Routes in Western Australia for selected grade

Came to Avon for adventure? Forget Sundance, get a group of friends, take the harnesses off and head up for a team ascent of this instead. From the start of 'Fresh Meat', head into the small cave and into a chimney adventure inside the crag. Squeeze your way up between the boulders, doing your best not to get stuck (best not stop for donuts on the drive up) and exit at the very top of the cliff. You wont regret it!

The obviously teetering corner. Take care, but it’s not too bad and I think all the teeters are too big to fall and seem mostly stale. Climbed by the Walyunga Druids of old. Up the teetering blocks on whichever side takes your fancy. Yes they wobble, it’s not the gum leaves you are smoking. Balance on the top and clip the historic relic. Stroke that beard and mantle the crux and belay from the assorted iron work on top or down solo under the moonlight, in the nude obviously.

The obvious V-section crack 2m right of Slash and Burn.

Just R of 'Ant - icipation' is a gully. Star 1m R of gully. Reach small crack at 4m, place small gear and go to top (tree belay or use belay on Bongo Man).

Climb the flake on the left side of the boulder to the horizontal crack. Big move over the lip and then follow the vertical crack to top out

Climb on the left end of chasm.

Start 1.5 m to left of Neurosis Sunday, straight up to then go left of the fin an continue up to DBB

The obvious hand jamming corner crack. DBB at top (requires hangers)

1 bolt then a couple of pieces of very small gear.

Obvious crack right of the corner.

Start 3m left of the V-shaped corner. Up broken corner then keep right on the rock to below overhanging corner. Up this using detached block to gain corner above. Continue to top via the left side of the steep wall above.

A climb that has no doubt seen a few "first ascents" yet never seemed to make it into a guidebook. As a result it has a few names and descriptions. Equipped with a lower off in 2021(?).

2020 Description: "Start at the base of LE staying between LE & AWA following the right trending crack. Takes a range of bomber wire nuts, no cams required. Top out over loose rock. Down climb to anchors for AWA & lower off.

2014 Description: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/a-wee-bit-of-fun-on-the-black-wall-at-stathams/ There is a thin crack running between Penthouse/Left Edge and Aerobics with Alan that is an entertaining exercise in placing tiny gear and minor runouts. There doesn’t seem to be a write up on it, and is probably a solo from the 60s/70s or one of those lines that have periodically been done but not written up. Does anyone know its history? We climbed it for a laugh at the end of a session. Start up as for PH. Clipping the first bolt might be a good idea, if only to lessen the chance of unzipping. Head slightly right on to the crack and merrily fiddle about with micro nuts, RPs and small nuts and cams while perched on the numerous edges. Follow the crack all the way up until it peters out, then continue straight up the face and top out pretty much where LE goes. Belay off the small trees on top. Watch out for the dead ones. Easy climbing, somewhere about 12-14, with the little gear keeping the interest up. If it doesn’t already have a name, Smallminded. Comments on grade? A Separovic and R Wainright 2014

2013 Ascent: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/some-new-routes-for-perth-quarries/

Fun spot climb for beginners 6 ring bolts.

NW facing end of the crag, obvious wide 'V'. Good protection available for first half of climb, until obvious ledge, then run out to one final piece of gear before solid natural anchors and RBs after top out.

The wall 1m left of GC. M. Rosser, N. Gledhill, J. Truscott 31 Aug 03

Perth Rock Climbing 2nd Edition: "Start in the middle of red slab forming the R part of the main slab. Straight up red streak then into 'The Tramlines' and up to yellow corner at foot of R wall. Straight up on the L and swing accross the face to pull over"

Orca bolt-line starts to the left of the tree, up a short scramble step, 3m. Not at the same level as the start of Plummeting Penguins. The upper section of the wall is decayed granite not suitable for bolting. A piton has been added to the line at the top. Protection is now 6 bolts and 1 piton. Committing face climbing with sustained moves. Needs 5 bolt plates and 6 QuickDraws. No lower offs need gear to anchor at the top, P bolts close by.

3 bolts protect the lower slab with natural pro at the top. Two bolts with rap rings.

route on the arête to the left of "Grotty".

The deepest jugs in Perth, you can sink your forearms into them (and wash your hands). 10m L and uphill from “Trampling on Roses”. 6 GIMBs and lower-offs.

Start via the pockety face left of Trampling on Roses until a long right trending crack is gained. This crack passes between the second and third CB of Trampling on Roses. Ends up on the large ledge 5m above the Whisper DBB. Second pitch is 10m to the blocks above.

Shares second bolt with Weird at My School. Single bolt belay.

Shares second bolt with Strange Idea. Single bolt belay

Groovy Moves 5m Gr14 Pete Thomas solo (15 June 2014) Well it has almost as much climbing as some of the other climbs here! Several metres R of Get A Grip, it is an obvious small groove that offers a short cut saving 10m of walking when you are about to walk up around the R end of the crag to access the top. I don’t think there’s any gear, but a spotter should suffice (thanks Richard). Pleasant bridging to a big jug and on to the top.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/major-new-climb-at-lost-world-fern-rd/

Did you drag a trad rack all the way down? Why not use it here....

Elusive beta Makes the crux up to the ledge either a graceful dive up, or a true blue collar struggle. From the ledge chimney out.

Obvious crack on middle of east face, 10m left of BRC

Squirm up the obvious chimney left of 'Restless Nights'. Up to you how deep you want to go

The manky thrutch just L of True Grit

Follow easy line of FH to DBB. 2 pitch is harder and has a broken bolt. Trad belay.

A very sharp hand jamming crack

Climb the sickle shaped crack well protected to end of crack then finish on top of boulder, run out finish

6 meters to the right of gods piece Small thin crack about 1 meter long, climb up to it for first piece of pro. Then climb to top

Climb up the flakes to the short slab section, avoid the ledge to the left. There are 2 carrots on top for lower offs

Stem or body jam up the large open crack in the center of the two boulders.

Start right of the white stripe, make your way up to the right... you'll see a few chisels that have been hammered into the rock but probably shouldn't be used as anchors but can be used to guide your rope. When you finish you'll come up some ropes to the right

Uses the same bolts as B Young. Stay right of the bolts