Nodes in Canberra

The perfect crags for those summer afternoons after work.

The Molonglo River is a 115 kilometre long river in the Murray-Darling Basin. It originates around Captains Flat, merges with the Queanbeyan River, divides Canberra into north and south, and finally joins the Murrumbidgee River (between Uriarra crossing and Shepherds lookout, by the wastewater treatment plant).

These climbing areas are in the Lower Molonglo, downstream of Lake Burley Griffin.

A fairly grubby sport crag upstream (and therefore in no danger from) the sewer works on Stockdill Drive near Holt, about 10 minutes drive from Belconnen. Climbs vary in height from 8 to 55 m, and the rock type is a porphyry volcanic. This is not a well-attended crag, with an adventurous approach, plenty of lichen, and some loose rock in places. Climb here at your own risk!

Septic Sector and the Cave Routes were bolted in 2014 and have straightforward access following the directions below. Sewer Wall, however, has many routes that start with a hairy traverse over the water on untrustworthy bolts that are rusty and probably NOT SAFE. Ideally you would abseil in to get to the base of this sector, but there are a couple of issues with this - firstly, there are no trustworthy trees up top, nor anywhere to place gear for an abseil, and secondly, between half to the entire sector has water at the bottom depending on recent rain!

Sewer Wall is in shade most of the day, but Septic Sector and the Cave Routes get full sun in the afternoon during the summer. The water is a great way to cool off; it's upstream from the water treatment plant so you're safe and it's usually a nice temperature throughout the warmer months.

It gets dark very quickly once the sun touches the Brindabellas in the west, and the start of the approach trail can be difficult to find, so pack a torch, as well as a camera not just for the climbs but for awesome scenery and an abundance of turtles, lizards, and, yes, piranha carp.

The original wall, which was developed in the early 1990s. There is an abundance of lichen and the bolts are rusty and likely dodgy.

A few good moves down low deteriorate to the usual dirt and choss. Up the groove right of Sewer Side past 3 bolts (crux at second) then up (wires and friends) and left to join Sewer Side at the top.

Steeper than the average slab, bigger than most climbs twice its length, with a fun roof. Start in the right hand of two slabby corners right of the river. Delicately up onto the arete past bolts to the roof. Crank across right to clip the peg (a 3/4 Friend and #4 rock back it up) then heelhook out left and slap blind (die laughing) for the jug above the lip. Follow the bolts to the birdshit and up the final steep headwall past another bolt to the double bolt belay and rap station. A two rope rap avoids the gruesome scramble up loose dirt to the top.

Another Bosch marvel. Takes the left-hand slabby corner left of Sewer Side. Up the slabby corner and arete past four bolts to the overhang. Reach up and clip a bolt, then a technical pull-through to a short crack (2 1/2 Friend and #3 rock). Up the wall above, right at first then back left, past two more bolts to the alcove in the BIG roof. Small wires protect the final clip, then bridge up and launch out left over the roof to a ledge and rap station. Two ropes to the ground.

Horrendously technical pocket climbing with more bolts than decent holds. Start on the brink, where the surf meets the slabs. Clip the bolt to avoid a watery death. Pull leftwards out over the waves to a sloping foothold, then cruise up past two more bolts. A small detour left, then relentless pocket pulling to the double bolt belay and rap chain.

More of the same steep pockets. Start as for Lure of the Sewer. Climb past two bolts, then lean left and clip a bolt below the little overlap. Move left keeping your feet below the overlap (crux) to a good pocket, then a jug and a bolt, of cours. Up directly past two more rawldrive surprises then back right to the rap stance on Lure of the Sewer.

A big route threading the major roofs. Quite sustained with brilliant moves through the top overhang. Double ropes, 11 draws and a #2 Friend are the essential items. Start as for Lure of the Sewer and Rising Damp. Left 5m as for Rising Damp, then up into the little V-groove. Follow this up and take the diagonal line to the roof (5 bolts to here). A #2 Friend protects the clip above, then seize the suspect mega-block and pull awkwardly through to good jugs and a bolt on the wall above (good rest on the guano ledge out left). Cross the wall rightwards (crux) to the diagonal crack and another bolt, find the high jug and gut loose left through the final roof onto a sloping ledge. Up and easily right past a final bolt to the rap station at the top of Doppelwandiger. Two ropes to the ground.

Fine pocket climbing down low and awkward groping past loose blocks in the first overhang. Takes a rightwards line crossing Gutter Crimes at the first roof; double ropes as usual.

1. 15m As for Rising Damp to the two bolt stance.

2. 30m Move right from the belay and climb the wall on deep pockets past 3 bolts, sharing the odd move with Sewer Rat. This will land you under the first roof on Gutter Crimes. Clip the bolt in the groove above and traverse right past another bolt and the suspect blocks, then long reaches right (crux) to big jugs, pockets and a bolt. Continue up past another bolt then some leftwards moves through the final roof to the last bolt on Gutter Crimes. Move right to the rap stance at the top of Doppelwandiger. Two ropes to the ground.

A devious climb which weaves around some big overhangs. Double ropes and some long slings will save major rope drag.

1. 15m Rising Damp to the two bolt stance.

2. 30m Up to the first bolt on Mission Brown, then right and up the corner past 3 more bolts to the hanging groove on Gutter Crimes. Up this (#2 Friend below the roof and a long sling to the bolt) and left onto the guano ledge [there's a two finger pocket in the roof left of Gutter Crimes groove for anyone who wants to take the route straight through...]. Clip another bolt (long sling) then out to the arete. Up past a high bolt (crux) to a thin crack (#1 rock) then up and right to the belay on Mission Brown.

3. 10m Stroll right to the rap stance above Doppelwandiger.

Overhangs like the outside of a toilet bowl but twice as slick. A Canberra sea-cliff classic taking the bulging groove in the middle of the wall. Start as for Lure of the Sewer and Rising Damp.

1. 15m Rising Damp to the two bolt stance.

2. 25m Fun moves through the roof past a couple of bolts, then into the groove above. Follow it past 3 more bolts to where it dies, then an action packed sequence past another bolt takes you up the right wall to the big roof (2 1/2 Friend). Traverse right to a two bolt stance.

3. 10m Right to the rap stance at the top of Doppelwandiger. Two ropes to the ground.

A three pitch excursion out over the tide and the turds, which also provides access to routes on the left-hand side of the cliff. Piranha carp await the hapless leader or second taking a tumble on this one.

1. 15m Traverse left from the first bolt on Lure of the Sewer. Two more bolts then a #3 rock, then left and up to the two bolt stance.

2. 15m Downclimb and keep traversing just above the water to a bolt. Left up the slab (small wires) and around the arete to another bolt. Cross the alcove (#1 1/2 Friend) then up left to a high stance (2 bolts).

3. 25m Up to a bolt then pull left through the roof. Up the slab (lots of wires) to where it steepens, then up the wall above (crux) trending slightly leftwards all the way past another 3 bolts. Double bolt belay on the ledge above. A 3m death scramble leads to the top (stay roped up).

50% slab below, 50% cave and overhanging headwall. If it weren't for all the loose and rotting rock (the former now mostly removed) this 20 m cliff would hold more promise.

Follow DTS but head up when you're on the tree ledge rather than traversing right to cross a rooflet. Move right (crux) to meet 4th bolt of WNWN.

Start from the 4th (right) belay bolt, moving up then traversing left before going up again and traversing right (crux) after the 3rd bolt to meet the 3rd bolt of Gas Mask & finish up GM or WNWN.

Start from either 3rd or 4th (right) belay bolt, passing 1st bolt of Drank The Slab and following the parallel left-leaning cracks on good micro RPs to 3rd bolt of DTS. Finish up GM or WNWN.

Follow Gas Mask to the 3rd bolt then move left around the cave roof to another bolt (14) and continue up and left to the leftmost DBB.

Easily up trending right starting from the 3rd (right) belay bolt.

The 3rd bolt is an easy reach up from the cave.

Crank through the roof, staying as far right as you dare, then up the headwall (move right then heel hook left) to the middle DBB.

Named for a wonderful smell that was blowing in from the sewage plant when I finally freed the headwall (solo).

2m left of first (rightmost) belay bolt. Head up and right on solid holds until you reach the vertical wall. Heel hook over it and walk up to DBB.

A variant finish probably exists up the crack system, not yet climbed.

A variant, slabby, start can be made from the 2nd belay bolt.

Starts 1 m right of the rightmost of the four belay bolts. Crux is the boulder problem start, which is easier for the tall. Very high first bolt, followed by delightful moves up to bolts and anchor shared with Better Out Than In. Named for a big flake that turned out to be loose and hit the route setter in the face on their first outing.

A shorter area with 8-20 m routes starting at grade 12. The short climbs are great for beginner & intermediate climbers with some exciting parts for all as well as some low-20 climbs

I went back to bolt this & couldn't find it again.

Maybe it only comes out in Summer. Or maybe it was too hard for me when I tried to free it on a microtraxion rather than using ascenders to pick the line.

My earlier notes wete: Essentially a V1/2 boulder problem on rope. Get established on the wall, throw for the good left sloper, stabilise on the right pocket then find a better pocket around the corner. A balancey reach up the arete leads to an easy scramble to the top.

What looks like an interesting bouldery start is actually very easy but has some fun eliminates. Up the pocketed face trending left, traverse right (exciting) & up to ledge. From there directly up with a short layback (more exciting) & crack climb to DBB.

15/12/2019 - block with last bolt before anchor removed with bolt in situ, first bolt tagged with red tape.

Named because no matter where you look you'll find something to hold on to. Nevertheless quite a fun climb, particularly above the ledge.

Shares 2nd bolt & DBB with TPWP.

Slightly overhanging and pumpy start on good jugs. Nice climbing through the low crux (well-protected) to an easy finish.

Up easily to start & slightly left. Find a right hand crimpy side pull on the otherwise blank face to make the ledge. Up from there through the rooflet then some awkward moves to the chains.

Project.

Not bolted.

A boulder at the top of the wall has 2 bolts for TR access.

An easy 5m crack for quick free solo (or trad, if falling in the water isn't your thing) access to Shit Line, Prairie Dog & Hung Like A Sewer Rat.

Easier than scrambling back up, around, and down the cliff.

Up to ledge on good (but reachy) holds then move right for a couple of moves before reaching the crack. Up the crack and arete for a tricky finish.

Named because it was first climbed on trad & there is zero protection for the first 2/3 of the climb.

A great link up following the 3 bolts of Skid Marks, delicately right to 3rd bolt of Uber Skid, more delicately right (find the side pull) to the 3rd bolt of Long Drop, then up to Long Drop anchors

Start at left side of ledge for a direct start to Skid Marks. Up the right side of the arete moving left to meet 2nd bolt of Skid Marks.

A direct line from the start of Super Skid using the face and flake, topping out at the ledge to the left of Long Drop. After the difficult crossover at bolt 1 position your feet for a good hold in the higher horizontal crack below bolt 2. Left crack & right pocket to layback until you're high enough to get good right holds on the flake. Clip bolt 3 & continue up the flake, using the big pocket at the top to move left to DBB or heelhook to ledge.

Up the right side of the first ledge, moving left around the rooflet (slightly exposed) and then up to ledge & DBB.

Up the right side of the first ledge, sharing 1st bolt with Long Drop, then directly up to second ledge. Think about dinner as you wander up the grassy gully (unprotected) for a few metres to the 2nd bolt & up for an enjoyable finish.

The dirty lichen infested cliffs on the far side of the river from Sewer wall.

Vegetated and well protected.

Climb slabby cracks towards the orange roof. Trend right to go around the arete. Rappel down Burial.

The last word in Canberra sea-cliffs. Mixed climbing (rock & lichen) on a big ugly slab, but the river's nice on a hot day & new routes await the avid gardener, landscape architect or demolition crew.

Fairly remote and probably requiring equal effort from upstream (Coppins Crossing by bike) or downstream via Stockdill drive.

Located in the Molonglo Nature Reserve roughly 20 minutes drive from the city center, Dwarf rock is a small crag (obviously) averaging 6 meters in height. The main route is a nice left hand crack climb, although one route has being bolted to the right, allowing a good fight for beginners. There are also some small boulders further up the river that have potential.

Left hand trad crack

Follow the main crack to the break as for Dwarf Tossing, then the right hand crack to use DTDSCAAT's anchor

Reachy slab moves to DBB

Couple of average moves out on the right arete up to DBB. No pro and no fun. Use the block or don't, whatever.

The only decent boulder in the area, located 20 meters to the right of the main crag. Start left on the face then straight up the middle.

Cooleman Ridge is part of the Laidlaw Volcanics. It's an excellent training ground although it won't prepare you for the long runouts you might find when tackling some of the routes around Canberra.

Park in Niblo or Darrell Pl and walk straight up the hill to a set of boulders past some trees. V0 to V8+ climbing. The area has been updated with a topo - not all climbs are listed as this is a guide to help you find which boulder is which. From there, the photo topos should get you onto the correct climb! Some of the angles on the drawn topo may also be slightly skewed.

The first area of Niblo that you come to. Everything from the road to the fenceline

Stand start then climb up and top out.

Straight up the most overhung part of the boulder, with no real footing to get you started. Hugely shouldery, height dependent as well but essentially a fairly short problem (shorter people can probably add 1-2 grades and will probably need to toe-hook the other side of the boulder just to get started on very poor slopers).

Bring a mat and a spotter - big sharp rock right in the fall zone. While this climb is quite short, it's also almost devoid of anywhere to place your feet.

Direct up the arete off the small flake. Balancy and thin with a deadpoint required. Mat and spotter mandatory if you like your back.

Up past the large flake and mantle out on top. A few variants, all roughly V1.

Thin crimpy and short direct line on face to right of the #6 large flake

Open project - traverse the obvious ridge of the icecream boulder near to #6 - all the way! Crux is the section facing to the road. Has been attempted many times, including by a foreign climber doing 8b on rope! If you send it, please grade it.

Quite a lot of the rock seems loose/hollow - use caution.

From front of the icecream traverse boulder, up and left from a stand start, top out to the left. Straight up a fair bit harder.

Straight up the front of the Icecream Boulder. Try not to rip off the crucial loose rubble on the right shoulder of the bottom block.

Bring spotters and mats and be prepared to fall. A few reasonable handholds, but expect to be 8 feet up falling onto hard packed earth should you not have eaten the wheaties to get yourself ready for this. Insecure, scary, dangerous. You have been warned.

Variation of number 6. The arete is the definitive climb in the CCA guide. V7 for the arete, V2 to join up with no. 6.

Direct to route #7 arete variant. Stand start using left hand side pull beneath middle of roof. Climb roof/arete and top out.

Straight up using the poor feet and the incut at chest height, incut higher up and the bulge. A few ways to do it but they're all mean.

Straight up the arete, topping out straight up through the seam. Hard!

One chipped hold, strenuous moves on tiny holds. Getting feet onto the rock is the crux - probably a 1-2 move problem, but hard ones nonetheless. Grade to be confirmed.

Sit start from low jug, climb up trending rightwards and top out.

Sit start from low jug, climb up trending leftwards and top out.

Before the fence, there's a group of boulders to the right. Sit start on the first 'face' climbable boulder, off two sidepulls and up. Strenuous, short, and massively contrived. Getting feet set is very, very tough.

The top of the hill, over the fence at the obvious location

Forget looking for holds - trust the friction, Luke. Sit start.

Friction climb. Very slabby.

For anyone feeling strong - needs a sit added. Round the corner from #13, the arete climb.

A one-hand pull up at the start throwing to sidepulls and small incuts for the feet. Once you stand up over the bulge, everything is easy sailing.

Sit start up the arete. Burly. Round the corner of the boulder from #12. Top out directly from the undercut side - don't pull around onto the slab.

Traverse the whole boulder (spraypainted boulder, home to The Dish and #s 14-18). Strenuous crimping/balance section, easy to fall off.

Anticlockwise traverse of the acid boulder

Easiest one on the rock. Ladder-like.

Somewhat forgettable with no really hard moves.

In the corner between #15 and #16. Easy moves to the top

Left of the dish - difficult to place feet until you get to the bucket.

Lovely compression climb just left of #17.

Straight up the acid traverse boulder on tiny crimps with a slopey as crap dish to help you along. May want to lose 5 kilos before hopping on it! V4 with the gaston, probably closer to V5 if you throw straight from the chipped incut crimps to the hueco.

From a stand start, head leftwards and up past a glory incut at head height to the hueco then up.

Sit start down low, then up as for the RH variant of #17.

Not to be confused with #14, the descent. Round the corner a little - can be climbed as an eliminate, upping the grade.

Sit start on jug. Traverse left round the corner into a sloper and undercling. Go straight up on the face for a crimp and sloper finish

Sit start. A large amount of rock has broken off on the left side. There is another large piece that is ready to go at any moment, but shouldn't affect the difficulty. Grade depends on whether you use the kneebar.

Sit start at right side of the face, then up arete to top out.

Sit start, at the end of the boulder sharing #21.

Lovely heel hook in this climb. Sit start.

Around the corner from #22. Tricky start.

Climb or dyno, either works.

Sit-start up the arete using the protruding block. Moving around to the other side, there's a truly lovely one handed layback possible. Otherwise, there's face holds.

Go from the bottom to the top. Layback, climb the face, do what you will really.

On the boulder off to the left and downhill a bit from the acid traverse boulder. If you look closely you can still see the number written on the boulder where the climb starts.

Technical and balancy sit start.

Sit start from the crimps low down to the incut then straight up.

Sit start (?) between #26 and #27.

Sit start.

On the wall facing up the hill.