Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Balkans The Frontline The Far Side | |||||
V3 | ★ The Jug Side
'The Low Side' variant where the cluster of big jugs to the left are in. Start in the back of the cave on the obvious chalked holds just like the other climbs. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ The Foot Side
Start in the back left of the cave, following 'The Bright Side' out the right side of the roof, then exit as early as possible from 'The Bright Side' with a high right foot. | 3m | |||
V2/3 | Back Crack
Sit start with hands in lowest 'jug' in the crack and move up via the mega jug, topping out through the high scoop. Set: Phillip Booth FA: Unknown | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ The right side (eliminate)
Eliminate all intermediate holds.Go straight from start to top jug. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Bravo
Sit start using slanted slopey crack, head left and up to top out Alpha. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Hotel
Sit start the same as for Golf, head up the bulging nose shaped arete to top out. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Juliet
Start on the juggy slot, big moves up the overhang, top out over bulge. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ L2F
Traverse left from start holds of Lima to exit out Foxtrot. Staying low and avoiding the lip. | 8m | |||
The Balkans The Frontline Frontline Left Hand Side | |||||
V3 | ★ Tanks a Lot
Start on 2f pocket and rounded crimp then straight up over the sloping bulge. Rightmost climb before the corner. Stay right of the good crimps out left. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | |||
V3 R | ★★ Milo on the Rocks
Start on broken horizontal ledge (ie. not the boulder) and stay on the left of the crack. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | |||
V3 R | ★★ Revelations
THE fist jam crack. Avoid using any of the face holds for some added fun. FA: Rob Saunders | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Underground Movement
Start on crimps, then go left to the good pocket and up to the top. FA: Jason Whitton | 3m | |||
The Balkans The Frontline The Corridor Boulders | |||||
V3 | ★ V3??
Find shallow mono above head height 1m R of "Sherman Tank". Up using this with R hand. Sherman Tank is off. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Missile Silo
One hard move on small crimps. FA: Tim O'Neill | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ G?
Sit start on the horizontal break, move up via some angled crimps and top out over bulge feature. | 3m | |||
The Balkans The Frontline The Eastern Bloc | |||||
V3 | ★★ Eastern Block Impossible
Start up Eastern Bloc Arete, finish up Mission Impossible. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Border Patrol
Trav the whole bloc & finish up Eastern Bloc Arete. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | |||
V3 R | ★★ Mission Impossible
Up the crack finishing left. Quite a sting in its tail unless you're tall. FA: Jason Whitton | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ It ain't no Omaha Beach
Start up Mission Impossible, traverse the rising break and finish up left side of Eastern Bloc Arete for an exciting top out. FA: unknown | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Coffee Anann
Quality moves from pocket to little pocket up right then delicately up and over. FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Double Agent
Layaways up the middle of the face | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ B
Same start as Berlin Blockade, but move left and up. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Violent Crumble
Just down the hill below the main boulder of The Eastern Bloc. Start at the back of the cave, head out following the biggest jugs you can find to a mantle. Careful of the cracked footer on the left. Start: Sit. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | |||
The Balkans The Frontline The Main Wall | |||||
V3 | 'B'
Up from the edges. | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ Highlander
Up the flared seam. | 6m | |||
The Balkans The Frontline Front and Centre | |||||
V3 | ★★ Burek dance
One for me one for you. Tic taccy finger warmup. Probably avoid the cracked jug. FA: Postman, 6 Jun 2020 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ F
Slab right behind Ali Baba. Stand start off crimp rail, head straight up. | 3m | |||
V3 R | ★ Pump Action
Start in the big pocket and dyno to top of arete to jug. Then carefully up ramp. FA: Tim O'Neill | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Johnny Dawes' Problem
Jump start to jug then over. FA: Adam Griffiths | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Diplomatic Problems
sit/ crouch start on chalked jug rail to the left of diplomaic solution. moving up through crimps without using the usual holds on diplomatic solution for hand and feet. top out directly through dimples over the edge. FA: Bill Zhou | 3m | |||
The Balkans The Frontline Frontline Right Hand Side | |||||
V3 | ★ Hot Milo
Lunge start then over bulge with no footholds. FA: Tim O'Neill | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Gaudy
Stand start on break, big move up to the pocket then easily up. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ B?
Start just left of the arete and go up, using the arete higher up. | ||||
The Balkans The Frontline Montenegro Wall | |||||
V3 R | Peace Plus
From undercling to layaway to good hold and easier top. FA: Chris Perry | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Black Mountain
Up vertical seam underneath tree branches. FA: Rob Saunders | 4m | |||
The Balkans The Frontline Area Q | |||||
V3 | ★★ Lay Down Your Arms
Sit start on lowest jug (same as for 'l'Homme Obu'), then up left to juggy break then straight up. FA: Rob Saunders | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ Rocket Pants
Jump to the LH pocket on 'L'Homme Obu'/'Rocket Man' and mantle around the bulge. FA: Adam Griffiths | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ If The Glove Fits
From crimps around bulge to improving holds and over. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | |||
V3 R | ★ Business as Usual
Hard first move to lovely rounded holds and scary top-out. Start: Sit FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ E?
Start on decent holds then up and right. | 3m | |||
The Balkans The Frontline Roadside | |||||
V3 | ★★ She'll Be Left
Finish straight up. Start: Sit FA: Tim O'Neill | 2m | |||
V3 R | ★ Crossfire
Don't get crossed up on this one. Long first moves to a tough mantle next to the boulder. FA: Tim O'Neill | 4m | |||
V3 | Ewe
Up from the jug to a tricky mantle. | 3m | |||
The Balkans The Backline | |||||
V3 | White Feather Var
| 5m | |||
V3 | Retreat
| 3m | |||
The Balkans The Lip | |||||
V3 | With compliments
Sit start low on the 2 good flat holds. Mantle up. FA: Daniel da Silva, 2011 | 2m | |||
The Balkans The Trenches The Outpost | |||||
V3 | ★★ Mr Gold
From the break up the gold holds | 4m | |||
The Balkans The Trenches The Grant Kenny Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★ Curry-Kenny
| 4m | |||
The Balkans The Trenches Bunker Wall | |||||
V3 R | ★★★ Stormin' Norman
Gaston or undercling the pockets to a scary top out. FA: Pete Balint | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Friendly Fire
FA: Pete Balint, 2000 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Legacy
FA: Tim O'Neill, 2000 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Liberte
| ||||
V3 | ★★ The Resistance
Up and around bulging arete through broken chickenheads to rounded sloper, then mantle like a demon. Start: Sit FA: Tim O'Neill | ||||
V3 | ★ Exodus
Power to the sidepull and up through water runs to an easier top out. FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | |||
The Balkans The Trenches In The Trenches | |||||
V3 | ★ Zac Attacks
Up and over | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Keep Your Helmet On
Slap for'letterbox', go right to pockets then long reach to top. Start: Sit FA: Rob Saunders | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ DDT
FA: Pete Balint, 2000 | 3m | |||
V3 R | ★★★ Incoming!
Start on the big pocket, then up to the crimps and over through the seam. A fall from the crimps would be nasty causing observers to yell ….'Innncoming'! FA: Pete Balint | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Black Flag
Jump to the top from the good pocket then over. Right of dead tree FA: Ange Conolly | 3m | |||
The Balkans The Trenches Dead Man's Gulch | |||||
V3 | ★ Dilly Dally
Start on flake up and over Start: Sit FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | |||
The Balkans The Trenches The Persian Gulf | |||||
V3 | The Thieving Walrus
Start: Sit FA: Adam Griffiths | 3m | |||
V3 | Amputations
Start: Sit FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | |||
The Balkans The Trenches The Mess Kitchen | |||||
V3 | Dirk Diggler
Up the scoope to the right of Bianca's Boobies. Start: Sit FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Single Serve right sit start
| ||||
V3 | ★ Squeeze Me To Please Me (Stand)
Stand start up and over from the higher sidepulls FA: Chris, 5 Jun 2020 | ||||
V3 | ★ Declaration
Incredible mantle. Start: Sit FA: Rob Saunders | ||||
The Balkans The Trenches The Caves | |||||
V3 | ★ Crank v2.0
Follow the big holds straight up. Low start & Bad Landing FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Crank v3.0
Low start then up the black streak. Bad Landing FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | |||
V3 | Sao
| ||||
V3 | Buddha Boys
From the back of the sandy cave to a difficult move and top out the right end. Start: Sit | ||||
The Balkans The Trenches | |||||
V3 | Zac’s Problem
Lunge from crimps to below overhanging boulder, then very gently pull the boulder onto your head! FA: Zac Vertrees | ||||
V3 | Surgical Slopers
FA: Rob Saunders | ||||
The Balkans Pony Cave | |||||
V3 | Smarty Jones
Sit start in scoop and then straight up | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Saddle Up
Sit start on slopers and climb up via pocket | 2m | |||
The Balkans The Sewer | |||||
V3 | ★ Knobby
Undercling the small knob, up to the slope and to the top. Sit start. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Jango Fett
Start as for Crap Boy and climb up to the left via the pokcets. Finish as for Crap Boy. FA: Kyle Dunsire | 4m | |||
The Balkans Macedonia The Fox Holes | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Fcuk Hole
Just beyond the Steyr arete, a small cave entrance leading to a medium sized interior. The word FUCK is spray painted on. Starting on the right side (facing the cave from outside) and working slopey ledge to giant needle eye, using opposite side of cave for feet. Work under needle eye, out and over the to top out left. Pumpy. FA: Zorba Parer, 2006 | 3m | |||
The Fear Factory The Courtyard | |||||
V3 | ★★ Blunt Instrument
The arete right of 'Elm Street' | 4m | |||
V3 R | ★★ Poltergeist
low start on the arete, scary finish | 4m | |||
V3 R | ★★★ The Twilight Zone
Delicately straight upwards to the finish of 'The Trance' | 5m | |||
V3 R | ★★ Flick Footy
well right of TZ, follow slopey breaks up to the summit ridge above a dodgy landing | 4m | |||
The Fear Factory Agostino's Corner Store | |||||
V3 | ★★★ The Full Monte
This time establish yourself completely on the arete before moving up. | 3m | |||
The Fear Factory The Golden Wall | |||||
V3 | Fool's Gold
A very weird almost classic. The series of good deep, but always moist, pockets have a completely unannounced tendency to send you flying backwards into the conveniently located spotting tree. | 5m | |||
The Fear Factory Oddball Buttress | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Back to Funk
Get down and get groovy, this old skool classic has got some funking moves above a bad ass landing. | 5m | |||
The Fear Factory No Man's Land | |||||
V3 | ★★ Sounds on Sunday
Cruise your way up the right side of this little arete. Take care, the large block and the tough top has already sent one victim halfway down the hill. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Raspberry Jelly
Stand on the ledge, take a deep breath and climb the short face using the right arete. Totally committing, bad landing. | 5m | |||
The Fear Factory Lindfield Lusho Wall | |||||
V3 | ★★ Super Fly
Excellent funky arete-ing. Get down and do it! | 4m | |||
V3 | Biscuit Spit
A very committing crimpy narrow line just left of Cracked. | 6m | |||
The Fear Factory Sinatra Wall | |||||
V3 | ★★ Check Your Head
Up the wall via good pockets below the roof's right edge to slink off right at the roof. | 5m | |||
The Fear Factory The Asteroid Belt | |||||
V3 | ★★ Space Probe
Committing spacey greatness. | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★★ The Shop Window
Straight through the window. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Left Hole
Up the left side of the window, then trend left. | 4m | |||
The Fear Factory Kennedy Wall and Beyond | |||||
V3 | ★★ Dave's Butt
Classy climbing up the middle of the buttress. No sides. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ My Tie
Short, crimpy and good climbing up the centre of the wall. | 3m | |||
The Fear Factory The Real Kenny Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★ Zenith Direct
Same start as Zenith but finishing directly above by jumping to the rail and topping out using the three slopey bumps over the lip. FA: 12 Dec 2017 | 4m | |||
The Fear Factory Blubber Wall | |||||
V3 | Pure Chewing Satisfaction
The main line up the centre, start on the right. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Fatty Deposits
Off the lowish right facing sloper, make a couple of powerful moves up and right before escaping left to finish. | 4m | |||
Funky Town Blowwave Wall | |||||
V3 | ★ 4
Stand start on jug and move up and left to top out. | 3m | |||
Funky Town Hard Belly | |||||
V3 | Hazy Shades
Slab | 4m | |||
V3 | Cocomotion
From the pocket up and mantle | 4m |