| Node |
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En Vau
It could be considered as the perl of the Calanque: The climbing is excellent and the location is spectacular. And this makes it also very crowded, for climbers and not. During the week end the beach is full of people, so the climbing routes. About protection, most routes are recently renewed, but it's a good idea to bring a set of nuts and maybe a few small cams. |
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Rive Gauche
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche |
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Le Pouce
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche Le Pouce |
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5c
★★★ Pouce Normal
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6a
★★ Pouce Integral
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6b+
La Paume
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6c
Les Petits Suisse
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6a
La Brioche
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6c
Direct de la Brioche
Same start as "La Brioche", it separates at the 2nd belay and goes left. |
| Rive Gauche |
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Grande Aiguille
Very nice "needle" that has 30 meters high routes. From the top you have a nice vue on the valley. Climb is in the sun from morning to evening. |
| Rive Gauche Grande Aiguille |
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4a
★★ La Paillon
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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5c
★ Le G.H.M.
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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4b
★ L'A.M.E
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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3c
Voie Abeille
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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5c
Voie du Surplomb
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche |
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Sirène
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche Sirène |
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5c
★★★ Pilier de la sirène
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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4c
★ Sirène Liautard
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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5c
La réforme
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6b
★★ Super Sirène
The classic line up the front of the buttress. Very polished. |
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5
Couloir de la Sirène
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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5+
Pilier - variante
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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5b
La Sans Nom
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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5a
★★ Pilier de la Sans Nom
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche |
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Saphir et Petite Aiguille
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche Saphir et Petite Aiguille |
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Petit Aiguille
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche Saphir et Petite Aiguille Petit Aiguille |
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South Face
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche Saphir et Petite Aiguille Petit Aiguille South Face |
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5a
★ La Diagonale
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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5c
Directe de Gauche
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6a
★ Directe de Droite
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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4c
Face a Mer
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche Saphir et Petite Aiguille Petit Aiguille |
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North and West Faces
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche Saphir et Petite Aiguille Petit Aiguille North and West Faces |
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5c
★ Le tord boyau
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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5c
★★ La Face Nord-Ouest
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6a
La B.B.
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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5b
★ La Directe
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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5b
★★ La Ratopenado
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche Saphir et Petite Aiguille |
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Secteur Saphir
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche Saphir et Petite Aiguille Secteur Saphir |
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5a
★★ La Saphir
One of the most classic routes in d'en Vau. Due to its age and popularity, the polish of this route is as extraordinary as the views you get on it. Listed as 4c or 5a in some guidebooks, it is probably closer to 5c from a modern point of view, taking into account the vanishing foot holds. 5 pitches, but commonly done in 4: First steep pitch (4c/5a), second "ridge walk" pitch around 2 (in the middle of ridge there is another anchor), linking third and fourth pitch up to half of the headwall (5a and then ~5c, 5a originally), and final pitch (4c, 3+ originally). On the headwall, there are two variations right of the original line, both graded at 5c. Descent: Follow the cairns until you find the hiking paths up on the plateau. You're one the wrong trail if the rock is not polished under your feet. From the plateau, go down again to the beach or walk out. |
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5c
La Sortie des Artistes
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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5c+
Directe de la Pierre Fine
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche |
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Dalle du Chat
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche Dalle du Chat |
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6b
???
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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7a
Le Train Sauvage
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6b
Le Gynecologue
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6b
Passagers du Vent
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6b+
Troisième Sexe
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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5c
★★★ Sale Temps pour les Nains
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche |
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Dalle de la Conversation
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche Dalle de la Conversation |
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6a+
La Pezbouby
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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5c
Arete du peigne
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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5b
La Grotte d'Ali Baba
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6a
★★ La Conversation
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6b+
★ La constipation
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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7a
Yoghourt Acide
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6c
Over Dance
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6b
Nenesse le Bienheureux
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6b
Mon ongle d'amerique
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche |
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Doigt de Dieu
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche Doigt de Dieu |
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6b
Doigt de Dieu Integral
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6b
★★ Doigt de Dieu Integral, variante
same start as doigt de dieu, last pitch slightly on the left for the variante. |
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7a+
La Dany Revest
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6c
Mort pour la Transe
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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7b
Week-end à Rome
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche |
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Piolet
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche Piolet |
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7b
Indiana Steroid
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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7b+
Moira
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche |
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L'arête des garçons de café
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Gauche L'arête des garçons de café |
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4c
★ L'arête des garçons de café
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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Rive Droite
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Droite |
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Le Gabian
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Droite Le Gabian |
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6c+
C'est du Vrai Café
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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7b
C'est de la Vrai Pastèque
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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A2
Le Gabian
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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A2
Le Marabout
Start like Le Gabian, separates at the first belay to go right. |
| Rive Droite |
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L'arche
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Droite L'arche |
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6a A2
Eperon de l'Arche des Marseillais
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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3b A3
Eperon de l'Arche des Américains
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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4c
Voie de l'Arche
coinceurs et quelques pitons indispensables |
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5c
Super Calanque
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Droite |
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Americains
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Droite Americains |
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5c
Super Calanque
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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8a
Hyper Calanque
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6a+
★ Le Calendal
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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5b
La Calanque
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6a+
Directe de la Calanque
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6c+
Le Vibro Tasseur
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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5b
La Lionne
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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7b
Accroches Toi la Vie
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6c
La Gamma
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6b
La Participation
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6b
Coeur Grenadine
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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7a+
Les Rues Sont Pleines de Promesses
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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7a+
Le Bateau Ivre
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6b+
★ Eperon des Americains
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6a
★ La Revolution
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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5b
★ La Si-Ray
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
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6a
Les Larmes au Soleil
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Droite |
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Passerelle
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |
| Rive Droite Passerelle |
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6c
Pilier Droit du Couloir du Milieu
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/ |