Begehungen in Glasshouse Mountains von Chris Ahlgren haben trad-cpr oder ascent-date

Nice route, all around. The final pitch has one spicy bit, but with that said it's also a pretty damned soft 20. It's a major stretch to call this a trad route, being that I placed 4 pieces of gear on the entire route.

Awesome moderate climb on solid rock. Lots of slab, so bring your buffed calves. Simuled on the sharp end for the first 9 pitches, linking pitches 1-9 into one mega 290m pitch. So fun! Plus, we got to skip all the awkward and uncomfortable belay stances. Managed to do it in 2hr31sec. 32 sec too slow! Reracked at the bottom of the tenth and lead to the top. Could have linked it all but wasn't sure what gear I needed. Used ~25 draws and a few mid sized cams plus skipped a good few bolts on easy ground. Used one draw and 3 cams (BD .75, 1, 2) for pitch 10. Pulled through the outside of the overhanging chimney for the direct finish.

I found this route to be a lot easier and a lot less scary than I had imagined. Lachlan got his bit of trad practice by leading the first 3, though he only placed 1 BD .75 on p1 (which he could have done without), and a few more pieces on p2, one nut and one cam, which only really called for 1 piece but placed the 2nd for practice. p3 is scarier for the 2nd since the last bolt before the belay has a committing step out into space with bad hands. The leader will have just clipped when making this move while the 2nd will have just UNclipped, thus looking at a nasty penji fall if they blow it. Def make sure your 2nd is confident for this pitch. We simlued the rest of the climb with me leading to polish off the route, all of which is easy climbing from there, in good time. Managed the route in about 2.5hrs (I think).

Pretty fun. Perfect nut placements. Linked to "Tower of Power".

Completely beat out my expectations . The climbing was harder and more interesting than I imagined it would be. Only put in a few pieces of gear: 1 piece at the top of the 3rd at the "short crack' and 3 pieces on the 4th. A single rack of cams, BD .3-2 should do the trick. Also 10 draws, with a good few of them on shoulder length slings to extend past edges and reduce drag on some of the more wondering sections. The belay at the top of p3 belay sucks. Watch those loose blocks! Lead all 5 onsight

Meant to climb "tower of power". Ooops. No wonder that felt so hard! Hang at the 2nd FH before I got the nerve to run it out to the first bit of descent gear 4m up.

Wait... I think I climbed Witch Hunt (21) from the top of Bloodsucker's first pitch... oops. No wonder that felt so hard! I'm leaving this tick here to warn prospective climbers to beware and not jump on Witch Hunt accidently. Luckily grade 21 is just doable for me, but if 16 is at or near your limit, this note is for you.