Routes in Hunter Valley

Nice hand jam crack

Pad on ledge

Pad on ledge

Up arete, sit start the big undercling

Sit start to the big hole

Traverse low then up.

Sit Start at diagonal right of arete, follow to arete then easily up.

Sit start under arete and pull on by pocket just left of arete. Feet up.

Ocean side sloper arete

Left side up arete and slab

The centre of the wall with all the huecos SS.chose hold carefully

Up the middle of the black slab on tiny feet

Sit down start, up arete trending right

Nice climbing on positive holds between Battered Whiting and Hips & Tips

layback the thin seam from a sit down

Sit down start- the leaning corner, might be V3 if you are short

sit down start trending left

Up the slab just right of the leaning flake.

Up the faint crack in the middle.

Traverse right onto slab above overhang

Up the middle of the slab in the zawn.

Follow the very long flake up.

Start on the shelf and go further up using the arete.

Up mantle step left to arete and up

Yes you can stand on the broken flake up high.

Climb the highball arete to the broken hold shelf, then top out slightly left.

Chimney left of fin arete with rock fins

Straight up the fin, pinching the fin edge only.

Start 10 m to the right on block and traverse left on side of platform, rising into offwidth corner crack to top out

Climb the ridged line on the face using the edge and some perfectly placed pockets. Great ocean views and exposure.

Up fused corner avoiding diagonal

Up into Left rising diagonal line

Left of wing span. Sidepull start and up the little shelves.

very fun and very morpho boulder. Stand start hands on either side.

The wide hand crack

Left facing corner before next step up

5m right of Wing Span on little platform. Sit start and up short crack

Belay from black rock at the base just inland from 'DWS wall'. Up 4 ring bolts and top onto 2 ring bolts.

The great flake on the south/western side. Needs some lower belay bolts.

Nice crack lower down, moving left halfway or so to finish at the biggish pockets. Single carrot near the top.

The flaring but good crack on climber's left/south of Licked. Just below and to the left of the single top carrot. Start on the obvious platform. Grade is all in the hard last move.

Triple Hex Bolt Belay on north side, east end.

South side Triple Hex Belay. Opposite eastern-most bolt. Bridge.

South side Triple Hex Belay. Opposite Eastern-most bolt, FACE only, to right of mini arete feature.

South side Triple Hex Belay. Opposite western-most bolt. Bridge.

South Side Triple Hex Belay. Opposite western-most bolt. Face only. Crimps to hollow sounding flake (take care) to duo pocket and up.

Top rope from trees and cracks on northern side, 2 metres inland from the triple bolt belay. Where bedrock basalt meets the sand. Bridge.

From Toprope belay as for STEM, follow the series of flakes (security not guaranteed!). FACE ONLY. Starts from the basalt on the floor where it peaks.

Bridge the narrowest part of the slot. 3m inland from STEM and Slit Lamp. Toprope anchor from shrubs and cracks.

From toprope anchor of The Narrows. Right side, following large side pull feature. FACE only.

From toprope anchor of The Narrows, left side through easy. FACE only.

Use trad anchor and follow side-pull features on south wall opposite Dire Straits. FACE only.

Climb on high tide, boulder underwater quite shallow

Traverse from bottom right to top left past 'DWS 1'

Double ropes and small wires and C3s handy. Crux well protected. Note that the topo in the Haasnoot guide is incorrect. Vlad goes direct through the towering blocks (the spikes with which one impales). Someone has placed DUB anchor.

The right line. Nice moves to some thin crimps.

Start as for STB, but move out left after the first bolt on fixed hangers.

The corner in the middle of wall to thin face moves

Start up flakes to new second bolt, then past horizontal break to DBB

Start as for Resurgence but go left on small RBs.

The left hand route. Tough start then some nice thin moves to top, anchor has 2 figure 8's through U bolt..

Hex bolts from platform on north facing wall, just to right of easy corner. Double carrots at top and bottom. Access by jumping across the water, using a plank to cross, or abseiling in.

Fixed Hangers. Abseil in or carefuly walk down the slab on the left hand side

6 Ring bolts. Abseil in or carefuly walk down the slab on the left hand side. Belay from first the two ring bolts on the small platform above water.

Top rope anchors only. Belay from the two ring bolts on the small platform above water

Access from North side (The Surge side). FHs.

Climb the left side arete