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South Central Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

I Skip Crux Holds Ben Jenga Richo Ryan Sklenica Johan Szabo

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. South Central 48 routes in Area

Summary:
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Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.855474, 150.589286

description

For some, 'South Central' embodies all that is ugly about 'Nowra', a short, steep, dusty, urbanised crag but then there are those that are totally captivated by the powerful style of climbing here and feel at peace with the world as the dappled early morning sunlight filters through the trees and dances on the rock.

The climbing here requires power, endurance and lots of it. The rock is steep and comprised of those notoriously slick 'Nowra' slopers so if there has been extended periods of rain or high humidity don't expect conditions to be great. But having said that, 'South Central' is a crag you can still climb at if it is raining.

So be warned, if you only come here once expect to get spanked and go home with aching forearms and a reputation in tatters but if you have the courage to come back a couple of times and get used to the style of climbing required you might start to believe that 'South Central' is the best crag at 'Nowra'.

© (Ashy)

access issues

This climbing area has recently become a focus spot for tension between climbers and the local Aboriginal community. Be informed and respect closures. Clean up chalk and rethink adding additional new routes to crags with access issues.

inherited from Nowra

approach

Driving west along Illaroo Rd, turn right into Phillip Dr, left into Castle Glen and at the end of the road turn right into Jamieson Rd and park down the hill at the end of the road. From here walk 70m straight ahead down the track until you reach a small 1m high waterfall on your left (usually dry). Cross the creek here and continue for 30m until you reach the crag. Alternatively you can park as for 'Mortein Wall' and work your way past 'Rosies', 'Bartondale' etc until you reach the waterfall.

© (Ashy)

ethic

Mostly developed as a sport climbing and bouldering area. Some trad climbing exists, mainly the pure cracks. If developing new areas keep an eye and and ear out for Aboriginal cultural heritage, including cave art.

inherited from Nowra
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dickman And Throbbin

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

25 Sport 12m
2 The Duralax Kid

FA: Nick Sutter, 1992

25 Sport 12m
3 Black Flag

FA: George Fieg, 1996

29 Sport 15m
4 Black Rage

A good line that shares the first two rings of 'Maintain The Rage' before veering slightly left and up the wall and finishes up 'Black Flag'.

FA: Luke Magill, 2006

29 Sport 15m
5 Maintain The Rage

Up BB for 3 bolts then go straight up.

Start: Start as for BB.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1995

27 Sport 15m
6 Brown Badge

Excellent bouldery first move, then just plain excellent. Start: Start at the cheatstones 5m L of SB.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1994

27 Sport 17m, 9
7 Maximum Cutshot

Classic South Central climbing! Do the start dyno of Brown Badge, then head right past a couple independant bolts to join Spermies, and finish at its anchors.

FA: Mark McGivern, 8 Dec 2021

29 Sport 10m, 4
8 TNT

Same first move as Brown Badge, then head right to finish all the way up ANS. Originally bolted by Rob Lebreton

FA: Mark McGivern, Aug 2022

32 Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 Spermies

3 incredibly powerful moves. A poxy route - or a great boulder problem? Was briefly the hardest route in the country at grade 33. Now considered to be a V10 boulder problem on a rope.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1995

31 Sport 8m
10 Physical Graffiti

Start up Sunshine then bust left under Plastic Exploding, traverse left and up and finish at the anchors of Spermies.

FA: George Fieg

31 Sport 15m
11 Plastic Exploding Inevitable

Up ANS for a few bolts then, instead of veering R to finish, keep heading left for a few more bolts through steep territory just left of the arete, finishing just R of 'Brown Badge'.

If you love pumped forearms then at the last bolt (before anchor) traverse left to finish up Brown Badge.

Start: Start as for Ain't no Sunshine.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 1999

29 Sport 20m
12 Ain't No Sunshine when he's Gone / Ain't No Sunshine

Has been called the best 28 in the world. The real classic of this area. Relentlessly steep and consistent cranking. Very enjoyable moves with no let up until the anchors.

Start: Start below the obvious hanging arete.

Angie Scarth-Johnson (11)

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1993

28 Sport 15m
13 Project SportProject 12m
14 Crenshaw Boulevarde

FA: George Fieg, 1998

30 Sport 10m
15 Hats and Hoods / Crenshaw Extension

FA: Chris Webb-Parsons

33 Sport 13m
16 Public Domain

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1996

28 Sport 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 Comin' At Ya Hyper

FA: Andrew Bull, 1995

27 Sport 12m
18 Red Baron

Heel hook your way up to the third bolt (strenuous clip). Throw for the lip, grunt, then continue to the top holds trying not to fall whilst clipping. Awesome!

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

26 Sport 10m, 4
19 Dungeon Master

FA: George Fieg, 1995

31 Sport 20m
20 Dungeon Mistress

Right hand exit to dungeon master, keep right after the first jump around the lip and finish up the slab.

FA: Matt Warner

29 Sport
21 Mega Death

Up obvious corner to wild traverse rightwards on roof. Very underrated thrashing.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

26 Sport 10m
22 Mega Death Direct

FA: Garth Miller, 1994

27 Sport 10m
23 No Name

FA: Chris Wallace, 1995

23 Sport 9m
24 There Goes The Neighourhood

FA: Andrew Bull, 1992

24 Sport 9m
25 Scum

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992

25 Sport 10m
26 Scumbag

FA: Zac Vetrees

31 Sport 20m
27 Scumy Sex

link up of sex machine into scum

FA: George Broadfoot, 2006

26 Sport 10m
28 Sex Machine

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992

26 Sport 10m
29 Crime Is Art

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992

23 Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
30 Two Bolts And Not For Me

Not the original start but rebolted and fun. Start up Art is Fucked and head left at the rail for 2 bolts. Finish up to rusty looking chain or add some extra excitement and go up to Crime is Art anchors.

FA: Tara Sutherland, 1993

23 Sport 9m, 5
31 Art Is Fucked

FA: Dave Filan, 1992

23 Sport 8m
32 Hunted Child

FA: Stewart Wyithe, 1992

22 Sport 8m
33 Strike

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

23 Sport 7m
34 Trib

Start halfway between Strike and Silver Hands. Straight up through bulges. Finish at Strike anchor.

Bottom is protected by either boulder pads or the first bolt of Silver Hands. Top protected with cams.

20 Trad 5m
35 Silver Hands

Was once the hardest 17 in the known universe.

They come from far and wide to feel the pockets, stroke the slopers, and clip the chains. Now it is your turn to join the masses and see why Silver Hands is number one in the world.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

19 Sport 9m
36 Silver Hands Sit

The obvious mega classic sit start to the most popular route in the world. Warm up your tendons first this 17 is a little spicy.

This also stores the current record information for the Silver Hands speed record. Silver Hands but speedy. Top rope speed climbing Silver Hands. Rules: One foot on the ground and you only have to slap the chains. God speed.

17 Sport 9m
37 Bag Of Sand

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

21 Sport 8m
38 Special K

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

23 Sport 8m
39 Itchy Quims

FA: Graeme Hill, 1992

21 Sport 9m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
40 Burping Burgers

FA: Veronique Hill, 1992

19 Sport 8m
41 Poo With Me

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

24 Sport 9m
42 Poo With Me (Right variant)

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

24 Sport 9m
43 Word Up

FA: Andrew Dunbar, 1993

24 Sport 12m
44 Hard At It

FA: Greame Hill, 1997

24 Sport 9m
45 Dungeon Dykes

Don't be put off by the lack of chalk, this climbs really well and is more straightforward than the other 23s here.

FA: Greame Hill, 1999

23 Sport 7m
46 Torra Torra Pass

If you are finding this tough, just remember that it is a 21 at south central.

FA: Veronique Hill, 1996

21 Sport 6m
47 Bush Bash

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

17 Sport 5m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
48 Slippery When Wet

FA: Graeme Hill, 1997

17 Sport 6m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
17 Bush Bash Sport 5m
Silver Hands Sit Sport 9m
Slippery When Wet Sport 6m
19 Burping Burgers Sport 8m
Silver Hands Sport 9m
20 Trib Trad 5m
21 Bag Of Sand Sport 8m
Itchy Quims Sport 9m
Torra Torra Pass Sport 6m
22 Hunted Child Sport 8m
23 Art Is Fucked Sport 8m
Crime Is Art Sport 10m
Dungeon Dykes Sport 7m
No Name Sport 9m
Special K Sport 8m
Strike Sport 7m
Two Bolts And Not For Me Sport 9m, 5
24 Hard At It Sport 9m
Poo With Me Sport 9m
Poo With Me (Right variant) Sport 9m
There Goes The Neighourhood Sport 9m
Word Up Sport 12m
25 Dickman And Throbbin Sport 12m
Scum Sport 10m
The Duralax Kid Sport 12m
26 Mega Death Sport 10m
Red Baron Sport 10m, 4
Scumy Sex Sport 10m
Sex Machine Sport 10m
27 Brown Badge Sport 17m, 9
Comin' At Ya Hyper Sport 12m
Maintain The Rage Sport 15m
Mega Death Direct Sport 10m
28 Ain't No Sunshine when he's Gone Sport 15m
Public Domain Sport 12m
29 Black Flag Sport 15m
Black Rage Sport 15m
Dungeon Mistress Sport
Maximum Cutshot Sport 10m, 4
Plastic Exploding Inevitable Sport 20m
30 Crenshaw Boulevarde Sport 10m
31 Dungeon Master Sport 20m
Physical Graffiti Sport 15m
Scumbag Sport 20m
Spermies Sport 8m
32 TNT Sport 15m
33 Hats and Hoods Sport 13m
? Project SportProject 12m
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