Routes in Hunter Valley

Originally done on trad but now fully bolted, 2 m right of Fagan. Continue up wall over 2 ledges past trees to anchors near top of wall

Sharp pockets veering right at top

Start under flake

The black streak. Over a bulge and 2 bolts to ledge then tricky moves off ledge. Anchors high on wall above upper ledge

The right most route starting up the gully, to the top of pinnacle. Up on face holds to ledge then some bouldery moves to anchor.

the left arete to shared anchors

Straight up the middle of the face to anchors without using aretes. The bolts on the left work better for protection.

The right hand arete of the triangular boulder

Left hand route through juggy steep territory to traverse right to anchors

Centre of wall into thin crack and shared anchors with HH. Clip a high bolt on HH to protect the moves leading to the crack.

Climb the right side of the wall via a series of incut edges and slots

Up left of grass tree

Up R of grass tree, on the whiter rock. High first bolt, up to shared lower off over the top.

Jug up wall to shared anchors with B

Start low up crimpy overhung wall

Rough hand crack to left of corner. Walk back to tree

Up the block that looks like a massive chockstone to left of corner on jugs. Avoid bridging for maximum fun until having to reach out right to shared anchors

Bridge up corner clipping bolts to right (the crux)

Up through overlap with initial thin moves to juggy finish at shared anchors

Step left around arete with technical moves and follow seam up to juggy finish. Watch the loose block at the start.

Up slab to the juggy crack up high, anchors at top

As for Good One Jono, but traverse out right to finish as for Jane.

Up thin seam to clean spot on wall, anchors above in the lichen.

Thin crack 2m right of Jane.

Up blunt arete with hard moves down low, then jug blissfully to top anchors

Start in the small corner, step left at the small roof, follow blunt arete to finish as for Beirut.

Start around arete on the slab and up wide crack to tree, anchors behind on boulder.

Up the green chimney then step left across into corner/crack system to DBB

The crack left of the chimney of TT, step left around arete to anchors when it peters out.

Mixed gear, continue right from the top of fern crack

Stick clip first bolt, then boulder to ledge. Slab and arete climbing to anchors at half height of wall, best to continue to top lower off.

The left route, up to ledge, long draw on bolt to right then follow bolts until traverse right to shared lower off.

From the shared anchors of Johnny 1 or Johnny 2 continue up and step left at roof past 4 more bolts to fixed carabiners at DBB

2m left of the arete, same start as for Wilcox, but continue going left, up to separate lower off.

Start in the small alcove, up through small rooflet, then follow crack to anchors. Climb on fixed hangers.

Start as for Ned Kelly, but go left and up the crack/offwidth.

The side of slabby pinnacle just left of main boiler wall, 6 hox bolts and 1 RB. Common anchors for all 4 routes on top of block.

Start from toe of arete and up. Hex bolts.

Start from platform and step right and up staying left of arete until final moves. Hex Bolts.

In the gully between slab and wall on the left, up hex bolts staying right of the gully, to anchor on top. P2: Continue all the way to the top of the wall on gear. Hex bolts on P1.

Route starts on platform left of Slab 1. 1st Bolt its on right side of arete, then follow the crack around to the left. Face climbing to the top. DBB.

The left route on the wall. A tough start leads to some wandering climbing.

On the pinnacle immediately below the track , below left arete of boiler wall. Left route.

On the pinnacle imediately below track, below left arete of boiler wall. Right route. Goes to shared anchors

Route on 4 carrots at left end of wall. 1 RB and 1 bolt on top of block

Up very steep wall past assorted FHs and RBs to new anchor on top of block

Up seam past scoop to downward facing flake. Watch the snake

Overhanging left facing flake

Up shattered looking seams to offwidth section then left to shared anchors of time to fly

Mistakenly retrobolted. Starts up lime tree arbour and crosses to TTF

Steep looking offwidth. Climbs well. DRB anchors in situ.

Past bomber trad placements, or high stick clip, 2 RBs to anchors

Past one carrot into crack.

5 glue in bolts (need bolt plates) to shared ring bolt anchors with crack

Up the crack line after intricate start that needs small gear.

From the ledge head up the flake then onto the left arete to own set of anchors to left of arete

To the right of the left arete (closest to the lookout track)

Pitch 1: right trending diagonal to belay on sloping ledge 12m. Pitch 2 up to roof and diagonally left up crack 12m. Pitch 3: up overhanging corner right (crux) topull onto lichenous slab and meander up this for another 20 metres.

Up past thin crack to ledge then diagonally right through overlap

Thin diagonal crack on wall with sapling at half height. Dirty, but possible to top rope now from anchors of CC. Takes thin gear

Start up cracks to high first bolt then up arete moving right to anchor

Climb the north facing wall just left of corner chimney.

Start 3m downhill of Aussie Ocker, tricky start to gain left trending crack that gets better as you get up higher. A cruxy move at 3rd bolt climbs moves around right on the arete. Head up trending slightly right towards Aussie Ocker, bouldery move from last bolt to the anchors of Aussie Ocker. Best 24 on the East side of the mountain!

Just left of arete, up to diagonal flake, then trend right and continue up to high lower off.

Left route on the main wall before the gully/chimney.

Using both walls, climb the line of bolts in the chasm between the 2 main walls. It will be the hardest grade 12 ever if short.

As for A, but up the left side of the chasm between the two main walls as a face climb

Crack at left side of chasm to tree, then continue up arete with little gear to anchors of BB/A.

On white wall on FHs, 2m R of GATG. Starting right of 1st FH, delicate moves across left to gain good holds. Sneaky moves lead you past 2nd FH and onto ledge. Funky moves to stand up and get next break. Follow rising ramp to left to do a delicate stand up and gain final ledge and anchors. Great moves and some unusual climbing, super fun!

The great smooth white rock. Thin moves up to good jugs before the final sequence.

Start up hanging chimney below the left arête of the Grandpa and the Goanna wall. Up chimney then follow bolts up and right.

Start up in gully at right end of wall on lovely orange rock past 3 RBs

Start just right of offwidth following thin crack and funky threader to diagonal crack trending right at 2/3 height to finish on anchors of WTP

The offwidth. At top of crack place some small gear and step left to anchors of PE

1m left of crack up white crack into orange alcove, then after clipping 3rd bolt step left onto arete and up.

The left route on hex bolts. Often dirty from runoff on the wall above.

1m right of route on FHs. Climb thin crack with RP protection, finishing directly up the unprotected slab.

Up the slab past 3 fixed hangers, often covered in dirt and pine needles. Anchors are under there somewhere.

bold climbing up the white streak several metres left of FH route. An old hanger less bolt stud at half height offers the only protection, though is after the crux.

Now has RB at start- stick clip, then small trad gear passing final RB and up to shared anchors

4 bolts in about 17m. Small cam will go between 2nd and 3rd bolt . Start 2m left of crack that bisects wall.

The tree is only a stump now. Up to shared anchors to left

Up home made FHs passing small ledge to large ledge. Small wires then needed for pro, to final bolt and up to DRBB

Awkward and overhung start onto dirty slab. Go up to ledge then left to finish as for route on FHs

After reachng ledge go right. Belayer cannot see from ground, so best to do as a second pitch. Very bouldery up diagonal to own DBB

Start under corner/rooflet heading right after bulge to avoid the orchids

The arete to the left of the chimney

The bolted climb on the left of the chimney.

From inside chimney start as for Direct staircase but go striaght up through roof to same anchors. A medium cam may help below roof if draw is not on. A bit run out and lichenous.