Routes in Rumney for selected grade

The far left end of the wall.

Scramble up an easy ramp to the first bolt. Move up through to the crux and top out.

Hard start off the ground, then rest is easier.

Actually 2nd pitch, continuing above anchors for "Holderness Arete" on 2 bolts and gear.

Start up the easy slab to the first bolt, then pull over the steep bulge to flatter section, move right, then up the steep dark face to the finish.

Left up a crack, then right; shares anchor with "Scene of the Crime"

Climb straight up through the left side of the large roof.

Climb straight up through the right side of the large roof.

Crap?

To the right of the obvious Centerpiece corner, Masterpiece begins in the steepest section of the wall. Stick clip a hard-to-see first clip (on a left-facing block) with a long draw to avoid backclipping on the way up. Jug haul on steep rock until an unobvious crux between the second and third bolts. Move quickly to pull the ledge above the steep section. From here, face climb a bit before moving around a large, jutting bulge. Climb up into a tight section where an overhang presses you down from above. Traversing left of this and onto a slabby face between two large boulders, stem or jam up between the boulders to gain the anchors.

Watch out for sucker holds on the way up.

Anchors: Quick Clips

A classic 5.10a with fun, varied climbing the whole way. A must-do!

One of the best routes of its grade at Rumney. On Jimmy Right, it's the rightmost route that follows a blunt arret up to some tricky moves along the face. Small holds and small feet make this one a bit of a puzzle. Rounded crack lines require a bit of searching for good purchase. Don't go too far right around the corner, or you'll find yourself up shit creek without a paddle. To get to the anchors, choose between going right to undercling a large flake, or left, using a series of easy cracks to gain the anchors. Fantastic route and quite popular, but absolutely worth it.

Link-up from Keel Hauled to Land Ho

The section with the anchor fell off in 2013. Apparently in a climbable state as of 2021.