Routes in Magaliesberg for selected grade

To the left of the 'Aftermath' buttress is a shorter buttress. About halfway along this buttress is an obvious corner. Start beneath the corner.

1. 30m 18 Climb the corner until suspect rock forces one to traverse right 5m. Climb the face to a good ledge.

2. 30m 13 Move diagonally right and up past some bushes to a ledge.

3. 40m 8 Climb non-descript rock to the top.

60m ropes are recommended, which will allow a single abseil descent from the tree at the top.

2 meters to the right of 'Finger Thing' is a vertical crack line that tends right to a small roof at 10 meters

1. 23m 18 Climb the crack and surmount the roof (crux). Continue up the crack to its end, then straight up the face above to the right hand end of a good ledge and tree belay (common with 'Finger Thing')

2. 20m 16 From the right end of the stance, climb up tending right to a ledge at 10m. Traverse right 3m to avoid some dodgy large flakes. Climb vertically up through a chimney recess just left of a predominant nose (which can be seen from ground level) to a good ledge in front of a cubby hole.

3. 10m 14 Climb straight up to the top

Left of 'Appie Doctor', halfway up the crag a V-shaped groove may be seen. The route ascends the crack below this to gain the groove. Begin 5m right of 'Five Roses' (tiny cave at bed level.

1. 20m 15 Ascend the open book for 10m, move left onto face and up to ledge below crack.

2. 20m 18 Climb the crack to gain the base of the V-groove. Ascend the groove to the top.

This climb starts almost opposite 'Gunsight' in the centre of a buttress where a root (about 8cm in diameter) from a tree half way up the face passes into the ground.

1. 23m 18 Climb the recess with the root in it until the tree lies to ones left. Make an awkward move rightwards to below an overhang with a crack through it. Climb the overhang (crux) to a good ledge.

2. 15m 13 Moving slightly left above the ledge climb the recess and crack system to the top.

Note: The crux on pitch 1 can be avoided by traversing right lower down and climbing easier rock to the ledge.

The climb starts in the base of the recess 4m to the right of 'KB One'. There is a rhombohedral overhang about 20m up.

1. 38m 18 Climb the recess past small trees to the overhang. Pull through the notch in the overhang to the ledge. Traverse 1,5m left under the second overhang, up the face for 3m and back right into the recess above the second overhang. Climb the recess and rib above to the top.

Note: Climbing through the second overhang was done by the second at 19.

This route takes the steep face 5m to the right of and upstream of the climb 'The Squat Pinnacle'.

1. 30m 18 Climb the easy face up to the overhang, move through the overhang on the left side (crux). Continue up the face to a good ledge (avoiding easy open book to the left). Climb the recess/chimney at the back of the ledge to the overhang, surmount the overhang and continue to the top.

Note: This climb can be split into 2 pitches.

Take the slim groove 5m right of 'Circle Of Hands'. Step off the tree and climb the groove direct.

This climb starts downstream of 'Fiona's Folly' and 'Petfatars' and ascends an obvious recess with a wide off-width crack in the upper section.

1. 25m 18 Ascend the recess with the crux at the top off-width section. Scramble to a large ledge.

2. 30m 12 Move down and leftward from the ledge to stand on a block. Climb the steep face on good grips to an open book with a slab on the right. Climb the slab to a good ledge.

3. 30m 12 Climb a series of open books up the arete to the top of the crag.

Note: #4 Friends are useful on the 1st pitch.

This climb starts about 12m left of 'Foetus' at a squat 3m pillar in front of a blunt arete.

1. 25m 18 Climb up the front of the pillar. Using some holds on the left, ascend the thin crack on the right. Climb the shallow groove above. Step right onto the arete and pull up to a large ledge.

1. 25m 18 Starting at the tree 5m left of 'Foetus', climb the crack to easier ground.

Start upstream of a small buttress angled 45o facing upstream and scramble 15m up to the back of a very deep chimney.

1. [11] 22m

   Climb the back of the chimney by straddling and chimneying and move out right to a large ledge.

2. [18] 22m

   Ascend the magnificent red smooth-sided corner to a large ledge.

3. [6] 7m

   Climb the crack at the back of the ledge.

On the opposite side of the kloof to the GRASSY SLAB the river runs (occasionally) over some polished slabs right next to the krantz. 'Right Slant' goes up the steep recess above the slabs. 5m upstream there is a corner capped by an overhang 20m up. A small tree grows at the foot of the corner. The climb goes up this corner.

1. 32m 18 Climb the corner to the overhang. Traverse left across the slab beneath the overhang. Traverse a few meters further left and climb up to the cubbyhole at the base of a steep face .

2. 22m 15 Climb diagonally right to the large tree on the face. Continue up to the overhang on the left. Turn the overhang by climbing up and right and continue up to another overhang. Bypass this on the left and continue to the ledge.

3. 27m 8 Scramble up to a face on the right and climb it.

The intention was to free the aid on 'Right Slant', but a completely new line was found 4m to the right.

1. 20m 17 Climb onto large block then ascend corner to tree noted on Pitch 1 of 'Right Slant'. Belay just above.

2. 20m 18 Straight up into the corner capped by the overhang. Step out onto the right wall and up.

Start approximately 8m downstream of 'Gunsight' , in the triangular cave about 10m up.

1. 30m 18 Climb to apex of cave and exit via crack above. Climb up narrow chimney past overhang to the top.

Start 5m to the left of 'Lifebuoy'.

1. 40m 18 Climb the face tending diagonally right to just above the "lifebuoy" hold. Continue up the face to the top, just to the right of the 'Lifebuoy Direct' crack.

The route is located between 'George' and 'Headache'. Between these climbs prominent overhangs cross the face about 1/3 to 2/3 way up. The first overhang is passed by climbing the same recess used by the first pitch of 'Headache', but 3m to the right. The route avoids the second overhang by traversing across the undercut face between the overhangs and ascending to a prominent nose.

1. [18] 15m

   Start from same ledge as 'Headache' but 3m to right. Ascend white recessed face, past fixed piton 3m up to a small stance (piton belay).

2. [X15,A1] 12m

   Diagonally right, 9m up. Traverse right around rib into crack. Ascend crack then traverse about 3m across face with 3 pitons (A1). The piton crack used is 1,5m above the undercut bottom edge of the face. Climb diagonally right from the last piton into a shallow recess. Ascend the recess to overhang and then swing out to right onto tip of nose. (Piton belay - this stance is 6m to left of stance at top of pitch 3 of 'George').

3. [10] 15m

   Ascend sloping face to top, finishing with short chimney.

Variations: 2a. 18 Instead of traversing on aid, continue up for 8m, then move right across wall over to the nose. 2b and 3b. 25m 19 Instead of traversing right on Pitch 2, climb directly up the flared crack to the top.

The climb ascends the steep red wall immediately left of 'Skeleton' and follows the arete to the top. Ascend the slab to the left of 'Skeleton' cave and chockstone belay, below the corner.

1. 18m 18 A meter-and-a-half left of the corner taken by 'Skeleton' is a shallow groove running up the red wall. Ascend this (18) for 6m, then follow good incut holds up leftwards to the arete. Continue up the arete to a ledge and peg belay.

2. 12m 13 Continue up the arete to the top.

Downstream from 'Pink Corner', on the same side of the kloof is a small pinnacle, the top of which is lower than the top of the kloof wall. On the left of the pinnacle is a crack which runs the whole way up the krantz, ending in a spectacular open book.

1. 18m 16 Ascend short wall to the left of the crack climbing right in a series of short steps to foot of crack. Ascend the off-width crack to the first reasonable ledge where there is a tree belay. (The face to the left is easier.)

2. 12m 10 Continue up the crack to just below the open book. There is a good chockstone.

3. 15m 18 Climb the open book (chockstone half way up).

Ascends the obvious couloir capped by a large overhang, on the left hand side of the kloof, directly opposite the First Aid dump.

1. [18] 38m Climb right hand side of couloir on good but extremely polished holds. Move into the back of the couloir and ascend to below the overhang immediately right of slab. Move up and left across slab to gain easier ground. Finish up easier rock above.

Three-quarters of the way up Castle Gully there is a prominent buttress, which in fact separates Castle Gully from Rock Gully. On the buttress, on the Castle Gully side, there is a prominent wedge-shaped ridge on top of which there is a small pinnacle. The climb is situated on the downstream face of this ridge.

1. [17] 18m

   Climb the face, starting near the outer edge, for about 5m on small flat holds. Then move diagonally left into the recess at the junction of the ridge with the buttress. Ascend the recess to a tree belay.

2. 15m 18 Traverse right across the face on small grips to a narrow crack near the right hand edge. Ascend the crack, (mainly on arms) as far as the base of the pinnacle. Thence traverse to the right and up the back of the pinnacle to the top.

Scramble about 30m up to the ledge at the base of the 'Muffin-Direct' corner. Start about 50m to the right of the start of the 'Muffin-Direct' corner below a prominent steep left facing and leaning recess with a crack of very uniform width (No 1 to 1.5 "Friends") running up its entire height.

1. [18] 25m

   Climb easily up to a tree in the crack and climb awkwardly through it. Continue up the layback crack to the top of the recess (crux towards the top).

2. 15m 8 Climb easily to the top.

Between Reunion gully and the 'Cream Team' gully is an upstream-facing wall about 20m high.

1. 20m 18 Start in the middle of the face (cairn) and climb the blocky crack to a ledge (6m). Move a meter right and climb up for a few meters until it is possible to move diagonally left to a recess which is followed to the top.

The route is situated approximately halfway down Short Gully and starts 2m right of 'Mike's Despair'. Commence at the foot of the grey slab below the narrow crack system and climb straight up. The route crosses 'Mike's Despair' at its first stance.

1. 35m 18 Climb the grey slab using the crack system for small protection. Mantle onto whoever is occupying the first stance of 'Mike's Despair' and break through the roof behind. Continue up to gain the open book behind. Follow the right-leaning #3.5 friend crack to the top.

Note:

The slab is excellent thin face climbing.

The route starts immediately right of the original first pitch of 'Red Corner', i.e. at the foot of the right-angled corner which defines the latter route.

1. [18] 12m

   Start in cave-like recess at the bottom of the corner. After successive pull-ups on fair grips diagonally up to the right a resting spot is reached on the steep face. Alternatively tall climbers can straddle up the corner i.e. 'Red Corner', and after 3m make a wide step across and swing on to the face. From the resting spot move diagonally right to a platform stance on the outer corner.

2. 20m 13 Traverse 4m right to recess. Climb recess to ledge and tree belay.

3. 25m 7 Continue up the recess to top.

Variation:

By starting at the base of the second pitch crack, the first pitch and the traverse of the second pitch are avoided (13).

The climb is on the right hand side of the kloof directly above the very large boulder separating the Eel Pool and the big deep pool immediately downstream. Scramble up into a small cave some 6mabove the boulder.

1. 12m 18 Traverse left around a corner at the level of the bottom of the cave. Then move upwards (steep and delicate at first) to point at extreme end of main overhang which runs along the face from 'Lost Trail'. One man stance.

2. 22m 15 Traverse left for 2m, ascend a few meters then traverse 9m right above the overhang where a long crack running up from right to left is reached. This crack affords the only passage through a barrier of smooth slabs. Ascend it for 15m until above the slab zone, where a small but good belay is reached.

3. 30m 7 Diagonally left for a few meters then traverse right to above the belay, from which point ascend easier rock to top.

The route takes the initially root choked, overhanging open book some 5m upstream of 'Genesis' on the first buttress on the left walking in from the south - Boggling climbing.

1. 25m 18 Grovel past the tree roots to some really good climbing. Move up to the crux at thin vertical rock knife blade (past rusty old peg). Ascend crack, with thin protection, to about 2m below top at which point move delicately left onto arete and ascend chicken heads to comfortable belay stance above.

Note: Excellent climbing on steep clean rock.

This climb ascends directly up a coffin shaped buttress approximately 25m left of 'Scandal', immediately opposite the campsite. The buttress starts about half way up the crag and is undercut by a reddish overhang which has small wild figs growing in it. There is a further orange overhang higher up on the left hand side of the buttress. The start is opposite a grey block at a point where a tree meets a steep grey face which is undercut at ground level i.e. Approximately 2m left of an easy recess.

1. 30m 18 Start at the point where the tree meets the undercut face. From this point ascend diagonally right to a crack which starts about halfway up the face and has a small tree growing in its’ base (crux). Follow this crack to the red overhang at the bottom of the coffin shaped buttress. Climb directly up the face of the buttress breaking through both overhangs on excellent "TM" style grips, at grade 15.

Takes the second obvious crack system / open book upstream of the descent gully mentioned in 'When All Else Fails, Dyno'.

1. 20m 8 Climb the easy crack / book up to the large ledge below the striking roof with a crack along its full width.

2. 10m 18 Climb the awkward bulge just upstream of the striking roof. This is difficult, exposed and poorly protected. Pull up the easier rock above to the comfortable stance on top.

Notes:

1. Protection on the crux is marginal.

2. All in all, bold climbing

3. Descend via the steep gully immediately downstream.

Start 5m left of the pillar in a right leaning break. 2 bolts protect the face in mid section of the climb. Abseil off the tree and use trad gear to protect the first few meters.

Climb the recess to right of the slab.

Takes a line up the cliffs opposite and slightly downstream from the Detroit Wall area.

Scramble up to grassy ledge below 'Short Circuit'. Climb follows left-leaning corner 10m to right of 'Short Circuit'.

1. [18] 35m

   Climb left-leaning open book to blocky ledges (15m). Move right onto wall with handrail. Traverse across wall moving up towards end (10m). Climb steep recess (just to left of easy chimney) to belay ledge.

2. [17] 30m

   Follow open book above (mostly climbing on left face) to ledge above. Carry on up open book as it steepens, squeezing past creeper at top.

Note:

The corner of pitch 1 was first climbed in Dec 1985 by A.J. Smith, B. O’Meara and K.M. Smith as 'Megawhat'.

Situated 5 metres upstream of 'Can-Can'. Scramble 5m up to ledge.

1. [17] 30m

   Climb crack up to overhang, move right on to small slabs and up to belay ledge.

2. [4] 15m

   Scramble up to right to below a red corner on right hand side of buttress above.

3. [18] 35m

   ???3. 35m 18 Climb corner and face above to top.

Start as for 'Can-Can'. Scramble up to ledge (5m).

1. [18] 35m

   Climb the first 8m of the corner as for 'Can-Can' and instead of traversing left, move through the left hand side of the overhang and back right to the crack which is followed to the belay ledge.

2. [16] 35m

   Climb up the open-book which runs to the top of the cliff for approximately 10m. Move right under a flake and up into another narrow open-book, which is followed to top.

The climb is about 15m upstream from 'Dark Gully' . A square grey buttress extends from halfway up the krantz. Above this the face is steep and reddish.

1. [10] 22m

   Scramble up to the left side of the grey buttress, traverse left around corner, continue up line of narrow crack to tree, move left and up, and finally bear right to top of buttress.

2. [6] 12m

   Ascend grey rock above base of red recess.

3. [17] 22m

   Up recess to overhang, then move right and up via three narrow off-balance steps. A little higher than the last step move left and up to top via crack. This pitch is steep and sustained.

Variation:

1. 20m 18 Move up recess to overhang. Traverse left thinly to clear roof. Mantle onto hold at base of small open book above. Ascend this to under roof. Step right onto easier ground. Move up open book above to gain large stance. (May 1987 S. Kelsey and Tim P. Willmot)

Scramble up 'Dark Gully' until able to traverse right onto a ledge with large squat grey pinnacle on it. Belay here.

1. 18, 35m Scramble/climb up the easy corner above the pinnacle until able to step right onto the large ledge beneath the imposing steep red face. Climb up on the right then step back left to the base of the main face. Climb this directly to an obvious traverse line that leads to a small ledge on the left arête. Climb the arête to the top.

Descent: Rap from a tree down 'Dark Gully'

At the junction of Boulder Kloof and Lower Tonquani is the "lunch rock", 14m downstream of this rock is an obvious diagonal crack splitting the steep wall.

1. [18] 15m Climb the crack to a tree.

The start is situated about 8m upstream from where Cedarberg Kloof joins Lower Tonquani.

1. [13] 15m

   Move diagonally up left over broken face to good ledge with tree. (This involves an awkward mantle shelf move.)

2. [18] 12m

   From left hand end of ledge move 4,5m up recess to square ceiling. Using fist-jam/layback technique climb up 90o open book to wide ledge. (A great pitch)

3. [11] 30m

   Scramble up 4,5m then move left around corner. Up 6m of broken portion of steep face to larger ledge. Walk left 4,5m along ledge and climb diagonally right up ramp to top.

This climb starts at stream level, about 10m downstream of 'Breakfast in Bed' .

1. [11] 20m

   Scramble up nondescript rock to large flat ledge with steep overhanging face ( 'Ivory Madonna' ) on left.

2. [18] 15m

   Climb chimney/crack to right of steep overhanging face with crack up centre. The crux is near the top.

Note:

Being small may be an advantage, but opening party managed even though they both were taller than 1,92m. i.e. grade is 19 for larger persons and as easy as 16 for smaller persons.

This climb is situated in the huge chimney recess 50m downstream of the Cedarberg / Tonquani junction, starting about 15m to the right of 'Reign Of Fire'.

1. [18] 25m

   Climb the crack system on the left hand wall of the huge recess/chimney (looking inward) i.e. climb the cracks to the overhang, pull through small overhang, traverse left for about 1m then continue up to ledge just above tree.

2. [13] 25m

   Move up recess behind stance for 1 to 2m then move right onto exposed nose of buttress. Continue up for about 5m exiting right to tree belay.

Note:

Very pleasant route on good rock, good exposure on second pitch. For descent abseil off good tree at top of second pitch (one 45m abseil sufficient).

No description!

No description!

Start 3m left of arête at a pillar leading through the roof 5m up.

1. [18] 30m Climb the pillar and follow the left tending break above.

On small crag close to the upper campsite. Route follows right facing dihedral capped by overhang, about 20m from the campsite on the true right hand side of the river. Walk around corner to base of route.

1. [18] 20m Gain dihedral (and crack just to the right of it) by a tricky move, and continue to overhang. Through overhang on left to ledge, and up easy hand crack above.

Opposite the Golden Pitcher there is a large cave situated 15m above the stream. Start on the left side of the cave directly below its top.

1. 20m 17 Climb up 3m until opposite a block-like projection. Move left onto the block and continue up via difficult moves until it is possible to hand-traverse on rounded holds to a ledge. Climb up the face until level with the top of the cave, traverse right and move up to the gully.

2. 15m 18 On the face to the left of the gully there is an obvious steep crack slanting right. Climb up the gully until a traverse left to the base of the crack can be made. Climb the crack until just above the bulge, then traverse 2m left to a block on the face. Continue up 3m to a ledge on the arete.

3. 30m 13 Climb diagonally right for 6m to the crack of pitch 2, then continue straight up for 25m.

The route takes the open book which forms the back of the deep recess opposite RED FALCON CRAG. The objective is the clean slab high above the book.

1. 35m 15,R1 Climb up under the roof capping the cave at the back of the gully. A lot of broken loose rock. Use the tree root to avoid the loose stuff and break out right under the roof to gain the book above. Ascend the book to the grassy stone with large detached blocks at the base of the ramp.

2. 35m 18 Start under the prominent crack system bisecting the slab. Move diagonally up left to a good handrail (and some gear). Rail right to gain the base of the crack system. Climb up the crack until it peters out, thrutching through a small tree in the process. Rail right to gain a small open book, the right wall of which faces upstream. Gain the book, with some difficulty and climb up to the sloping stance at the top with a small tree and chicken head.

Note:

The R1 means "liberal use of root". The second pitch is good slab climbing. The rails are foot holdless.

The climb is situated just downstream of FROG GULLY and can be seen from the swimming pool. It starts up the grey buttress to the right of the gully and makes for a vertical, upstream facing, right-angled red open book.

1. 25m 7 Climb the buttress, bearing in towards the base of the right-angled open book recess.

2. 14m 18 Climb left hand face of open book recess for 6m. About halfway up, move right 30cm or so into corner. Ascend in crack 3m. Move out right and up 3m to cubby hole. Move right and up to stance 1,5m.

3. 12m 7 Climb to right of tree to top.

Variation: (four stars)

To the left of pitch 3, the main buttress continues for a further 12m.

3a. 12m 17 Step back left over the main corner pitch, gain the groove above and follow the continuation crack for a further 6m. Move left for 2m and continue to the top. (Apr 1990 R. Dodding and P. Fatti)

About 25m below the main swimming pool, a large roof can be seen high up with an obvious jam crack cutting through it. Scramble to the base of the face below this roof.

1. 30m 18 Follow the faint crack in the centre of the face (fixed piton protecting crux), moving left higher up to gain the ledge above. Climb the short face (old piton), using arete on left to ledge, and continue steeply to good tree.

2. 15m 17 Swing right (yalpesroH) to beneath the roof and its crack, and thus gain the belay ledge above.

Note:

On pitch 1, it is possible to continue straight up the crack instead of moving left at grade 22.

3m to the right of HORSEPLAY.

1. 25m 18 Climb the open book and continue up to a stance common with HORSEPLAY.

This route starts from the same shelf as TIGATRIX and ARRABELLA-MELLA. Scramble up on to the shelf from just downstream of FROG GULLY. Walk downstream along the shelf. 10m right of ARRABELLA-MELLA is an upstream facing corner, at the point where the shelf finishes. 1m left of the corner is a crack which runs up to a small roof at 6m. Start at the base of this crack.

1. 20m 18 Climb the crack and gain the shelf below the small roof with difficulty. Move 1m left and hence gain the continuation crack in the small corner. Follow this to easier ground above and hence a stout tree. Rap off this, back to the shelf.

"Beware ... the Under Toad."

Start in very slight recess 6m upstream of start of CEDARBERG CORNER.

1. 9m 7 Move diagonally right up slight recess 5m then diagonally up left to ledge 3m below the left hand end of 6m x 1,5m long rectangular overhang. Tree belay. (This pitch is common with the first pitch of BUTTERFLY.)

2. 30m 18 Move across right to slit at right end of overhang. Move up through slit (a piton and tension on the back rope used on opening ascent). Climb diagonally up to right to small tree sling point and exit through overhanging recess above.

Note:

The first free ascent was in Mar 1986 by S. Middlemiss and M. Cartwright.

Starts directly under roof mentioned in LONDON TOWN, 10m upstream and on the opposite side of the kloof to CEDARBERG RECESS. Scramble up to a small U shaped corner and then up to the left to the ledge at the end of pitch 1 of LONDON TOWN. This ledge is 3m below and 4m to the left of the slit in the overhang. The first pitch is part of LONDON TOWN's second pitch free and the second goes up the buttress above (to the left of LONDON TOWN and GOLDEN BALLS).

1. 15m 18 Move diagonally up right until under slit at right of overhang (old aid pegs in place) and pull through using distant holds. Follow groove above to stance on very sloping ledge just above a tree.

2. 20m 17 Move left from stance (approx 3m) and up onto a sloping ledge with a tree. Follow the recess above, taking the left fork at 15m to a belay with tree. From here one can abseil, or scramble to top.

This climb is situated about 100m upstream of the upper descent gully into Boulder Kloof. It is characterized by a smooth sloping slab with an overhang halfway up the slab and a crack running up the top section.

1. 23m 18 Climb directly up the thin face on the left of the corner, towards the overhang. Break through the overhang to below a crack. Ascend the crack above the overhang to the top of the crag.

Note: Thin climbing with adequate protection using small wires.

Just upstream of the SLIPSTREAM buttress is an abseil descent gully. 9m upstream of this, the cliff turns back towards the stream bed. The route ascends the open book so formed and has as objective, the clean, crisp, open book visible high up.

1. 23m 14 Climb the groove pulling over the large chockstone. Amble up the gully and pull over the second block to a large comfortable ledge at the base of the clean steep open book with finger crack in corner.

2. 16m 18 Take off with difficulty and layback, stem, jam up the crack and through the bulge above. Exit right at top of book.

Notes: Steep in places. Protection is good. The second pitch, although short, is excellent clean climbing.

Start at the base of the overhanging red buttress about 15m upstream of the meetspot. If approaching from the top end of the kloof, this is the first climbable rock to reach the streambed on the true right hand side. The route follows the corner just to the right of a thin arete.

1. 35m 18 Ascend in corner on right hand side of prominent rib for 5m until forced out right by overhang (2m 18). Stand on narrow rail on right and bridge up until able to swing right into resting place (5m 17). Climb up to layback crack and either layback (3m) to ledge or layback until able to move right and then up to ledge. From ledge swing left and then mantleshelf. Follow crack on good holds to summit.

Note: Has a variety of technical moves on good rock and is well protected.

Variation:

Starting off the block 3 meters right of the original, corner start to SLIPSTREAM, below the blunt arete.

1. 8m 18 Using the lay-away crack to the right of the arete, get established on the arete. Then proceed on the left-hand side of the arete, to join the original line on the blocky ledge. Good gear in rails. Fun.

Start under the big roof immediately to the right of TRIO.

1. 20m 18 Climb up the crack in the corner to the base of the roof. Move out under the roof to the right and pull through the roof on good holds onto the headwall. Climb up to the big ledge shared with TRIO. Finish as for TRIO.

After walking up Boulder Kloof for about 100m, the foot of the rock cuts back on the left. Set back above the lower cliffs is a prominent red pinnacle/buttress, with an appealing crack in its centre.

1. ?m 13 Scramble up clean grade 8 gully on the right, to the base of the red buttress, or find the motivation to climb through steep rock on the left (13).

2. 20m 18 Climb the crack (moving left if necessary halfway up) to the summit.

This climb ascends the short steep buttress on the right as one descends the scree ramp in Boulder Kloof just below BARDOT.

1. 10m 18 Climb directly up the face and pull through the overhang.

2. 20m 16 Climb up the easy face above to a ledge below a steeper face. Climb this face to a ledge with tree on the right.

Note: It is easy to scramble off to the right after the first pitch.

The route starts 5m upstream of POSEIDON, at the base of a rightward slanting ramp, and follows this line to a large ledge and broken ground.

1. 30m 18 Climb the rightward slanting ramp to its end, then bearing slightly right continue up to the ledge, and belay point.

Note: The ground above the first pitch is broken and did not appear to offer good climbing. The opening party traversed off to the right. Alternatively, there are plenty of abseil points.

Start as for ADVANCED WALKING.

1. 35m 18 Climb up diagonally right over unprotected slab to the groove between ADVANCED WALKING and DOGMATIC. Climb groove and juggy wall above.

Upstream and around the corner from CENTIPEDE lies a short recess leading to a ledge with it V-groove above,

1. 8m 17 Climb the recess to the ledge.

2. 12m 18 Climb up the V-groove past a poor piton and continue up past a sapling to it small ledge on the right, then reach up and mantleshelf on to a large ledge.

3. 25m 17 Climb the obvious crack with loose flakes in it, using bridging movements when it becomes overhung. Step up right and continue straight up on broken ground until below a little chimney with a steep wall on the left. Climb up the wall to reach the top of the cliff.

Climbs the steep face just to the right of CENTIPEDE.

1. 36m 18 Start as for CENTIPEDE and climb up to the small ledge. Instead of moving left climb the crack on the right. At the top of the crack move right onto the slab. Climb up the middle of the slab to a good ledge.

2. 15m 12 Climb the face above the ledge to the top of the crag.

Note: Very enjoyable exposed climbing on the 1st pitch.

Start 2m to the left of SAREL.

1. 20m 16 Climb the recess up to a good ledge.

2. 20m 18 Move up and right from the ledge to a chimney. Ascend the chimney until forced out on the right to a small ledge. Climb up for 2m and then move left, back into the chimney. Climb the chimney to the top of the crag.

Note: The opening party found that the chimney was too narrow to climb at a certain point and were forced out of it. However, a smaller climber may be able to climb the entire chimney. If this variation is chosen then the grading given is not applicable as the crux move was stepping out of the chimney.

Starts 2 to 3m left of SLANG.

1. 10m 12 Climb the face moving right onto a ledge with a small tree. Continue up to the good ledge shared with SLANG.

2. 15m 18 Climb the open book at the back of the ledge, moving left at the top to a good ledge. Climb the short recess in the back of the ledge to the top of the crag.

Immediately downstream of and around the corner from TOP GUN is a short corner. There is a prominent crack beginning 5m above the ground, higher up is an off-width crack with a slab on its right.

1. 15m 18 Climb the corner to gain the crack. Climb the crack to a ledge. Step right under the small roof to get to the off-width. Climb the slab on the right to a ledge.

This climb is situated on the downstream face of the LITTLE MOLAR. (See LITTLE MOLAR description).

1. 30m 18 Climb up the middle of the face avoiding the recess on the left. Use a running belay on the tree to the left, as protection is minimal. On reaching a comfortable ledge traverse right and move up underneath the overhang. Traverse further right and then, after moving up, make a very committing gymnastic move left to a small ledge on the face above the overhang (crux). Move up an exposed face to an airy stance just below the final summit block.

Note: Use the peg (Lost Arrow) for the crux move. The first slab can be avoided by traversing in to the comfortable ledge from the gully on the left. The climb can be divided into two pitches, by using the comfortable ledge after the initial slab as a stance.

Descend as for OPUS ONE.

This climb ascends the red faces upstream of the pinnacle routes just before the upper junction of the kloofs. Scramble up the initial rock to the base of the red faces. Move to the right of the faces and to the base of a chimney.

1. 25m 18 Move up the chimney/recess to the base of an overhang. Traverse left at the base of the overhang 2m and continue up to a hollow sounding block. Move to the top of the block then traverse right again for 3m to a 2 man stance.

2. 11m 11 From the stance move up and leftwards to a pleasant face, move diagonally leftwards to the top.

The route takes the groove in the centre of the upstream face of CENTENARY PINNACLE approximately midway between that route and TWILIGHT CAPERS.

1. 20m 18 Ascend the groove to the large ledge below the bulge by lunging from step to step.

2. 18m 17 Surmount the bulge at the left extremity of the ledge and follow the arête and subsequent chimney to the top.

The route takes the crack line about 5m upstream of BEAM ME UP SCOTTY on the ENTERPRISE buttress, moves right around the scoop, rails left under the roof above, and via an off width crack reaches the belay stance.

1. 15m 18 Climb the crack up in to the scoop until forced right to a resting ledge. Move up the wall above and left to regain the line. Just short of the roof, move left and up to reach the hidden rail under the roof. Rail left to gain the base of the off width crack above. Move up this, with difficulty, to belay on the comfortable stance at the top of the buttress.

Note: Superb climbing on clean, sharp, crisp rock. The position below the roof is excellent. On the opening ascent the leader took a rest below the roof because of extreme fright caused by inability to get friend seated in hidden rail below roof. A wire (Rock) works better.

The route takes the parallel cracks up the centre of the red buttress just upstream of the grey wall to the right of HUMBLE TRUNDLE. Scramble up the pipe ramp moving right to gain the base of the red buttress above.

1. 15m 18 Climb the red wall to gain the cracks above. Ascend these to the base of the bottomless book. Gain the book with difficulty and ascend same to the top and a comfortable stance.

Note: Excellent climbing on clean rock.

About halfway down the pipeline ramp is a steep crack to the right of a long, arched overhang.

1. 25m 18 Ascend the crack, with a steep section at mid-height, until 2m below a roof. Step left on to the slab and follow the groove above to the top.

Take care with the loose blocks in the first 4m.

Situated on the steep red buttress in line with the second weir, the route takes the obvious downstream-facing crack formed by the giant flake and the buttress wall. Start in a line about 2m to the left of the right-hand side of the flake.

1. 20m 18 Ascend a steep crack system to a loose-sounding "spike". Traverse awkwardly right for 2m and then up to gain the base of the flake crack. Jam strenuously for 4m to the spacious ledge on top of the flake. (Admire the view.)

2. 12m 14 From the right-hand end of the flake, step up right, into the off-width crack. Follow this to a horizontal break (4m) and continue directly up the recess above on very rough rock.

Note: Protection is sparse on the lower portion. Exciting stuff!

The route follows the line of the prominent chimney on the upstream side of the buttress immediately upstream of IT ONLY LAUGHS WHEN I HURT. The chimney is capped by a large detached block.

1. 25m 18 Climb through the bulge into the chimney, then move up to the resting ledge below the off-width crack. Climb the off-width to the large block, moving left into the space between the block and the main krantz. Move up and right onto the arête, follow the arête to the top.

Note: The face above the block can also be climbed (18).

Start at same point as CRACK-A-NO-GO.

1. 15m 18 Climb up onto the first block mentioned in CRACK-A-NO-GO. Move right and straight up the open book above.

The route takes the crack line approximately 2m left of AND THE LOUNGE LIZARDS, i.e. the left most crack line on the pink wall of the small buttress opposite the second pipe of the pipe ramp. Scramble up gully to ledge at base of route (cairn).

1. 20m 18 Move up crack to start. Move slightly right along rail and up to gain off width crack above. Move up this to gain the open book above (left of AND THE LOUNGE LIZARDS open book). Follow the book to the overhanging finger crack in the wall above. Ascend this to the comfortable belay stance at the top of the buttress.

Note: Excellent climbing. Descend via the loose gully on the upstream side of the buttress. Careful.

The route takes the fault line starting at the top of the deep cave approximately 10m upstream of ANOTHER ONE BITES THE DUST. Start in the centre of the grey buttress - cairn.

1. 35m 18 Climb the thin grey face towards the obvious roof above. Move right to reach the large ledge fronting the deep cave. Ascend the steep fault line just downstream of the cave mouth until able to stand on the tiny resting ledge to the right. The angle eases slightly until the bulge above at which stage it becomes steep indeed. Struggle up this carefully until the grade eases and climb to the stance above. Scramble down the pipe ramp.

Note: The opening party gardened extensively but, with traffic, this should improve to give a quality line.

Takes the 90o upstream-facing open book 10m to the left of the BIG HIGH CAVE. From below the cave scramble up left to the base of the corner (tree). To the left of the corner is a smooth steep pinky wall and to the right the crags are grey. [E – 10]

1. 15m 18 Follow the steep corner to a ledge with two loose blocks. Leave the corner and move diagonally left to attain a large foothold on the subsidiary left arête. Hand-traverse 2m (exposed) to the left and mantleshelf onto the ledge above. Climb the short corner to a tree belay below an obvious corner.

2. 12m 13 Ascend the right wall of the corner, trending rightwards on to the arête. Follow this to the top. (Beware of compacted dangerous loose blocks at summit.)

Note: The first pitch is superb and very exposed.

The route ascends the centre of the grey, blank looking face immediately downstream of GRACE UNDER PRESSURE. [D – 10] A magnificent route in the "direttissimo" tradition. Fine exposure on the face.

1. 10m 18 Start 4m downstream of GRACE UNDER PRESSURE from the large ledge which is reached after little more than a scramble from the stream bed. Ascend the centre of the grey face to the small 150mm wide ledge. Place protection on the right. Traverse left along the ledge and gain the recess around the corner with difficulty and place protection. Traverse back along the ledge to the centre of the face and continue straight up past the crux to the level of the detached block on the right. Traverse right to the detached block on the ledge, making use of the short rising ramp for a hand-traverse. Take a belay on the block.

2. 21m 15 Ascend the face immediately to the left of the shallow open book (bridge up the book if desired) bypassing the roof in the process. Ascend the face to the large ledge with tree. Gain the left-curving off-width crack above the ledge at its right-hand extremity (difficult) and ascend this to the top.

Note: With a good selection of small wires, protection is reasonable.

Variation:

1. 20m 19 Climb up as far as AMAZING GRACE first pitch, where it traverses right. Climb straight up through a small roof to a large ledge with the tree. Either continue on up or abseil off here. (17 Apr 1987 S. Middlemiss, C. Curson, P. Lazarus and K. Smith)

Starts directly opposite BITCH TO THE BOYS (which has a large bullet-shaped rock feature halfway up the crag). Start in a 5m wide square recess in grey rock with slightly overhanging brown rock above. The start is near the water level. [F + 20]

1. 23m 18 Climb the left-hand corner to below the overhanging brown arête. Directly above in the overhanging headwall are two cracks about 1 m apart. The left is off-width and the right is finger-jam width. Ascend the left crack (18) to the top of the small buttress by means of a strenuous layback or, alternatively, ascend the right crack (19) to the top of the small buttress where a belay can be taken.

2. 20m 13 Ascend the narrow grey face behind to the top.

Notes: The first pitch is excellent climbing with good protection. The second pitch is somewhat contrived.

This climb takes a line up the centre of the buttress between CITY LATE and SPECIAL EDITION.

1. 30m 18 Start on the face to the left and below the start of SPECIAL EDITION and OUMA'S KOOL KAT KOEKSUSTER. Climb up the steep face moving left at grass tuft. Continue up the face just to the left of the arête (crux). Continue up the face on easier ground tending leftwards to the middle of the face. Climb the crack up the middle of the face to a broad ledge.

2. 10m 8 Move rightward and climb short face. Scramble to top.

Note: The face at top of first pitch is excellent.

Route follows the short overhanging corner situated 20m downstream of the prominent buttress taken by BAKED BEEN. Start by scrambling up 14m from the stream to a flat ledge under the corner crack. [B – 10]

1. 12m 18 Surmount the lower bulge on good jams and follow the crack up to beneath a small lip. Move up through the overhanging bulge to finish in a square recess. Scramble to the top or abseil from the second tree behind the recess.

Start at the same point as FROM A WHISPER TO A SCREAM. In the left wall of the open book is a thin crack starting 3m up.

1. 12m 18 Gain the crack, pass the left side of the small overhang to gain a small open book in the arête. Follow this and the crack above, to a small tree. Step right to a belay.

Note: Pleasant, steep climbing. Rap off the large tree.

Starts on the same ledge as GOOFPROOF ROOF, 15m to the right (small cairn).

1. 35m 18 Climb up onto block and move up steep wall on the left. Move right under overhangs, up onto a ledge. Awkward moves onto face above, and follow vague crack/ groove system on good holds to top.

This climb starts about 12m upstream of, and on the same side as LEMON starting on the ledge immediately below the first waterfall. The climb is 2m right of a leftward slanting open book, and follows a crack line, passing to the left of the top of the waterfall (tree and aloe at top of waterfall).

1. 20m 18 Climb the crack, and bulge, using hand jams and friction moves. Once above the bulge move right, and then continue up past the top of the waterfall to a tree belay.

Note: Protection is good.

This climb starts 1m left of IN DIRE NEED.

1. 15m 18 Climb the recess. When you reach the overhang rail left for 5m onto a nose. Climb easy ground to a good ledge.

This climb starts on the true left hand side of the kloof directly opposite the normal meet site. Scramble up onto a higher grass ledge. A crack line passing through two overhangs marks the first pitch.

1. 20m 18 Climb directly up to the first overhang, which is passed on the left. Continue up to the second overhang, pull through this (crux) and climb up to a good ledge.

2. 15m 13 Move up and then left past a bush. Climb rightward up to a crack. Follow this crack to a good ledge. Scramble to the top of the crag.

Start as for BROBDIGNAGIAN i.e. upstream side of LILLIPUT RIDGE buttress. Scramble 20m up to ledge with tree belays.

1. 25m 17 Hand traverse 3m right to ledge. Climb corner above until stopped by wall with crack in it. (First pitch of BROBDIGNAGIAN.)

2. 12m 18 Pullup left onto blocks on arete (as for BROBDIGNAGIAN). Instead of climbing face on right, traverse left under overhang (exposed) to small corner just to right of gully and move up 2m to small stance.

3. 20m 17 Climb corner above to large ledge with blocks (10m). Climb steep nose above making use of flakes to finish just to left of creeper.

The climb starts on the upstream corner of SLAB GULLY (cairn).

1. 35m 18 Climb up the crack beside block to tree. Move into corner and ascend recess above to apex (where rock closes in). Move through to ledge and up off width crack to roof. Move left 1m and up V groove to top.

Note:

A chock approximately 3cm bigger than a #4 friend would be useful for protecting the off width crack.

Variation:

From ledge above apex of recess climb left hand open book to top (15).

This route starts and continues 1 to 2m upstream of CLEFT BUTTRESS, the crux being the overhanging section at 7m.

1. 25m 18 Climb straight up to the point where the crack cuts the overhang. Jam through, pass the trees on the left, and climb the continuation crack to a large ledge. From here one can scramble off, or climb the chimneys or buttresses above.

1. The Slab Pitch: 30m 15 Climb the slab to the left of the first pitch more or less straight up to the big ledge.

2. Monkey Wee, Monkey Poo: 25m 18 From the top of pitch 1 traverse left for 5m to a chimney/crack. Ascend this with awkward moves.

Starts 3m left of STRAIGHT EDGE CORNER.

1. 20m 18 Climb the wall directly, following the obvious weakness to a steep band near the top. Traverse slightly right and up to small roof. Move left around this and up to good belay.

To the left of the first pitch of INVALID is a relatively smooth slab, capped by a roof. The route climbs this slab. Start 5m left (downstream) of the corner ascended by FALSE INVALID, that is halfway between a small, downstream-facing corner and the large tree.

1. 15m 18 Climb to the rail under the overlap. Gain the slab above at the point where the overlap is the smallest. Climb the slab, trending leftwards to a long narrow ledge at 10m. Delicately step onto the top of the block/flake (seems solid), and hand traverse right along the obvious rail to an alcove belay stance and tree (this is on INVALID). Rap from the tree.

Notes:

1. A Mhlabatini rarity - a slab. Similar in style to QUICK SILVER. Great climbing. Small gear required.

The climb starts in MHLABATINI CHIMNEY at the shallow cave in the upstream face (second stance for that climb) and ascends the upstream face of the chimney for the first pitch, and the downstream face for the second pitch.

1. 25m 18 Climb up right to gain the block (3m), step left, and ascend the wall, passing to the right of the flake. Exit right to a large ledge and then climb up to the top belay stance for MHLABATINI CHIMNEY.

2. 15m 18 On the downstream face gain the vertical crack directly (delicate), jam up the crack to the top.

Notes:

1. Aid was used on the second pitch for the first ascent.

2. Tough for the grade.

The climb starts about 12m downstream from MHLABATINI CHIMNEY.

1. 18m 7 Climb 12m up open book before traversing 9m upstream into recess. Scramble up recess to belay point in crack below platform on right. This platform is on the downstream side of the left hand buttress of MHLABATINI CHIMNEY.

2. 20m 18 Climb 3m up crack to platform. (You could skip this by walking up the recess to the large tree and then traversing right on the mega ledge) Traverse 5m right along large ledge and move up to the next ledge. Climb 5m to ledge on left at foot of the next open book (strenuous). Climb this for 5m and step right onto a comfortable ledge. The open book and ledge are shared with BULLIT.

3. 12m 15 Climb up about 3m in open book then move right onto prominent nose. Traverse right on exposed rock to small ledge.

4. 30m 15 Climb up the corner above on an undercut layback. Then traverse left onto the outside of the very exposed buttress on good jugs and straight to the top.

Note

1. The original ascent made a traverse right from the top of pitch 3 to the top of MHLABATINI CHIMNEY. Pitch 4 as described is fun and really exposed and was first climbed by P. Dawson and P. Nortons

The route is about 75m downstream of the wade pool at the bottom of Mhlabatini. It starts immediately upstream of a short steep grey wall (30m downstream of FIRE AND ICE).

1. 20m 13 Start up a messy recess and pull past a steeper section to gain a stance.

2. 25m 10 Scramble diagonally right to reach a ledge below an impressive orange and white face on a downstream facing buttress.

3. 20m 18 Climb a thin crack in the face left of the buttress.

Start as for JELLY BEANS.

1. 23m 18 Climb up slightly sloping face for about 8m (13) to apex of triangle and fixed piton. Jam up crack in open book for about 3m until feet are at level of good thin crack on right face (17). Instead of stepping across to top ledge on left (as for JELLY BEANS), continue straight up open book on good jam holds to the small obvious roof (17). Pull through roof to stance (18).

Between NAUGHTY MONKEY and NOTHING VENTURED NOTHING GAINED is an embayment with large ledge (which is scrambled up to).

1. 20m 18 Climb obvious jam crack at right hand end of bay to ledge with tree. Step left and climb the cracked slabby face (crux).