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Greenfields Beach Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Cadeyn Mclellan Chalky Nick Eastment Brett H Martijn van Eijkelenborg Pierre Segonne Nate

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Greenfields Beach 32 routes in Sector

Summary:
J
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A
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S
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Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -35.091549, 150.693242

description

Multiple pads recommended as some of the landings are not great! Picnic area with bbqs and toilets right next to beach and parking.

access issues

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

inherited from New South Wales and ACT

approach

Drive pretty much as far along Elizabeth Drive as possible. You will come to an intersection on a sharp right hand bend, take the left which leads to a parking area for Greenfields Beach.

descent notes

Follow the path leading over the footbridge. After about 100m the path will be leading uphill and there will be some clear sections in the scrub to the left (sea side). Wander down through this and to the rock platform. This puts you directly above Alien Wall (easy down climb). To the right around the corner is Slowly Sinking Shelf and further again is The Breech.

ethic

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

inherited from Illawarra and Shoalhaven

1.1. Alien Wall 14 routes in Sector

Rock: Broken ledge

Low ledge at the start of Nostromo was broken 16/11/21 and fell on to climber that then had to go to hospital - be careful before pulling hard on holds here

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago
Summary:

Lat / Long: -35.089722, 150.693305

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Wet Spot

Begin at the far right of the shelf. Traverse left and use a wide grip to avoid the first corner (if you don't like the rock). Keep moving to the left feet on the lower shelf campus or throw a heel up. do this all the way to the nose and easy top out. Take the no hand rest if you like before topping for a great upside-down view of point perp. Just how wet your spotter will get depends on the tide

FA: Vinny the Sea Eagle, 10 Jul 2018

V1 Boulder 2m
2 Predator

Start on the lower shelf. heel hook or cramped campus. Up and out. Hit the super fun/easy Dyno for extra style points.

FA: arnold s

V1 Boulder 3m
3 Rock face

Closed project. needs a little cleaning.

V1 BoulderProject 2m
4 Over the rainbow

Get down low then start on the left hand sloper and right hand on the horizontal triangle. Campus or throw your feet out to the darker rock. None of the lower blocks are in. Straight up and over the rainbow rock. Two mats or a good spotter would be nice the fall isn't great.

FA: Bishop, 13 Oct 2018

V1 Boulder 2m
5 Shiro

Start on the lower lower shelf. move up right following the obvious line.

V1 Boulder 2m
6 Facehugger

Get down in the hole, sit starting on the 2nd lowest shelf (go from the lower if you want!) and move up into the small prow. Move to the left and top out between both prows.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V1 Boulder 2m
7 Alien

Just right of Facehugger. Straight up from low shelf.

V1 Boulder 2m
8 Dweller

Sit start with horizontal double hand jam. Up to knob then out left to side pulls before reaching straight for the top out.

FA: David Shelton, 29 Jun 2021

V2 Boulder 2m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 Xenomorph

The Alien head shaped prow. Sit start on the low sloping shelf and move up and under the Alien head via a shouldery move. Desperate top out over the prow.

FA: Liam Healy

V5 Boulder 2m
10 Nostradamus

Start as Nostromo and go left to drop into undercling and topout. Mind the loose block above the start hold.

V2 Boulder
11 Nostromo

Low start on the juggy hole. Move up and right under the roof, make a blind move out left to the sloper around the lip on the face. Top out straight up.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V4 Boulder 3m
12 Arnie

Starting jug of Nostromo, right across the prow and top out Unnamed.

FA: Nick Choy, 19 Jan 2021

V5 Boulder
13 Ripley

Stand start on crimps in the corner. Move out on jugs to the prow, high feet into the undercut and top out.

FA: Jack Folkes, 26 Jul 2018

V5 Boulder 3m
14 Unnamed

Stand start in corner on crimps. Move right and out following the crack and top.

FA: Jake Noblett

V5 Boulder 4m

1.2. Slowly Sinking Shelf 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -35.090635, 150.693446

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Port In A Storm

Crouch start on the ledge under the roof. Move up and right through the roof to the "headwall", move left to top out at the arete.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V1 Boulder 3m
2 Row Row Row Your Boat

Crouch start on the ledge under the roof. Move out through roof and follow crack up. Tricky top out. Probably V2 but I found the top out horrible...

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V3 Boulder 3m
3 Thar She Blows

Crouch start on the ledge under the roof. Move out of roof then pop to top of arete. Top out straight up.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V3 Boulder 3m
4 Keelhaul

Crouch start on the ledge under the roof. Move right to arete and then up. No bridging .

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V0 Boulder 3m
5 Homage to Catalonia

Sit start on obvious underclings. Big move to lip before strenuous mantle and top-out. Obviously, the chockstone to your left is out.

FA: Brett H, 5 Dec 2018

V3 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Weedy Sea Dragon

Sit start with feet on under ledge and using pocket on the face. Continue straight up to top out using the sloper. Short and punchy V1/V2

FA: Nick Eastment, 2018

V2 Boulder 2m

1.3. The Breech 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: -35.092039, 150.694071

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 One Nation

Crouch start on low positive sloper, move up and right into 5 Nations and top out direct.

FA: Jack Folkes, 26 Jul 2018

V3 Boulder 3m
2 Sir Gawain

Easy route, starting on the obvious side pulls, straight up to top out.

V0 Boulder 3m
3 5 Nations / New Year resolution

Start with foot on higher ledge and holds at face level. Move over to left to top out.

FA: Chalky, 31 Dec 2015

V0 Boulder 2m
4 Quench and Temper

Slung start off the thin flared ear with a heel hook up. Move out left to thin scoop and right to undercling scoop and punch up to lip. Out right to giant handlebar to assist topout. Thin looking holds but they haven't broken yet!

FA: Murray, 26 Jun 2020

V2 Boulder 3m
5 King Arthur

Epic, scary and dangerous. Only the true king shall claim the crown. Start with feet low, hands on the little protruding rock at the corner. Move across, half way to the ledge. Using the 2 slopers get up to the ridge. No using the ledge to the right, or the rocks behind you. Then traverse back around the corner to the amazing letter box hold around the corner and top out on that side of the wall.

V3 Boulder 6m
6 Breeched Bro

Starts a couple of metres right of 5 Nations. Standing start left of the nose. Traverse right until you can step onto the ledge at the end.

FA: David Shelton, 1 Jul 2021

V0 Boulder 4m
7 Barrel

Sit start at the flake with the protruding rock behind you. Move slightly right and up.

FA: David Shelton, 1 Jul 2021

V1 Boulder 2m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 The Green Knight

Start behind the tree, traverse across. hands on top of ridge, feet low. Then when you get to the boulder on top of the rigde top up straight out only using the wall you are on. No bridging, nor stemming.

V0 Boulder 3m

1.4. Fine China 4 routes in Area

Rock: Sand coverage hazard

The photo and description are not accurate, there is no longer a nice blanket of sand under the wall - there are now a large number of small/medium rocks and the elevation of the crag has gone up. I suspect the sand has washed out to sea.

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago
Summary:

Lat / Long: -35.092576, 150.693649

summary

Views for days!

description

Fine China. Stray from your line and the rock quality will be that of 1000 year old tea set thats been broken a few times. This being said the view is 3 stars. The beach is 3 stars. Forgot your mat? no problem soft sand landing. No shoes? no problem the problems are steep enough for you to not care.

access issues

This is a special area. Take care of it. King high tide may be a little wet.

approach

Walk the stairs and look to your left.

where to stay

find a Air BNB. Camp at the campgrounds. Link up with a local. Do not camp the rangers will get you for the big $$$$$$$$$

ethic

Brush it down if you chalk it up. No drilling, chipping or annoying! Please be mindful of the vegetation on the top of the line of climbs. A few fishermen and bong smokers have damaged sections. As climbers we should aim to tread lightly for the 4 steps back to the main path.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 DB

Start on the lower under rail. Move up and out gym style moves. Careful of the vegetated top out.

FA: Hugh Harrison, 2018

V1 Boulder 3m
2 Red lion

Sit start with a sandy butt. hands on the obvious sandy low rail. Move up and out over the lip through the best line of rock. Turn around at top, look at the dolphins. Go for a swim. Relax and know you have chosen the right life.

V1 Boulder 3m
3 Blue lion

Begin on the slightly higher smaller rail. Move up and out to the left. Avoid the bad bad rock.

V0+ Boulder 3m
4 black lion

Easy line up the big stuff. Great fun for those getting into the game.

VB Boulder 2m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
VB black lion Boulder 2m 1.4. Fine China
V0 Keelhaul Boulder 3m 1.2. Slowly Sinking Shelf
5 Nations Boulder 2m 1.3. The Breech
Breeched Bro Boulder 4m 1.3. The Breech
Sir Gawain Boulder 3m 1.3. The Breech
The Green Knight Boulder 3m 1.3. The Breech
V0+ Blue lion Boulder 3m 1.4. Fine China
V1 Alien Boulder 2m 1.1. Alien Wall
Facehugger Boulder 2m 1.1. Alien Wall
Over the rainbow Boulder 2m 1.1. Alien Wall
Predator Boulder 3m 1.1. Alien Wall
Rock face BoulderProject 2m 1.1. Alien Wall
Shiro Boulder 2m 1.1. Alien Wall
The Wet Spot Boulder 2m 1.1. Alien Wall
Port In A Storm Boulder 3m 1.2. Slowly Sinking Shelf
Barrel Boulder 2m 1.3. The Breech
DB Boulder 3m 1.4. Fine China
Red lion Boulder 3m 1.4. Fine China
V2 Dweller Boulder 2m 1.1. Alien Wall
Nostradamus Boulder 1.1. Alien Wall
Weedy Sea Dragon Boulder 2m 1.2. Slowly Sinking Shelf
Quench and Temper Boulder 3m 1.3. The Breech
V3 Homage to Catalonia Boulder 3m 1.2. Slowly Sinking Shelf
Row Row Row Your Boat Boulder 3m 1.2. Slowly Sinking Shelf
Thar She Blows Boulder 3m 1.2. Slowly Sinking Shelf
King Arthur Boulder 6m 1.3. The Breech
One Nation Boulder 3m 1.3. The Breech
V4 Nostromo Boulder 3m 1.1. Alien Wall
V5 Arnie Boulder 1.1. Alien Wall
Ripley Boulder 3m 1.1. Alien Wall
Unnamed Boulder 4m 1.1. Alien Wall
Xenomorph Boulder 2m 1.1. Alien Wall
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