Routen in New South Wales and ACT für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Climb into the cave then up around to the right. Then follow the ringbolts to the top. First bolt is quite high so be careful.

This is the right side of the arete and is the best easy route at Dams Cliff with wonderful ironstone jugs. Carrots all the way to the top which requires a rappel or a walk-off...or very long extended top rope rigging.

2 metres right of Mañana. Long, easy, and popular.

One of the best and most traveled easy routes in the mountains - great rock and exposure. Can be done as one big pitch with a couple of slings. Start on blocks at base of grey slab beneath Eyrie belay cave.

1. 30m (12) Slab past cams to ring bolt (possible belay), left to arete, past another FH and up to the unique bolted belay cave. 2 bolts plus single rack of cams (Camalot 0.5-4)

2. 15m (12) Out left hand side of cave via steep, exposed moves to FH. Up left side of arete and back onto main face to find old RB. Top out for carrot belay set back from the edge, or DRB on the boulder further back.

A popular incut slab. It is not recommended that you lead this route if only climbing grade 11, however do not top-rope directly through the anchor bolts. These anchors are getting noticeably worn through, as a result of such improper top-rope setups.

Start lower down, pull onto the wall and towards the right side of the face. Up the eroded front-face arete to the 1st bolt. On the last move to the LO's look for the right-hand under bolder hold.

SSGICs to top-out with 2 bolt belay.

Blocky corner 3m left of TW. More popular as a rap line than a route, and probably rightly so.

On the left side of the arete. Plenty of bolts. Plenty of jugs. Good beginner lead climb.

A nice easy well protected climb for the beginners. The crux is getting established onto the wall just above the overlap at 1/3 height. 6RB's to 2RB anchor.

Get here early for this one.

Start left of Kaboomba Brothers. Bouldery start to pleasant rambling. Lots of bolts. Stick clip the 2nd bolt if you’re at the grade.

Start: Wall to the right of OE.

1. 9m (-) Wall to ledge and triple bolt belay

2. 40m (10) Left up wall, slight recess and nose to tree belay.

Climb the face past 2RB's then traverse right along the ledge past 2RB's to the blunt arête, now up the chimney past RB. Step left across the void and up to anchors. 5RB's to 2RB anchor.

Be careful not to climb too high in the chimney or you'll find yourself above the anchor.

Start: Start in the middle of the small face on the left hand side of the buttress.

An easy, well-protected popular classic. Climbed on a searing summer's day, it was the first climb done on 'The Northern Slabs', taking the line of least resistance. Start at a slanting crack eight metres left of 'Equilibrium'.

1. 40m - Rightwards up the crack, then follow the groove leftwards to a sloping ledge. Belay at some wedged blocks.

2. 20m - Doddle leftwards up the groove to a belay in the corner.

3. 25m - Bridge and layback up the short corner, then left and up the steepening groove. Continue to a ledge and belay on the right.

4. 35m - Up the twin grooves to a large terrace covered with loose rock.

This is often run together into two pitches (1/2, 3/4) rather than four. If you love slabs it's also possible to combine P2 and P3 by slabbing up as for Ephemeros, avoiding the short corner on P3.

Start: 7m left of the chopped steps in the descent gully.

The obvious crack - good intro to jamming

Left hand route on the Kid's Slab just right of the arete.

On top of elevated block, in front of the vertical crack. An excellent route for beginners.

Step across onto the wall and right to BR. Head straight up the wall (small cam and BR) to rounded top out. Double RB belay / rap station.

Another worthwhile easy climb that adds to the range of options for beginner leaders at this crag. 5 bolts to a DBB

Up the flake - bridge, layback, jamb - take your pick!

First climb on the right of the descent gully.

Josie climbs her age on her first project.

A classic climb up a steep, exposed wall and slab on good rock. An excellent intro to climbing at the Warrumbungles. Can be climbed in two pitches.

Scramble up to below the red-brown wall in middle of W Face, between prominent buttress and Abseil Gully (10 m L of Abseil Gully). Start just left of the 'V'

1. 15m To prominent ledge.

2. 35m Up close to corner for 10m and then head diagonally right to belay on Tourist Traverse. Some parties stick to the corner cracks.

3. 30m Step left to avoid small overhang. Up, superb climbing with good pro. Belay on block to avoid severe rope drag.

4. 15m Easy slab.

RBs have replaced expansion bolts used previously!

Start 5m right of the major corner/chimney feature and the obvious black slab. Climb the slab through a couple of overlaps to the anchors. A safe beginners lead.

Pleasant slab moves. 5 RB's to DBB.

Straight up the set of ledges immediately to the left of the roof, until you reach the two bolt belay. Plenty of spots for gear.

Short buttress with undercut start

One of the easiest sport climbs in the Blue Mountains. Good one for the kiddies.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth Another old trad route. Natural protection. Up the corner to ledge (ususally covered in leaves, wet sand and other crud), short corner to top

Start at parallel cracks 3 meters left of direct start.

Start 1 metre right of The Slab. Head up an easy right-veering crack, finishing at a two-bolt belay. Your pick as to which one!

Start 1m left of E. The start was previously described as "ungradeable" and the whole pitch is more like 15.

1. 8m (11) Crack to ledge with new DRBB directly above. Original route continues 5m up and right across grey slabs to R side of cave.

2. 21m (11) Corner to cave, left up to big cave. Traverse right (old BR) and up to ledge.

3. 21m (11) Left along ledge, up small black wall into gully filled with dead trees and dirt.

4. 23m (11) Up.

The obvious corner with a tree root at half height. Named after a repeat ascent by David Pickles.

Up the obvious corner.

Blast up the obvious corner past a bit of choss, loose rocks and well, some Dracophyllum plants!

Right of Lazy Lizards

Up slab left of Honk On.

To the right of the arete.

A popular beginners' climb. Start five metres left of Running Crack below a short, wide corner crack.

1. Up the corner crack and chimney to a huge ledge and tree belay.

2. Left over ledges then up the slanting corner. A tricky step right to a break, then the wide crack and corners lead easily to the top.

Classic. The obvious wide corner crack.

Rack recommendation: A single rack of cams with #4. You don't necessarily need a #5 or #6. At the start, bump the #4 cam as high as possible (deep in the crack) and then as your next pro, see if you can find a thread runner (a pocket that you can sling around).

Either step R to the lower-offs of adjacent routes, or go to tree belay at the top then walk out to the road.

Start left of small corner. Up over a small bulge and veer to the right. 2 RB to Lower Offs. (Can start on right and climb up to 2nd bolt, easier but less pro).

A good intro to jamming. The crack 10 metres left of Big Flake; many people continue with the second pitch of Marmalade.

The second route as you walk in, located on the slab used by pesky abseilers. Bolted for the beginner leader and for the short (or more accurately a six year olds height.)

Solo of course!

Start: The offwidth. Would be nice with a lower off.

Beginners delight. The right hand side of the easy angled slab.

4 RB's to DBB.

A pure old school trad classic.

Start: 6m right of MM at centre of big block below overlap.

1. Block, around overlap, up wall to ledge. Stroll left to big corner.

2. Up, just right of corner for adequate protection (including new FH next to mild steel heritage bolt and plate); middle below block for a few pieces; or right for not much. Double bolt and chain belay.

Rap or walk off right. P2 can be done by itself.

Start 2m R of Blackened Slab. Step up R on ledge then up to big ledge. Left to nose and up to shared lower-off. Set up for a practice belay in the middle off 2 rings.

Start 3m left of Little Miss Sunshine at the RB

Up the middle of the gently angled slab.

3 RB's to DBB.

"There's a place in France where the naked ladies dance, there's a hole in the wall where you put your..." Santa Claus is coming down this chimney to find out who's naughty or nice.... a modern classic or an aquired taste, there's something for everyone in Rod Boner's glory hole. Careful of loose rock at the top of the chimney, there is no where for your belayer to run if you dislodge one. The horrific glue drips in the back of the chimney are from an attempt to stabilise the chockstone at the top. Take care.

As for Climb A, but take a committing step out right into the next crack and then climb up.

Great learner lead. Pockets 5m R of Itchy. Direct line staying R of runnel past 4 FHs to shared lower-off.

The easy angled black slab. Take care of rock in upper section. 7 RB's to DBB.

Start: Left of arête, marked. Straight up past very little protection.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth The right hand corner crack. Natural protection. Popular even though it has a wide crack. The corner, step left and over last wide crack to top.

Chimney left of CPoM. Up (slung chockstone, wires, friends) to double RB lower off on CPoM.

Just right of Sasha. Up the obvious flake, then left around the bulge along the obvious line.

Middle of slab in descent gully. 3RB's to DBB.

The nice square cut corner, above the fixed rope. A great beginner trad lead - take med-large cams. Best to belay/lower off anchor on Uncle Amy on the right - otherwise top out onto loose ledge and belay off single RB and tree way back.

Popular. Start in a small recess just right of a large pillar directly below the roof pitch of 'Hermes'.

1. 32 metres - Climb the slabs and ledges to a tree, then up the crack and wall to a good ledge. Up the slab using the leftwards slanting crack to a grassy ledge and tree belay ('Hermes' second belay).

2. 18 metres - Pleasant. Start from a belay at big blocks 15 metres to the right of the tree, climb a short wall, pull through the hanging flakes and the corner above, then up a rib on the left of a gully. Tree belay.

Left arete of Bernutts block.

Up featured face right of small high cave to shared anchors

Start 10 m right of MSD, at base of short slab. Up slab to large ledge (DBB), then up ledges.

You can practice a multipitch belay on this one.

The narrow bolted slab with an eroding dirt base. Not a great lead for the grade as the bolts aren't in the best positions. On the half way ledge are two double ring bolts, clip the left one and keep motoring up via a tricky mantle to the top. There are now anchors at the top for lowering off.

Line of carrots above the "test" lower-offs

Up to 2nd bolt, move left to arete and follow to lower-offs. A direct finish following the bolts is harder than the grade 11 or 12.

Up the left crack to the apex, continue up the crack then step left into a wide groove.

Up corner to step L and up second vague corner.

Up the right crack (the occasional summer residence of Bill Begg's pet tiger snake) to join 'Smooth Dancer'.

A sting in the tail. Start 5m left of Dihedral Corner at the crack in the base of the blunt, blocky arete. Up over the blocks and ledges, moving right at the top to finish.

Start under orange flake, Up slab to flake and up to anchors under roof

The clean square cut corner groove 5m left of 'Thanks for the Mammaries'.

Reputedly tough for the grade. Either layback, jam or face climb - whatever floats your boat.

Has been mistaken for the descent gully!!!

Start: Corner crack at the 'Blackboard' righthand end.

Up the insanely knobby rib 2m left of Salad Days

Start marked. Easy corner past pillar and up L side of wall.

Up face just left of crack to shared anchors

On the left side of the front of the boulder facing the main crag.

Mantle, then up. No pro.

Crack 1m left of WR.

Up crack in recess, very pleasant over the bulge, then chimney. Triple BB belay (shared with WtT).

Easy and enjoyable. The corner crack left of Gherkin. 5m up the slab to the base of the corner, climb the well-protected corner, then easily leftwards to the top.

Start marked (MF). Crack up to small overhang, step left onto slab, up to wide ledge then exit via chimney (BC's gully). Ledge can be used for top belay if done in two pitches.

First route on the beginners slab. Easy clipping ledges to learn the art of leading. Anchors above the last big ledge to allow for cleaning practice.

Start: 2 Pitches.Starts on ground level. Crack to ledge. Crack.

Left side of the gully coming down.

Start 1 metre left of first bolt and up, nice grey rock up high

Juggy start to slabby finish.

[New 2012 July] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route]

Rap down the Lower offs , start on the ground and up the at times crimpy face.

A nice easy trad corner on the right side of the Binary Cave. Marked CCVS. There are now rap anchors added at the top of the first pitch. Be careful of some loose rock at the top.

Start: 0.5m left of GT, Seam (wires)and thread

Corner crack left of ZT.

Bouldery start then easy.

Start marked

The first climb at Mt.Boyce.

Start: 6m right of BS.

1. 27m (12) Corner to lip, left and up to second lip.

2. 27m (12) Slightly left through bulge to top.

Up the easy crack, from the bottom to 1st ledge. Tree belay. Traverse left to the crack left of the arete climb (down and going , 2nd pitch).

Start on boulder 3m R of Belly Bulge, step on to lip of roof and up slab.