Routes in 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head

线路会路过 Strider 的挂片, 不确定的话可以多带两把快挂. The route will pass by hanger for Strider, so if you're unsure, it's a good idea to bring a couple of extra quickdraws.

Need to use the anchor of Beauty Is A Crual Mistress to lower or rappel.

Start in Dihedral, after second bolt traverse to the left. It's not necessary but to make cleaning easier after clipping second bolt unclip first, after clipping third bolt unclip second, or just climb Rat Attack after.

Start is same as route #6. Third bolt is the start of the variation going to the right under the roof. Last bolt and anchors same as #6.

Very easy. Good for learning lead climbing.

10.2021 Now has an additional bolt (#4) at the bottom, and no longer feels run out. Joe在起步的地方加了一个新挂片，比较安全。

10.2021 Joe has adjusted the first three bolts for better flow, and has added a bolt at the bottom. Joe调整了最低下三个挂片，又在起步的地方加了一个新挂片。

By Jay 章鱼

起步后7-8米是喇叭口形状的夹角烟囱，夹角有条手指细裂缝，无大手点脚点，且整体呈轻微仰角往上延伸，难度约10b，基本采用背撑方式往上挪，此段可放置小号机械塞或中号块塞，接近仰角上部裂缝渐宽，其中卡死一块拳头大石块，用绳套套住成为极佳的天然rock nut，安心不少，翻出仰角后进入直壁路段。 约6-7米直壁手掌宽平行裂缝路段，难度约10a左右，可安心放置中号机械塞，爬到一处小屋檐下休息，可见旁边屋檐底下巨大的蜂巢，已经废弃。屋檐夹角下有一处水平裂缝放置一个中号机械塞，需延长快挂，顿时让翻屋檐变的很安全。 翻上屋檐之后是一段5-6米略轻松的直壁路段，难度约.9+，直上来到一颗健康的小树，快乐的套上扁带，妥妥的安全。 过了小树保护点，进入一段轻微正角度的face面简单路段，难度约.9长度约7-8米，一路没有地方放置保护点，大概在距离小树6-7米高的地方才放置了塞子，虽然简单也是心跳加快。 最近翻上布满草丛的平台，拖着沉重的绳子走近顶部的大树，发现用大树做上方保护比较累，人是吊在树上的，于是在下方平台出用三把塞子建立了一个保护站，坐在平台边缘轻松的进行上方保护，看着风景等待跟攀搭档。 最后用70米绳子绕树绳降一次到底，总体来说，线路品质不错，可攀性好，最爱起步那段dihedral，另外放置保护点选择较多，常规尺寸塞子即可应付，安全性较高。

线路攀爬使用装备清单（仅供参考） 70m single rope（到顶后绕树下降，直接rappel down到底） 15 alpine draws DMM Dragon Cam #1-6 DMM Wallnuts #4#6#8 DMM Torque Nuts #2 2 BD 60cm slings（一个用于裂缝中卡死的石块，一个用于手臂粗细的树）

Sit start on obvious rail moving right and then directly up before the mini roof.

Sit start on the obvious rail moving right staying low through some powerful moves until you find yourself under the mini roof before heading up.

Sit Start, directly beneath the vertical crease in the wall with hands on the obvious rail. heading straight up in an moderately obvious sequence.

Sit Start, Directly below the highest point of the boulder heading straight up. the holds are all very obvious but yet not as easy as you first expect.

Stand Start at the FAR LEFT side of the boulder on the large rounded jug before traversing directly right. Stay LOW and use face holds only before reaching around the far corner.

Stand Start at the FAR LEFT side of the boulder on the large rounded jug before traversing directly right into the start of "#25" before climbing straight up on the obvious holds.

Hands match large sidepull, feet start low. Up to the sharp undercling where a rock has broken. Step up, finish by climbing directly up. Holds left of the sharp undercling are off route.

Stand Start, left hand on sidepull/undercling and right hand on small horizontal face crimp. Head right until both feet are on the obvious foot rail and then directly up and left taking advantage of a small right hand crimp and some sloped edges. good luck finding decent feet.