Ascents in Warrumbungles

Good addition to the bungles . Approx 30m of new climbing. The finger crack is great. The adventure begins on the approach.

Prometheus is Bound no more - we freed that motherfucker!!!!!! Holy dooooley this was a coming of age climb. My most gnarly to date.

18 hour mission - left camp at 8am, back at 2am. Type 1,2,3 fun, all in a day - 30 degs and sun does that. Only 2L water each, big L (defs sun stroke vibes). 2 parties of 2 but we sorta shared gear so ended up being kinda a 4.

I swung leads with Sam (side note - STOKED I got to send this together with him, my first climbing friend in Sydney, and before he leaves for the other side of the world!) and we went well. Couple of linked pitches meant I had the gnarly traverse pitch 6 that is not for the faint of heart. Haz lead Ashton and went a high line, which the guide specifically warns against, so Sam and I decided on a lower line. I was going well, foot jugs and pro for 7-8m around the corner then my line turned a pro-less 18 with thin holds and fuck that - talk about the fear of god! Back climbed, went up and followed Haz's line which was dece. Next pitch was night fall and on run out choss blocks so I shat brix, but yelled the loudest I ever have on a climb (and thats saying something) when I got round the arete to solid rock and placed a bomber cam and nut. I don't know what that feeling was. Rest was smooth up, beautiful, serene gratitude for it all.

The descent was on brand for the day. couldn't find the rap to save our lives (lol eventually did), but made the rap longer and harder for ourselves and bashed back to camp. The relief, accomplishment, commeradarie, stoke, fatigue, confusion and elation was all evident. I don't even know but in love with the story.

I FUCKING LOVE THE BUNGLES.

CHEERS FELLAS THAT WAS ANYTHIN!!!!!

Super sick! was the first climb of Easter Bungles' 24, on the arvo of arrival. Ran up with Haz. Boys back together. Did an extra pitch on the approach pretty much as we were bashing/scrambling up and that was harder than solo'ing the first 3 pitches of the rib. rock broke onto my leg and was a bit scratched up, but the rest of the day was sensational. Beaut climbing and were side by side with the rest of the crew going up cornerstone rib - fun day out for all!

An interesting day where we started with 5 and ended the day with 3 (no one fell off! 2 members bailed at the top of pitch III). We started at around 8am and returned at 11pm for a 15 hour day.

Initially this was climbed as 2 parties of 2 and 3. Marlee and Erika were the first party. I was with Anna and Jessie. We did not climb the pitches as numbered here. I will number the 'official' pitches in Roman and our pitches in Arabic numerals.

Excellent climbing. Loved the exposure on pitch IV! I would argue the climb is sandbagged because the move on pitch IV is harder than 14. Perhaps a grade 15/16 move? The rock quality on much of the route, especially the final 2 pitches is somewhat dubious, but good quality placements can be found with a little investigating.

Anna led the first 2 pitches (combined pitch I/II/III).

Marlee then made an attempt at pitch IV, but was a little spooked by the moves off a directional nut she placed and retreated. I then had to catch up so the full party was on the belay ledge. I led pitch IV (as pitch 3) while Erika and Jessie elected to bail due to anticipated time constraints. This later proved wise.

Rope drag was substantial on pitch 3 and 4, but otherwise uneventful. Anna led pitch 5 (combined pitches VI/VII) and earned the glory of summitting first.

Descent down the Green Glacier was confusing. Our beta is as follows.

1. Descend the gully until you find the rap chains.

2. Abseil off the chains for around 35m until the terrain eases off.

3. Walk down the Green Glacier for a while, navigating some steep bits.

4. Once the greenery ends, you should keep walking until you end up on a ledge with rap chains on the left side (facing out). This is beyond the tree with chains and containers of radioactive water attached.

5. Rap down to another ledge, follow the track into the trees on the right (facing out), initially down then up briefly until you see a cairn on a rocky outcrop. There should be some chains there.

6. Rap down to the ground ~50m.

A brutal introduction to the Bungles. The approach and descent were arguably much harder than any of the climbing!

I completed this climb in 2 long pitches. Rope drag was noticeable but not the worst I've experienced.

Descent down the abseil gully in the dark was difficult. And finding the "easy descent" after the second abseil was very difficult, with numerous false starts. The descent after the second abseil is to the left (facing the wall) and you should re-emerge on the ledge that you start Endeavour Face/Vertigo on. We ended up leaving some tat on a tree to safely lower ourselves, which was then returned to us a couple of days later by our new friends at camp who smartly climbed and returned during the day!

had a great time on this with Khush, both got a few leads, something different to doing Cornerstone for a 3rd time!! some cool moves, good gear and topped at a similar time to the party on Cornerstone, had chats on the way up. down in the dark but at like 9pm ish.

what an absolute MISSION this climb was. ever since seeing Dyl and Lee on it, the same time last year, we knew we had to Do it. it just looks at you when walking up from the carpark, its a must do for anyone brave enough. with Khush And Sam in the other pair, the 4 of us set off around 8am for the mega line climb of the weekend, with the hot sun coming up, it was going to be a long day. bashed around and finally found the start about 1030 I think. as Ashton wasn't leading I had to do every pitch, which was a struggle after a while, but well worth the push on. i was in front so some of the pitches I left gear in the climb for the others to lead on, which helped them, but made us all quiet slw together. first 4 or 5 were pretty good with the pitch 6 traverse being super exposed, I was told I took the line to high but except for the heinous drag, ended quite well. after that I think I did part of Pegesus, some sick corner finger crack, that Ashton really struggled on, but everything else was cruizy. until we got to the top in the dark and didn't remember where the rap was, took quite a while to figure out it was on the other summit. and then 1 hour turned to 2, then 4, then we were at camp at 2am. soo when you're out of water for 4 hours and not thinking too clearly, time just goes on. but all went physically well, and we got up the next day for another one!!

pretty good, Jordan got on his first lead for a while, then I finished the rest in a 55m and 15m pitch. after the epic the day before, getting off was super easy, and got back to camp at like 4pm.

A bit scary tbh

Lowball roof

Big move

Slightly contrived but cool moves

Had to rush because of wasp attack

Great climbing, mega classic. Nicer to climb with cool temps

More difficult than expected to find the start but well worth it. Nice easy climbing and good intro to the warrumbungles

Easier and nicer rock quality than Cornerstone Rib. Half day mission. Had to make some real decisions about where to climb, emotional support small nut to protect crux on pitch 3. Linked pitches 3 and 4 to top out right next to the logbook. Careful of the minefield of loose rocks at the top. Description is rather vague compared to sport climbs, it was a unique experience feeling lost while at the top of a 300m spire, rescue techniques would be complicated. Highly recommend!

Awesome day out. Well paced and easy enough climbing but committing and adventurous. Lovely day out. Crux pitch is certainly exposed, climbing with a pack is never fun. Good day out! Linked the last two pitches into one. Baby's first trad anchor!

Less loose blocks than CSR which was nice. Approx 6.5hrs round trip from the hut, climbing as a party of 3. Didn't really see much looking diagonally right on P2 so just went up following the good gear.

Another lovely adventure!!! Excellent, solid rock, with nice blocky slab moves on mostly edges/pulls. Excellent leads again by Rory Hentshel, with Michael 'Monty' Burns linking the final two pitches to take us to the summit! Beware - loose rock and scree for the finish.