Torre Preuß

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 22
  • Aka: Kleinste Zinne
  • Aka: Preußturm
  • Aka: Cima Piccolisima




Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 4 18m
2 1 7m
3 5 20m
4 5 30m
5 5- 35m
6 4+ 35m
7 4+ 40m
8 4+ 50m
  1. Start right from the plate, up and right trough cracks/corners on the ledge.

  2. Ledge (join with the first pitch), go left, anchor is just below the crack.

  3. Up the crack above the anchor, slightly right and up after the second piton.

  4. Straight up from the anchor, layback, continue left. Anchor is at the bottom of the big chimney,

  5. Climb on the right wall (on the edge), clip the sling and go left to the chimney. Continue in the chimney, to the anchor.

  6. Climb in the chimney. After approx. 20m there is an anchor, but you can continue (climb on the left side) another 15m to the start of the most exposed pitch. The anchor is 3m deep in the chimney.

  7. The coolest pitch (see the picture). Just go up, above the anchor keep going up and left to the outer side of the chimney. There are 2 pitons after 30m. You can belay from here. (In some topos the pitch is 40m.. so you can perhaps belay bit further somewhere below the stuck boulder)..

  8. Go up the chimney to the stuck boulder. In some topos, after the boulder, you can climb on the right wall. However the rock is quite loose. I was told that it’s better to stay in the chimney..

Descend: There is probably more options. I will describe how we did it:

  1. On the top of the tower on the south side there is anchor. Start rappelling and keep a bit left (if you are looking to the top) . You’ll see a new anchor after less than 30m..

  2. Don’t rappel straight down. Keep left, you have to rappel to the west edge of the tower to the cairn. Not sure it this is less than 30m but it should be possible.. last few meters are easy

  3. use an older anchor with a big ring on the west edge near the cairn, and rappel down to the saddle. There is an anchor (a bolt) in between (maybe after 15m) if you have double ropes, you can skip this and just rappel down..

  4. Rappel down the couloir, the anchor is in less than 30m, on the left wall (if you are looking to the saddle)

  5. Rappel down the couloir, 55m, the ring is on a big boulder in the couloir. If you have shorter rope, you can walk down, however there may be a lot of snow in the couloir in early summer (Jun, July)

  6. Rappel down the couloir (40-50m), the bolt is on the right wall, connected with a sling with a ring in the couloir.

  7. Final rappel, straight down.


  1. You don’t have to climb with the shoes, the start of the route is just 5min away from the couloir you will descend..

  2. There are lot of stones in the couloir, the rappelling is quite dangerous if there are other parties descending.

FA: Paul Preuß & P. Relly, 1911

1 5- 25m
2 5- 30m
3 6 25m
4 7- 25m
5 7- 28m
6 6- 30m
7 5+ 15m
8 5+ 25m
9 5+ 30m
10 3 30m
11 4 50m
12 4+ 30m

FA: Cassin, Vitali & Pozzi, 1934

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Erik Švab and Giovanni Renzi,

Date: 2009

ISBN: 9788887890976

This is the comprehensive guidebook describing the traditional and bolted routes on the famous spires of Tre Cime, covering over 100 routes on both the north and south faces with routes up to 550m long.

Author(s): Guido Colombetti

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9788855470599

A selective guidebook describing 105 different sport climbing crags throughout the whole of the Dolomites area, covering the best of the low-level sport climbing across the region, including both single and multi-pitch routes.

Author(s): Idea Montagna

Date: 2021

Climbing guidebook for the best sport climbing areas around Cortina d'Ampezzoin - the guide included 31 areas

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this


Check out what is happening in Torre Preuß.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文