A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Trackside area
25 in Sector
- 1.1. Dog Rooter Arete boulder 4 in Area
- 1.2. Freestyle Boulder 1 in Area
- 1.3. Trackside Boulder 17 in Area
- 1.4. Flare Boulders 3 in Boulder
- 2. Index by grade
1. Trackside area 25 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -30.463380, 151.371046
description
The area immediately to the north from the car park
access issues
The majority of the bouldering and climbing at Yarrowyck is located on private property, and the land owner was a climber and has granted access to all climbers anytime, EXCEPT for all crags east of the ridge line which are too close to the land owners house and are off limits, in particular 'Captain Pugwash Memorial Buttress'.
Please do not leave garbage around, leave gates as you find them and do not harass stock. Climbing at Yarrowyck is a privilege, not a right.
The access tracks are in the Nature Reserve which is managed by NPWS which takes you to the Aboriginal Rock Art site. Bouldering or climbing in the reserve is not clear so please avoid this and check the boundaries when exploring.
https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/mount-yarrowyck-nature-reserve
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1.1. Dog Rooter Arete boulder 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -30.462786, 151.370860
description
As you walk along the track 100m, after some steps you see this very obviously cleaned arete just a couple meters of the left.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Arete left
Layback the arete to the left | V3 | 3m | |||||
| 2 |
★★★ Dog Rooter Arete
Layback the arete to the right | V4 | 3m | |||||
| 3 |
★ Hard
Start on glued hold, move up and balance your way through thinness to mantle | V6 | 3m | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Nice rockover
Start on glued hold, up and right | V3 | 3m | |||||
1.2. Freestyle Boulder 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -30.463466, 151.370789
approach
From the Clean Arete Boulder, backtrack approximately 50m towards the car park on the main walking track until you see the boulder with the obvious crack line.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ The Kraken
SDS then up layback crack to fist/hand crack and through overhang to finish Slightly tricky landing, more pads are better. FA: James vilimaa, Colin Cowell & Chris Eather, 18 Feb 2018 | V1 | 3m | |||
1.3. Trackside Boulder 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -30.463227, 151.371150
description
From the clean arete boulder, back track 20m and find the faint old track that leads up hill. Only 50m along is the Trackside Boulder.
TOPO to be redone:
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Trust in The Wind
Climb the imposing arete from a sit start, finishing up the left face. FA: Callum Mather, 2024 | V10 | 5m | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Breakfast in Las Vegas
Long sequence of technical moves to top | {FR} V8 | ||||||
| 3 | Breakfast in Las Vegas Sit Start | V9 | ||||||
| 4 |
Dingojism
Burly start easing to top | V8 | ||||||
| 5 |
★★ Jingoism
Heads right from start hold | V7 | 3m | |||||
| 6 |
Tim's Problem
Long sequence of technical moves to top (Not!) | V7 | ||||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 7 |
Pinch Me
SDS from detatched flake and dyno to lip via pinch rail before topping out. A right hand hold below the pinch rail has broken, leaving the problem a little harder. It still awaits a post break FA. FA: Fred Nicole, 2000 | V10 | ||||||
| 8 |
★★★ Vampire Dagger
SDS at pointy jug with detached block for feet, climb right and up on crimps. FA: Fred Nicole, 2000 | V11 | ||||||
| 9 |
★★ New Beginning Sit Start
SDS The start flake has recently broken off, leaving the problem much harder. It still awaits a post-break FA. | V6 | ||||||
| 10 |
★★ New Beginning
Up groove from edges to slopers | V6 | 4m | |||||
| 11 |
★★ Eternal Dyno
Dyno to sloping lip from large edges | V6 | 2m | |||||
| 12 |
★★ Gordo's Project
Up from glued sidepull to long edge then left to hold at lip and mantle. | V8 | ||||||
| 13 |
Kyle's Moment of Glory
Obscure and crap, intensely reachy. | V8 | ||||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 14 |
★★★ L'Envers du Decors / The Backstage
SDS. Follows obvious crack to the left and up, either staying underneath on slopey holds or trending high and using underclings. FA: Fred Nicole, 2000 | V11 | ||||||
| 15 |
Smashed Cow Hide
Start as for 'L'envers du decors' then up to crimps at break and on to the arete to finish up 'Thumb Power' | V6 | ||||||
| 16 |
Thumb Power
Technical Trad stuff in groove | V4 | ||||||
| 17 |
★★ Mantle Depressant
Defiant Mantle | V7 | ||||||
1.4. Flare Boulders 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -30.463884, 151.371231
description
A small cluster of boulders 200m South of the Trackside Boulder, with a prominent detached flake at the base of the largest boulder.
approach
Head towards the Trackside Boulder, cutting off the track and straight up the hill for about 50m. Easily visible from the main walking track.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
2 Stage Flare
Sit start on the blocks at the base of the detached flake. Up and left-ish to the lip, then a fun mantle and wander up the runnels. FA: Russ Best, 25 Mar 2017 | V2 | 3m | |||||
| 2 |
★ Slap and Tickle
Stand start pinching the left arete. Some balancey, technical moves to get you established on the only feature on the face, then smear and slap your way to victory. FA: Russ Best, 25 Mar 2017 | V4 | 3m | |||||
| 3 |
Baby Crack
A novel little crack around the back of Slap and Tickle. FA: Russ Best, 25 Mar 2017 | V0 | 2m | |||||
