A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Murray Cadeyn Mclellan Chalky Nick Eastment Brendan Heywood Brett H Martijn van Eijkelenborg Pierre Segonne Alec Landstra Nate
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Greenfields Beach
32 in Sector
- 1.1. Alien Wall 14 in Sector
- 1.2. Slowly Sinking Shelf 6 in Sector
- 1.3. The Breech 8 in Sector
- 1.4. Fine China 4 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Greenfields Beach 32 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -35.091549, 150.693242
description
Multiple pads recommended as some of the landings are not great! Picnic area with bbqs and toilets right next to beach and parking.
access issues
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
approach
Drive pretty much as far along Elizabeth Drive as possible. You will come to an intersection on a sharp right hand bend, take the left which leads to a parking area for Greenfields Beach.
descent notes
Follow the path leading over the footbridge. After about 100m the path will be leading uphill and there will be some clear sections in the scrub to the left (sea side). Wander down through this and to the rock platform. This puts you directly above Alien Wall (easy down climb). To the right around the corner is Slowly Sinking Shelf and further again is The Breech.
ethic
Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.
1.1. Alien Wall 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -35.089722, 150.693305
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★ The Wet Spot
Begin at the far right of the shelf. Traverse left and use a wide grip to avoid the first corner (if you don't like the rock). Keep moving to the left feet on the lower shelf campus or throw a heel up. do this all the way to the nose and easy top out. Take the no hand rest if you like before topping for a great upside-down view of point perp. Just how wet your spotter will get depends on the tide FA: Vinny the Sea Eagle, 10 Jul 2018 | V1 | 2m | |||||
2 |
Predator
Start on the lower shelf. heel hook or cramped campus. Up and out. Hit the super fun/easy Dyno for extra style points. FA: arnold s | V1 | 3m | |||||
3 |
Rock face
Closed project. needs a little cleaning. FA: daryl jones | V1 | 2m | |||||
4 |
Over the rainbow
Get down low then start on the left hand sloper and right hand on the horizontal triangle. Campus or throw your feet out to the darker rock. None of the lower blocks are in. Straight up and over the rainbow rock. Two mats or a good spotter would be nice the fall isn't great. FA: Bishop, 13 Oct 2018 | V1 | 2m | |||||
5 |
★ Shiro
Start on the lower lower shelf. move up right following the obvious line. FA: daryl jones | V1 | 2m | |||||
6 |
★ Facehugger
Get down in the hole, sit starting on the 2nd lowest shelf (go from the lower if you want!) and move up into the small prow. Move to the left and top out between both prows. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V1 | 2m | |||||
7 |
★ Alien
Just right of Facehugger. Straight up from low shelf. | V1 | 2m | |||||
8 |
Dweller
Sit start with horizontal double hand jam. Up to knob then out left to side pulls before reaching straight for the top out. FA: David Shelton, 29 Jun 2021 | V2 | 2m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
★ Xenomorph
The Alien head shaped prow. Sit start on the low sloping shelf and move up and under the Alien head via a shouldery move. Desperate top out over the prow. FA: Liam Healy | V5 | 2m | |||||
10 |
★ Nostradamus
Start as Nostromo and go left to drop into undercling and topout. Mind the loose block above the start hold. | V2 | ||||||
11 |
★★ Nostromo
Low start on the juggy hole. Move up and right under the roof, make a blind move out left to the sloper around the lip on the face. Top out straight up. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V4 | 3m | |||||
12 |
★★ Arnie
Starting jug of Nostromo, right across the prow and top out Unnamed. FA: Nick Choy, 19 Jan 2021 | V5 | ||||||
13 |
★ Ripley
Stand start on crimps in the corner. Move out on jugs to the prow, high feet into the undercut and top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 26 Jul 2018 | V5 | 3m | |||||
14 |
★ Unnamed
Stand start in corner on crimps. Move right and out following the crack and top. FA: Jake Noblett | V5 | 4m |
1.2. Slowly Sinking Shelf 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -35.090635, 150.693446
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Port In A Storm
Crouch start on the ledge under the roof. Move up and right through the roof to the "headwall", move left to top out at the arete. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V1 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★ Row Row Row Your Boat
Crouch start on the ledge under the roof. Move out through roof and follow crack up. Tricky top out. Probably V2 but I found the top out horrible... FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V3 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★★ Thar She Blows
Crouch start on the ledge under the roof. Move out of roof then pop to top of arete. Top out straight up. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V3 | 3m | |||||
4 |
Keelhaul
Crouch start on the ledge under the roof. Move right to arete and then up. No bridging . FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V0 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★ Homage to Catalonia
Sit start on obvious underclings. Big move to lip before strenuous mantle and top-out. Obviously, the chockstone to your left is out. FA: Brett H, 5 Dec 2018 | V3 | 3m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Weedy Sea Dragon
Sit start with feet on under ledge and using pocket on the face. Continue straight up to top out using the sloper. Short and punchy V1/V2 FA: Nick Eastment, 2018 | V2 | 2m |
1.3. The Breech 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -35.092039, 150.694071
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ One Nation
Crouch start on low positive sloper, move up and right into 5 Nations and top out direct. FA: Jack Folkes, 26 Jul 2018 | V3 | 3m | |||||
2 |
Sir Gawain
Easy route, starting on the obvious side pulls, straight up to top out. FA: Cadeyn Mclellan | V0 | 3m | |||||
3 |
5 Nations / New Year resolution
Start with foot on higher ledge and holds at face level. Move over to left to top out. FA: Chalky, 31 Dec 2015 | V0 | 2m | |||||
4 |
★ Quench and Temper
Slung start off the thin flared ear with a heel hook up. Move out left to thin scoop and right to undercling scoop and punch up to lip. Out right to giant handlebar to assist topout. Thin looking holds but they haven't broken yet! FA: Murray, 26 Jun 2020 | V2 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★★★ King Arthur
Epic, scary and dangerous. Only the true king shall claim the crown. Start with feet low, hands on the little protruding rock at the corner. Move across, half way to the ledge. Using the 2 slopers get up to the ridge. No using the ledge to the right, or the rocks behind you. Then traverse back around the corner to the amazing letter box hold around the corner and top out on that side of the wall. FA: Cadeyn Mclellan | V3 | 6m | |||||
6 |
★★ Breeched Bro
Starts a couple of metres right of 5 Nations. Standing start left of the nose. Traverse right until you can step onto the ledge at the end. FA: David Shelton, 1 Jul 2021 | V0 | 4m | |||||
7 |
★ Barrel
Sit start at the flake with the protruding rock behind you. Move slightly right and up. FA: David Shelton, 1 Jul 2021 | V1 | 2m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
The Green Knight
Start behind the tree, traverse across. hands on top of ridge, feet low. Then when you get to the boulder on top of the rigde top up straight out only using the wall you are on. No bridging, nor stemming. FA: Cadeyn Mclellan | V0 | 3m |
1.4. Fine China 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -35.092576, 150.693649
summary
Views for days!
description
Fine China. Stray from your line and the rock quality will be that of 1000 year old tea set thats been broken a few times. This being said the view is 3 stars. The beach is 3 stars. Forgot your mat? no problem soft sand landing. No shoes? no problem the problems are steep enough for you to not care.
access issues
This is a special area. Take care of it. King high tide may be a little wet.
approach
Walk the stairs and look to your left.
where to stay
find a Air BNB. Camp at the campgrounds. Link up with a local. Do not camp the rangers will get you for the big $$$$$$$$$
ethic
Brush it down if you chalk it up. No drilling, chipping or annoying! Please be mindful of the vegetation on the top of the line of climbs. A few fishermen and bong smokers have damaged sections. As climbers we should aim to tread lightly for the 4 steps back to the main path.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
DB
Start on the lower under rail. Move up and out gym style moves. Careful of the vegetated top out. FA: Hugh Harrison, 2018 | V1 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★★ Red lion
Sit start with a sandy butt. hands on the obvious sandy low rail. Move up and out over the lip through the best line of rock. Turn around at top, look at the dolphins. Go for a swim. Relax and know you have chosen the right life. FA: daryl jones | V1 | 3m | |||||
3 |
Blue lion
Begin on the slightly higher smaller rail. Move up and out to the left. Avoid the bad bad rock. FA: daryl jones | V0+ | 3m | |||||
4 |
black lion
Easy line up the big stuff. Great fun for those getting into the game. FA: daryl jones | VB | 2m |