Routes as sport in North West

Great line through the middle of the cliff, following a long thin black streak. Bring a couple of long draws to help with potential rope drag.

Notable as its the easiest sport route up the cliff. Do the first pitch of China Fingers. After this do a run out traverse into the fantastic headwall of Nothing Gets Crossed Out. Be careful of rope length when lowering. Maybe 24?

Start as first pitch of CF. Traverse left off the ledge and weave up the awesome orange face. Classic Pumping.

Start up the orange flake line on the right hand side of the cliff. The first pitch is tenuous and a little goey. The 2nd pitch goes directly up the beautiful black streak littered with small quartz dykes.

Right most route, left of where the cliff breaks down. Start up easy ramp and directly into very continuous, thin techy face climbing. After the 5th bolt head left and then up to a small overlap and steep head wall climbing between the twin cracks, which finally relents to a little slab and then steep flake.

Start: The arête 2m right of 'Blood Sport' requires creativity and determination.

Ingvar has confirmed the grade. Up the wall left of Kava Boy. Bouldery start from block leads to easier, but sustained moves, not overly bolted, but, safe. Rap anchor on ledge.

Unknown location.

Start 3m right of No Habla Espanol. Takes the unlikely arête feature.

Technical slabby crimpers. Starts 3m left of 'No Habla Espanol'.

Starts 2m left of Vertebrae. Pumpy underclings and nigh all footholds keep the juices flowing in the forearms. An interesting assortment of bolting technology adorns this climb. Five FH's and a u-bolt loweroff. A large wire could be useful between bolts one and two.

A great novelty warm-up. The route climbs the 'backbone' scoopy arete of the uphill side of the pillar past four FH's. Getting past the ever growing tree could be the crux! Rap off double rings.

Up Verterbrae to 4th bolt then step delicatly right onto arete and around onto face (FH). Desperate move up small edges to good finger lock finish. DRB lower-off.

Overheating sport fun for summer. Thin climbing up short rounded arete opposite 'Vertabrae'. Three FHs to double ring belay.

Start 3m right of Spanish Sahara. Start from ground off large boulders, hard moves up and over bulge then up face using right arête and face holds to double ring bolt anchor.

Start as for 1st bolt of Spanish Sahara. Up right passing bolt to vague arete, up arete passing another bolt to Spanish Sahara double ring anchor.

On the ledge directly behind Conflict of Interest. Stick clip first bolt, bridge tree for 1 metre until gaining good holds in seam. Move up via thin incuts to 2nd bolt, tricky traverse left to good holds and up to double ring lower offs.

Start directly below the 2nd bolt of Spanish Sahara from the ground. Either boulder it out to 2nd bolt or stick clip.

A much better way onto the Think You Can Dance arete via the orange face around right. Start just left of large suspended block, 3m left of Strike The First Blow and 2m right of the left arete.

On the east face in the chasm proper. Starts from large suspended chock-stone bridge. Three FH's up rounded rib leads to jug. Traverse right along break past large wire placement and FH then head straight up (FH) to chain. Route was originally climbed direct from the last FH instead of traversing off to the right on 'cheat' jugs.

Scoopy steep sport route. Starts below suspended chockstone belay of STFB on backside of northern pinnacle. Up into scoop and over rooflet then easily up jugs to tricky step right onto small ledge. Blast straight up orange overhung wall above to horizontal break and finish up left past the last FH of STFB to its rap chain. 6 RBs.

The rising line of bulges and ring bolts. Very shady!

Extension of A Bolt Too Far

Zig zagging seam on orange bulging north face about 10m right of 'Static Ticking Rampage'. The last great line of Red Rocks? Five years in the making after an aborted bolting attempt by Nick and Neil in 2001. Stickclip then batman up to first UB (or attempt the V10+ direct start!) Rightwards along very sloping rail then blast straight up bugling seam above. 6 UBs and double ring lower-off.

Long admired - now climbed! The u-bolted flared shiny orange crack on the west face of the Northern Pinnacle about 5m right of 'Hamstrung'. Brutal fingerlocks to start then up short reachy corner. Campus right along slick break to final crimpy face finish. Sustained. 6 bolts and lower-off.

Outrageous climbing. Starts as Redbacks pitch 2. After second RB veer left to obvious rest ledge on arête. Follow line of RB's left up the stunning rock on hidden pockets and edges. Rest in corner then power up steep finale. Recommend backclimb to clean. Extending first 3 draws is recommended. We used the following (1st RB 60cm, 2nd RB = 90cm, 3rd FH = 120cm)

Starts as Redbacks pitch 2. After second RB veer left to obvious rest ledge on arête. Follow line of FH's veering left up the spectacular orange face. Rope drag is an issue: a long draw (60cm) on the first and third bolts are recommended. Beware when lowering the climber as rope will most likely not reach the ground.

An alternative first pitch to 'Redback'. Starts 10m down and left of 'Conflict of Interest' at prominent arête between west facing orange wall and south facing grey wall. Nice balancy climbing with three FH's. Belay on ledge at DBB.

This one's for 'Justin Thyme'. A long juggy wall climb with a hard roof move down low. Start as for 'Conflict of Interest' on the south face of the southern pillar. At COI's first FH step left to UB and power through awkward roof and vague finger crack to stance. Up with a slight right trend past five further UB's to the same anchor as COI. Beware the runout just before the anchor. Some medium wires could be useful if you aren't feeling bold.

Links the start of 'Conflict of Interest' into the excellent juggy finish of 'Full Metal Vengeance'. Cross over at COI's third bolt.

Popular. Sport climbing up a grey techincal face on nubbins. Starts about 5m right of 'Red Ragging' on far right side of the south face. Wander up ultra grey jugs for 6m until you reach the red scooped rock (FH), step right then up through small roof then onwards past seven ringbolts to DRB lower off. Grade depends on how direct you pull the roof move. The further right you go the easier it gets!

Rising techincal traverse and crimpy face out left from 'Fat Fingered Freak'. From FFFs 2nd bolt head hard left on shallow slots to big break. Shake, then crimp like a fiend to next big break. Finish up further thin stuff to lower-off. 4th bolt is hard to clip without extension.

Pumpy with some novelty moves. Located 10m right of Conflict Of Interest in shaded chasm. Bouldery steep short corner (stickclip RB) to ledge. Step right then up left facing flake system (three RBs) to rap chain. Last bolt was added after first ascent.

The overhung knifeblade arete about 5m right of 'Variance'. Surprisingly pumpy and sustained. And - unless it has been rebolted - remember to take a bolt plate!

Stickclip RB for bouldery start then hang on for the ride up fragile sharp pockets and flakes past a BR and three UBs. This used to be mostly trad but was subsequently retroed to make it actually enjoyable. It was even solo-aided on trad by Neil as a means to get to the summit! WARNING - single clip-and-go lower off biner should not be used. Please thread directly through u-bolt. These biners can snap at very low weights.

The black slabs opposite 'Static Ticking Rampage' with prominent bolts. The left line. Up the slab past three FHs. A thin crux through the bulge (well protected by bolt) and finish up the arête as for 'Gandolf the Grey'. May be easier if you are tall. Double Bolt lower off.

Slab climbing in the Grampians? The right hand side line past one UB and four FHs. Pass 1st FH on the right to finish up the arête to a double bolt lower off.

A good warm-up route or worthwhile in its own right. Starts just right of descent gully for the 'Back Wall' routes (about 10m right of Height of Darkness) at small pillar.

Climb to the 2nd bolt of Two Weeks to a Beach Body, then had left onto the vague arête of Bikini Bootcamp and then up past the last two bolts of 'BB' to lower off.

Intense plaything with a bouldery start and much easier finish. Starts 1m right of 'Bikini Bootcamp'.

Arete / face downhill from Bikini Bootcamp. Start up RH side of slabby grey rib (as for Gimli) to base of undercut arete, up arete / wall past 3 x FH to lower off

Closed Project The imposing overhanging orange corner located on a ledge above Wimbelton.

Four FHs up thin orange face 3m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Finish is an awkward and tough mantle into the scoop with potential for hitting the back wall.

Would be a three star megaclassic if it wasn't tucked away in this gully. 4m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Chimney up the start to the first FH. Flakes, pockets and heucos lead up steep orange wall past eight FHs. Watch the lurking block behind you between the fourth and sixth bolts.

Arapiles like face you see on the left when entering crag x. Located adjacent to Red Rocks, the key is to access from other side of creek via cairns. Climb up gully to reach base of route. Bridge initial blankness. Pumpy!

Climb the left hand arête past 4 FH to anchors.

A shameless linkup. Climb past the first two bolts of Econo-babble, then step right onto the face and climb past three more bolts to the anchors.

Sustained climbing on small holds up the thin seam leads to better holds with big moves to the ‘best hold in the Grampians’, followed by a delicate face to gain the jugs to the top. It looks slightly contrived to stay away from the arête but the nature of the climbing dictates your ethical purity.

According to a bunch of yobbos who directed this insightful social observation at poor old Bill whilst he was jogging through Flinders Uni one afternoon. Technical and sustained climbing up the middle of the face with a steep juggy finish.

Follow the line of bolts just right of the arête to anchors

Up and right after the 2nd bolt on the "ledge" traverse.

The next line right of Solar Flare. Tricky slab, amazing jugs and a spicy finish.

Traverse the "ledge" to the final grey streak. Up this to rest in PNtT before a bouldery finale up and right on scoopy Taipan rock.

The full "ledge" traverse finishing at the ledge between pitches of PNtT. Trickier than it looks but interesting climbing on great rock. Either finish up that route or bring second across and rap off single (massive) U bolt. Take mid sized cams to belay 0.5 to 2 inch. Or finish up PNtT

The awesome steep red wall above the ledge on PNtT. Start up that route (3 camalot and small cams and wires) to ledge. Build an anchor and extend to over lip of ledge for rope drag. (Double length sling). A small camalot (0.3/0.4) protects clipping the first bolt (placed high to not impact PNtT). Very pumpy, steep climbing on jugs leads to a powerful finale on immaculate rock. A 1 camalot can be placed between the last bolt and the double ring bolt lower off. A 60m rope can be used to climb in a pitch and lower to the ground.

The line out the middle of the big red cave. Three sections with increasing difficulties separated by good rests. Rock quality is second to none at the top. Glory jugging up final corner to double U bolt belay.

An impossible looking line up the middle of the face past 3 ring bolts.

Vertical slabbing. Follow the thin line up a great closed seam past 3 RB to DBB.

Start right of the arête on the north-east corner, climb up to RB an then traverse left to arête. Follow arête past 3 RB to tricky top out. Rap off (either dodgy dead tree or the DBB above Russian Roulette).

A much better way to sample Dude's start. From the 2nd RB head up and right past 3FH to chains.

Climb the right arête past 4 RB to no anchor. It's possible to traverse left to chains, or to climb diagonally left from the last RB to chains.

Left-hand bolted line. Up small scoop past 2 FH. When it ends, trend desperately up and left to 3rd FH, then slightly left before blasting straight up unlikely wall past 4th FH to anchors.

Aka. the cheap Chinese petrol drill route…Straight up into, and through, the main scoop past 4 FH to anchors.

Climb up just right of the scoop past 5 FH to anchors. It might look slightly contrived, but as long as you avoid stepping into the scoop you’re forced to climb slightly right of the bolts and it’s totally independent and really good climbing.

Straight from the hermits Baha’i Faith Prayer book. Up the middle orange streak past 4 FH to anchors.

Start to the left of the black water streak and climb straight up past 4 FH to anchors.

Up deceptively overhung wall, starting just right of the black water streak. Easy but committing to the first bolt, so best to stick clip.

Start a few metres further right. Stick clip the first bolt. Climb from the left to giant dinner plate jug, then up wall above to ledge. After a breather, launch up the steep juggy headwall to anchors.

Start in the big cave below the window and climb the arete to the ledge. Step gently over the window then blast up the black groove to the anchors. Remarkably steep for the grade.

Start underneath the right end of the ledge (to the right of the main sandy cave). Climb up past a bolt, potter carefully left along the ledge, and then blast straight up past 4 more bolts to the anchors, enjoying the jugs while they last…

Start in the same spot. Once on the ledge continue straight up the juggy groove before launching up the orange wall to shared anchors.

Start up the same juggy groove, but after the second bolt bust out rightwards past a third to the anchors above the ledge.

Tough start (especially for shorties) leads to sustained climbing past 3 bolts to ledge and shared anchors.

Located on north facing wall about 100m west of 'Framed' (The Prow). Traverse up and left along easy wall (cam & RB) to below big heuco. Very reachy (impossible if short!) crux dyno to hecuo and into small cave. Out right and up steep wall to lower off. Six ringbolts.

Starts left of Talon. Mini route on simply great stone.

The left line in the cave. Cruxy flake on the lower wall, then juggy roof to finish. 5 RBs. Grade is skeptical as Neil thought it was much harder than 'Poison Bait'.

Up to Poison Bait's third bolt, then traverse left on slopers to finish up 'Talon'.

Bouldery start with five metre cieling. A sport classic!

Steep pumpy gym style climbing. Adds a hard direct start to Quasimodo's Dream on the Prow. Starts 3m right of 'Hunchback' at protruding wide tufa fin. Up this with difficulty (FH) to large jug. A thin move leads to killer jugs up outstanding orange wall. All bolts and new lower off.

Direct finish to malcolms project. Look for the anchor!

In cave underneath main prow. Walk 100m left from poison bait cave on scree. Outrageous line through guts of cave with a crazy crux.

Well bolted warm-up for The Gallery. RBs up right side of main bolted wall. Slabby start, pumpy end finishing up right to anchors. Below average height climbers won't be able to reach the second bolt while standing on the ledge and will need trad, stick clip or risk a ground fall.

Excellent wall climbing. Starts 5m left of I Need My Mother on south facing wall of Mother Buttress. Easily up for five metres to horizontal. Clip BR and layback up little reachy flake to gain line. Weave up jugs, flakes and cracks past a further two BRs and lots of good wire placements to slabby top-out. Rap off double U-bolts on ledge (25m).

‘Turtle-shell’ wall climbing. A very runout sport route or a very safe ‘mixed’ climb. Starts 5 metres left of Split Decision. Up easy slab to horizontal. Balance up seam (UB) and then blast up jugs to stance. Take the right bolted line past a further three UBs to top. A limited selection of large wires and medium cams can supplement the bolts. Rap from anchor on ledge above Split Decision.

Start just right of caves in gallery chasm. 4 U-bolts to lower off.

Start 5m right of 'Bang, Bang You're Dead!'. Balancy start past U-bolt. 5 more FHs (last one is hidden) show the way to the anchor.

Located on wall opposite the main Gallery cave. Climb obvious right facing wide corner or the face right of the corner passing one UB and two FH¹s. At the 2nd FH move right to doubly bolt lower off.

One move wonder and a soft touch.

Not a one move wonder, and not a soft touch.

Orange overhung arête 10m below and 20m left of the Gallery main cave. Ringbolts! Stick clip first bolt.

Tough boulderery start of the cairn. Follow the dyke feature to anchor. Thin, technical and sustained.

Fight your way through a selection of sharpish pillows to a blissful ramble.

A bit more pump than the other two

Classic pumping leads into a tricky traverse L to an exposed stance on the arete. Finish up on huge buckets.

Navigate your way through the maze of chalk on some of the biggest holds you're ever likely to find at this grade. Easier than 'Weaveworld' and a popular "warmup".

Another fun jug-haul. Has a tricky section in the middle, but the real crux is past the last bolt, which is the same finish as 'Chain of Fools'.

Linkup of a more petite fashion.

No prizes for guessing which routes...

It's 3 o'clock..tick tock..

A hard bouldery start, then it's a pumpy fight up and L to the same chain as the previous routes.

Starts as CTS finishes up MP. Classic pumping.