Begehungen in Glasshouse Mountains von David Jefferson haben trad-cpr oder ascent-date

Probably should have just gone for the onsight, but I did a toprope burn first after climbing Kitch, then sent first go. I didn't bring the right size cam for the top, so ran it out to the anchor. For reference, a yellow C3 probably would have fit.

I didn't log any airtime on this route, but it was nevertheless an exciting outing. Onsighted and led all pitches. Typical Tibro: route finding challenges, solid rock mixed with choss, bolts and a lack thereof. If I were to do the climb again, I might stop after pitch 4 and rap, as this makes for a more sustained and continuous line.

Led P1 and followed P2 of SB to access. The crux pitch is definitely well worth doing, as it's mega! Must be the longest single pitch at Tibro. Quality is somewhat marred by the wandery nature of the pitch and some odd bolting choices. For example, the anchor could have been set two bolts down from the awkward stance, at a nice, natural ledge.

Led and onsighted all pitches, other than P3 & P4, when Josh took the sharp end. The crux is one of the best (mostly) trad lines I've climbed on Tibro. Very stylish bridging!

I was surprised how much of this line overlapped with others, and since I had already climbed most of the other routes on this section of wall it felt more like a repeat than an onsight. Still, the crux traverse pitch is very fun, and unique for Tibro.

Interesting movement with generally good gear, although short. Used to access Caritas.

I think that we did the right version...somehow hard to tell.

Ryan led and linked P1 & P2, and I took P3 & P4. It was definitely a bold move to call the crux moves grade 7, but then again I'm not sure what the hardest grade was in 1966. I also don't know if I'd rate the crux as hard as 18, but the moves feel harder than they are because of the lack of pro. I know that I'll probably draw criticism from saying this, but I think the pitons on this route should be replaced, as they are badly corroded (are they from 1966?). I also would advocate for a bolted anchor at the top of P3, as the single piton belay is not very confidence inspiring. But then again, there is something to be said for the historical character of the route. In any event, worth doing...once.

Really nice movement in the stemming corner and pulling over the roof. A few less-than-bomber placements, but enough gear to be safe.

Quality addition to the Glassies’ adventure climbing menu, and highly user friendly with the bolts, straightforward route finding, and solid rock. Led all pitches, linked 2-3, 4-5, and 6-7. About 4 hours on the wall, with lunch midway.

Led all pitches. A fun way to explore a less-trodden section of Tibro, and less heady than anticipated. While there are big runouts, most of the climbing is so easy (like, grade 10-14) that I hardly noticed. The bolts or gear are there when you need them.

An adventure with plenty of spice, but really not as bad as I was expecting. The crux felt easier to me than the crux of Lancelot (originally graded 7 😂). Led all pitches, linked 5 & 6, and topped out for the old skool points. However, I really can’t recommend the last 3 pitches, which are really quite vegetated and somewhat loose. Pitch 3 is all time though!

Generally a fun romp broken up by the typical Tibro ledge or weirdness. Mucked up the first pitch by going too high to an anchor above and left of the ledge and had to abseil back down to the lower anchor and traverse over. Other than that no dramas. Minimal trad rack required and I daresay the entire thing could be done with about 2 cams, if sizes were chosen wisely.

I was pleasantly surprised at this route, and also expecting fewer bolts. Overall, protects very well given the newer FHs and bomber wires in many sections. Plus, I got to teach my partner how to lead belay using a Munter hitch when she dropped her ATC!

Led and onsighted all pitches. Somehow ended up at the wrong anchor at the top of pitch 2, however, and so pitch 3 was...interesting. We may have gotten the first ascent of this variant finish today. I wouldn't exactly recommend it, unless loose death blocks surrounding marginal thin gear is your thing.

Well worth the scramble up the gully. There is a large runout in the middle of the pitch that can probably be protected with wires, though I didn't bring any and it felt fine. I also checked the anchors and the bolts seemed tight to me. The fixed locker was a bit corroded, but that's not really surprising around these parts.

A fairly unique line for SEQ, as it is mostly a face climb with natural gear placements. Definitely worth a lap.

Nice to repeat this route. An enjoyable outing - led all pitches, simuled the last four, and watched the drama of a rescue unfold from the top!

This gets the classic rating only for the third pitch, although I didn’t do the first two (climbed Four Seasons instead). One of the more memorable positions anywhere; stepping out above the void from the cave sets the tone for a brilliant pitch. I agree with others that the fourth pitch is spooky at best, and seems like it might break apart at any moment. Final pitch is worthwhile for the crack finish.

This climb is billed as one of the best and most well protected cracks at Tibro. While there isn't exactly stiff competition in that department, I'm inclined to agree.

Started up Black Orpheus, intending to do that route, and somehow wandered too far to the left but just kept going. I found good rock, suss rock, bomber gear, and big runouts. Standard Tibro adventure fare.

I was certainly off route at points, but I more or less followed the line. A few classically scary Tibro moments in there but overall pretty chill.

From Cave 3 to the top. Lovely to revisit my favourite part of the Caves Route, and to do the variant finish for the first time.

Down climb from Prometheus.

Can't believe I waited this long to do this gem. Did the classic finish via the chimney. Since I was alone and it was my first time on the route, I nearly backed down from doing the move, until some rando started shouting beta at me from the summit! The encouragement proved sufficient to motivate me up and into the chimney, and onward to the summit in under an hour from the car park. Could have been faster if I hadn't gotten off route near the second cave. Made a few irreversible, exposed moves and kept motoring. Descended via the tourist track.

Came to do the Caves Route but there was a rescue underway so I got turned away. The tourist track is surprisingly nice though.