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Holderness Buttress Guide

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 127
  • Aka: Holderness Corner

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Patrick Iseli Kapwe David Holmes abraham ferraro Steve Hurton J Hart Bibi Garcia

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Holderness Buttress 8 routes in Sector

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.802325, -71.831702

description

The right side of the Meadows area, it runs directly in to "The Parking Lot Wall" with no clear or obvious break between them.

access issues

Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.

inherited from Rumney

ethic

top roping, projecting and lowering should be done on your own gear

inherited from Rumney
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 White Rhino

FA: Ward Smith, 1997

5.11c Sport 39ft, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Hope For Movement

FA: Duncan McCallum, 1988

5.12d Sport 98ft, 10
3 Flesh For Lulu

FA: Jerry Handren, 1987

5.12a/b Sport 110ft, 11
4 Holderness School Corner

The obvious dihedral with crack in the back. Want gear up to a #4 friend. Lower-offs.

FA: Chris Hassig, 1975

5.8 Trad
5 Holderness Arête

FA: Tom Armstrong, 1988

5.10b Sport 69ft, 7
6 Holderness Finish

Actually 2nd pitch, continuing above anchors for "Holderness Arete" on 2 bolts and gear.

FA: Tom Armstrong, 1989

5.10a 5.10 Mixed trad 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Idiots Deluxe

Beginning is rather easy and uneventful, but last 25' is fun, pumpy, sustained, & slightly overhanging with lots of jugs...watch out for the wasp nest near start of overhanging area to the left on a great hold.

FA: Jim Shimberg, 2002

5.10d Sport 85ft, 10
8 Curly for President

9 Bolts to LO. Start behind a double-trunked oak, and climb the nice face past Rumney-style pockets.

FA: Jim Shimberg, 2003

5.8 Sport 89ft, 9

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.8 Curly for President Sport 89ft, 9
Holderness School Corner Trad
5.10b Holderness Arête Sport 69ft, 7
5.10a Holderness Finish Mixed trad 2
5.10d Idiots Deluxe Sport 85ft, 10
5.11c White Rhino Sport 39ft, 4
5.12a/b Flesh For Lulu Sport 110ft, 11
5.12d Hope For Movement Sport 98ft, 10
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