Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | Gebiet | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V5 | ★★★ Epsilon Crack
Start of fin/jug and use crack to gain high edge. Up to finishing jug. | 4m | Flat Rock | ||
V2 | ★ The V2 Sit
| 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V3 | ★★ Paranoiac Critical Town
| 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V0 | ★★ Sydney Highrise
Sit start on the big juggy hole and climb straight up the wall on a series of jugs to a tricky top out. Top out is not too bad if you suss out the top holds before embarking (try not to get caught on the tree when topping out). | 5m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V3 | ★★ Wiggly Boy
Location: The Wiggly Boulder. Sit-start right of 'Shattering Dreams' matching a big undercling. Slap to the small edge, then mantle to finish. Harder than a lot of other 3's in the area. | 2m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V4 | ★★ 4:45
Sit start on the low flake and climb straight up to top out. Several ways to work on your hands. Well featured problem and you'll wish it kept going. | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V4 | ★★★ And Then There Was Red
Classic. Stand start on small crimp edges, move left into corner and make a committing few moves up to large holds to top out. | 4m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V3 | ★★ Lygon St Massacre
Sit start low on a crimp and input edge. Climb the central line up the technical slab to top out over its peak. A classic for the grade! | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V7 | ★★ The Show Must Go On
Start in the back of the cave on the massive jug rail. Make your way to the lip and traverse all the way left using tricky footwork, then head up as for Curtain Call to match on the sharp jug. This line also has a direct variant that heads straight up from the lip to the crimp rail and finishes as for Encore. This line differs to Grand Opening as you can use the left side of the wall. | 5m | Flat Rock | ||
V3 | ★ Curtain Call
Start: Original problem on the lefthand side of the wall, starting with a sit-start. 'The Show Must Go On' is a harder version coming in from the bottom right. | 2m | Flat Rock | ||
V1 | ★ Cat's Meow
Tricky start, eases as you go. From a sit start on the finger jug, climb up the juggy wall. | 6m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V5 | ★★★ Sick Nutter
Sit start on the massive juggy pocket and move up passing a bad RH sloper Erstbegehung: Nick Sutter | 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V0 | ★ Duck's Nuts
Start on the chalked crack just to the right of the V3. Head straight up. | 5m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V3 | ★ Bee's Knees
Sit-start on sloping rail. Trend up and right using slopers and eventually jugs. | 5m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V2 | ★★ Child of Love
Sit start in slot on the arete. | 5m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V4 | ★★ Slappers Arete
The left arete. Stand start on opposing side-pulls past a pinch to top out. | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V4 | ★★ Pinche and the Brain
Stand start from the caved-in part of boulder with your body pushing towards the rock. | 4m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V5 | ★★ Encore
Sit start on the curving crack. Move left using pockets and crimps. Traverse into the higher of the two rails and finish as for "The Show Must Go On" Erstbegehung: Michael Tonon | 6m | Flat Rock | ||
V5 | ★★★ Anonymous Arete
The right arete is a classic that has a sting in the tail. Sit start on the underclings and climb up left past a pocket and into slopey finish. | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V0 | ★ Golden Arete
Sit start and climb the line up the right side of the wall using the arete and good holds on the face. | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V2 | ★★ Bonsai Right
| 2m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V4 | ★ The Animator
| 5m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V1 | ★ Check Your Traps
Sit start on the slot. | 2m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V2 | ★★ Some Days You Bore
Sit start on the jugs on the arete. | 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V3 | ★★★ Faith
Sitstart at the flake, following it up and reach up to the ledge. | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V4 | ★★ Fashion
RH right-trending crack weakness. Starts on the low jugs and climbs up the weakness to a crux move reaching up for a gaston pocket. Was massively overgraded at V5 for a long time. | 4m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V4 | ★★ Arm and a Leg
Sit start on the blocky horizontal at the edge of the roof. Move up on good holds and veer left on good edges on the face and top out 1-2m right of As the Crow Flies. | 4m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V4 | ★★ A horse is a horse
Takes the left-trending weakness of pockets from a sit-start - on the rightside of the big horizontal. Once the big horizontal is gained, keep traversing all the way left to finish at the pocket (the finish of 'Spanking the Monkeybars') | 5m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V6 | ★★★ Evac
Erstbegehung: Simon Weill | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V1 | ★ Ass Backwards
Sit start on input flakes just right of Bad Call. Move up left to slopey features and up on jugs. | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V2 | ★ Running Commentary
Sit start as per the V1, then head up and left to top out. Erstbegehung: Mike Hitchcock, 2015 | 6m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V3 | ★★ Bonsai
| 2m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V5 | ★★★ Out of the Bleau
Sit start on slopey edge. Make a hard move up left to a slopey edge and continue to top out as for White Destiny. Bring a brush!! V4 Stand Start, V5 Sit Start | 4m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V4 | ★ Media Construct
Starting from 'Sick Nutter' traverse left through the slopers to 'Paranoiac Critical Town' then top out. | 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V6 | ★★ This Way Up
Sit start matched on little input edges and a sidepull. Climb straight up to top out. Getting your butt off the ground is no easy feat. | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V1 | ★ Is Don Is Good
Sit stat with a sidepull/undercling and climb straight up the face to top out. | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V0 | ★ Thriving Sincerity
Sit start front of font boulder. Pleasant juggy slab. | 4m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V6 | ★★ Stoplight Arete Left Variant
Start as for Stoplight Arete but bust out left via under clings and up face. Erstbegehung: Jimmy | 5m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V3 | ★★ Diagonal Laneway
Great climbing on a solid line. Sit start on the jug at the bottom of the rising diagonal cleft, which is followed rightward to top out on the far right of the boulder. | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V6 | ★★ Riding Shotgun
An area classic that is more technical than it first looks. Sit start on good holds in the low seam and climb up and leftwards, making the most of a variety of challenging slopers! If you use the line of sidepulls and underclings going out right at the start, then you are on the right-hand variant V4 (but you won't be the first to be mistaken!). Phyllis climbs Riding Shotgun! Erstbegehung: Corrine Gwyther, 2000 | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V7 | ★★ Rise of the Machines
Sit start on a LH pocket and a RH big sloper/slot. Climb straight out via pockets and slopers to top out stood on the slab. | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V0 | ★ Becoming Harmonious
Sit start on lowest bulbous jug and climb up on big chunky features. | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V2 | ★ Lady Luck
Start as for George St but head straight up and top out. | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V5 | ★★ White Destiny
Sit start as for Green Destiny. Make the same big move to start and then traverse right on good holds to top out on slopers. | 4m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V3 | ★ The Cleaver
Sit start low on arrowhead flake and undercling edge. Throw up to ledge and then top out up slab. | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V2 | ★ Pimply Pinches
The groove using eponymous pimply pinches. | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V0 | ★ Mini Rig
| 2m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V2 | ★★ One Sleep
Sit start at back of the cave and climb left around the to finish as for two sleeps | 2m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V1 | ★★ Pony
| 2m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V3 | ★★ Innocence
Sit start at the base of the leaning arete and climb leftwards up the line of slopers and flakes. A classic for the grade! | 5m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V7 | ★★★ Rodeo Girl
| 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V6 | ★★ Plastic Facts
From the start holds of TBC, climb the diagonal rightwards. Erstbegehung: Oliver Miller | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V5 | ★★★ Wimmelfriedhof
A long problem on the lip of the cave, finishing up pockets. Standing start and pull on, then motor horizontally toward 'Ogre Thumb' crux, then up on pockets. Pumpy. Erstbegehung: Klem Loskot, 1990 | 5m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V1 | ★ Problem Banana
1 metre left of Stoplight Arete, sit start in crack and layback up corner. Fun. Erstbegehung: Jimmy | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V5 | ★★ Nice Max
Sit-start from a low 'horizontal and slightly higher (LH) one - then motor up the left-trending vague arete using crimps - until you can lock up and right to a big pocket/jug. Solid at the grade. | 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V4 | ★★ Air traverse
| 3m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V2 | ★ Good as Gold
Start as for Arm and a Leg and climb straight up the juggy seam. | 4m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V3 | ★ Super Deluxe
The straight up problem off the slot and edge. | 4m | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
V1 | ★ Slab 101
Stand start on the left of slab. Follow the flake to the top. | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V1 | ★ Bad Call
Sit start on the right side of the low break and climb up the line of jugs. | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V5 | ★★ Sockdolager
Sit start on low flakey rail, pull up onto large flat rail and make tricky move left to sloper and top out. | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V6 | ★★ As the Crow Flies
Start as for Ass Backwards and move up to slopey features. Dyno from here up right to the worn white jug on the face....like a boss! Top out. (Good holds used for Ass Backwards, up from the slopey feature are out - besides why would you not want to do the dyno?) | 4m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V3 | ★ Damsel
From horizontal, up and right to sharp pocket then up to break. | 3m | Flat Rock | ||
V5 | ★ The V5 Sit
| 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V2 | ★ Easy Lane
The easy arete is climbed from a sit. | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V0 | ★ The Crescent
| 2m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V1 | ★ One Flash and You're Ash
| 7m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V3 | ★★ Sesame Superhighway
A great two mover. Pretty much a 1-3-6 campus move - but with your feet on (if you get the drift). | 2m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V7 | ★★★ The Nevin Rule
Sit-start on the horizontal on the right-side of the cave and head up via a sidepull and pinch to the slopers. Dyno for the flat-top jug to finish. Originally given V6. Uhuru Channel static finish! | 5m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V2 | ★ Helluva Miller
Climb the juggy face right of arete from a sit. | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V4 | ★★ J S Memorial slab
An area classic up the middle of the slab (unfortunately also a bit of an eliminate). Stand start with terrible smears and crimps and move up to the vague slopey rails (the good holds out right are off) and top out. Delicate, technical, and fun. | 2m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V5 | ★★ Passion
The left most line on the main face. Sit start on good slanting holds and climb the right trending diagonal weakness to mantle over the huge lip. | 4m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V7 | ★★★ Copperhead
Start on obvious chalked rail (half a metre right of Ceramics) and work your way up the arête to a committing few moves up high. Erstbegehung: Oliver Miller | 5m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V2 | ★ Reacharound
Sit start on low, horizontal seam. | 5m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V0 | ★ Distress
Start as for 'Damsel' , make a few moves left past pocket to nondescript finish. | 3m | Flat Rock | ||
V3 | ★ Caterpillar
Sit-start on the low flake and small arete hold - then up via a 'triangle' pinch hold to the big break. Originally given V4. | 2m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V7 | ★★ Cardigan St Massacre
| 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V5 | ★★ No Sex After Mushrooms
Sit start in big hueco (as for Happy Camper & Race Eater), then head straight out to letterbox slot and sloper. Dyno to good hold. Topout's not as easy as it seems... Arguably about as hard as 'Silly Putty'. | Mt Stapylton Campground | |||
V2 | ★ Eye Of The Tiger
Good warm up. Sit start on low jugs down and right of the start of TBC. Climb up and right. Erstbegehung: Braeden Hyland | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V5 | ★★ Master Bates
Up using the crack. Sit start for hard variant. | 4m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V6 | ★★ Compaction
Sit start 4m right of Wiggly Boy between the tree and the boulder on the shallow pockets in the vague seam. Move up on edges and mantle. | 3m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V7 | ★★★ Waiting in the Air
An 8-move traverse into a big dyno. Erstbegehung: Klem Loskot, 2000 | 3m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V8 | ★★★ To Hate To Love
The burly twin of "Ministry of Love". Sit start on the off angle slopey rail and head left to the slot and jug.Traverse the overhang right on pockets to a sloper and edges and a tricky top out. | 6m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V8 | ★★★ American Dream
Sit start on the juggy holds under the roof. Move back to a bad undercling and make a hard move to the pocket on the arete. Finish up Golden Oldie. | 5m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V2 | ★ Mary
Up through undercling and along the lip to surprisingly difficult mantle. | 4m | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
V5 | ★★ Epinephrine
Behind Gobsmacker. Sit start at edges. Long move left to flat rail then up through positive holds to top out. | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V2 | ★ Karl
Overgraded? jug haul starting from a sit-start then up the right-trending flakeline - to cut back left via a horizontal slot - then the top. | 3m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V1 | ★ Fair Dinkum
Sit start on the left side of the low juggy break. Make a big move to the slopey pocket and top out up big holds. | 4m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V4 | ★★★ Cock Toe
| 5m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V0 | ★ Something's Burning
Sit start on the low, chalked hold. | 6m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V2 | ★★ Red Bellied Black
Our advice would be not to make this your first V2. The easy line up the middle of the face 2m right of the tree, finishing just left of the crack at top. Erstbegehung: Oliver Miller | 5m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V3 | ★★ Two Sleeps
Classic central problem through the cave. | 6m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V3 | ★★ Ethanol
Sit start under the roof at the obvious juggy ledge. Sit start at the obvious juggy ledge. Move up to flakes in the roof and left to mantle over the ledge. (Make sure the head is protected from the rock behind by a pad or close hand) | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V8 | ★★★ Blackbeard's Delight | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V2 | ★ Dwarf Power
| 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V0 | ★ Get Down On It
Start on a jug under the overhang. Find the 3 finger pocket on the upper side of the slab to make mantling easier. Erstbegehung: Gav Portier/ Gilli Helbig | 2m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V8 | ★★ Conga Fury
The left arete starting with a RH pinch and low LH on the arete. Top out. Compression problem. | 3m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V4 | ★ Some Days You Score
Sit start on the jugs on the arete. | 3m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V2 | ★★ Endamax
Starts on the big chalked slopey hold under the hanging arete (left of Lost For Life). Up via a pocket in the roof, then undercling to a good jug. Has a reputation for being nails hard for the grade. | 3m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V5 | ★★ Pump Action
Start in the big juggy double barrel pockets 2m right of the Seam Grip exit. Make a big throw to jugs and top out. | 4m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) |