Routes in Kwa-Zulu Natal for selected grade

Bad bolts - awaiting rebolt

No anchors

Named after spectators reaction to a fall. Excellent rock.

A long, right-tending line with some pumpy moves at the end. Don't get confused by the bolts that appear higher up near the arete on the left. These are due to the fact that the next route crosses over 'Flintstone's Kid' and then follows the arete.

Start at the base of running on empty. Climb diagonally left across the blankish face up to the ledge which is visible. Gear is not that great.

• ie very shit!, ends on ledge.

Start on the face just left of the large tree in the recess. Climb up to a ledge and then climb the crack and face above to the top

Start five metres right of Whippersnapper. Pull into the square-cut recess and move left onto the face above. Move up to the highest point in the roof above and break through on the left past two pegs. Climb the face above and continue to the top keeping to the right of Microphobia.

Start at the tree at the bottom of Virgin. Move out left to a block on the nose. Traverse back right to the centre of the wall. Climb up between rails and exit just right of the bush.

Starts from the same block as Sizzle. Climb up to a peg, pull through the roof and continue up to a bolt. Finish slightly to the right on thin holds.

Start on a ledge four metres left and up from Satellite.

Pull up right and then back left to a huge bucket. Move straight up to a poor peg. Continue up and slightly right to the top.

Contrived, but technical with some good moves. Start as for Nog High and continue on this climb until four metres along the traverse from the tree. Climb straight up from this point keeping left of the shallow open book. Move right to exit.

A very popular route that lives up to its name - follow the splodges. Climb the recess on the left-hand side of the crumbly rock and pull through the roof onto the wall above. Continue past a flake to the Nog High rail. Move left and pull through the roof above to finish straight up.

Contrived, but technical climbing. Starts from the large block at the base of Pin Up. Step off the block and traverse left immediately using a thin hand rail for about two metres. Climb the wall and move back right to a shallow recess and then onto a block below a small roof. Pull through the roof and continue up a thin layback flake to the Pin Up flake. Traverse left (reversing the Adam’s Apoplexy Variation traverse) to the shallow recess which is climbed to the top.

Originally an old aid route opened by Colin Shuttleworth called Wobble. Start at the flake to the right of Pin Up.

Climb the flake to the rail. Continue up the face via a hidden hold on the right to another rail with a peg. Move one metre right and then up past another peg to the top rail. Traverse right onto the good foothold (ie onto Granny’s) and then pull up until able to stand on the rail. Do one move left and finish.

Start as for Hokkaido to the ledge and continue up the short, steep wall above, passing two bolts.

This route supersedes Mithril, opened in 1980 by Adrian Jardin and Steve Bradshaw. Start two metres right of Return to Fantasy.

Climb up the face to a bulge. Climb through this and onto the slab below the roof. Move right to the obvious break in the roof. Climb straight up to a ledge and finish up the crack.

The line is recognisable by the large glue-in ring bolts to the right of Suicide Wall. Climb straight up the face. Some additional gear is required.

Short, but superb corner to the right of the vegetated corner that forms UFO (described in Odds and Sods). The climb starts from a ledge with a tree. It is easier to abseil to the start.

A more direct version of Daydreamer offering aesthetic moves on clean rock. Climb directly up the middle of the face. Supplement the bolts with a medium (No. 2-3) Friend and two opposed No. 1 Rocks near the top.

Starts on the huge ledge about one third of the way up the arete. Climb the overhanging arete on excellent natural gear.

Start on the boulder at the bottom of the short, overhanging east-facing wall. Climb the left-hand edge of the wall, keeping just right of the arete.

About another 30m beyond the two preceding hard lines.

Excellent climbing.

This route is in the left-hand face of the 'Verooka Palooka' open book. Start 2m to the left of the blocks at the base of the wall. Pull up to the rail then follow the laybacks up the obvious break to a peg. Climb past this and exit to the left.

Start on the blocks in the 'Verooka Palooka' corner, just to the right of 'Moon on Ice', and immediately to the left of a small tree. Climb straight up to the top past two bolts.

Start below a low roof on the wall to the right of 'Big Mamma'. Pull through this roof below the small tree and finish up the break.

(People who burden us with route names like this probably need to visit a psychologist.)

The chains of Disciplinary Hearing have been moved up and right - pushing the grade of that line up from 21 to 22/23.

Sit start on a rail and climb left with the crack and cutaway arete feature

Start as for Purple People Eater but then tend left up a vague crack for ~3m before following a right slanting ramp (no gear) for ±4m to a horizontal break. Continue up and then slightly right to the chains on Dingiswayo.

Left of Charybdis. Not yet bolted. Follow the bolts to the ledge, then up to the chains at the top. Unclip the first bolt above the ledge after clipping the second to avoid rope drag.

Start about 4 m to the right of 'Rumours of Rain'. Climb up the thin crack through the steep bulge. Follow the break then undercling through the roof which curves off to the left. Exit diagonally left up the undercling flakes. A classic crack line.

Start at a point just before the ground begins to rise. Boulder up past a very bad ring-peg to a small roof. Pull through diagonally left and climb up to a black streak. Continue up to a huge jug left of some grass. Climb straight up the white wall to finish.

Shares the first few bolts of Accidental Strawberry, but breaks up and right.

Start to the right of the recess, gain the crack above and follow it as it curves up and right before heading straight up to a small ledge. Finish to the left.

Climb the bolt line between the large fig tree and the arête about 35m past the previous climb. Route name, grade & FA details from H.Payne's Winston Park Route Guide ('22).

Twenty metres right of the Microcave. Overhanging start leads to fun moves on jugs, then a solid rest before the overhang begins again.