Routen in Lugarno

Hard off the deck on old school chipped pockets to an easier finish

Stays dry! Easiest to walk in from top, opposite corner of Lugarno Parade and Fir Pl, walk 40m south the cliffedge, and down diagonal dirty gully, then left facing downhill to cave. This route crosses 2 of the old aid lines. Start off ledge and interestingly establish yourself above the bulge to a rising traverse and single bolt anchor at the lip of the roof. Back drop a couple of bolts to clean.

Start left of G. (Rebolted DEC 2019)

Start below the right hand arete of the main wall. "A prominent nose, a bit thin on top.".

2 stainless carrots and 1 rusty one on way up. Can rap off sling around tree to the right of flat boulder on top.

Short offwidth in between Giles and Kim's moon project. Start above bush. Pretty good, no cheater holds. Too wide for hand stacks. Can bump a #6 cam the whole way up. Rap off bolts either side. Tom Bes FA

Offwidth in the middle of the main wall. Hand/fist for days with some ok feet thrown in. Top out to the left of overhanging block. Sling around tree back and to right for rapping off. Placed 09/2021. Tom Bes

Start: Left of R. Up tending right (4 BRs).