Help

The Lip

12

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

A small cave a little further up the road from the frontline with only a handful of problems however ''All The Tables Are Reversed In My Private Universe" is fast becoming a classic and the "tablets" lower start just makes it better.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Take the trail between 30 and 32 Larra Crescent, then head right behind the houses. After about 50m follow the obvious path down into the bush, take the first left (only 10m into bush) then follow this until you see the cairn about 100m along the track. Head straight down the rocks to the cave.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Classic Compression Problem with a tough top out. Start at the obvious jug at the left end of the cave. Using what ever holds needed (they are obvious) to gain the lip and then mantle up and over.

Tyrone Clements

FA: Patrick John Reynolds, 2011

Adds a low start to "All the tables are reversed in my private universe". Start at the very back of the cave and make a big move to the start jug of "tables" and finish as per the v10.

Chris Beers

Roman Rosen

FA: Patrick John Reynolds, 2011

Hard slapping and compression moves with crazy toe hooking. From the hard low start of tablets rehearsed ride the lip to link into blue and green and red all over.

Chris Beers

FA: Dan DaSilva, 2011

Warning Rock: Broken Hold

Start & finish as for Grubby Paw but direct to hueco as for The Smiling Assassin.

Chris Beers Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

FA: Damien Alexander, 14 Jun 2015

Grubby paw direct but exiting via blue and green directly over. Just gave it a twelve based on grubby paw direct, most likely everything here could drop by one.

FA: Chris, 7 Jul 2020

Start as for Grubby Paw but climb direct through to hueco without using the lip then finish with The Black Pearl. Maybe V12.

FA: Damien Alexander, 19 May 2015

A testing mantle and the tougher exit. Starting from the Hueco heading slightly left to top out.

Bill Zhou

FA: Daniel da Silva

Start at the big Hueco in the middle of the cave. Out to the lip moving right to top out.

Stephen Rawls

FA: Patrick John Reynolds, 2011

Sit start on the hueco like for 'blue and green' climb out and follow the lip back left to top out as for 'tables reverse' Yan Z

FA: Dan DaSilva

Starts 3m to the right of the big hueco in the roof, below the faint runnel. Start left hand on low crimp right hand on slightly higher crimp rail. Start with or kick right heel up to start. Curse your way up on not much to gain high little pocket. Doesn't move out right

FA: Dan DaSilva, 2012

Sit start on the pocket and the tiny dish, low on the lip. With a heel on the rail. Thrutch your way straight up to glory.

FA: Daniel da Silva, 25 Nov 2017

Sit start low on the 2 good flat holds. Mantle up.

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2011

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Date: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Mon 15 May
Check out what is happening in The Lip.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文