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Las Encantadas Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Yannick Froese Luen Warneke Tobias Auth Taio alonsoATCO Tiburonny Terenc Jonas O gumpi

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Las Encantadas 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 36.908494, -4.753999

summary

Sunny road-side crag with long quality routes.

description

Popular crag, two minutes from the road. South facing cliff with sun all day. The Upper section is usually well sheltered from wind.

Wide range of grades available.

  • Left - Easier, shorter routes
  • Center - Harder, longer routes
  • Upper - Medium, longer routes

access issues

Located on private land. Good behaviour is essential.

Park with care as the road is narrow.

approach

1.5 km uphill the road from El Chorro train station.

Car parking at (36.907829, -4.755070)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Left

The easier section of the cliff. People often warm up on the routes here before heading over to Central or Upper to get on harder stuff.

2 Bolondro

12m to the 3rd bolt. Can lower off the mallion (quicklink) on the third bolt. Bolts are carrots. Probably only worth doing this route if you've done everything else here. A strong opening move then up on slab passing 3 carrots to a build a natural anchor at top out.

6a+ Mixed trad 18m, 3
3 Nombre Propio

High first bolt. Tree in your way while climbing. Do something else to warm up if you can.

6a Sport 10m
4 Playmobil

Worthwhile climb, unfortunately short.

6a+ Sport 14m, 5
5 Bohem destrell 6a+ Sport 10m
6 Poum, poum, ram, ram 6a Sport 10m
7 Tipo Poloki 6a+ Sport
8 Variante 6b Sport 18m, 7
9 Para que disfrute la canalla 6b Sport
10 Crisis de identidad 6a+ Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Soldaito marinero 6c Sport
12 Guerrera 6a+ Sport 30m, 12
13 Right of the rib 6a Sport 30m
14 La de Seba 6b Sport 30m, 11
15 No Sport
16 Atenea 4c Sport 13m
17 Geisha 6a Sport 20m, 7
18 La encantada 6c+ Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 Program Genocida 6b+ Sport 17m
20 Trio de Chapas

Formerly graded 6b. Mistake or sandbag.

6c+ Sport 22m

Centre

22 Mañon Tropo

7a+ for those with reach. Add a grade and hard dyno for shorties

7a+ Sport
23 Por el interes te quiero andres 7b Sport
24 Las mulas comen muchas cuerdas 8a+ Sport
25 Un lait fraiche pour monsieur 7b Sport
26 Generación limite 7b+ Sport
27 Gharanata 8b Sport
28 Mama Endika 8a+ Sport
29 La Primera y la ùltima 8a Sport 35m
30 Last minute / Sueño en Vida(?)

Supposedly given 7b+ and known locally as Sueño en Vida.

7a Sport 33m
31 Bueno, bonito y barato 6c+ Sport
32 ??

Following the crackline right of BBB and left of MC to the anchor of BBB

6c Trad
33 Chorro mundo 7a+ Sport
34 La Ley del Cateto 6c+ Sport 24m
35 Mataillos lugareños 6c Sport
36 Artemisa 5+ Sport

Upper

Good, long, sustained routes.

Located on the right upper end of Las Encantadas.

38 Rib, Wall and Slab 6a Sport 30m, 8
39 Luna paseo

Access pitch

4c Sport 10m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
40 Tipo indio 7b+ Sport
41 No me miras mal 8a Sport
42 No puedo controlarme 6c+ Sport
43 Espalda nombrada 7a+ Sport
44 Un poco vicioso 7a+ Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
45 Mezcla explosiva 8a Sport
46 Kit Grimpe 7c Sport
47 Gros Rouge 7b Sport
48 Redders

Wonderful line up in the centre. Will test your perseverance at the top before you can clip the chains. Has suffered from many ascents and is now competing for most polished route of El Chorro. Still worth doing!

7a Sport 30m
49 Sara 7a+ Sport 30m
50 Bailando con osos 7b Sport
51 Dura vida de un frekee 7a Sport 30m
52 Fiebra de sur 7a Sport 30m
53 Patachula 7a Sport 30m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
4c Atenea Sport 13m
Luna paseo Sport 10m, 4
5+ Artemisa Sport
6a Geisha Sport 20m, 7
Nombre Propio Sport 10m
Poum, poum, ram, ram Sport 10m
Rib, Wall and Slab Sport 30m, 8
Right of the rib Sport 30m
6a+ Bohem destrell Sport 10m
Bolondro Mixed trad 18m, 3
Crisis de identidad Sport
Guerrera Sport 30m, 12
Playmobil Sport 14m, 5
Tipo Poloki Sport
6b La de Seba Sport 30m, 11
Para que disfrute la canalla Sport
Variante Sport 18m, 7
6b+ Program Genocida Sport 17m
6c ?? Trad
Mataillos lugareños Sport
Soldaito marinero Sport
6c+ Bueno, bonito y barato Sport
La Ley del Cateto Sport 24m
La encantada Sport
No puedo controlarme Sport
Trio de Chapas Sport 22m
7a Dura vida de un frekee Sport 30m
Fiebra de sur Sport 30m
Last minute Sport 33m
Patachula Sport 30m
Redders Sport 30m
7a+ Chorro mundo Sport
Espalda nombrada Sport
Mañon Tropo Sport
Sara Sport 30m
Un poco vicioso Sport
7b Bailando con osos Sport
Gros Rouge Sport
Por el interes te quiero andres Sport
Un lait fraiche pour monsieur Sport
7b+ Generación limite Sport
Tipo indio Sport
7c Kit Grimpe Sport
8a La Primera y la ùltima Sport 35m
Mezcla explosiva Sport
No me miras mal Sport
8a+ Las mulas comen muchas cuerdas Sport
Mama Endika Sport
8b Gharanata Sport
? No Sport
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