Begehungen in Devilled Cream Buttress

Had to come back to give this another shot. Easy access to a ripper of a climb. Second favourite of the trip.

Did some variant of this... scrambled up avoiding half of the first pitch then linked the second half into p2 and up the cracked arete instead of bushy corner as intended - adventurous and not bad climbing.

P1 lead OS - pleasant jamming P2 tricky moves establishing on the slab - couldn't get it clean in the sun.

Just lovely.

Beautiful line with great gear throughout

P1 - slabby crack with beautiful jams leads to an awesome trench belay! P2 - tried to go up the corner at first bolt and came off. Next time will traverse onto face slab lower. Very fun climb.

So awesome. Blew a foot, fell and had to take after a bad handjam hit a nerve but loved the climb regardless. Anchors at 30m

Lead first pitch after an interesting rap in from the anchors above. I think those rap anchors are placed so you rap through the hole to the base rather than through the vegetation! Anthony took the 2nd pitch. Super scary with no gear on the crux.

Stepped to high in the crack after clipping the 1st bolt. Stay lower and ease into the slab and past the bolt.

This will teach you to work on your jamming technique.

Good fun! However, be prepared for running it out with small gear!, on the crux pitch - very funky moves and very exhilarating lead.

Unleash your inner Queenslander to get through the wide stuff! (Or just layback like a normal person)

Another super classic of Buffalo that is severely underclimbed!!! Only because it’s out of the way for most.

Nice first pitch, finished on a grade 18 variant second pitch

Super fun and a nice workout

With Yushu and Sandra

my goodness, it took us nearly as long to set up the rap and get to the base as it did to do the climb. cant pull rope from 60m. its pretty good but some bold exposed slab for an 18.

Seconded the face and led the offwidth bit at the top

some weird climbing with some marginal pro

So the line in the "Sublime Climbs" Topo is wrong. It's the right crack that looks super fun. Not through the trees. Awesome first pitch, second pitch is lame. Glad we taped up

Ran together as 1 pitch. Fun up till the trench, crap afterwards.

Felt pretty comfortable on second. Another amazing buffalo flake!

First pitch is a nice intro to Angels style, although a bit too wide in place. Second pitch is crap really. Chris linked both pitches.

Glad for the #5 cam this time, my endurance being shit I got a bit pumped but managed to push through and keep it together. Great line.

got a bit scared by the run out, turn out to be fine

First pitch is interesting and not too hard to find from the top of Devilled Cream. No rap in required. Second pitch was quite different with very spaced gear. Finished up the top half of the top pitch of Vertical Tai Chi.

Led the second pitch

My offwidth technique failed me. A lot more trutching and flailing than was needed. Very good prep for Angels though.

1 rest on p1, nice climbing. led p2, not a fan

weird. contortions. rub (uk) led it. well done!

my only success for the trip but a good one at that. this climb is possibly the best i've ever done in the gorge. ripper dipper right leading flake with good gear and positive holds. suggest you all pack your bags and get in the car and go and climb this piece of granite right now!

absolutely stupid crappy access description..."at mouth of cave behind devilled cream buttress"...well you can't bloody see this cave 'cause when you go behind the buttress you're actually standing on top of the cave! so after more than an hour and a short rap into the cave we got to the start of the climb. it was bloody insulting to then have to climb the no stars first pitch which comprised a super tight chimney followed by a super filthy trench. i did it on second with a heavy pack just to make sure i got no enjoyment out of it at all. thank the good lord the second pitch was as good as neil said it would be and that i got to lead it! awesome thin technical face climbing on a massive dyke. however there was very average gear at the crux. one final off width corner crack of misery and then we finished up banana blase. i was so thirsty at the end of this but not surprisingly we got to the chalet cafe just as it closed.

good hard climbing