Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
14 | ★ 2 For Tea
Top-out at abseil rings 4-6. Headwall might be a bit stiff for the grade, use extenders on the last two bolts to reduce drag if belaying a second. FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 1998 | 32m, 9 | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★ Event Horizon
Start 2m L of 'Lunar Eclipse'. Marked "EH". Climb straight up right of the large loose block, then tend slightly left above this, to the DBB shared with SD. 4 RBs. Rebolted 2014. FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010 | 17m, 4 | Mt Ngungun | ||
14 | ★ After Dinner Delight
Start 2m R of More Smart More Safe, marked “ADD” Some nice, flowy climbing through 6 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with More Smart More Safe. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux. FFA: Steve Kloske, 2014 | 12m, 6 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
14 | ★ The Dog's Paw
Start around the corner from 'One Legged Dog', on the right side of the small cave. Follow 6 U-bolts to the DUBB of OLD. FA: Colin Carstens, 2007 FA: Colin Carstens, 2007 | 15m, 6 | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★ Banana King
Start 1m R of Critter Christmas, marked “BK” Jug hauling past 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Critter Christmas. A high first bolt may warrant a stick clip. FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 2013 | 12m, 5 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
14 | ★ Found the Salt
Up R side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off shared with OL. FA: Matt Butler & Colin Carstens, 2008 | 13m, 5 | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★ The Magical Liopleurodon
Missing the first bolt. Up on good jugs passing two FH and tree on right hand side to ledges. Then up passing another 2 FH to anchors. Often dirty after rain. FA: Steve Kloske, 2014 | 12m, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
14 | ★ Heliosphere
Up the slab passing ten FH's to rap station. For the descent, a doubled 60m rope will get you to a ramp where you can scramble off (care!). Start: About 25m L of Aphelion's first pitch, just R of the access track. Marked with a small, scratched 'H'. FA: Phil Box, 2004 | 35m | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
14 | ★ The Day the Jugs Ran Out
Bolted, 8 bolts. Rap/belay from ring #10. FA: jjobrien & A. Bailey | 35m, 8 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
14 | ★ Dengue Fever
FA: Wayne Mieth & Wilfred Bos, 2005 | 15m, 4 | Mt Beerwah | ||
14 | ★ Degrees Of Freedom
Rap/belay from ring #10. FA: jjobrien & Sandra Phoenix | 35m, 7 | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
14 | ★ Bug Off
FA: Wayne Mieth, Russell French & Roxy Mieth, 2005 | 14m, 3 | Mt Beerwah | ||
14 | ★ Dang Fool
Nice thin moves past highish RB. Continue past 2nd RB to DBB. FA: Ross Ferguson, 2002 | 10m, 2 | Mt Ngungun | ||
14 | ★ Better homes and gardens
Up crack, tend right around bulge then left to anchors. Watch for rope rub on the way down. Shares anchors with Rail Mc Railface FFA: Justin Pedersen & Jarred, 2017 FA: Justin Pedersen & Jarred, 2017 | 9m, 3 | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★ Heinzinator
Start 5m R of 'Fool's Errand'. Be wary of the friable rock. Straight up on crimpers to 1st bolt, crux to 2nd bolt, then easier to 3rd bolt. DBB on slab above. FA: Heinz Buscher & Steve Jones, 2009 | 14m, 3 | Mt Ngungun | ||
14 | ★ Rumpelstilzchen
Up the orange streak 2m L of G. FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991 | 7m | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★ Suddenly Sober
3m L of YHIFOP, starting at rooflet with big flakes and jugs (crux). Clip two rings while moving up on jugs to third ring and good wires. Up to rooflet and fourth ring. Step L around roof and top out. Classic! Doable on RBs only, with a decent runout in the middle; make sure you're solid at the grade if doing this. FA: Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osborne & Ben Carter, 2004 | 20m, 4 | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★ Vulvo
Up bulge to gain small ledge and clip first bolt, up fun features to anchors. FA: Peggy & Justin Pedersen, 2017 FFA: Braden Pearce & Jarred, 14 Feb 2018 | 10m, 3 | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★★ Minotaur p2
Runout, but quite nice! Two FH’s to chains. Move directly right after Minotaur P1 anchor, up into corner. Follow line of least resistance. Can get down with a 70m if you link them. FA: Darrin Carter, 2000 | 15m, 2 | Serpent | ||
14 | ★ Foxy Lady
Start at flake left of 'Extreme Close Up'. Fairly straight up passing four ring bolts and optional gear (nuts, small hexes) for runouts in easy sections. Use the new anchor, but the old anchor has been left as requested by Wayne for a little bit of history - this is one of the anchors that hadn't completely rusted away! FA: Wayne Mieth & Debra Mieth, 2007 | 28m, 4 | Mt Beerwah | ||
14 | ★ Giftzwerg
15m L of L. Up to L of crack. FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991 | 8m | Brooyar | ||
V0- | ★★ Feebz Outdoors
Start 1m left of OHH. Sit start. Climb straight up the arete to top out. | 2m | Noosa National Park | ||
14 | ★ No More Gaps
Set: Zac Trembath-Pitham FFA: Steve Postle Kelston Monro Zac Trembath-Pitham & Kel | 20m, 6 | Mt Cooroora | ||
14 | Monkey Swallows The Universe
Starts at the base of the tree and goes up the arête. After that, head L and follow the obvious seam up to chain. Two bolts then small cams and wires. FA: ross ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2006 | 15m, 2 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
14 | ★★ Gun Control
The first ascent was done just after the Port Arthur Massacre - and the subsequent gun buypack scheme, thus the name. It was also Neil's first ever use of a handrill - the tedium of bashing and twisting certainly controlled the bolt gun! Starts 12m left of Guillotine (or 13-14m left of the big white gum).
From here, continue up the ridge to the summit & down the hiker's track. To gain the ridge, a fun option is step onto the dome from the belay ledge and climb the crack/flake which has some nice moves with good pro for about 20m, to tree belay in the forest. Variant finish to pitch 6 (if the chimney is slimy wet): 6b. 30m 16. Up chimney to a good hex placement, then out right onto a small ledge & up the face on good holds, but no pro, to tree belay. Pitch 1 & 2 anchors replaced September 2021 FA: Neil Monteith, Mark Bennett & Marten Blumen, 1996 FA: Craig Molloy & Wayne Meith, 2004 | 230m, 6, 1 | Mt Beerwah | ||
14 | ★ 41 degrees in the shade | 10m, 4 | Brooyar | ||
14 | Lilliputian
The obvious finger crack 20m from the road. More of a protectable boulder problem than a climb. FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991 | 6m | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★★ Spilled Milk
Start 2m right of 'Roof Climb'. Climb straight to the top staying within the band of rock covered in white lichen. FA: Unknown | 13m | Mt Ngungun | ||
V0- | ★★ Minke Whale
Sit start 1m right of Crimp and Stem. Match hands on small ledge before powering upwards to top out. | 4m | Noosa National Park | ||
14 R | ★ Piccolo
Up fine seam at black streak at L end of this wall. Poor protection. FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991 | 6m | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★ Leaning Tower
Marked 'LT'. Start up the nice hand crack but this soon turns in a wide off-width. At the widest point, squeeze through the crack and chimney up to ledge. Rap off or continue up one of the crack lines above. FA: Steve Bell & Dave Kahler, 1972 | 27m | Mt Ngungun | ||
V0- | ★ Drip
Sit start 1m left of SCS. Layback right using the obvious (and often wet) crack. Easy top out. Tends to seep. | 5m | Noosa National Park | ||
14 | ★ Rocket Man
A short easy trad route underneath Yoink. Start at small tree and climb through the orange rock. FFA: Matt Schimke, 2008 | 9m | Mt Coolum | ||
V0- | ★ Time Travel
Sit start on side pull and crimp, balance your way up the arete. | Buderim | |||
14 | ★★ Lithium Grit
Start 3m left of bad move, up to bulge (med cam) in crack below bulge, then move up and slightly right with care to lose looking block (ground-fall) keep climbing place a nut in slot, then up to crack (small cam) and finish on jugs. FFA: B.Cobb, 25 Jul 2014 | 10m | Mt Ngungun | ||
14 | ★ Passably Cute Warrior Princesses
The hand/fist crack in the corner just R of the small tree growing at half height. Top belay off solid gum trees FFA: Daniel Peatey & Rick Helm, Oct 2015 | 9m | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★★ Bolts And Chips But No Mushy Peas
FA: Stuart Lancaster & Sean Smith, 1996 | 15m | Mt Beerwah | ||
14 | ★★ As If
FA: Wayne Mieth & Darrin Carter., 2005 | 25m, 2, 2 | Mt Beerwah | ||
14 | ★ Vagabond
| 150m | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
14 | ★★ How To Make Gravy
Another lovely little sport route. A false overhang gives it a steep feel. FA’d on gravy day. Start: about 2m right of PC. Up passing 4 bolts, then trend slightly left to anchors. FA: 21 Dec 2019 | 13m, 4 | Mt Ngungun | ||
V0- | ★ Sunny Coast Elevator
Sit start then straight up to top out FA: Oliver Rickford, 5 Jul 2020 | 4m | Noosa National Park | ||
V0- | ★★ Hot Feet
Start on the left most nubbin with excellent low feet. Straight up avoiding the flake on the left. Works well no-handed. | Buderim | |||
14 | Beginners To Advanced
FA: Darrin Carter & Sean Smith, 1996 | 27m, 1 | Mt Beerwah | ||
14 | Doing Time
Natural pro traversing left under the flake. Starts just where the track starts to steep to the left. Finish over the top, passing a FH and belay from tree. FA: Darrin Carter, 2000 | 15m | Serpent | ||
V0- | ★ Mi Goreng Misfit
Sit start using big holds, Traverse right to arete then top out. Avoid using the blocks to the right of the arete. FA: Tyler, 5 Jul 2020 | 4m | Noosa National Park | ||
V0- | ★★ Tree Knob
Sit start matched on crimp jug. Straight up using the tree knob sloper to mantle FA: Oliver Rickford, 8 Jul 2021 | 2m | Buderim | ||
14 | Wet Feet Warm Up
Stick exclusively to the crack, with hands and feet, a low angle initiation to the rest of the area. FA: Cris Brazzelli & Keir Gillam, 2012 | 20m | Noosa National Park | ||
14 | Burke's Backyard
Start: 1.5m left of Columbian Necktie, or 5-6m left of Short Circuit, at the right facing ramp, leading up to the crack. Bold climbing at the grade: big run-outs, esp. on p2.
FA: John Hattink & Darrin Carter, 2008 | 80m, 2 | Mt Beerwah | ||
14 | JJ Loves Trad
Trad, Cnr crack on left side of 30m pillar, right of Where's The Bolt. Wires, Hexes, S-M slcd's, smaller tricams may be handy. Last 15 metres is unprotectable slab. Rap off tree at the top of the pillar if you don't fancy the runout (I know I would) FFA: Ben Deasy & William Deasy, 2007 | 45m | Mt Tinbeerwah | ||
14 | ★ Will Ninja Blend | 22m | Mt Ninderry | ||
14 | Ultra Violet Catastrophe
Marked 'UVC'. Sunscreen optional. The obvious angled off-width on the right side of the leaning pillar. Good pro and sustained climbing all the way to a tree belay. FA: Dave Kahler & Steve Bell, 1972 | 23m | Mt Ngungun | ||
14 | Round the Bend
Easy beginner lead climb. Starts to the right of So Close. Shares the Just Enough anchors on the ledge to the right. FA: Mike D & ClaudiuX, 2020 | 28m, 8 | Mt Beerwah | ||
V0- | ★ Off Balance Challenge
Stand start. Make your way up the left side of the arete. FA: Tamati Kennedy, 26 Nov 2020 | Mt Beerwah | |||
14 | ★ The boulder Oinky
A boulder with bolts and jugs with a lower off on cliff face FA: Justin Pedersen, 2019 | 4m, 2 | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★ Gambier I
FA: Rick White, 1968 | 45m | Mt Beerwah | ||
14 | Wandering Madness
1
14
2
12
Start: 10m left of Proven Guilty, below the small tree, next to the projecting knob of rock.
(NB: A piton runner was replaced by a carrot on p1) FA: Sean Smith & Simon Moser, 1997 | 60m, 2, 1 | Mt Beerwah | ||
14 | Faith
Start: diagonally up and to the left of the start of the Caves Route at a small flat ledge at the bottom of a series of sloping ribs, about 18m down from the apex. Marked "F". This is an exposed and poorly protected route. This is the original 1955 description. 70yrs on, trees may have disappeared and new ones grown. Additionally; there's been significant rock fall in this area, so route finding may well be challenging.
FA: Bill Peascod, Neill Lamb & Julie Henry, 1955 | 96m, 5 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
V0- | ★ Eggcited
Sit start as per Scrambled Eggs, then traverse left avoiding the block below, top out at highest point. | 3m | Buderim | ||
14 | ★ Escape from NEB
1
14
30m
2
13
35m
A traverse that deserves a description. First used by FA party of North-east buttress to escape the route before the aided crux section.
FA: P. Conaghan & G. Hardy, 1965 | 65m, 2 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
V0- | La Roca
The Rock FA: Raven, 3 Nov 2021 | 2m | Brooyar | ||
V0- | Nature Spirit
FA: Raven, 7 Nov 2021 | 4m | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★ Eye On Crime
35m left of Gun Control (Head on up the slope, past Gun Control, past the overhang, down the slope, to the prominent sports slab) The pocketed line, just right of Super Size Me (carroted route), behind a sapling. Up the slab, on large pockets & good gear, till it eases, then trend left, to a block & belay stance, about 10m below the big roofs. Escape: down-climb, trending slightly left, to chains on Super Size Me. FA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 1999 | 30m | Mt Beerwah | ||
14 | Microtome
The first known technical route on the south west corner of Tibro. This corner is bisected by a scrubby ramp that traverses diagonally up from right to left, starting under a vertical section of the cliff on the south face proper. Below this ramp, a buttress comprised of relatively clean and smooth slabs can be found, and this route takes a direct line up those slabs to end on the scrubby ramp. To find the start of the route, take the usual access track to Slider gully and bushbash around the base of the mountain. Alternatively, it is fairly easy to follow the Trachyte Circuit around the mountain until a low point on the trail with an abundance of ferns. The buttress can vaguely be seen through the shrubbery, so make a beeline through moderately dense bush to the base of the wall.
Descent: One can scramble down to the right, although it is quite vegetated. A faint path also leads up and left, eventually connecting with the Tourist Track and a short descent to ground level. FA: 1973 | 100m, 3 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
14 | ★ Girls Have Nuts Too
Start as for Bio-orgasmic Plasma Gun, traverse left at the ledge, then up the off-width. Top out and tree belay. FA: Lauren Hunter & Lee Prescott, 2 Oct 2021 | 10m | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★ Tom's Turnips
Start just about 1.5m left of 'New Day Rising' in orange corner. Head straight up eventually ending at the anchor of 'New Day Rising'. The gear is actually quite good, it takes various bits of gear including slings, nuts, hexes and small cams (to 0.5 C4), a set of tri-cams from black to red is very useful for the pockets. The gear at the start is a little finicky to find but it's there. FFA: Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 2014 | 15m | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★ Rain Drops
| 45m, 2 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
14 | ★ Travails of a Tripping Termite
Long (pointless?) traverse. Start: Starts off the block at the start of The Girl Who Lives On Heaven Hill. FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993 | 30m | Brooyar | ||
V0- | Veggies
stand start both hands on undercling. reach up to ledge then mantle to the top. | 2m | Buderim | ||
V0- | Pegasus
Stand start on the back right side of the boulder, traverse left staying below the lip, step around the corner and mantle. FA: Raven, Nov 2022 | Constellation Quarry | |||
V0- | Pisces
Sit start matched on obvious rail, throw to the top and mantle. FA: Raven, Nov 2022 | Constellation Quarry | |||
V0- | ★ First Base with Grandpa
Sit start on the left hand side of Diamond traverse up and right to top out. FA: Oliver Rickford, 5 Nov 2021 | Brooyar | |||
V0- | Astin Min
My Love FA: Raven, 7 Nov 2021 | 2m | Brooyar | ||
V0- | Algiz
Rune FA: Raven, 11 Nov 2021 | 2m | Brooyar | ||
V0- | ★ Bonsai left
Left of the bonsai boulder face on nice incuts | Mount Beerburrum | |||
V0- | ★ Bonsai right
Right of the bonsai boulder face | Mount Beerburrum | |||
14 | Good for a Lifetime
6m right of Via the Rainbow. Climb pockets to ledge. Up face to slopey exit. Poor pro. More of a solo. Anchor off gumtree. FFA: Za & Rainbow, 18 May 2018 | 11m | Brooyar | ||
14 | ★★ Flight Of The Phoenix
FA: Alex McConnell & Helen Conn, 1996 | 40m | Mt Beerwah | ||
14 | ★ Everything is Awesome (VS)
| 8m | Mt Tibberoowuccum | ||
14 R | Welcome To The Choss Road
An easy but badly protected outing. A great adventure for the discerning choss jockey. The FA was completed (just!) in two pitches (running 1-2 and 3-4 together). Note that this was not at all comfortably done on a 70m rope - if you're going to do this as two pitches I would only recommend doing so on an 80m rope.
FA: Jake Forker & MisterS, 15 Mar 2020 | 140m, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
14 | ★ Dead Bird Chimney
Start on the L side of Pond Ledge where there is a DBB. A couple of face moves to get established in the chimney. Climb this past 2 bolts, then continue up slab to base of a cave and DBB. FA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Token Black Guy, 9 Jun 2014 FFA: Mason Minto & Zac Trembath-Pitham, 10 Jun 2014 | 20m, 2 | Mt Cooroora | ||
14 R | Vege Abattoir
A bold wall first climbed as a solo. Start 2m L of 'Armageddon'. Up slab and over small roof then traverse R to 'Armageddon' anchor. Marginal protection but nice rock. FA: Neil Monteith, 1996 | 13m | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
V0- | ★ That's A Spicy Meatball
Free standing boulder on the beach. Sit start, up the arete on the right to top out. FA: Oliver Rickford, 7 Jun 2020 | 4m | Noosa National Park | ||
V0- | Mannaz
Rune FA: Raven, 10 Nov 2021 | 3m | Brooyar | ||
14 | Faith - Variant Finish
Start: diagonally up and to the left of the start of the Caves Route at a small flat ledge at the bottom of a series of sloping ribs, about 18m down from the apex. Marked "F". This is an exposed and poorly protected route. This is the original 1955 description. 70yrs on, trees may have disappeared and new ones grown. Additionally; there's been significant rock fall in this area, so route finding may well be challenging.
From here, exit up & right, across vegetated ledges above Carborundum Chimney to access the Caves Route below Trojan. FA: Bill Peascod, Neill Lamb & Julie Henry, 1955 FA: Hugh Pechy & Dennis Stocks, 1966 | 110m, 5 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
V0- | Center in Divine
to find Truth FA: Raven, 10 Nov 2021 | 3m | Brooyar | ||
V0- | Fjldskyldu
Family FA: Raven, 18 Jan 2023 | 6m | Brooyar | ||
V0- | Gebo
Rune FA: Raven, 11 Nov 2021 | 2m | Brooyar | ||
14 | First Come First Served
FA: Darrin Carter & Sean Smith, 1996 | 25m | Mt Beerwah | ||
V0- | Hagalaz
Rune - Sit start FA: Raven, 10 Nov 2021 | 1m | Brooyar | ||
14 | Misfire
A pretty average natural route put up to get to a good photo spot for Ricochet. Follows ramp right of Ricochet and then up headwall left of the top of Out of Ammo. FA: Chris Finn, 2000 | 15m | Serpent | ||
V0- | Hugin
Thought FA: Raven, 7 Nov 2021 | 2m | Brooyar | ||
V0- | Ehwaz
Rune FA: 10 Nov 2021 | 1m | Brooyar | ||
V0- | Munin
Memory FA: Raven, 7 Nov 2021 | 1m | Brooyar | ||
V0- | Engill
Angel FA: Raven, 11 Nov 2021 | 2m | Brooyar | ||
V0- | Lofti
Air FA: Raven, 7 Nov 2021 | 2m | Brooyar | ||
V0- | Dreki
Dragon FA: Raven, 12 Nov 2021 | 2m | Brooyar | ||
V0- | Brachiosaurus
Climb left side of slab. FA: Crofty11, 8 Aug 2021 | 4m | Buderim | ||
14 | Time On Your Hands
Start: Left of Just Juice, in the depression with small knobs. Featured climbing up to a jug, then up to tree, continue on thin gear to first belay on Just Juice. Can be climbed in 2 pitches by belaying at the tree. FA: Darrin Carter & Gareth Llewellin, 1997 | 50m | Mt Beerwah | ||
V0- | Wolf-skins
FA: Raven, 12 Nov 2021 | 2m | Brooyar | ||
V0- | Brontosaurus
Climb line to R of Brachiosaurus FA: Crofty11, 8 Aug 2021 | 4m | Buderim |