicles if required. Don’t use the carparks in the turning circle. Be respectful and low key. In particular,

• use QUIET voices on arrival and on the walk-ins - noise travels.
• Don’t linger over beers or cooking up noodles after climbing and definitely NO OVERNIGHT STAYS.
• All dogs at the location must be on leash at all times.
• Don’t urinate in front of houses (yes there’s been complaints!).

This is a peaceful residential neighbourhood, so we want to be good stewards of climbing. The 15 min walk brings you out near Enter the Ninja arête.

Takes the hard R to L undercling to headwall. Looks classic and hard!

Diagonal crack to arete. Hard start requiring an attentive belay past the first 3 bolts, leading to the steep arete.

R end of main wall. Semi-hanging belay on ledge. Punchy boulder problem start. Tricky all the way to the chains.

Short prominent arete R end of the wall. Clip the low first bolt then start R in the corner. Explosive movements with long tosses and stiff climbing.

Below Seaman Staines in little cave, thread the feature then clip one fh before squirming out to the anchors. Can rap in or easy scramble down/out to left.

A mini adventure route up the corner on the far right of the terrace. Easiest to access by fixing a line to the right end of the fixed rope and lowering to an anchor on the edge. Climbing gingerly right below the loose stuff and up the wall, following the corner and then the arete.

Shorter routes than other sectors, but a few absolute corkers. Also has a great trad wall (not yet in guide) for those fond of wiggly shit. This juggy terrain may see you pumped.

At the far left hand side the wall as you first arrive at the crag, 10 m left of Yellow Submarine. Can be used to access the steep wall of The Eastern Seaboard, but not access gully routes.

Second climb from the left. Plenty of questionable rock and a big run out between the 3rd and the 4th bolt.

Start: 2m left of Lava Tube under cave. Slab for first 2 bolts into cave and 3rd FH. Get all tangled up getting to the 4th FH and turn the lip. Continues straight up to chains. 7 FHs

Great featured climbing up the scoop, then leftwards to the last bolt and anchors. Mind the tree.

Up left side of cave to shared anchors.

Scramble over loose cave floor to the middle left side of the cave. Straight up the vertical mid cave and into the ledge. From the ledge it's straight through the roof to the lip of the cave and out on to the head wall. Extra bolt on ledge if you want but adds drag, runners advised

The centre line straight through the heart of the cave. Head up the vertical face at the middle back of cave and ascend to the back ledge of the cave. From the ledge take a leap of faith out on to the knobby protrusions then summon your polar bear strength to climb straight across the roof and over the lip to the head wall.

Starts up the right side of the cave then left through the roof on wild "Ninderry-solid" features. Finishes up the middle of the headwall. Awesome steep climbing at a moderate grade.

Easy scramble up into scoop on R side of cave. Steep L trending line up scoops and crack on headwall. Jamming crux will make you think you’re at Frog! Possibly 22? Repeaters can decide.

First 2 bolts of Water Line then bust out left and up punching thru a few cruxes. Most excellent.

Fun, pumpy, punchy climbing on great rock up the short steep wall.

Last line before the wall rounds the bend. Quality micro-route. Easy start, hard boulder problem direct through the shield, pumpy little finish.

Start off the terrace above the previous routes. Short and intense. Heel, toe, gut busting core. Turn the lip to the anchors (double bolts) however back cleaning required.

The arete as the track rounds the bend. Gets a bit dirty up high

Face right of arete. Shares last bolt and anchors with Bruce. Can also share 1st bolt with Bruce, but isn’t required. 5FHs, 6FHs if using Bruce’s first.

Starts a few meters to the right of Bruce and Nemo. Stick clip the first bolt. A climb needing some thought.

The following trad lines are found 30m up the hill on the cracked wall. One set of cams and two packs of wires is sufficient, all routes have shared bolted anchors.

Begin just right of and behind big tree. Bouldery climbing up steep leatherback wall on good gear. Good gear in roof crack then traverse right to join tuvula and finish up that.

The obvious steep juggy crack, at break traverse left a move or two then up face with a committing move to chains.

Same start as Tuvula but take the right hand crack.

Undercut start then up the steep left leaning crack. Break directly up the gently overhung white streak. Super solid features with good gear, shares anchors with Guam.

Load up the crack, punch out roof and mantle into blankness joining into Pitcairn. Bold.

Start up black streak right of chimney, fiddly gear to flake followed by sustained face climbing to shared anchors with Kiribati.

Cracked face near the right end of the buttress, climb this to a shallow corner and a thank god ledge. Thought provoking gear in the top.

Located hidden up the gully just beyond the trad wall. This route and MbP both climb the slabby pillar and then the living-room sized boulder wedged between the walls. TU is the left route directly up the guts. A closed project for now.

Climb pillar with funky moves to gain boulder then traverse R. Bouldery, punchy moves up arete to top out. Single bolt lower-off however easier to back jump and clean.

10min walk east of Sayonara Bitches along the cliff base, facing east. Stick clip first bolt. Start in centre left of cave and follow the obvious rib through the overhang onto the slightly hung headwall.

Start 2m right of BSB, Superman start into the roof following obvious line to headwall. Joining BSB at its 4th bolt.

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please car pool to minimise parking problems (lots of parking at the highway turnoff). There have been complaints so please be quiet and respectful. Please approach via the land atop Ocean Vista Drive which is now under Sunshine Coast Council ownership as part of the Mt. Ninderry reserve. Use the turning circle at the end of the road and park Vehicles with 4 wheels on the road and not blocking the fire trail to allow access for emergency vehicles if required. Don’t use the carparks in the turning circle. Be respectful and low key. In particular,

• use QUIET voices on arrival and on the walk-ins - noise travels.
• Don’t linger over beers or cooking up noodles after climbing and definitely NO OVERNIGHT STAYS.
• All dogs at the location must be on leash at all times.
• Don’t urinate in front of houses (yes there’s been complaints!).

This is a peaceful residential neighbourhood, so we want to be good stewards of climbing. The 15 min walk brings you out near Enter the Ninja arête.

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please car pool to minimise parking problems (lots of parking at the highway turnoff). There have been complaints so please be quiet and respectful. Please approach via the land atop Ocean Vista Drive which is now under Sunshine Coast Council ownership as part of the Mt. Ninderry reserve. Use the turning circle at the end of the road and park Vehicles with 4 wheels on the road and not blocking the fire trail to allow access for emergency vehicles if required. Don’t use the carparks in the turning circle. Be respectful and low key. In particular,

• use QUIET voices on arrival and on the walk-ins - noise travels.
• Don’t linger over beers or cooking up noodles after climbing and definitely NO OVERNIGHT STAYS.
• All dogs at the location must be on leash at all times.
• Don’t urinate in front of houses (yes there’s been complaints!).

This is a peaceful residential neighbourhood, so we want to be good stewards of climbing. The 15 min walk brings you out near Enter the Ninja arête.

Area of buttresses with the proud arête of Enter the Ninja in the middle.

Face and arete L of ER crack. Accessed from P1 of FitS. 5BR to anchors. Diagonalling left, this diminutive route packs a whallup. Committing blind moves down low, tricky all the way to the anchors. Mind the tree.

Delicately ascend through the large easy vegetated gully. Use long slings to reduce drag for 2nd half or break the whole climb into 2 pitches. Traverse right at the easy ground for 4 meters to the obvious crack. Plug in your gear and enjoy pro until about 3 meters from the top where you break left to easier ground. Tree belay. Easy walk to Katana. Very loose large stuff at top-out.

10BR to anchors (+1 optional belay bolt on ledge). Moderate ledge-y stuff on P1 then sweeeet clean face above. Belay on ledge a good idea (grade 18, 5BR to there) but reasonable as a single pitch with a few long runners in the first half and an attentive belay. From the ledge, get your crimp action on. A thin bouldery section is followed by excellent edging up an immaculate steep wall to anchors.

This is a quality crack climb with solid exposure, committing moves and an off-width crack to finish. Take a #6 Cam and plenty of extendable draws/slings to minimise drag. Start 2 meters right of FiTS on ground level. Climb up and right to sling the obvious tree and then carefully traversing left again to the base of the obvious crack line. (This first section is a bit dangerous, so you may want to start at this ledge instead of the ground.) Follow the crack and choose the left-hand line at the fork, power up the off-width to the top. Belay from the tree or further back. Descend from any of the chains around the top of Katana.

Face and rooflet between unclimbed wide crack and SA. Climb pitch1 of FitS then R to belay. Thin edges, a bouldery section, then quest to glory with exciting, but moderate, climbing through the exposed overhang.

Climb the (somewhat green!) crack and flake L of enter the ninja, with some interference from the tree. Head L on the ledge and up the crack dissecting the bulging buttress. Take care with the chockstones and blocks up high to topout on ledge w/ anchors.

Other side of arete from ETN. Use long runner on first bolt of ETN then L around arête to high FH on face. Jugs and crimps to the break. A move L on edges sets you up to attack the face. Sustained crimping over the bulge leads back to the arête and a welcome FH. Up arete to break, final bolt (long runner) and anchors of ETN.

Arete RHS. High first bolt near arete. Somewhat engaging climbing requiring a steady hand. Should one be seized with fear, or suffer a sudden palsy up high, then disaster is imminent.

Bouldery start (don't use tree, yes sensei!) a few metres to the right of ETN. Move left at second bolt onto face with some thin climbing before encountering a steep top with chain just below lip.

Natural corner system between Swordsman and Neo Nasi Goreng. Bit of a doddle until the pleasurable body jamming at the end.

Starts two metres left of TPPP in corner crack. Climbs easily up crack till prow is reached at second bolt (optional small cam beneath second bolt). Tough move through prow and sustained climbing follows, which trends slightly left the whole way. Lower off just before ledge.

A hard crux through the roof, especially for the vertically challenged, followed by fun cranking over a bucket or two, to an exciting topout.

A hidden gem! Up Potbelly then veer R at the last bolt (long draw) and downclimb behind the pillar into the cave. Belay second with care off the first bolt of Airbender. The route climbs the back wall then steep L trending rib. At the top resist the temptation to step back and climb past the last bolt and onto the ledge. Exit left to tree belay then rap off anchors above ETN (rusty) or around the corner above Katana. Quite an adventure!

Starts uphill from ETN and climbs the wild scooped out overhang up high. Bit of a ramble, however, the top 6 metres is the steepest 20 you'll ever climb!

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please car pool to minimise parking problems (lots of parking at the highway turnoff). There have been complaints so please be quiet and respectful. Please approach via the land atop Ocean Vista Drive which is now under Sunshine Coast Council ownership as part of the Mt. Ninderry reserve. Use the turning circle at the end of the road and park Vehicles with 4 wheels on the road and not blocking the fire trail to allow access for emergency vehicles if required. Don’t use the carparks in the turning circle. Be respectful and low key. In particular,

• use QUIET voices on arrival and on the walk-ins - noise travels.
• Don’t linger over beers or cooking up noodles after climbing and definitely NO OVERNIGHT STAYS.
• All dogs at the location must be on leash at all times.
• Don’t urinate in front of houses (yes there’s been complaints!).

This is a peaceful residential neighbourhood, so we want to be good stewards of climbing. The 15 min walk brings you out near Enter the Ninja arête.

Includes large south facing Ocean Vista Wall, Lower tier and Past lower Tier. Routes are listed R to L. This wall is in shade from about 10:30am in summer and all day in winter. Aug-Dec it’s recommended to stay off Ninja Tactics and all routes to the left of it due to Perigrine Falcons nesting nearby.

The following routes exist on the large south facing Ocean Vista Wall. Routes are listed R to L. This wall is in shade from about 10:30am in summer and all day in winter. Follow the steps up gully to access the sector which bring you out below Zazen.

The furthest R route on this sector, behind the rock arch. Climb wall to ledge in cave. Monkey up R side of scoop, power through sustained cruxy bulge, and up moderate headwall to the world’s end. Use long runners in cave. Harder than the original 24 since hold broke.

Middle line out of cave. If lead in one pitch, anchor in and pull the rope through the first 4 draws before proceeding to reduce drag.

Not bad in it's own right. May have suffered a broken hold...

7 bolts from the cave to anchors. Climb as for FC to the cave. This is the L line directly above the anchors. Severe Body-English is necessary to solve the boulder problem out the cave. The climbing eases significantly as the angle relents, though still keeps you punching through the overlap. To minimise drag, safety into the first anchors and pull the rope through before continuing.

9 BR to anchors. Deceptively steep face and blunt arête. Pumpy. Not for the feint of heart with a little funky rock and an engaging crux. Stick to the line and no traversing way off R into the cave.

Shares the start with it's twin, then L onto the ledge. Direct up following the vertical seam through the crimpy face. Maybe a tad contrived but does not climb the easy stuff out L. Trend R above hard section to join the top of DDR.

Straight up the centre of the chimney working your way in and out of a series of scoops. 9 hangers to anchors. Chossy start but gets better. Belayer wear a helmet!

Traverse R along fixed rope. Grey face/arete. Stick clip first bolt and start up crack. Punchy and sustained little route with long moves between good holds.

Good compression boulder problem then glory to the chains!

Start carefully up arete to big hueco and first bolt. A hard mid section leads to sustained and committing climbing all the way to the chains. Don't mistake the last bolt with the mallion on it for the finish - double bolt anchors at the top.

Named after an angry former inhabitant! Start in the back of the black cave. Burly climbing through cool hanging features. The sustained headwall still packs a bite!

Direct start of funnel web, stick clip second bolt and start up crack in middle of wall. Continue up staying on left hand side of bolts. Great climbing.

Begin in L side of cave, around the arete and up face to anchors of NT. Uber sustained from the get go until the break.

Link up. First two bolts of Kill Bill to its third FH (but don't clip it) before traversing R into Funnel Web at its third FH and finishing up this.

The following three routes are located on a small lower tier of rock under the main cliff. To access, fix a rope to the bolt at the top of the gully, just beneath the start of Funnel Web, and abseil down.

On the little wall down gully below FW. Though short, this route has sustained technical climbing with a diabolical crux. Gets lichen.

L of STL. Tough crux, but fall-offable all the way!

L of CKKC. Good little route with a few difficult sections and an excellent warmup for the harder stuff around here.

Belay from base of large tree with off width above. Head up vegetated corner on surprisingly good holds and gear to small cave. Climb up to offwidth above cave and continue along crack with good pro and holds until it peters out below grassy ledge. Wrestle grass trees and lack of rock to the left to find a way up to small headwall above. Climb headwall gingerly to belay from a couple of small trees on upper ocean vista ledge.

Start at the base of the large pillar as you round the track after passing stairs to lower tier. Start up diagonal offwidth until standing at small open corner at head wall with small meandering crack above. Plug in some gear and pull onto headwall trending slightly left up centre of pillar on small wires and cams. Head for bolted belay at top left hand side of pillar. Excellent movement throughout with a great variety of holds and adequate protection. Can walk off back of pillar to Lower tier.

Now back up to Ocean Vista Wall above...

The direct on Kill Bill. Start R of NT at the crack. 3 bolts to join KB at the end of the traverse. The climb goes just R of bolt 3 (the patina prevented bolts from being placed further R). Sustained pinches, underclings, sidepulls. Tough 2nd clip, but for full value avoid stickclipping it.

Clip first bolt from the narrow ledge and pull onto the hard start. Pumpy pocketed face. Avoid traversing R for a giant rest on the jug of KB and add a grade and a star. A classic route but best avoided between Aug-Dec as the local falcon has a habit of greeting would-be ascentionists at very high speeds.

Dappled face veering R to a tricky clip at the 5th bolt, then directly up into the cave. Don't finish here! Use a very long draw then up and R onto the giant fang with a bolt on the tip, questing heroically to the anchors on the headwall.

Start at the fine crack to the left of Sho Kosugi with the overhanging offwidth through the cave above. Look up in awe at the overhanging crack to lip. Climb on great holds and gear to exciting finale exiting overhang onto face above. Did I say finale? Traverse right then left with horrendous drag till you reach a large block to belay your second from. Fist bump and wander through scrub to top out. Note*** Beware loose rock at lip

SK into cave, then L line of bolts out cave to very top of wall. Do not confuse to 2 bolts with fixed gear on them (wtf?) at the top of the cave for the anchors, it keeps going. Exposed exciting finish!

Face and blunt arete just L of crack. Joins COYS in cave.

A squeeze, but so what. Shares first bolt with Five Point. Goes a little L after bolt 3 into the underclings. Shares a few holds with COYS before busting R and up. Same top as the others. Can certainly be done punching R lower on some cool intense side pulls at 23 but is unfortunately contrived.

Stickclip recommended. Use long draw in cave. Beware loose rock in top section but it doesn't detract from the experience.

Starts just right of the large grass tree. Stickclip first bolt and step off block to venture up overhanging rib on good holds with some punchy moves on small headwall above. Carefully to anchor. Shares last bolt with Anagrams or just run it out. *Please respect resident Falcon