Nodes in Secteur Saphir

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One of the most classic routes in d'en Vau. Due to its age and popularity, the polish of this route is as extraordinary as the views you get on it.

Listed as 4c or 5a in some guidebooks, it is probably closer to 5c from a modern point of view, taking into account the vanishing foot holds.

5 pitches, but commonly done in 4: First steep pitch (4c/5a), second "ridge walk" pitch around 2 (in the middle of ridge there is another anchor), linking third and fourth pitch up to half of the headwall (5a and then ~5c, 5a originally), and final pitch (4c, 3+ originally). On the headwall, there are two variations right of the original line, both graded at 5c.

Descent: Follow the cairns until you find the hiking paths up on the plateau. You're one the wrong trail if the rock is not polished under your feet. From the plateau, go down again to the beach or walk out.

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/