Sandy Bay Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Phillip Booth James Lawira-Fernandez Zeke Whitfeld crag_shitter Woody Clement Bouchet Donald Gibson Simon Swalwell Nick Murphy Matt Miller

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Sandy Bay 43 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Sandy Bay 43 routes in Crag

Summary:

Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -33.803665, 151.252721

summary

Numerous historical problems here in good quality sandstone; however the region requires documentation on thecrag.com

description

Climbs described right to left

access issues

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

inherited from New South Wales and ACT

approach

Drive into Sandy Bay Road from Peronne Avenue/Amiens Road, continue past the marina until the roundabout. Park anywhere near the roundabout, boulders line the eastern side of the road approximately 100m either side of the roundabout.

ethic

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

inherited from North Shore

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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Behind the cars The first routes are located just before the roundabout hidden behind the parking spots. Many of the landings have been affected by 'beautification' by the council. If you are going to attempt any of these routes be sure you do not trample any of the plants (and if that's not possible, move on and try something else).
2	★ Dude, Where's My Car? Sit start, then up and right of the arete via a big pocket and an obvious flake.	V3	Boulder
3	No Stopping From the left arete, move 2m right and up for a fun time and desperate top.	V4	Boulder
4	1	V2	Boulder
5	The White Line	V3	Boulder
6	3	V4	Boulder
7	4	V0	Boulder
8	★★ 5	V2	Boulder
9	6	V2	Boulder
10	7	V3	Boulder
11	★ 8	V3	Boulder
The Roundabout The two blocks hiding behind the roundabout.
13	★★ 9	V4	Boulder
14	10	V2	Boulder
15	11	V1	Boulder
16	★ 12 Direct	V2	Boulder
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
17	★★ 12	V4	Boulder 6m
18	★★★ 13 Several juggy moves directly in the centre of the wall from a standing start leading into some small overhung crimps and a long reach to the ledge. Topout over the second section or crawl around the gap to the right.	V6	Boulder 7m
19	★★ 14 Start just right of the arête in the juggy pockets. A long move to the top out through the cave	V3	Boulder 6m
20	★ Gladys / Glad The route starts on "The Sandy bay roof" V6. Follow the line that is going right until you reach the end of the good hand holes then jump on the big jug of the v4 "Roadkill" (jug just above Roadkill's start). Then follow the Roadkill line. This is a link-up. It is an "endurance boulder" with a decent rest in the middle. FA: Clement Bouchet, 1 Oct 2021	V4	Boulder 6m
The Cave Fun steep jugging located just down from the roundabout on the bend. The routes are listed from left to right.
22	★★ Deep Diver / 21 Slide deep into the back of the cave to start on an undercling. Move out to buttress via powerful moves (and yes, it's super low-ball roof). FA: Unknown	V4	Boulder
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
23	Wave Rider / 20 Same start hold as 'The Sandy Traverse' then head straight up the flakey arete FA: Unknown	V0	Boulder 3m
24	★★ The Sandy Traverse Work the entire length of the lip starting on the far left side with two hands on the obvious ledge. FA: Unknown	V3	Boulder 10m
25	★ Clear Sailing Start as for 'The Sandy Traverse' but stay with hands on the upper rail topping out as for '18' by mantling onto the ledge in the middle of the cave. FA: Unknown Set: Phillip Booth, 2020	V1	Boulder 3m
26	★★★ The Sandy Bay Roof Start on the obvious triangle jug towards the back of the roof near the middle of the cave and move to the right side via the lowest chalked rail to the far right side lip. Turn the lip and move directly up the remaining slab to top out. FA: Unknown	V6	Boulder 6m
27	★★ Man Overboard / 18 Start on triangle jug as for 'The Sandy Bay Roof'. Head straight out towards the road and finish by mantling onto the shelf in the middle of the cave. FA: Unknown	V3	Boulder 4m
28	★★ Roaring Forties / 17 Start on triangle jug as for 'The Sandy Bay Roof'. Make a big move straight out towards the road and then head right to finish up the juggy arete. FA: Unknown	V3	Boulder 3m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
29	★ Roadkill Start both hands on the juggy hold under the lip. Climb directly outwards towards the road around the most overhung section of rock. Continue over the ledge to standing, and finish by topping out directly above.	V4	Boulder 4m
30	★ Free Willy / 15 Short wall just right of the cave. Sit start on chunky juggy side-pulls and head up via smaller holds to tricky top out. FA: Unknown	V2	Boulder 3m
31	★ Summer Daze Sit start then climb the arete to a tricky mantle.	V6	Boulder
The Pebble Little rock opposite the cave, NSEW dictated as perpendicular and parallel to the road. All routes are sit start centred on the referenced side. Any hands/feet you can reach.
33	The Pebble West side	V0	Boulder
34	The Pebble North side	V2	Boulder
35	The Pebble South Side	V3	Boulder
36	The Pebble East side	V4	Boulder
Left-hand Side The next bunch of routes are located further left between the cave and the stairs.
38	22	V1	Boulder
39	23	V2	Boulder
40	24	V4	Boulder
41	★★ 25	V3	Boulder
42	★ 26	V4	Boulder
43	★★ 27	V5	Boulder 4m
44	28	V1	Boulder
45	30		Boulder
46	29		Boulder 4m
47	31		Boulder
48	Jessie Direct. FA: James Alexander, 2004	V10	Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
V0		4	Boulder
		The Pebble West side	Boulder
		Wave Rider	Boulder 3m
V1		11	Boulder
		22	Boulder
		28	Boulder
	★	Clear Sailing	Boulder 3m
V2		1	Boulder
		10	Boulder
	★	12 Direct	Boulder
		23	Boulder
	★★	5	Boulder
		6	Boulder
	★	Free Willy	Boulder 3m
		The Pebble North side	Boulder
V3	★★	14	Boulder 6m
	★★	25	Boulder
		7	Boulder
	★	8	Boulder
	★	Dude, Where's My Car?	Boulder
	★★	Man Overboard	Boulder 4m
	★★	Roaring Forties	Boulder 3m
		The Pebble South Side	Boulder
	★★	The Sandy Traverse	Boulder 10m
		The White Line	Boulder
V4	★★	12	Boulder 6m
		24	Boulder
	★	26	Boulder
		3	Boulder
	★★	9	Boulder
	★★	Deep Diver	Boulder
	★	Gladys	Boulder 6m
		No Stopping	Boulder
	★	Roadkill	Boulder 4m
		The Pebble East side	Boulder
V5	★★	27	Boulder 4m
V6	★★★	13	Boulder 7m
	★	Summer Daze	Boulder
	★★★	The Sandy Bay Roof	Boulder 6m
V10		Jessie	Boulder
?		29	Boulder 4m
		30	Boulder
		31	Boulder

Sandy Bay Guide

Warning

Contributors

Table of contents

1. Sandy Bay 43 routes in Crag

2. Index by grade